MK1 Racer (ALL BROKEN PHOTOBUCKET PICS FIXED) - Painted and out of the bodyshop....

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by 16valver, Feb 27, 2007.

  1. 16valver Forum Member

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    Thanks :thumbup:
     
  2. 16valver Forum Member

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    Its been some time since I updated the thread, partly because I have not had the time to do write ups, but also because I wanted to keep the changes under wraps before the car re-appeared on track. The recent issues with Photobucket also did not do anything to help my enthusiasm for doing anything online either(!), but seeing as the forum can now support the photo hosting itself, I will do all of the recent upgrades from the past few years, and after that I might look at fixing old pics when I get some time.


    Before its debut for the August Superlap Scotland event this year, the last time that it was properly running was in 2013 when I did around 6 races in the Scottish Motor Racing Club (SMRC), and although the car did show some good pace, it was also plagued with reliability issues that affected almost every event it was entered. The problems were mostly related to driveshaft failure, outer CV joint failure, and also some electrical gremlins which made running the car very difficult throughout each weekend. In addition to this was the fact that the car did not feel very well screwed together as the geometry seemed to get worse throughout each race weekend, particularly with the toe settings which were never the same when measured back at the garage as they were set at before the race.
    In addition to this was a pretty major issue with the lack of traction. Although this was not really a surprise with approx. 400HP at the flywheel, it was still much worse than it should have been, as there was wheelspin up to and including 5th gear, and that was even in dry conditions.


    The best lap time that the car managed at Knockhill was a 57.3 sec lap, and although that is still a pretty good time even for M3s, Evos and Imprezas never mind an old MK1 Golf, it was still miles away from where I wanted to be, as the SMRC class A cars run around 53 sec laps (some even quicker). However, with the lap times and the races that it did manage to finish, I thought that a few 5th & 6th place finishes were ok results considering the technical issues that I had been experiencing with the car.

    It would have been too easy for it to have just been passed off as being down to silly power in a FWD car, or that it was an old car vs much newer cars, or even being down to the driver, but I knew that it could be done and just needed some additional changes to make it work. Ok, so an old Golf is hardly the best base to start from when trying to build a competitive race car, but thats part of the fun right?!


    Here it is in its previous guise during when doing SMRC in 2013. I don't have all my pic's to hand to add during actual races, but seeing as all PB links are dead, thought I would add some of how it was before the work started again...


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    The highlight of the year was a particularly wet qualifying session in June 2013 where I was surprised to find out that I had qualified the mk1 on pole position in front of Supercharged E46 M3s, heavily modified kit cars, Cosworths and even a Noble M400 race car [:D]


    pic 1 (2).jpg


    However, most importantly was that it was a clear indicator that my dry tyres (Avon slicks) were a major problem as I had just gone round a wet Knockhill with less wheelspin than I would usually have in the dry!!! (This was on a used set of Dunlop wets from a Radical race car brilliant tyres).

    Unfortunately the high of qualifying was short lived after two DNFs, one of which was caused by a snapped CV joint coming off the line (or at least trying too!), but after replacing this and also a driveshaft that had broken just after the circlip groove, I went on to do the next event in July where I finished 2 races in 5th & 6th place.


    At this stage it was just past half way through the season and with having only finished 5 races from 8 starts, the continued reliability issues, tyre/grip problems and also taking some damage following contact with an Evo in July, that I decided to call time on the rest of the season and I just put it back in the garage and left it alone!

    From this point I had decided that to resolve the issues I needed to upgrade the CVs & driveshafts, fit some serious rubber, re-do the wiring and also make a number of additional changes either to help the quest for traction or to fix niggles that had appeared during the 2013 season. So at this point I started to plan the changes with the assistance of pal Craig Annison (Goof) and then spent a long time either researching various options or collecting the required parts. However, I struggled to find much time to work on the car between my daily work, getting married and also going back to Uni to complete a post graduate degree, so I just did the jobs as and when I could manage.

    The first thing that I did was to look at tyres, and after looking into various options I decided that I was going to try and fit the widest 15 tyres that I could manage to fit on to the car. The previous Avon slicks had been a combination of 190mm and 205mm section tyres and were obviously too narrow for the power of the car. However, I had also made a bad choice on compound as I went with a medium hard (190s) and hard (205s). My logic at the time was that with wheelspin the front tyres would surely get heat and so they could run the harder compound (205s), and then would go with slightly softer tyres on the rear as they would be more difficult to get heat into them

    Well I was wrong with that! What I actually found was that wheel spin did not actually generate any proper heat into the carcass of the tyre and that the surface of the tyre quickly became torn. During testing I actually swapped the narrower rears to the front and felt an instant improvement due to the softer compound, so for future I will likely run much softer than I did previously and I therefore based plans on running with a 275/570/15 Avon slick.

    That is a very big tyre for a mk1 golf, but as it meant I could avoid having to make a switch to 4wd, I went forward with looking at how I could get them to fit. First of all I looked to the Berg Cup cars for inspiration as they obviously run large arches and tyres, but I couldnt find anything available within the UK to accommodate the 10 x 15 wide wheels that I would need, as the usual UK Berg kits really only seem to be able to run around an 8 wide wheel or 225mm tyre size. I then managed to get in contact with Egidio Pisano who has the famous red Berg Cup car and he agreed to make me a full kit including carbon fibre side skirts and the big front air dam.


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    This kit was based on Egidios car from a few years back when it ran 15 wheels (now on 17) and would give me the clearance that I would need to fit the wider wheels & tyres. At the same time as arranging the Berg kit I was also looking at wheels. I wanted to avoid the expense and difficulty sourcing wide BBS either new or 2nd hand, so I looked to the availability of wide 15 wheels. This was a bit of a challenge as modern cars have all gone much bigger with wheel size but I realised that a lot of MX-5s in the states were running 15x9s and 15x10s, so I then became aware of a wheel called Jongbloed and which also had a decent offset of +15 in the 15x10 and the correct 57.1mm centre bore and 4x100 PCD. They were a decent price and so I went ahead imported a few sets. After a load of hassle with UK customs and import tax, I finally got them cleared and set about fitting them with the Berg kit sent over by Egidio.


    Here is the car after first trial fit of all the panels...


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    I was very pleased with the fit and it was clear that the panels had been made by a proper racer, as even the wings alone saved around 4 kg's over the old ones which were already fibreglass!

    After this it was on with the serious work of the hardware updates which involved the fabrication of completely new tubular wishbones, new drop pins/ball joint extenders, modifying steering arms, suspension etc. Will cover that in the next section of write up.


    Cheers
     
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  3. vw_singh Events Team Paid Member

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    Love that you are also still banging the mk1 drum! Awesome.

    Gurds
     
  4. sports racer Forum Member

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    Great read and so good to see an old MK1 racer coming back and being competitive.
     
  5. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    I like the "no can't do attitude" to competing with this car.

    Superb read and I following for more updates!
     
  6. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    Yes thanks.

    Congratulations on the domestics and the progress with the car, hope to come see you at Knockhill next season.
     
  7. 16valver Forum Member

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    Need's to be done!! Besides, so much time & money been put into the cars now, I don't think there is any other way lol


    Thanks. I am hoping to race it 'down south' next year, so looking forward to seeing how it compares with other cars on some different track.


    Thanks. I have written most of the next update but taking a bit of time to organise the photos and remember the order that I did all of the work.


    Thanks Andrew. Yes, that would be good as no doubt will be at Knockhill with it again soon.
     
  8. 16valver Forum Member

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    In 2015 I got the Berg kit and started trial fitting all of the panels. The wings bolted on using the standard 10mm screws, for the side skirts I used riv-nuts, and for the rear arches I also used riv-nuts again. This was because I wanted to have the rear arches riveted on rather than blended into the bodywork, as this would make it much easier to change with damage.


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    This is my biggest worry on the Berg arches and a downside when used for circuit racing, as there is much more change something will be ripped off than with a narrow bodied car. The old arches had been blended in with lots of filler for a smooth look, so I buffed back the filler to expose the pop rivets hidden under the arch and then drilled them out to remove the arch. After this I gave the quarter/arch area a skim of filler and rubbed back


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    I had been mucking about with the old 8" wide ATS wheels to try and get an idea of where things would sit, but then I got the 10" x 15" ET15 wheels and I could start to get a proper idea what I needed to do for the wishbones and rear stub axles. The wheels looked pretty extreme without the kit on!


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    I thought I was going to be well on with updating this by now, but it is taking a lot longer than I expected. 1000's of photo's all to sort and icloud is driving me nuts [:x]
     
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  9. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Great update :thumbup:
     
  10. 16valver Forum Member

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    There's not a lot there unfortunately - just half way re-sizing a heap of pics from the work on the hubs/wishbones as seems all pics need to be under 2mb on forum. Hopefully can get the next bit up soon :thumbup:
     
  11. 16valver Forum Member

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    Ok, so now after re-sizing all the pics, wishbones, driveshafts and steering arms :thumbup:


    After trial fitting the Berg kit, the next big job was tackling the new upgrade to VR6 CVs. This was to stop the repeated outer CV failure that had happened when using MKI uprights and MKII GTI style outer CVs. This was also a big deal as it was not long since I had finished fabricating and assembling all the pieces for the car previously.

    This pic shows all the associated components used with the original MK1 uprights/hubs...



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    After which followed with 3 x outer CV breakages and driveshaft damage after outer circlip groove....




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    When the breakages were happening there were lots of suggestions such as engine positioning, plunge for driveshafts, manufacturing defects on CVs etc etc, and although it is possible that some of these could have contributed to the problems, after checking everything I also could not say that any of them were likely to have been the sole cause of the breakages either. In the end I decided that the old CVs were simply too small for the application.

    I then looked to the US for ideas (as they were running big power and slicks on the drag racing scene) and in particular to a driveshaft and CV upgrade kit which utilised the larger MKIII / VR6 style outer CVs, but there was an interesting note that said they were for drag use only.

    After some thinking and researching online, I realised that to fit VR6 CVs in MKI uprights, the drive flange that accepts the larger CV also needs the larger VR6 bearing, and of course this would not fit into a MKI upright without some serious machining! The penny then dropped as to why this US driveshaft upgrade was likely to be for drag use only, as the uprights were likely paper thin around the bearing location and therefore dubious when used for anything other than in a straight line. No use for circuit car then :thumbd:


    After this I then realised that I had to change from the original MKI upright not good! After some further research I found out that the MKII upright would accept the VR6 bearing and as I already knew that disc offset was not ideal with the later MKIII upright ball joint position, I dug out a set of MKII hubs that I had in storage. In any case, it made sense to use what I had and was good to be able to get going with the project straight away.

    The next decision was on the driveshafts themselves, as considering the recent breakage of the previous cabby shaft (although to be fair this was not total failure as it had snapped at the circlip groove, and possibly as a direct result of the CV joint breaking) and also the future plans for bigger tyres and increased power, I wanted to upgrade these as well. While having looked at the US websites for potential upgrades, it was clear that there were options out there, and also that you could spend a lot of money on in the process!! However, I also noticed that a lot of VR6 Turbo cars were running stock VR6 shafts and seemed to be holding up even at over 600hp while using soft drag slicks, so I thought I should look at utilising standard parts and getting hold of VR6 shafts.


    As it happened Craig had a set that he had refurbished and said that I could use for mocking up and seeing if they would fit. At this stage I had no way of knowing if they would be the correct length and where it would leave the wheel sitting within the arch, but I decided that the best plan was to get the new MKII uprights ready complete with bearings and drive flanges, so that I could bolt this to the suspension strut, remove the old wishbone and attach the VR6 shafts to see where the wheel ended up sitting within the arch


    MK3 VR6 Shafts and outer CV compared to MK1 cabby shafts with MK1 / MK2 outer CV's - you can see how much bigger the VR6 CV's are straight away :)



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    After examining the MKII uprights on the bench it was clear that this would be a fairly involved change to the car, as ditching the original MKI uprights meant a knock-on effect on just about every other attached component. These changes were as follows.


    Bottom ball joint extenders MKII uprights have a 19mm joints instead of 17mm MKI.
    This ruled out any chance of re-using the old extenders that I had custom machined for the MKI setup and meant designing, sourcing material and getting new items machined.

    Brake calliper brackets As hole spacing is different on MKII lug mounts to the MKI type, I could not re-use the old calliper brackets that had taken so long to make for the MKI uprights.

    Suspension strut to uprights (I) Again hole spacing is different on the MKII upright which meant either new shocks or modifying the existing shocks to accept the new MKII upright.

    Suspension strut to uprights (II) The MKII upright is thicker than the MKI item, and so again this meant either new shocks but this time with the possibility of modifying the MKII upright to match the existing MKI shocks.

    Wishbones The longer driveshafts would inevitably need new wishbones to be fabricated

    Steering arms As above, fabricating new steering arms would also be required to accommodate the increased track width from the VR6 shafts

    Drive flanges As far as I know, all of the drive flanges that accept VR6 type CVs are 5x100 PCD, and as my wheels were all 4x100, I had to look to convert these by welding, drilling & re-taping.


    As I did not have access to any old VR6 bearings for mock up, I wanted to do the work on the balljoint extenders first so that I could pre-heat the upright prior to welding without damaging the brand-new bearing that would have been installed. The downside was that I was pretty much committed to making it work and otherwise I would have wasted 2 x expensive bearings and lots of time and materials for the ball joint extenders. However, by this stage I was quietly confident that it should all work ok!

    For designing the new ball joint extenders I measured the difference in distance from the bottom shock mount hole and the bottom ball joint position on the MKII hub and compared this against the MKI upright, as with having previously measured the bump steer (and added shims) for the old setup, I figured that this should get me to the ideal length that the new extender should be. After measuring this I then sketched up what I was looking for and started to look for the material that I would need for the new extenders.


    New extender sketched up...



    Drop Pin Sketch.jpg



    While working on the extenders I was also looking to find the solution of the drive flanges and converting to 4x100 PCD. I remembered something Danny (old member) had said to me a while back (or at least think it was Danny) about looking for MK4 golf drive flanges from a 1.4 or 1.6, as these would have less disc retaining holes and therefore better for welding and re-drilling. I looked in the local scrappy and found a MK4 1.4 16v which was perfect, so I went back that weekend with my tools and grabbed those to use. The holes were then welded up and made ready for going to the machinist.

    At this point the machine shop then skimmed down the MKII upright to match the MKI shock, machined the new ball joint extenders and also re-drilled the drive flanges for 4x100.


    When I got the extenders back and had the first trial fit, it was good but the radiused edge on the underside of the extender (added this to stop this area being a highly stressed potential cracking point) stopped it from going all the way into the upright, so to get round this I used this drill attachment (turned down to fit the chuck in my hand held drill!) to countersink the upright for the radiused bend. This fitted perfectly and so I moved forward with the welding. This is really just belt and braces approach as I also ground a notch so that it still uses the pinch bolt, but then also it wanted it welded to the upright like my previous MKI extender was. Prior to welding I pre-heated the whole assembly in the oven, and then also applied additional heat to the welded area before hitting it with the torch.

    Before painting the components I also spot welded ABS rings onto the back of the drive flanges so that I can run traction control later on and have hall effect sensors fitted into the standard location for MKII ABS sensors. At this stage it was now possible to install the new FAG bearings into the uprights, bolt it to the shock (only one bolt through bottom hole as shock would later need modifying for top bolt), fit a driveshaft and hub nut, and then bolt up the wheel.


    New bits in progress....



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    After this I could then bolt the upright to the shock, make up the driveshaft and then work out how long the wishbones needed to be. After that I then needed to find some inspiration for my second set of wishbones and try and improve on the first set, especially as I thought the first set I did were slightly 'over built'.

    These were a nice set I found that had been done for an E30 BM...



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    So then I built the new wishbones....



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    As I thought I had sort of over built the first versions, I also was interested to weigh them against the previous version but also against the OEM wishbone. Pleased that they were a little lighter :thumbup:



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    Then I built the new steering arms which obviously needed to be longer. For these I cut up 2 sets of old steering arms so I could get the extra length, then buttwelded them together before sleeving them after to make sure they were properly strong....



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    Fitted to the MK1....



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    After this is decided that I didn't like the castor turnbuckle linkage I had put into the rear wishbone arm, as the M10 rod just looked like a weak point for hitting kerbs, so I re-welded new rear bars. The lengths were carefully chosen to give ample castor and any adjustment then made by the rose jointed end.



    Rear arm.jpg



    I have found that using the MKII upright on a MKI adds a lot of negative camber just through the differences in the shape of the upper section where it bolts to the shock. I mentioned earlier that the bolt hole spacing was different where the upright meets the shock, so to get round this I decided to notch the upper slotted shock hole upwards so that the second upper bolt could be installed incidentally, this was decided straight after the quote from Intrax to modify the shocks for the correct hole spacing not cheap!!

    The MK1 shocks have the slotted upper hole for camber adjustment using eccentric bolts, but due to the extreme negative camber just from fitting the MKII upright (it has a different shape to MK1), the last thing I wanted was to apply even more. In any case, the upper bolt needed to be slotted just above the most outboard position of the slot, i.e. where you would position the bolt if you wanted to reduce negative camber just so that the wheel/tyre would clear the shock and spring. Once this had been done I could see from the position of the wheel that I would still need all of the adjustment available at the top mounts just to scrub off unwanted negative camber! Thankfully the Intrax setup has a huge range of adjustment and so this was not a problem.



    IMG_2406.jpg


    Anyway, after this I was happy with how it was sitting, but I was also pleased that by shifting the top mount completely outboard to counter the unwanted neagative camber, this should hopefully reduce any negative effect from scrub radius effect.



    top mount.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2017
  12. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hold on there til I pick my jaw up off the floor.

    Outstanding
     
  13. abf12 New Member

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    hi there i have a mk1 citi golf i want to do a ABF convertion on it wgat do i need exzactly as it is now its a 1.3 carburetor with a FFZ box
     
  14. knarfmk1 Forum Member

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    Very nice writeup and work! Just some thoughts:
    Isn't the steering arm pickup also completely different in height/length on an mk2 upright compared to the mk1 upright?
    Also, in stead of making the A-arms longer, couldn't you shorten the driveshafts? The upright would then be closer to the inner wing and would therfor help to reduce the added camber, or at least, the upper shock mounting bolt would be more in the standard slotted range of the shock. (altough this needed to be changed anyway). Or was making the a-arms longer needed anyway for the extra track width?
     
  15. Rado-Sean Paid Member Paid Member

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    Amazing work

    reading builds like this gives me inspiration to get a move on with my corrado
     
  16. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    I had to radius the hub to accept the extenders just like you.

    I was reading this and thinking 'I don't really like that long threaded section':o

    Scrolled down to see you'd thought the same and removed them [:D]

    I do like the work you've done. :thumbup:

    No front arb??
     
  17. 16valver Forum Member

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    The threaded section is something that I saw on some other wishbones and thought it would be great for castor - simple turnbuckle linkage with LH / RH thread and you could just add or remove castor after slackening the lock nuts. Although, after finishing they always bugged me as something that just didn't look right, even though they were M12 rod (Not sure if I already said M10) - reckon they would have easily folded with some kerbs :thumbd:

    Changed to sold bars about 2 months of them annoying me - now all 25.4mm x 2.64mm WT CDS tube, so should be strong.


    No front ARB, or rear bar either. I upped the spring rates again and now very happy with it. Have avoided front bar in particular in case it added understeer.




    Thanks :thumbup:

    Yes, the steering arm pickup is different also but that wasn't an issue as could build the new arms to correct length and I also re-measured for bump steer and corrected with shims/washers. Will update on that later on as I did that just before the car was run for first event.

    As you mention at the end, the arms did have to be longer for track width, so the stock VR6 shafts turned out to be ideal for what was needed. The arms were also built so that the plunge on both CV's is at exact mid point when the car is sitting flat. With regards to camber, agree that there would be less negative camber with shorter arms/shafts, but this would have meant big wheel spacers which was not something I wanted.

    Also wouldn't fancy shortening/lengthening the hollow VR6 shafts!




    Cheers guys :thumbup:




    Hi, I am not sure on the exact parts that you will need (other than an ABF engine & O2A box!!!), but there is plenty of info on the forum for that and should be easy to find to help plan the conversion. Good luck with it also.
     
    Sirguydo and knarfmk1 like this.
  18. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    What a great read can't wait for some more instalments :thumbup:

    Just what this forum is about
     
  19. rainbird New Member

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    Great work and equally enjoyable writeup. Sure I'm not alone in enjoying the details of fabrication and development!
     
  20. vw_singh Events Team Paid Member

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    Great job on the control arms. I had put together a list of bits to do mine earlier in the year but chose to revisit it later instead.

    Gurds
     

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