Converting wheel bolts to studs and nuts

Want to convert the mk2 to studs and nuts instead of wheel bolts, what's the best studs and nuts to use, where from etc??

I once ordered some from Rally Design, but the plain part of the stud was smaller diameter than the thread, so the stud couldn't be tightened up into the hub using double nut method or whatever, they suggested I should just "loctite 'em in mate".... Sent them back..

 

I think Bill still does them

 

The only place I know of that does the proper ones is Techno2, but they're a fortune compared to the usual DT stuff.



I'm near certain they don't make them, so they're coming from somewhere..............

I went round and round Autosport this year and found... nothing.

 

Trackstore

 

Sorry if this is a totally bone question, but what are the benefits of converting to studs and nuts?

 

http://www.trackstore.co.uk/shop%20frame.html

No - these are the same ones Gary will have ordered from DT. The part nos give it away.

Everywhere is awash with these studs, and no one seems to sell the pukka ones you see in a race paddock.

 

Track day hassle factor, especially if you ever run spacers. You might think "why bother" but after a while it grates on you.

 

As Chris says, it's a lot easier to swap wheels with nuts and studs then fiddling around with wheel bolts. Esp with freezing cold hands at 0730 in Donington paddock on a winter Trackzone day
Edited by: GVK

 

Good, that's what i thought it was, not a total idiot after all.

 

There's nowt wrong with Grayston stuff, which is the cheap studs, nuts etc. OK they don't look as nice as the bespoke stuff, but then again it's substantially cheaper. Most failures occur through bad installation or use. Not having enough threads in the nut is a classic. How many people have run standard wheel bolts on alloys and only had 3 or 4 turns of thread holding them on? I've used the Grayston stuff on Escorts, Manta's and Pug's with no problems ever. I've also sold quite a few sets to people with rally cars and had no problems.

 

cheapy egay jobs

 

The Grayston/DT/whoever supplied stud converters do not have a proper raised centre section, so they do not give a convincing double nut up against the hub.

 

http://www.bildon.com/catalog/DetailsList.cfm?ID=S1L58&Nav=1 0

These are the type of thing I want, the plain section of the stud is a larger diameter than the thread, so when you tighten them into the hub, they'll be tight.



Edited by: GVK

 

They're Grayston studs - you can tell. They're bright silver, no raised centre.

 

Nice - these are like I have been looking for for some time, never found
any in UK. I have run the Grayston ones for 3 yrs (supplied by Bill) and
have to say they are fine - never had any issues with the rears (very little
heat generation on rear) and only had one front come loose - heavy duty
studlock used rather than threadlock - I would say they would be fine if
removed once a year, hub threads cleaned out with a starter tap, and re-
locktite. The problem is that big heat cycles from front brakes eventually
makes the studlock give up.

I have recently converted back to bolts on front though as with bolts, its
possible to remove the front disk without taking the caliper off - very
handy for servicing and excellent design from wilwood

Cheers

Rob

 

Thanks Rob, I just didn't like the idea of the studs not having a definite 'stop' for want of a better word. Knowing my luck with buying bits from the States, the feckers will no doubt cane me for import duty


Edited by: GVK

 

The alternative is to get some 10.8 or better bolts or socket caps, pull the
hub and insert them from the rear of the hub - there should be just
enough clearance - CHEAP......

 

I use the cheapo Rally Design ones, have had them for about a year with no probs (so far). I just used loctite and then spread the back of the stud with a cold chisel to make sure. I do always use a torque wrench to tighten up the wheel nuts thou'.

Well worth doing though, so much less hassle than trying to line up spacers with the hubs, whilst holding the wheel and trying to thread the bolt in.

 

I've got spacers on the rear, just dab a bit of silicone on the back of the spacer, once it goes off it'll stay there the next time you remove the wheel.

 

I use the Techno2 studs and alloy nuts. Mega quality but very expensive and a pain to fit.