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Thread: OEM management wiring: 1.8T => Mk2 harness install FAQ

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    Default OEM management wiring: 1.8T => Mk2 harness install FAQ

    Hi guys. The idea of this thread is to document the process of modifying a standard OEM wiring loom for use in a mk2 conversion. Many people seem to be undertaking 20v conversions these days commonly using aftermarket management systems such as emerald, dta or the mbe 992 used by QPEng. Hopefully this thread will provide details on how to take the OEM management path and make it almost as easy as some of the other plug and play options.

    Firstly, i am using an AUM engine for my conversion, however i did not get the ecu and loom etc with the engine (mistake) so i have since purchased an AUQ loom and ecu. Worth mentioning here is that the engine bay loom is split into multiple parts. There are 2 main sections required for this conversion. The first is the loom with the connectors for the coils and injectors etc on, pictured below :



    The second part of the loom has the connectors for the MAF, lambda sensors etc, as well as connections to the main internal loom. Shown here :



    I have numbered the connectors on each picture and here are the corresponding connections :

    Main ecu wiring harness 1 :
    1- ecu connector
    2 - coil positive feed from loom 2
    3 - 14 pin connection to main harness
    4 - oil temp/level sender
    5 - speed sender on gearbox
    6 - coils
    7 - injectors
    8 - knock sensor 1
    9 - n205 valve (vvt solenoid)
    10 - knock sensor 2
    11 - N249 valve
    12 - oil pressure sensor
    13 - crank sensor
    14 - coolant temperature sensor
    15 - n75 valve (wastegate control)
    16 - cam position sensor
    17 - throttle
    18 - air inlet temperature sensor
    19 - manifold pressure sensor

    Main ecu wiring harness 2:
    1 - connectors to interior loom
    2 - ecu connector
    3 - N80 valve (charcoal can)
    4 - lambda sensors
    5 - secondary air injection pump
    6 - N112 valve (secondary air injection solenoid)
    7 - power steering pressure sensor
    8 - brake connector???
    9 - positive connection on battery for sai relay
    10 - starter
    11 - negative for sai relay
    12 - coil positive feed to loom 1 from coil relay
    13 - mass air flow meter
    14 - sai and coil relays

    From here i have started by working out which components would not be necessary in my mk2 and removing them from the loom if this can be done neatly. The method i have taken is to remove the unused components from loom 2 however loom 1 will remain as it left the factory. The components we are unlikely to be using are:

    N80 (charcoal can)
    N112 valve (secondary air injection solenoid)
    N249 valve
    secondary air injection pump
    SAI relay
    brake connector???
    starter connection

    There are some good guides on VWVortex and cupranet for removing most of these components and using resistors to prevent codes. However i will include what i have done later in this guide.

    Some other information i have compiled is a list of the pin outputs for the coloured connectors which connect the engine harnesses to the main loom in the original car. These are the connectors we are going to splice into the mk2 wiring to get the desired feeds for the ecu.

    T6-brown connector
    pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3
    pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth
    pin 3 - starter
    pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62
    pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay
    pin 6 - yellow/black from connection 1 87 fused 10amp fuel pump relay

    T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
    pin 1 - black to green/black from oil pressure sender
    pin 2 -black/green to black/white to speedo sender
    pin 3 - white/blue speed sender to dash
    pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214)
    pin 5 - red/purple to 10 amp fuse / injectors (183)
    pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp connection 87 (62) fuel pump relay
    pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197)
    pin 8 - black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15
    pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders
    pin 10 -
    pin 11 -black/blue to grey/black oil level (165)
    pin 12 - brown/blue to purple/white oil level to dash
    pin 13 -
    pin 14 -

    T10W -White connector
    pin 1 -
    pin 2 - orange/black to ecu T121/60 canbus high (227)
    pin 3 - orange/brown to ecu T121/58 canbus low (225)
    pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch
    pin 5 - blue/purple to brown/red to ecu T121/28 (3)
    pin 6 -
    pin 7 - white/green to ecu T121/30
    pin 8 - white/red to ecu T121/48
    pin 9 - green/purple to ecu T121/67
    pin 10 - purple/yellow to ecu T121/47

    T10 Orange
    pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229)
    pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81
    pin 3 - blue/green T121/22 to brake servo control and vacuum pump
    pin 4 -
    pin 5 -
    pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring
    pin 7 - green or green/grey to ecu T121/41 connection to air con
    pin 8 - blue/red to ecu T121/40 connection to air con
    pin 9 - green/brown ecu T121/37 to climatronic control
    pin 10 -

    T10h Blue
    pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6
    pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1
    pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2
    pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3
    pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4
    pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5
    pin 7 -
    pin 8 -
    pin 9 -
    pin 10 -blue/purple auto gearbox

    T10e Black
    pin 1 - blue/grey ecu T121/75 to cruise control
    pin 2 - red/yellow ecu T121/57 to cruise control
    pin 3 - black/white ecu T121/38 to cruise control
    pin 4 -
    pin 5 - white/yellow ecu T121/55 to cruise control brake pedal switch
    pin 6 -
    pin 7 -
    pin 8 -
    pin 9 - white ecu T121/76 to cruise control
    pin 10 -

    That is probably enough for one post, i will continue in my next post with some pictures and descriptions of the modifications i make to loom 2. I do however have a few questions that possibly some on here may know the answer to. Firstly, anyone who is using OEM management, have you kept the power steering pressure sensor? I have presumed that i can probably get rid of this and the ecu wont mind but it would be nice to know for sure. Secondly does anyone know which wire from the ecu is the K diagnostics wire or indeed which wire on the coloured plugs this would be. On the original car the K line would have come from the ecu to the clocks and then from the clocks to the OBD port.

    Cheers, James
    Last edited by 20v_jimmy; 26th July 2015 at 12:57.

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    For the PAS looking at the diagram its simply a pressure switch, so probably just bridge the wires together? Can you not just use the MK4 pump with the pressure switch in it though?

    looking at the diagrams I think the diagnostic pins are:
    58 - (low bus)
    60 - (high bus)

    whatever that means

    oh, and heres an elsawin wiring diagram printout for the ecu/clocks if it helps:
    http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g4aumauqecu.pdf
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    I too thought that the PAS is probably just a pressure switch, my guess is it speeds the idle when the pressure gets high, for example when at full lock and dry steering. It is possible to use the mk4 pump, however that would mean using seat power steering lines as the mk4 pump differs to the mk2 and mk3. (the pressure switch is mounted on the line banjo).

    On the subject of steering pumps another question you may know the answer to. I know the offset of the mk2 and mk3 pumps differ (41mm and 52mm respectively) however i am unsure of the offset of the mk4 pump (it doesnt appear to be shown on etka or etos)?! I have read other peoples build threads saying that mk2 pumps fit with the mk4 pulley, however i have also seen people say the mk3 pump fits with the mk4 pulley. Obviously they cannot both be correct. I really must go out and measure the mk4 pump sometime.

    The low and high bus are the can bus (controller area network) signals. By my understanding there should also be an OBD2 K diagnostic line going from the ecu to the clocks.

    Cheers for the link to the elsawin diagram, thats actually the pdf i used to get the pin outputs i posted in this thread however i could not find the link to the online version having saved it previously.

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    The very late MK2s iirc used MK3 offset pumps, so that could explain it? No idea what offset the MK4 pump is. Can't imagine it would be difficult to knock something up for that

    Had another look and I see pin 43 on the ECU runs to the clocks plug pin 5, and is grey/white. On MK3s grey/white from ecu pin 43 is diagnostics, so good chance this is it
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    Very informative thread, well done
    PEACE THROUGH SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER
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    Quote Originally Posted by shane d
    Very informative thread, well done
    I second that. I'm trying to decode an early AEB loom at the moment and this is good helpful stuff. Thanks!

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    Good spot on the ecu pin 43 rubjonny that does indeed look very likely .

    Piglet, unfortunately i doubt a lot of this post will be helpful with AEB wiring however i do have a selection of links which may prove usefull for any AEB swap. For the wiring side it is definitely worth checking this site:

    http://myweb.whitman.syr.edu/srotblat/swap/

    For anyone else reading this, this site also contains info on the AWP wiring harness although it is a little incomplete. The AWP and AWW engines in the US are basically our AUQ and AUM engines in the uk.

    The AEB swap is much more common stateside as they got many more of these. I also posted a number of other links and possibly useful AEB info here:

    http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=191354

    I will endeavour to update this thread tomorrow with the pictures and info about the wiring i have removed so far and also the planned plugs on the mk2 fusebox for splicing into.

    Cheers, James

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    Im also in the process of modifying the standard loom but for an AJH engine which came from a Seat Alhambra. It didnt have the standard plugs like a Mk4 Golf but I removed pretty much the full vehicle loom so ive stripped it back just to the engine loom. The only wires I have left are the 12v live/switched and fuel pump relay....plus all the sender wires going to the clocks but I want to keep the mk2 clocks so i'll get the ecu deimmobilised and splice them into the CE2.

    As i'll be using mk2 clocks I was going to cut out the charcoal/air pump etc and not worry about the fault codes but i'll watch this thread with interest to see how you handle it.

    I had originally planned to use standalone but I thought it would be foolish not to have a go before giving in, as im not seeking massive power id prefer to benefit from the OE calibration.

    Thanks for starting this thread, im sure it'll help many people.
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    just to add, if you want a MK4 diagram let me know the code and I should be able to get it!

    I have a couple of AEG diagrams to hand here also, not sure how useful these are
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    I should point out here that the imformation above pertains to ME7.X ECUs found on the AUQ and BAM. Similar on ARZ and AUM engines.

    AEB or AGU motors run on Bosch M3.8.X systems and have different pin outs.

    From the TT current flow diagram for AUQ and BAM we have.

    Pin 43, on the AUQ engine w/ME7.5 ECU, is the diagnostic K line. That goes to the instrument cluster module J218. The wire is 0.36mm and should be grey/white. It should terminate on an orange 10pin connector (T10x/1).
    CAN L (orange/brown) and H (orange/black) ,found on pins 58 and 60 terminate in a white 10 pin connector (T10a pin 3 and 2)
    You should not need a wake up line i.e. L or K2 for diagnostic connector, unless you have a main CAN controller with other modules attached.

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    Right, next installment. I have now trimmed down some parts of the wiring harness and i have also had a quick look at the wiring diagrams to see where to splice in the feeds for the harness.

    To start with i removed most of the covering from the wiring harness so that the individual wires could be removed. This seems like a daunting process but actually turns out to be fairly simple. The first wires i removed were those associated with the secondary air injection pump. The SAI pump is controlled by one of the 2 relays in the harness, the one in the brown holder.



    To remove the wiring i simply removed the pins from the plug. You need to remove the thick red wire coming from the battery, and also the thick red/white wire which goes to the SAI pump plug. This allows the plug and remaining wire to be removed.





    From here i went on to remove the wiring from the brown coloured connector (T6) to the starter. This is a medium sized red wire which is covered along its whole length in black heatshrink. The plug on the end is a single pin packard connector and the other end terminates at the brown plug. Again i removed this by removing the pin from the brown plug.



    Next i removed the un-needed wiring from the orange connector to a two pin plug, i am unsure exactly what this plug did in the original car however since it does not connect to the ecu at all we do not need it. Again these wires are covered in black heatshrink along their length and then connect to the orange harness connector. These pins can be removed.



    After this wiring was removed i made a start on removing some more wiring associated with emissions systems i will not be using. As previously stated i am removing the Secondary air injection, this is used to heat the cat and as i will not be using a cat it is not required. When removing the secondary air solenoid the ecu would normally log a fault code saying that the solenoid is missing or open circuit. To avoid this code we will be fitting resistors to fool the ecu into thinking the solenoid is still there. See this guide on VWVortex :

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3111538

    or this guide on Cupranet:

    http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/show...highlight=n112

    Because i am going to be doing this and i will not be needing the connectors, i decided to remove as much wiring associated with these systems as possible and then hide the resistors in the loom. To do this i first removed the wiring from the SAI solenoid valve, i cut this up near to where all the blue/yellow feeds for the sensors join together (this will become clear when you strip the covering off the harness).



    Finally i did the same with the wiring to the charcoal canister. Again this can be cut back to near where the sensor feeds all join.



    And that is the wiring removal complete for the moment.

    Most of the feeds for the ecu, along with some sends to the dash, come from these coloured connectors, along with the 14 pin plug on the other wiring harness.



    I have listed the pin designations of these connectors further back in the thread, generally these were the same as my harness although there were a few minor differences.

    I have now drawn up a list of which of these wires i think is required and where in my CE2 fusebox i might connect them. I havnt checked these connections yet they are purely from a quick loom at wiring diagrams. If anyone notices anything they think is incorrect please let me know.

    T6-brown connector
    pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
    pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
    pin 3 -starter N
    pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
    pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay Y (g1 pin 8)
    pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T14a/6) Y (g2 pin 4)

    T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
    pin 1 - black to green/black from oil pressure sender N (use original mk2 pressure wiring)
    pin 2 -black/green to black/white to speedo sender N
    pin 3 - white/blue speed sender to dash N
    pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214) Y/M (G2 pin 3, requires resistor to read correctly)
    pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) Y ( Z1)
    pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) Y (g2 pin 4)
    pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197) Y Earth to chassis or battery -VE (Edit by mat-mk3)
    pin 8 - black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 Y (g1 pin 10,needs fuse)
    pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders Y (G1 pin 1 or 6)
    pin 10 -
    pin 11 -black/blue to grey/black oil level (165) N
    pin 12 - brown/blue to purple/white oil level to dash N
    pin 13 -
    pin 14 -

    T10W -White connector
    pin 1 -
    pin 2 - orange/black to ecu T121/60 canbus high (227) N
    pin 3 - orange/brown to ecu T121/58 canbus low (225) N
    pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car)
    pin 5 - blue/purple to brown/red to ecu T121/28 (3) N
    pin 6 -
    pin 7 - white/green to ecu T121/30 N
    pin 8 - white/red to ecu T121/48 N
    pin 9 - green/purple to ecu T121/67 N
    pin 10 - purple/yellow to ecu T121/47 N

    T10 Orange
    pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) Y (probably diagnostics K)
    pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 N
    pin 3 - blue/green T121/22 to brake servo control and vacuum pump N
    pin 4 -
    pin 5 -
    pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)
    pin 7 - green or green/grey to ecu T121/41 connection to air con N
    pin 8 - blue/red to ecu T121/40 connection to air con N
    pin 9 - green/brown ecu T121/37 to climatronic control N
    pin 10 -

    T10h Blue
    pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y
    pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y
    pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
    pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y
    pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y
    pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y
    pin 7 -
    pin 8 -
    pin 9 -
    pin 10 -blue/purple auto gearbox N

    Connections marked with a Y will be used, those with an N will not. In this list i have added the wiring from the 1.8t coolant temperature sender to the dash. This will not work correctly with the mk2 dash although i believe it will with a resistor added. The other option here would be to keep the original digi mk2 sender and wiring and use a hose adaptor like this one:


    (image borrowed from mush's build thread on ed38)

    I think thats about it for the moment, i will update when i have more. Thanks for watching guys and i hope this is of some use to someone.

    Cheers, James
    Last edited by 20v_jimmy; 26th July 2015 at 12:54.

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    that coolant adaptor elbow looks like a handy piece, any idea what VAG model its from?
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    Thanks for that confirmation on the K diagnostic line toyo.

    And yes i should probably have pointed out earlier in this thread that this information is related to the me7.x range of ecu's found on later 1.8ts. It is also probably worth mentioning that some of the me7.x ecu's used narrow band EGO sensors as opposed to the wideband sensors used with this ecu. I believe for example some passats, a4s and ibiza cupras used the narrow band ecu.

    Cheers, James

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    Unsure on where the coolant flange came from altho i suspect something mk4 era. Will do some sifting on etos later. Alternatively im sure i could fire MUSH a pm over on edition 38..

    Cheers, James

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    aha, looks like its for 1.4 models:

    1J0 121 087 B - 4.71+VAT
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    Good work mate. It's a lovely job ain't it

    Try these part numbers for that elbow piece for the coolant temp...

    1J0 121 087A or N906 931 01

    The Mk2 power steering pump fits also. It bolts straight up to the 1.8t - then you just change the pulleys over. The reason you can't use the mk4 pump is as I'm sure you're aware it uses a banjo type joint due to the addition of the sensor, so won't link up to mk2 lines.

    Just looking over, I may have missed it to but I couldn't see any engine RPM signal wire, which you'll need for the cluster. Think it's a pin in the orange connector, though I could be wrong as I moved all my spare wiring into that one connector.
    For Sale: 1990 Mk2 Golf GTi 1.8T 20v - Fully Restored - Massive Specification

    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.ph...81#post2277581

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    Quote Originally Posted by rubjonny
    aha, looks like its for 1.4 models:

    1J0 121 087 B - 4.71+VAT
    nice pic

    i got that elbow from a 1.6 mk4 golf, however ive also got one on my mk4 20vt, and thats got climate control so maybe for the models with a/c or climatronic?

    Either way it works fine with a digi temp sender as pictured

    or you can leave the current wiring intact and fit a 33ohm resistor in series with the signal core (purple if i remember correctly) and that works perfect with mk2/3 clocks, ive checked this with the vagcom measuring block ouput to ensure it was correct.

    Keep it up with this thread, it should encourage others to go oem, as its a much better option! I even got someone else to make my loom but then spent ages redoing it, it was perfect but i just wanted to change things for hiding wiring etc.
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    Thanks for all the kind words and helpful advice everyone, much appreciated .

    Mush and classy, it was actually your two build threads which inspired me to go for oem management rather than standalone. I had initially planned to go with megasquirt however i decided that for a daily driver the oem management would probably be a better option. Hopefully if we can get all the information required to go this route in one place then it will encourage others too.

    Classy, good spot on the engine speed wire, i had indeed missed that off. Can only imagine how frustrating that would have been to rectify once in the car. The wiring diagrams i have are rather unclear as to which wire it might be, there is a green/red wire in pin 2 of the orange connector which goes to pin 81 on the ecu, this looks like it may be the one.

    My plan is to try and build a small circuit to convert the low level tacho output from the ecu to one which will work with the clocks. There are several methods used with megasquirt which could possibly be adapted for this purpose. This should hopefully prevent the need for buying a costly tach adaptor from msd or the like.

    For power steering pumps i plan to use the mk2 pump and not use the pressure sensor (although i have left it in the wiring just incase) however i have been informed that if you wish to retain the mk4 style pump this may be possible using seat toledo power steering lines as these use the banjo fitting.

    I really need to make a trip to the scrap yard in order to move on with this project now. My plan is to obtain the CE2 fusebox connectors from a scrap car and use these to create my harness. If anyone can see any problems with the proposed fusebox connections please let me know.

    Cheers, James

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    I'd be interested to see what you come up with converting the RPM signal wire, I was/am going to use that converter unless another - cheaper/better method is found.

    I am also slightly unsure of the exact wire for the RPM signal wire & the Vehicle speed. Problem being they go to so many different control units around the car. However they are the ONLY wires I can find that go to the ECU relatively...

    Decided to have a gander in comparison to connections you've used & I've used... They seem fairly similar! It's good for me to check as well as mine hasn't actually been wired up yet, although I've checked it a few times!

    For T6m #5 - I've used g2/4 - it's also fused from the CE2 box via 10amp fuse. I don't have a Pin 6 used on mine, can't see it on AMK wiring diagrams either so I'm not sure what it's for?

    T14a #3 - I've used U2/9
    T14a #6 - I've used M/5
    T14a #7 - Is an Earth... I'll connect this is a chassis ground point somewhere.

    For the VSS signal wire (blue/white) I think T10x (orange) #9 which will connect to - W/1 or U2/2.
    RPM signal wire (green/brown) I think also T10x (orange) #5 - connects to T28/10 of the cluster.

    Apart from those (which I'm not at all implying are wrong!) everything else is pretty much identical to the connections I've used.

    I'm going to TRY and hook up the warning light wires for EML power & electric so I've kept those in as well.
    For Sale: 1990 Mk2 Golf GTi 1.8T 20v - Fully Restored - Massive Specification

    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.ph...81#post2277581

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    Ok, ive had another quick look through the wiring and compared my connections to yours again classy. It would appear we are of similar mind which is reassuring. As you mentioned that you had no pin 6 on the brown T6 connector i checked this and found that i did not have it either (although it is there on the wiring diagram).

    T6 pin 5 is effectively the sensor positive for that harness.
    T14a pin 6 is the corresponding sensor positive in the other harness (live for n75, n205, and n249).

    When you said you used T14a pin 3 to U2/9 i presume you meant T14a pin 4, as this would be the purple wire connecting to the coolant temperature sensor. As far as i can tell what you actually want to do here is connect to G2/3. U2/9 is actually the output from the fusebox to the clocks. The signal comes from the coolant sensor, into the fusebox on G2/3 and then out of the fusebox again on U2/9 to the clocks.

    Basically G1 and G2 are the engine bay connectors for the mk2 golf so my aim is to keep as much of the new connections on these as possible.

    From looking at my wiring diagrams for the AUQ/AUM and indeed at my harness, the VSS signal (blue/white wire) comes from ecu pin 54 directly to T10 (orange) pin 6. This could be a subtle difference between the AMK and AUQ if yours is different.

    Again for the RPM signal wire there may be a subtle difference here as i do not have a pin 5 in my orange connector. Mine appears to be on T10 (orange) pin 2, this is a green red wire which is the same colour coding as used on earlier ecu's from mk3s and corrados for the speed signal. I believe this should connect to g1 pin 12, obviously in this case we need to do this via a tach adaptor of some sort.


    Revised connections

    T6-brown connector
    pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 Y (g1 pin 4, needs fuse)
    pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay earth Y (g1 pin 3)
    pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 Y (Y pin 4, needs fuse)
    pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay Y (g1 pin 10)

    T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
    pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor (214) Y/M (G2 pin 3, requires resistor to read correctly)
    pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) Y ( Z1)
    pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (fuse shared with T6/6) Y (g2 pin 4)
    pin 7 - brown earth (204) (197) Y Earth to chassis or battery -VE (Edit by mat-mk3)
    pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders Y (G1 pin 6)

    T10W -White connector
    pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car)


    10 Orange
    pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) Y ( diagnostics K diag port)
    pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 Y (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12)
    pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring Y (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)


    T10h Blue
    pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
    pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
    pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
    pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
    pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
    pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y (Throttle pedal in car)

    Hopefully that should be a bit better, turns out there was no T14a pin 8 or T6 pin 6 on my harness which has simplified things a bit. I have used the G2/4 fused switched live to power the live feeds for one harness, and the G1/10 switched live via the digifant relay to power the live feeds in the other harness.

    I am now looking at options for throttle pedals, does anyone know if all of the vag drive by wire pedals are transferrable. Could i for example use a passat throttle pedal or a seat one with my auq ecu? or are there difference resistance curves plotted? I am aware that the pedal isnt just a simple potentiometer and in fact has two resistance curves which vary in opposition to each other.

    Cheers, James
    Last edited by mat-mk3; 27th March 2012 at 10:41.

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    For the coolant temp gauge, I think I've probably connected it to U2/9 but not in the fusebox, just removed the pin and spliced it into the wire going TO the cluster same with the RPM signal wire I think, although don't think I've wired this in yet.

    Someone posted in my build thread about a floor mounted Mk5 pedal... although the post was a little vague, waiting for some more info!
    For Sale: 1990 Mk2 Golf GTi 1.8T 20v - Fully Restored - Massive Specification

    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.ph...81#post2277581

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    Hi there,

    can I bring this one back for a moment.

    I'm hoping to put a 1.8T into a Mk3, and just wanted to ask what you do with the wires in the loom that you don't use apart from ripping them out?

    What I mean is surely the ECU will be expecting a signal from some of the unused wires, eg the can bus ones, or is this where the use of resistors comes in?

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    Hi dubster.

    Most of the wiring which hasnt been mentioned is simply ignored, for example the can bus signal wires.

    Basically to avoid codes you need to add resistors to the evap can (n80), the sai solenoid (n112), and the dump valve control (n249). If you look further back in this thread i posted some links to guides on VWvortex and Cupranet. Further to this, in this guide i have opted to leave in the relay which controls the SAI pump to prevent some codes here, this could also be removed and a resister of similar value to the relays coil used to replace it.

    This will leave you in a situation where the ecu will probably throw a code relating to communication errors with the abs ecu, probably a terminal 30 voltage low, and occasionally it will probably come up with sai incorrect flow. If you do not connect the brake switch (i have opted not to in the hope to still be able to heal and toe) then you will probably get a code for this too. As far as im aware none of these will cause any problems with the running of the car.

    One thing worth mentioning is that you will either need to keep the catalyst or have the second O2 sensor written out of the code on the ecu. Some people have had luck with using an O2 sensor spacer to fool the sensor but i think this is a bit hit and miss. The second sensor is commonly written out on performance software, i believe SWICT near Bristol are able to do this and immo removal, they are who i plan to contact about my ecu.

    Hope this helps, any more questions give me a shout. Cheers, James

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    Hi James,

    thank you for the explanation. Its all pretty obvious now that I think about it.

    I just initially thought that the ECU might throw a hissy fit if it didn't get all the inputs it was expecting.

    Regarding my install, then I am hopefully getting an AGU engine so it will only have the one 02 sensor, and no SAI, n112 or n249. Well I think/hope that's the case anyway.

    I fully intend to keep the catalyst anyway as I want this install to be fully road legal and MOT proof.

    I'm not chasing big bhp numbers with this project, I just want a bit more oomph than my Mk3 2.0 8valve has at the moment. 200bhp will be more than enough.

    I'm also going to try and do this conversion such that it looks as OE as possible eg I will try and keep the evap can, and use an OE looking intercooler, I hate those Ebay things, maybe one from a Mk5 might fit.

    I haven't got my engine yet so I'm just working my way through the wiring diagrams I've got. Getting there slowly.

    I'm hoping to get a loom made up and get the ecu deimmobilised/remapped at the same time. So hopefully this will make it easier.

    Thanks for now.

    Regards from Paul.

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    if you need other any info about pins from the ecu i can help with something like the pictures from this link (http://forum.4tuning.ro/120-masina-m...ce/page-7.htmlpost no 91)

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