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Thread: Mk2 abf conversion

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    Default Mk2 abf conversion

    Alright? need a hand.
    I currently have a mk3 golf gti 2.0L 16v (been in an accident, but complete) and also have a mk2 golf gti 16v (which has a 1.8t fitted at the mo) but engine is shot. Between the two cars would I have all parts required to make a mk2 golf abf? Also where is the best guide for this conversion?

    Cheers

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    Is that not just block and head swap?

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    What do you need to know specifically?
    Would it not be more time effective to source another 1.8t as the hard work has been done? They're not my cup of tea at the mo' but just a thought.

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    Quote Originally Posted by neo badness View Post
    What do you need to know specifically?
    Would it not be more time effective to source another 1.8t as the hard work has been done? They're not my cup of tea at the mo' but just a thought.
    The main thing is would I have all the parts needed between the two cars to do the conversion? Also how difficult would it be to swap the power steering from the mk3 to the mk2? Cheers

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    If it were me I would sell the mk3 ABF bits to pay for the 1.8t parts. Since the wiring, intercooler and turbo piping is already done, it would just be a simple engine swap as oposed to swaping the engine, wiring, exhaust and everything else that might need to be done
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    The way I see it is if I can work on multimillion dollar aircraft I should be able to work on my mk2 gti
    Quote Originally Posted by sambo View Post
    It twill fit, i have big hammer and ain't afraid to use it!
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    Quote Originally Posted by airforcebiker02 View Post
    If it were me I would sell the mk3 ABF bits to pay for the 1.8t parts. Since the wiring, intercooler and turbo piping is already done, it would just be a simple engine swap as oposed to swaping the engine, wiring, exhaust and everything else that might need to be done
    Problem is I live in guernsey so it means either sailing over and picking one up or paying a fortune to get it couriered over. I know the abf engine is reliable and has enough performance as the mrs will be driving it once done. So will I have enough parts? Or is there something I may be missing? Cheers

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    If you have the whole mk3 then you should have everything you need. You can find all the info you need to do the swap here
    8v Appreciation society
    The way I see it is if I can work on multimillion dollar aircraft I should be able to work on my mk2 gti
    Quote Originally Posted by sambo View Post
    It twill fit, i have big hammer and ain't afraid to use it!
    Formerly 'airforcebiker02'

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    Am I correct in thinking the powersteering setup from the mk3 will fit the mk2 of I change the track rod ends? Also how difficult is the rear beam to swap from mk3 to mk2? Cheers

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    I'm not sure about the power steering but the rear beam is a fairly easy swap...with help from a friend as the are a little heavy
    8v Appreciation society
    The way I see it is if I can work on multimillion dollar aircraft I should be able to work on my mk2 gti
    Quote Originally Posted by sambo View Post
    It twill fit, i have big hammer and ain't afraid to use it!
    Formerly 'airforcebiker02'

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    Quote Originally Posted by domino_7 View Post
    Also how difficult is the rear beam to swap from mk3 to mk2? Cheers
    Out of interest.. WHY? you will have an issue with the brake compensator valve as I don't think its there on a Mk3, and so there is no provision to attach the opperating arm
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    Quote Originally Posted by domino_7 View Post
    Am I correct in thinking the powersteering setup from the mk3 will fit the mk2 of I change the track rod ends? Also how difficult is the rear beam to swap from mk3 to mk2? Cheers
    From Mk3:
    PAS rack,
    PAS pipes,
    PAS UJ,
    PAS pump

    From Mk2 (PAS equipped vehicle):
    PAS boot (goes over the UJ),
    PAS bottle & pipe that goes to the pump,
    PAS track rods

    & PAS fluid to suit the Mk3 system

    If there's a new way, I'll be the first in line. But it better work this time

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben S View Post
    From Mk3:
    PAS rack,
    PAS pipes,
    PAS UJ,
    PAS pump

    From Mk2 (PAS equipped vehicle):
    PAS boot (goes over the UJ),
    PAS bottle & pipe that goes to the pump,
    PAS track rods

    & PAS fluid to suit the Mk3 system
    Thanks for that :-) .

    Any one know a way around the brake compensator valve? If not can I use the standard wheels and hubs on the front? And just change the steering rack?

    Cheers

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    leave your Mk2 rear beam, front hubs, and all 4 wheels as is.
    If you want the Mk3 rear brakes, then swap them over to the Mk2, otherwise, the original equipment front the Mk2 16V should be fine

    As for the guide that was mentioned earlier, it is head & block swap for first part then on later posts / pages is digifant followed by megasquirt

    If there's a new way, I'll be the first in line. But it better work this time

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben S View Post
    leave your Mk2 rear beam, front hubs, and all 4 wheels as is.
    If you want the Mk3 rear brakes, then swap them over to the Mk2, otherwise, the original equipment front the Mk2 16V should be fine

    As for the guide that was mentioned earlier, it is head & block swap for first part then on later posts / pages is digifant followed by megasquirt
    Sounds good. Any mods worth doing while the conversion is happening? Would the mk2 speedo be easier to use or swap for mk3?

    Sorry bout all the questions. Normally I just jump straight in but will have to be a quick conversion as she needs the car.

    Cheers

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    Also, what do I do about the immobilizer on the mk3 setup? Cheers

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    depends on what year Mk3 you have

    If there's a new way, I'll be the first in line. But it better work this time

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben S View Post
    depends on what year Mk3 you have
    1997 :-)

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    Does the mk3 exhaust manifold fit? Cheers

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    Imobiliser is in the toyotec guide. There is a box within the dash that goes to obd port. You need this and also the transponder parts from the key and the black ring around the ignition. As for manifold, this can be used in a mk2, no problem

    If there's a new way, I'll be the first in line. But it better work this time

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    mostly you have what you need, apart from the obvious service parts. you will need a SEAT ABF/TDI orMK2 SPI/diesel airbox, or just fit a cone filter.

    the manifold and downpipe fits, but you need a cat bypass to fit to it. rest of the system it depends what exhaust was used when the 1.8t went in. id assume they kept the 16v system on there and just made u pa pipe to go between 1.8t downpipe and mk2 front silencer. you could also bash out the insides of the mk3 cat, this would do the same job as the cat bypass really, or a decent exhaust place might be able to sort you out.

    since it has a 1.8t engine you'll have to do the complete conversion on digi, toyotec covers this later on in his abf guide. also its worth reading thru the entire thing because there are a lot more questions and answers to be found later on in the guide.

    where is the hazard switch, dash or column? if dahs then you have a bit of wire splicing ahead of you, if on column it can almost plug straight in but its neater if you do a bit of stripping and wire swapping from a mk2 loom. ideally best to start with a unmodified mk2 engine loom to combine with the mk2 abf loom. though again this depends what was done to get the 1.8t in there

    immobiliser box has ign live and earth, plus 2 wires 1 to ecu diagnostics wire and other to jumper block. plugs different so cant mix em up. vag-com port just has live and earth to ciggy lighter wire so thats easy too
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    The hazard swith is column on both. Whoever did the 1.8t conversion bodged the wiring so think I'm going to have a fair few problems. Which engine mounts do I use? As I would like to upgrade them

    Cheers

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    ok i think best for you to source another 90spec mk2 engine loom and work with that, any mk2 will do even 1.3. you need the ignition control part of it i.e. the loom that goes from tci to coil and dizzy as you need the loom to convert abf loom to use mk2 coil.

    engine mounts/brackets depends on what subframe is in there, and also what gearbox you're going to use. do you know what subframe is in the mk2 now, also is it cable or rod shift? pics of all 3 engine mount brackets might be useful so we can see what was done when 1.8t went in
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    Quote Originally Posted by rubjonny View Post
    ok i think best for you to source another 90spec mk2 engine loom and work with that, any mk2 will do even 1.3. you need the ignition control part of it i.e. the loom that goes from tci to coil and dizzy as you need the loom to convert abf loom to use mk2 coil.

    engine mounts/brackets depends on what subframe is in there, and also what gearbox you're going to use. do you know what subframe is in the mk2 now, also is it cable or rod shift? pics of all 3 engine mount brackets might be useful so we can see what was done when 1.8t went in
    How difficult would it be to use mk3 clocks? Cheers

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    the hardest part would be to get them in the mk2 dash, wiring wise its easy all you need is a mk3 clock loom! the abf engine loom will have the speedo and revo signals in there for you already. then you need to add an ign live feed to power them from D/8 to E/2. which if you are also adding the immobiliser is easy since the E/2 wire is also the same wire that powers the immobiliser! when you are robbing the mk3 of the immob box, follow the black wire. it ends up at a green plug (E) which also has the brake light switch wires to it. you'll see another black wire from E/2, that goes to a jumper block above the fusebox, nick all of that without cutting it.

    Then to make it work in your mk2 swap the E plug over, and put ign live on that jumper block wire, done! you could do it the mk3 way if you wanted, the jumper block gets power from plug D on the mk3 fusebox. if you find that and remove it along with all the jumper blocks you can swap it over to your car and keep all the handy mk3 jumper box feeds. will need a slight mod of the old mk2 D plug wires, but if you cut out a load of the mk3 jumper box wires you can splice these onto the mk2 wires where required and plug in.

    then the final thing to do is give the mk3 dash a feed for the left and right indicators, you'll note there is a 3 pin plug haning off the mk3 clocks loom. purple wire is mfa signal from the abf ecu loom, the other 2 are indicator wires. these come off A/1 and A/2, see my fusebox faq. if you cut out a good length of the plug that is attached to the mk3 clocks from your donor it'll make your life easier
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    ive hit a problem with the conversion, i finally got around to doing it. the car runs untill i block the two nipples on top of the throttle body. on the toyotec thread it shows them blocked off. if i leave them uncovered all you hear is an air leak as it drawing throught the larger of the two nipples, block it and the car will not idle...... any ideas? cheers

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