Polo G40 Turbo- Trackday Toy

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Yoof, Nov 8, 2010.

  1. RobT

    RobT Forum Junkie

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    test it....might be easy to make your own with a die, then you could try different materials....a fairly hard nylon should be the ticket

    edit

    http://www.nylonalloys.co.uk/shop/specifications.htm

    thy use nylon for steering rods on gokarts so i reckon its ok to hold a floor on
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017
  2. knarfmk1 Forum Member

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    Very nice job on that floor!
     
  3. Yoof Forum Member

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    Spent a little bit of time on this recently, first up was a tweak of the rose joint mounting position on the rear axle, rotated through 90' for clearance to the diffuser:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Next up was painting all the flat floor supports, and heatshrinking the nylon spacers in plce so they don't move when I attach the floor:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Repeat many times:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Once I'd done that the diffuser plates had been done, so I rivted them up and admired my handy work:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    I then took the floor off, so I could remove the spit and flip the car over:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    I pushed it outside and checked my jacking bars fitted:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Blew the dust off the interior

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Then used two farm jacks to raise it onto my stands:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Set it all level (flat floor is level with the sill)

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Re-attached the floor:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    And retired for the evening:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Cheers

    Pete
     
  4. pascal77uk Paid Member Paid Member

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    Excellent work there Pete, really nicely engineered. Do you have much adjustment on the floor for altering the rake. And any idea of weight of the total set up.

    I did a few CAD drawings for a flat floor for the MK3 last year but with all the other hassle with the car that's still a long way away. I costed doing it in carbon foam core panels and bonding everything but the cost was astronomical.

    The set up wheels look mega by the way.


    Cheers
     
  5. Yoof Forum Member

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    Cheers Mike!

    To answer your question, I can alter the rake of the whole floor two ways - firstly by adjusting the spacer heights, and secondly by adjusting front/rear ride heights (obviously!)

    The diffuser angle is slightly more involved, but very possible, I'd just make some new plates at the desired angle and rivet them in, these are the 7' ones I'm starting with:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Total weight is 14.9kg - sounds heavy, but I've removed 12kg of underseal from the floor, an optimist would say I've gained 2.9kg of downforce already...

    Might produce a few sets of setup wheels in the future, I think they'd be less than a decent geometry session at CofG!

    Cheers

    Pete
     
    vw_singh, Nige, Toyotec and 1 other person like this.
  6. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Hats off to you Sir!
     
  7. Yoof Forum Member

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    Cheers Eddie - I'll be in touch to chat MS at some point!
     
  8. dubspy Forum Member

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    this is awesome.. :thumbup:
     
  9. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Even though it's only a polo, seeing a flat floor like that makes the whole surface area look huge! Great work! :clap:
     
  10. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    MS on that? Anything can be done as you are demonstrating here. However I would thought you would have stepped to something more fancy!
     
  11. Yoof Forum Member

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    MS3-Pro, seemingly does everything I need :thumbup:
     
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  12. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    No problem. Send me a shout when you are ready.
     
  13. Yoof Forum Member

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    Not done much on this recently, aside from lots of measuring regarding suspension/chassis pickup points, I think my Vento suspension will work...

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Finally worked out a combination of OEM components to give a fairly interesting Powertrain. Turbo from a Seatsport Supercopa, Transmission from a Mk5 Golf GTi, coupled with Audi A3 Diesel stub shaft and intermediate shaft, hopefully allowing far more even length driveshafts, all coupled to an old AGU I got for a ton!

    More chassis leg doctoring required [:s]
     
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  14. Yoof Forum Member

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    The words as promised:

    I'd decided some time ago that the VAG 1.8T 20v motor was a good choice for my plan with the Polo - that said, they don't fit, at all, not in the slightest.

    However, the engines are cheap, readily available, and tuned from an armchair, so the initial effort to fit the engine, would be rewarded by ease of tuning and parts availability later.

    Turbo choice needed to be made fairly early on, the standard K03 isn't suitable - I'd spent a long time thinking (and calculating) what I wanted, at one end of the scale was a bespoke manifold and something with 3 letters from BorgWarner. The other was an off the shelf OE solution in the form of a K04-064 and adapter plate.

    Decided on this as the hybrid units see north of 400bhp on a 20v, they're a low inertia (helped by smaller diameter wheels) and the integrated manifold and turbine housing means I'll not be worried about it cracking.

    Downsides are fitting it in and thermal management.

    First job on the list after bolting stuff together was to measure everything and mark datums, centrelines etc:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    At this point I dropped it in, and worked out what needed to be cut.

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    This photo is deceptive, although the engine looks fairly well positioned, the sump would be circa 100mm into the tarmac at the ride height I want to run. Tall block engines, are unsurprisingly much taller than their small block brothers!

    Next problem was the steering rack, now I know a few VW Engineers, they have a good sense of humour, but the day it came to design a Polo steering solution, they just took the ****. It's flexible, vague, poorly mounted, and generally in the way. No consideration for future proofing either :lol:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    This will go, once I've found something that fits - a Corsa D rack isn't quite right, but close. I've got a Corsa C EPAS setup and column in the car, so next logical eBay purchase is a Corsa C rack.

    Onwards with the cutting!

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    I'm moving the front mounting points forward, and reinforcing the chassis legs along the way.

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    The diagonal bar runs through the front chassis leg now, where my subframe will pickup, the vertical bar is welded to a crush tube where the original ARB mounts to, and the subframe will pickup on too:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Diagonal bar welded to the front lower chassis leg:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    I then discovered Epytec sell uprated engine mounts for Golfs, to fit a variety of different Powertrain combinations into old Golfs. Clearly I don't own a Golf, but I've managed to make two of their engine mounts work:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Lick of weld through primer to stop it rusting:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Currently I've used stock Febi engine mounts, with Poly inserts, which are abit rubbish, but will do for a proof of concept.

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    On to the NSF was a similar process, although I've not finished the chassis leg yet.

    Engine mount is 3 bits of tube and another Epytec mount:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Installation angle is basically the same as a stock Mk4 Golf in X and Y, which wouldn't be possible quickly without one of these:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    All for now :happy:

    Pete
     
  15. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    That is mega Peter. Very refreshing to see your well thought out process of choosing and applying that powertrain to that very tight chassis.
    Enjoyed that read!
     
  16. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    Utterly brilliant. It takes a brave man (or woman) to take an angle grinder to their shell like you have. I look forward to seeing this progress!
     
  17. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Fantastic update look forward to more great progress :thumbup:
     
  18. Yoof Forum Member

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    Not too much of an update, but an update none the less!

    My intention was to use Golf uprights and hubs on the Polo - again, these don't fit, so another bespoke subframe and fabricated wishbone setup is required. Coupled with changing the steering rack, it's a full front end redesign, which has taken some thinking... and needs a fair bit more yet brickwall

    Vento Challenge Car Bilstien dampers are inverted monotubes - not surprising considering the front spring rates fitted (800lb+)

    So they'll get re-valved for some much lighter spring rates in due course

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    First job to make these work was sorting the top mounts, I have fabricated strut mounting points on the Polo anyway, previously for camber adjustment (which cocks the kpi) with a Golf hub/upright this is adjustable further down the assembly.

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Although the top mount will be adjustable, my intention is to set it for the correct track width and then leave alone. So drew up some bits to be laser cut, and ordered some bearing housings from McGill Motorsport (good price and service). These will be welded on the underside and mount stright on the damper shaft.

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Will be sent to my friend Jake for TIG welding, as I don't want to warp the bearing housing with my MIG.

    Another quick win was a front engine mount- nicked from a B5/B6 Audi A4 1.8T - needs the lower PAS bracket cutting off and then it can act as the main torque reaction mount for the Polo

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    4.50 delivered from eBay :lol:

    All for now

    Pete
     
  19. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    All I would say is...Club GTI Curborough top ten contender when complete!
    I am liking what I see Pete!
     
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  20. Yoof Forum Member

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    Time for an update, been on a few trackdays in the 600 Clio, still good fun, managed to get full value from a set of brake pads at Blyton:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Put some big 4" ducts on the front and made up some deflector plates, which seemed to help things somewhat.

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Aside from a crack in the exhaust, and a cv boot held together with gaffa tape (cheers Nige) it's been a solid motor. Managed 180miles at Donnington without anymore than fuel and bump starts :lol:

    Anyway, enough of that french filth. Onto Polo progress!

    I needed to get the powertrain mounted, just had the c-mount left to do. I used an Epytech 02M engine mount, which was cut and shut to take a 90 shore bush from superflex. Doesn't really move currently, but as the bush is a common size I can swap it out for a lower shore rating in future.

    Looks like this:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr
    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    For those not familiar with a Polo chassis (which is most of you because why the f**k would anyone modify a Polo!?) the rear brace is between the track control arm mounts, and will form part of the subframe.

    That represents 3 evenings work!

    Now the powertrain wasn't moving about anymore, I could address the steering rack. I had already decided a K04-064 was the turbo for me, just it wasn't the turbo for the steering rack, or the chassis leg, or anything else really, I hope it's worth it...

    Polo steering rack looks like this:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    The mounts to the bulkhead aren't great, meaning there's lateral movement in the rack and the linkage on the end to the steering arms adds to the vague steering feeling.

    I needed more clearance, so binned the Polo one and went through 3 or 4 different racks (Escort, Aygo, Corsa D) before I found an earlier Corsa one that would do the trick. Most are subframe mounted, and I need it bulkhead, so it's a PITA to find one with the correct width and angle of input shaft to the rack.

    This wasn't an easy thing to get right (assuming I have) so copious amounts of measuring were done:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    After measuring comes grinding:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    I then offered the steering column up, and did a massive swear:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    UJ are fairly forgiving, but I was taking the **** expecting this to work!

    After deciding not to set fire to the car, I removed the EPAS column I had previously painstaking installed with the Polo steering rack, and cut off the mounts.

    How it was:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    I turned my attention back to mounting the Corsa rack, and did it like so:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    With that mounted, I then removed the steering column mounts on the dash bar, and mocked up where it needed to be so the UJ angles werent terrible:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Trial fit of the pedal box to ensure I had clearance:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Added two more tubes, triangulating it back to the dash bar:
    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    I then needed to remake the connecting shaft between the column and rack, as I was now using all GM parts, this was based on a stock Corsa one, just cut down. Theyre crimped splines as standard, something which I cant replicate, so I pinned it using a 6mm roll pin, and then welded around the shaft and around the pin for good measure (the spline is still fully engaged too)

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Happier with that than my previous cut n shut, so every cloud n all that.

    Cabin looks something like this now:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Still got to mount the gear shift tower, and cut the handbrake down, along with splitting the corsa column to accept these:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Should still be able to keep the Corsa stalks, which makes indicators and wash/wipe much more intuitive and easier, flicking toggle switches was my least preferred route for standard controls!

    Rack gives me the space I need engine side of the bulkhead, and theres enough room for some heatshielding betwwen the turbine housing and it:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Ive also been fitting a new radiator to support the extra thermal loads this engine will have, a Mk4 Golf aluminium items seemed a good place to start, 42mm core and is literally the largest rad I can fit in!

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Lots of parts got cut for it to fit, including the headlight surrounds:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Ill be getting rid of the stock shroud, I cant fit a stock alternator with it, and the average speed will hopefully be high enough to warrant not having one, just need to ensure the rad is ducted properly.

    It fits behind the bumper and grille, so just need to package an intercooler & oil cooler, and Im done for the cooling pack stuff!

    [​IMG]Untitled by Peter Strange, on Flickr

    Cheers

    Pete
     

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