'90 2l 16v(ABF) mk2 (restoration page9, going megasquirt), mk5 ed30

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by beetie, Apr 7, 2007.

  1. blis Forum Member

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    Occasional flash we are having again, but coolant is topped up, so must check as above.. tks
     
  2. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Well well beetie what a build. So this is what perfectionist syndrome will get you! A near flawless mk2. Don't know how I haven't seen this earlier. You replied to my thread on RR. You've given me a lot to think as well for example I was going to powder coat everything but reconsidering now. Looking forward to see what she's like once the teething problems are rid of. Awesome job.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
     
    beetie likes this.
  3. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    As you can, or can't, see most of the thread pictures are dead thanks to the recent photobucket nonsense.

    I'll eventually get round to sorting them, definately not by paying photobucket.

    The car has had a couple of problems that needed sorting, but nothing too major.
    The 1st one was the clutch cable outer had collapsed, meaning that the bite was at the very bottom of the pedal when fully adjusted. Changed for another manual one and all is sorted.
    The other problem was an oil leak from the front block breather on the ABF. A new o ring was ordered and installed, I haven't been out in it since but it hopefully should have sorted it.

    In other car news , I will be going to curby in it for the Clubgti day on the 28th. To see the mapping man.
     
  4. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Also the new half height polished centres turned up for the BBS RS alloys. They looked much better than full height, as the proportions are much better suited[​IMG][​IMG]
     
  5. vwjaytech

    vwjaytech Forum Member

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    looking very nice beetie love the wheels m8 going to any shows soon?
     
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  6. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Once it's mapped and had a bit more of a shakedown, maybe. Although I'm not too bothered about showing it.

    Yours is coming along well. Good to see the rollover jig saving more mk2's
     
  7. vwjaytech

    vwjaytech Forum Member

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    im great full thank u with out it i wont off done it as good cant be leave that photobucket site lot most of my build ill have start it again [:x] but oh well here a photo of mine IMG_5385.jpg she a lot better now :thumbup:
     
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  8. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    After photobucket rubbish. Thought I'd post a recent picture of the car[​IMG]
     
  9. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    After seeing Eddie (toyotec) at curby, and him putting a better fully revving map on the car it's a lot better.
    There were some issues found that need to be fixed

    First one is the front engine mount bolt coming loose. It's a solid front 'duff' made mount and it's apparently quite common for the bolt to loosen. Eddie recommends a cut down headbolt, so one of those will be sourced and installed.

    The next 2 are kind of related. On mapping the car, and something I have also noticed. The car will move away slowly then with no more throttle then accelerate very quickly. I have had a whistle from the inlet/fuel rail area and Eddie found it to be the fuel rail. I have taken it off previously to check for any signs of it but everything seemed okay.
    But there is a vacuum leak.
    On moving away there's still the leak (lean), but as the revs rise, and with it manifold pressure, the leak seals and the mixture becomes richer.
    I need to seal the fuel rail with some o-rings.
    It took a bit of looking for when mapping and was a bit puzzling at first, which brings us onto the 3rd thing-an afr guage. It will keep an eye on the fuel ratio and would have helped with the mapping and diagnostics almost instantly. Eddie recommends AEM, so I bought AEM (analogue to be more in keeping to the car, it can also light up green to match the dash). I could also wire it straight to the ecu if I wanted to.


    Now I have to get it all fixed or installed.

    Thanks to Eddie for the mapping so far, and it was good to get along to curby and see so many Clubgti members/car enthusiasts. [​IMG]
     
    blis likes this.
  10. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Bad weather and having the car on axle stands means it hasn't moved since going over to curborough.

    But today I managed to get on with installing the wideband gauge.

    First I thought about dropping the downpipe, drilling and welding all underneath the car. I then realised that I was being stupid. So I did it properly.

    I disconnected the downpipe from the manifold then slid it out of the first silencer. After removing the gear linkage bracket, undoing the rear engine mounts and lifting the engine on the trolley jack, and moving the coolant bottle out of the way. The downpipe could be pulled up and out that side of the engine bay.

    I'd marked the position I needed the bung to be in, whilst the downpipe was on the car. It need to be above 10degrees and clear everything around it, such as the gear lever box.
    Now it's out I could use a step drill to get the hole put in place. It did need a bit of fettling with a Dremel.

    [​IMG]


    I got as good a fit as possible to help with welding.

    [​IMG]


    I cleaned up the surface of the downpipe, and an area on the end to attach the welders earth, dug out the welder and cranked it right up. The bung was definately softer, as you could see the heat melt it first before the downpipe.

    [​IMG]


    All welded in and neat enough. Installed the downpipe the reversal of removal. The afr sensor just cleared the gear lever box by around 3mm. The wires went above the heatshields and in through the main grommet in the bulkhead.

    Next job was to wire in the gauge. I put all the wires to the light switch, with the perminant power and switched power fused off separate 5amp fuses. Ground went to the earthing block above the fusebox.
    All was put back together for testing and the light colour of the dial was changed to green.

    [​IMG]


    I do need to get a gauge pod so that it can have a perminant home.

    As for the car, a few more jobs then mapping can continue.
     
    16valver likes this.
  11. 16valver Forum Member

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    Nice job on the exhaust boss and gauge :thumbup:


    Something I am thinking of fitting in future.
     
  12. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    After the car sitting around and me not getting it done. I thought I'd better get on with the rest of the jobs to be done.

    The main one is the air leak from the fuel rail.
    I looked everywhere for some seals but just couldn't find any for the mk3 rail.
    I did find mrinjector had some similar square profile seals. I sent off an email to them and it wasn't long before one came back. They didn't have any but they will try to find some similar.
    A few days later they came back with ones from a Ferrari of some description.
    They are taller so should seal better, but they are smaller diameter.
    I ordered 4 and hoped I could get them in the seal groves on the rail.

    Here they are against the originals
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I managed to get them stretched and into the groove. Result
    [​IMG]

    The rail and inlet got reinstalled and I started the car. It still had a massive leak!
    At this point, i was sure that the rail was not the culprit. Spraying wd40 at just the manifold made it hunt.

    So, It had to be the inlet itself.

    That then got took off[emoji16]
    [​IMG]

    I gave the mating faces a good clean
    [​IMG]

    On the cylinder head as well as the manifold.
    Left port done.
    [​IMG]

    All done
    [​IMG]

    It was good to see the beautifully ported head again
    [​IMG]

    Anyway, the manifold got reinstalled with the cleaned up gaskets and a bit of dirko sealant.
    It now works as it should, no more leaks.

    The only thing now is that without the extra air going through, the car just wouldn't idle without a bit of throttle.

    I had to move the throttle stop to get the throttle to this place when 'off throttle'.
    [​IMG]


    Once that was done all was well, the car also idled at 950rpm - 1000rpm rather than the high 1300rpm with the air leak or 0rpm post air leak fix.

    Now for more mapping
     

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