turbo 2l 8v

im new to this forum and need sum info on turboing a 2l 8v... the block is from an audi 80 gt coupe and the head is off an 1800 8v gti, i wud just like to no if there are any links to a how to, etc etc any help wud be much appreciated, thanks

 

Try this site http://www.engsoc.org/~ethor/index.shtml

This guy is doing much the same thing. Looks like it is fairly simple and cheap to do as most parts can be sourced from scrapyards.

 

That site is rubbish. TD turbos are not meant for use on petrol engines, and won't last. It'll also give you bugger all boost, totally the wrong turbo for the engine. Best off doing it right with a proper manifold and turbo.

 

Don't think the dude with this car ever had it running ....we ain't heard nothing from this project yet .Your best bet mate is to do it properly, believe mate i don't it the cheap way and it don't pay at all. If anything PM i will put you straight .

 

i have information on supplys of pretty much all you need to turbo an 8v

 

tell us then. i would like to turbo the 2l 2e and 8v PB Head!
supercharger would be nice but about $3500 from BBM + import tax probably!.

 

I would like to know too!!!![:^(]

 

when i get on my work computer on monday i will post links and contacts to companys that make everything needed, its not all from one compnay, iv had to do a bit of reaserch on this. its remarkably simple. Running megasquirt and a 2 metal head gaskets 7psi can be used without any problems, maybe upto 10 on a well looked after motor.

Turbo used is either a t25 (rover 220 coupe turbo) or a t3.

il get back to ya i promise

 

There is a company called ballistic power on ebay, they make very good quaility 8v exhaust manifolds for turbos (t3 i think). 287 ish, they also supply turbos brand new but sourcing from a scrapyard is fine aslong as the turbo is proffesionaly checked for damage, wear etc. B.P also do fine control waste gates, good to keep the turbo at a safe 5-7psi.

obviously, the bottom end muct be in good nick, along with the head, P&P isnt essentail but can be done, big valves wont give a huge gain compared to an n/a engine, compression tests are a must and general common sense helps! if in doubt check it all!

New belts and gaskets etc

powerflow can make a suitable downpipe fairly cheaply. 100 or so

megasquirt takes care of managment

g60 injectors are fine for this setup, even the 2e ones are ok on 5psi

The stock fuel pump setup is said to be ok, but for peice of mind an inline booster pump can be fitted, they can cost as much as 200 depending on the flow rate needed, but to be honest the stock pump setup is more than adiquate, just make sure the in-tank lift pump is ok because this is the one the suffers the most under pressure.

2 metal gaskets are needed

the water to oil cooler needs replacing with 2 sandwhich plates, one for an air to air oil cooler, and the other for the turbo oil feed. braided pipes can be made at alot of places or bought new off the net.

If you choose to use a water cooled turbo thats fairly simple to plumb in but id recomend a basic oil only turbo.

a high flow oil filter is recomended

boost piping can be made out of silicone pipe or metal pipe, whatever is easyest

the fuel reg will need to be replaced for one that can act on boost aswell as vacuum (standard one doesnt), deamon tweaks do these.

what intercooler you use (and you DO need one!), depends on space, but a merc sprinter or a new shape transit tdi lower mount one seems ideal.

dumpvalve, whether a recirc or a dump to air one is a good idea but not essentail

good oil is a must (synthtec etc)

the cooling system and rad must be A1 condition, i recomend 2 fans, one that runs on the thermo switch, and another one that is controlled by a dash switch (for added peace of mind)

water wetter (yes it does exist) works extremley well with a good anti freeze to keep temps low

Installing a boost gauge isnt an area you can skip, its essential, a air fuel ratio meter, oil pressure and head temp gauges/sensors are not essentail but are a good idea to keep an eye on things


what psi you run is a bit of a grey area, but what i know is, to be safe, on a good condition engine, 7psi is fine and the engine shouldnt be stressed too much that it effects the life of the engine, 10 psi can be set as an absolute max on a boost controller say, but this is purely for quick bursts and shouldnt be a pre set max.

if more psi is wanted, id suggest low comp cast pistions, the block can take the pressure but the standard 2e pistons, no matter how thick the de-comp plate(s) are, will fail dramaticaly on full load.


On the mapping side of things, im not 100% sure, toyatec is officaily "the man" to talk to on that, but im sure its not overly complicated. a base map to get the car driveable shouldnt be too hard but a rolling road session or gettin sum1 in the no to finish off the map isnt a bad idea (and drive slowly to them!)


As far as bhp gains are concerned, id expect no less than a 30bhp gain (ball park absolute minimum figure), but id say a more healthy 65bhp gain isnt impossible with carefull mapping.

In summary, if you always keep in mind youl never have a supercar slayer, you will do well. If you are after 300bhp for less than a grand expenditure on the conversion, this isnt for you, like said in so many threads, try a 16vt or a 20vt, but if you looking for a possible 250bhp max without doing internal mods to the block, then this if for you.


I am doing this conversion after xmas, at the moment im preparing a 2.0e block to go in my mk2 in n/a form with new gaskets and head for now to drive around in, but come new year the fun will begin.

hope someone finds this a bit useful

 

just to add to that, that wasnt ment to be a full on guide, or a price guide, just an idea as to whats involved. If you have a spare 2.0e bottom end with a P&P 1.8 head on it in good nick, and somwhere to do it, this conversion should be nice and easy relitavly speaking, because you can work on the engine while still using the car its going into to drive about in.

Any thoughs, constructive critism or corrections are more than welcome, i no a fair bit in this field but im not an expert so any input would be great!

Aron

 

actualy, one thing i have considerd is by how much to lower the compression ratio in terms off mm.

Am i right in thinking 2mm is ok for a lowish boost application ie multi layer gasket-metal plate-multi layer gasket?

any ideas guys>?

 

Thought you've done all your investigation?

 

theres probebly loads im missing, was just putting my thoughts down on paper really

 

Just one thing ,what car is this engine going in?????

 

well to be honest im not sure, the car it was going to go in is now for sale due to work comitments (mk2 golf gti 8v), but im carrying on with turboing the 2e in the shed as a sort of side project, when its done il probebly sell it or by a mk1 or mk2 to fit it in for a laugh.

 

one final thing i have recently found out to my annoyance, you will need to fit a venier pulley if changing the comp ration by 2 or more mm, becuase the timing will be out due to the increased distance between head and block

 

I see what your getting at , but you would not need to use a venier.You will just dropping the comp by just 2mm, Timing will remain the same. All you are going to concentrating on is retarding your ignition timing to suit your new engine character TURBO.

 

SO i have a 2.0 8v MKIV.

how much would it cost me to Turbo the enginer? ALL IN!!!

 

Not worth it.
Buy a nicer 1.8T and move forward from there.

 

oh, lol im still thinkin about it though