Right, we've had this on the blocks for a while, so time to publish it, now enthusiasts are starting to look at these cars more and more. Fantastic kit, I've driven a few, and the thing to remember with these cars is how well they'll be viewed in years to come as the Golf GTI which almost reinvented itself. A couple of warm predecessors, this one stands out an absolute mile. It's sharp, civilised, and pays homage to the 1976 Golf GTI. A modern day successor. How long before folks start stripping them out seriously, who knows? At the moment, far too good a car for that, with the average car still over 10k, but leggier ones now below. Thanks to Crispy for his help with this guide, and don't hesitate to add your experiences of ownership to this thread. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The fifth generation Golf GTI is one of the best ever made. With prices of well used cars now below 8,000, enthusiast Mk5 ownership is sure to start becoming increasingly widespread, so here's your guide to the car we feel is going to become increasingly prevalent in Club GTI over the next few years. Universally accepted as a great car, one that clearly trumped the standard Mk3 and Mk4 GTI models by some margin, there are few of its generation which offer a more complete qualities. Agile handling, independent rear suspension and serene progress is what's on offer. Introduced in 2003, with 197bhp & 207 lb/ft from its TFSI engine, the 16-valve engine and fine chassis makes for rapid, sure-footed progress on the road, and (dare we suggest), on the track. Six gears and the two-pedal DSG automatic/semi-automatic option means there's plenty to choose from, but also a few pitfalls to avoid. Depending on budget, mid-2005 onwards cars are a safer bet, due to improved component quality and this also skirts around a recall made on early 2004 cars. There's the usual 3 and 5 door options, leather interiors or the traditional tartan check interiors (harking back to the Mk1 GTI), the two road wheel sizes mentioned, climate control, multi-function wheels, heated seats and plenty of other options (Highline + Midline, trip computer tailoring, 'Coming-home' headlights) to make definitive prices all down to striking the right deal What to look out for when commencing your search: Engine Cambelts are supposed to last 120,000 miles / 4 years Cambelt tensioners are supposed to last 60,000 miles, but can often deteriorate inside that interval and require replacing < Crispy to confirm > When they're on the downslope, it makes the engine rattly/tappety-sounding. Water pumps - at cam belt replacement recommended. Early cars were somewhat jerky at slow-speeds due to ECU mapping, so its worth checking to see if factory recall has been carried out incorpating ECU updates & fuel pressure valve, that smooth this out, have been done. Edition 30 cars have 230PS (227bhp), benefitting from what is essentially the Audi S3 engine. This car has different cams, amongst a number of upgrades. Gearbox Manual gearboxes are the safer choice. DSG semi automatic gearboxes are a fantastic piece of kit, if that's what you want, easing town driving exactly as an automatic does. Technically quicker to 60, it anticipates which gear is required having it selected ready for the next gear change using a Dual Shaft arangment, but they still change gear when they want to (ultimately). Variety of modes normal, sports (where it hold the gears until way up the rev range), semi manual with the selector for selecting gearing + or -. Afurther option gives a multifunction steering wheel with same +/- controls on the wheel behind the 10/2 o'clock locations. DSGs need an oil and filter change every 40,000 miles, and avoid one that's jerky away from a standstill. It may be an expensive fix, a lot of the earlier pre-2007 required valve body to remedy. Manual clutches are good for 30,000 miles, but like any clutch, it depends on how it's driven, minefield! Chassis Steering racks: rumours of early 2004 cars had a recall, in which case check a new steering rack has been fitted. If not, clunking on left turns mean you'll soon need one. Issue with some noisy shown up while in warranty. Wheels: 2 choices, 17 or 18 inch, with tyre prices to match. The standard 17-inch BBS Monza alloys are the ones to go for if you value ride comfort, as the 18s pick up more lumps n bumps. Watch out for kerbing, and particularly corrosion on the etched, lacquered 18s, known as 'white worm'. Edition 30 cars sit 19mm lower than a normal GTI, and have lower stiffer springs, and different Pescara 18in alloys, colour-coded lower bumper sections, Edition 30 badging and a golf ball gear knob (a nod to the Mk1 GTi). Rust When this guide was originally written, it said "rust is not something youll have to worry about, but check panel fit and finish to make sure the cars not been smashed up in an accident, and carry out a history check." Since then, it has become clear these cars are starting to rust. Front wheel arches (there was a dealer warranty), rear wheel arches, rear chassis box areas, and also front-rear roof seams on both edges. Make sure you give any car a thorough rake over. Interior Early 2004 cars have more issues with interior quality. Switches and dashboard rattles were a trait, remedied when VW shook up its suppliers. Passenger seat occupancy sensors sometimes fail & consequently people disconnect them. The passenger airbag won't work if this is done. The door seals on three-door models can leak as they become detached. Make sure the front carpets aren't damp. Climate control can sometimes be problematic, with the dual zone function (if fitted) not operating on one side. Check by setting one side hot and the other side cold, plugging into computer and C/O basic settings - or possible sensor issue. Satnav is easy to use and includes a six-disc changer, but was a 1.6k option. Service history Best to avoid cars serviced on VW's LongLife variable system: GTIs get driven, so choose one serviced every year/10,000 miles. If you settle for a L/L car do a fresh service with a flushing oil, and then another withing 5K. Once acquired, don't feel you be tied by main dealer servicing if you can find a specialist equally capable of the job. As always, warranty and resale as its part to play in the decision. Other Rear lights and water ingress is not uncommon, and causes failures. Keep a look out for condensation, and check all rear lights are working including the high level brake light. Performance upgrades There are no shortage of performance upgrades and outfits ready to help get more out of these cars. From KW chassis kits, front camber kits, to chipping, induction kits, high pressure fuel pumps, cam upgrades, exhausts, suspension and big turbo kits. Whatever your wish, a vast market exists for bolt ons and far more. VW Racing (UK) themselves offer tuning facilities from their experience of racing these cars in the Volkswagen Cup, including limited slip diffs and huge brake kits. If you're going to seriously tune a car, the Edition 30 is a considered starting point, as it offers more power potential due to the turbo and cams it has as standard - at a price. Summary Avoid 2004 cars if possible Watch out for noisy valvegear Manual gearboxes are a safer bet Get one which has had 10k/1 year servicing Autocar original road test: Download here. Clarkson's verdict: "Fabulous. Like the original then: all things to all men. Save the World. Get one of these". Guide prices given at 2010: 2004: 100k+ miles, < 8k 2005: 70k miles, 9k 2006: 60k mile, 11k 2007: 50k mile Edition 30, 15k
There was a 'buying used' article in Autocar again in last week's issue. Not a huge amount of technical advice apart from generic checks such as servicing and timing belts. Mk5s are down to 6.5k now, the Mk6 doing wonders to depress the values!
Other known issues: - Rear wheels bearings fail. Easy to replace complete assembley but at over 70 each. - Radiators known to fail/leak. - Oil cooler housings known to start leaking coolant. - EGR valves common place failure. - Lift pumps known to become blocked with crud and require replacement. - FSI high pressure fuel pump cam lobe and associated tappet know to wear out prematurly. (V. Expensive failure!) Some of these occured on my 2.0 GT FSI but all are common on the GTi models too. Gurds
Aye, especially on some modified cars ..... Good timing as I`ve recently been contemplating these mmmmmmmm... Excellent work guys
Poor oil pressure to the top end siezing the cams/snapping the cam chain slide/tilt slide function stop working as the locking section dis lodges/doesn't drop in right place front wheel bearings as in all mk5's just a couple more to add to the fails list There still nice motors, and still classed as reliable
Down to < 5k for a 2006 with full service history if mileage is not an issue ! Any updates for the `faults list` ?
I am now in this zone and fixing a few issues with mine, overall awesome car , but far more expensive to run that a mk2 valver !! which is where i came from . Brilliant Ring car , very happy with mine for that its brilliant , perhaps not quite as sharp in steering ( as in direction change ), but wins in every other aspect - ABS pump can fail , very expensive if you get a dealer to do it But its actually easy` ish job and just needs a few hours and VCDS when you bleed the system - Steering racks , my car is on the 3rd rack in 41k( bit lame my mk2 had 1 in 144k ) - Boost leaks which is a common problem on the cars now they have some age in them few places it occurs ( i have a friend who has had this issue ) - Bonnet catches seize , a right pain to get the old one out , needs drilling out Mine on track has suffered a few problems , but this is just from driving at the max on tracks with lots more torque and clipping corners and kerbs - Gearbox problems - Bent front wheel - Bent drive shaft , suspected Overall they are not quite as well made as you perhaps expect them to be perhaps. But once driving it you soon forget about that
I just had to.change the throttle body On mine. This is becoming a common problem. Front subframe clonking, fixed with washers bought in a kit Rust On front arches at 12o'clock, which can be done through warranty.
Many thanks I too have been down the `valver` route twice and for they are hard to beat I have a crazy notion of putting a NA 16v in a Mk5 ... decidedly misguided perhaps lol
Think it would be good to mention the bypass thermostat. If the car takes more than 3 miles to warm up the be aware of an additional thermostat (2 if you have DSG). 23 from VW and it's relatively easy to change, makes a big difference to the warm up time.
Am in the buying zone for one of these, great thread for a heads-up as we start looking, thanks gents
Have a good listen for gearbox bearings and make sure you have a full vag com scan done on all units. wings rust also check round inside of tailgate lip and rear arches and sills , clutches are dear to replace so make sure its good. - FSI high pressure fuel pump cam lobe and associated tappet know to wear out prematurly. (V. Expensive failure!) as seen above, see all the time HPFP's lose pressure and need replaced ..only shows up when logged.
Had a look at a couple today, both manual 5dr's. One was pricey and had been on longlife servicing which is off-putting for an enthusiast but the motor was soooo smooth. The bonnet wouldn't open which was odd. The other one was generally Ok but had water in a lens, a badly damaged driver's seat bolster and the service history up to its MOT was missing, i.e the first stamp in the book was at 37k miles. Tappety motor which is Ok. As a dinosaur happy to crawl over the MK1 to 4 gen cars, it was soon apparent that these are fantastic cars, an amazing all-rounder. Keep looking Thanks for the info
Bonnet mechs do fail , my friends did and they had to drill it out from the outside , not a nice job Mine has gone sticky , would not open for a few attempts the metal part on the bonnet itself had seized up Grease up and no probs now
That's a right downer Tris. What will it involve to repair and what sort of expense do you think you're looking at? I've now bought a MK5 2.0 FSI to use as a main daily vehicle. It's a very nice example which I want to try to look after as best as I can.
I bought and changed mine at the last service (92k) and mine was hardly scored but changed anyway. Both my rear calipers have just gone though ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
Hello. I'm new here and to the whole golf seen, i want to buy an MK5 gti but i have few question on which year is that best to buy and is it true that MK5 GTI s manufactured from 2008-05 till 2009 are the once to go for because the have a better & newer engine ( TSI ) ? and what are the major problems i can have with an MK5 ?
Hi there and welcome to the forum. Usually the later cars on a production run have lots of revisions over the early stuff. MK5 cars run the EA113 2.0 16v TFSI engine. Later cars, such as the MK6 got the 2.0 16v TSI EA888 engine. Quite a few members have MK5 GTIs, including the chairman.
