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Thread: New 16v crank pulley

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    Default New 16v crank pulley

    Simply put where can i buy a new ACE/9A/KR 16v crank pulley (that the cam belt runs on, not the aux belt pulley) and bolt?

    I've got run out on the pulley and i think its down to the key way failing so would like to replace both, as well as fitting some dowls in the pulley.

    I've searched and haven't found anything about where to buy a new one.

    cheers

    ACE 2L 16v, ITBs, Kent 296's, 4 branch, Emerald, bias pedal box, john deere green!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jools View Post
    Simply put where can i buy a new ACE/9A/KR 16v crank pulley (that the cam belt runs on, not the aux belt pulley) and bolt?

    I've got run out on the pulley and i think its down to the key way failing so would like to replace both, as well as fitting some dowls in the pulley.

    I've searched and haven't found anything about where to buy a new one.

    cheers
    Can't you just buy a decent second hand one? As long as you use a new crank bolt and torque it up properly then there is no reason for it to move passed the key and alter your timing.

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    Removed my pulley and bolt last night, the pulley is in good cond but the crank is abit chewed.

    I sourced a new M14x1.5x39 12 point crank bolt from VW for £4.19.

    Im going to use some Loctite 660 to fill the gap and repair the damage and then Loctite 270 for the bolt.

    ACE 2L 16v, ITBs, Kent 296's, 4 branch, Emerald, bias pedal box, john deere green!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jools View Post
    Removed my pulley and bolt last night, the pulley is in good cond but the crank is abit chewed.

    I sourced a new M14x1.5x39 12 point crank bolt from VW for £4.19.

    Im going to use some Loctite 660 to fill the gap and repair the damage and then Loctite 270 for the bolt.
    Oh, if the crank dowel is bugg*red then you'll either have to replace the crank or get a second key made for it. You might be able to make another key slot. When I did mine, I just applied a bit of lock thread and torqued it up then put a breaker bar on it half a turn. Knowing the engine will be highly revved and thrashed I wanted to make sure the crank bolt didn't come loose . I jammed a big screw driver into the flywheel where startmotor is housed, so that locked up the crank and then put the breaker bar on it. I have used my impact gun before but to be sure I used a breaker bar.

    On the ford Zetec engines, they don't have dowels on the crank, the crank pully is just done up mega tight. Hence you need timing lock tools to set up the timing and lock up the crank. Pretty sh*t TBH, I did a cambelt change ona bank holiday and didn't have the tools nor was any garage open to borrow them. So I just broke off bottom cambelt cover, locked up the cams using a pair of molegrips and screw driver jammed in flywheel. Job done, no need for a new crank bolt. Who really needs a cambelt cover anyways plus the car had an engine under tray.

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    I recall a thread about whether or not to loctite a new crank bolt, or to oil it.. I very lightly oiled mine and torqued it to the correct setting and then the stretch 90 degrees from memory..
    Mk2 16v MSVR Racer No. 38
    Aka 'Herry Wright'

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    On ABF`s they are oiled, torqued and then given 90 degrees IIRC

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    whats the part number for the crank bolt?

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    What is the torque procedure and figures for the bottom pulley bolt?

    Part number is: N90367001 Thats the 16v one which is 39mm long.

    ACE 2L 16v, ITBs, Kent 296's, 4 branch, Emerald, bias pedal box, john deere green!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jools View Post
    What is the torque procedure and figures for the bottom pulley bolt?

    Part number is: N90367001 Thats the 16v one which is 39mm long.
    I think it was 90 NM plus 90 degrees on breaker bar. Have a look at the ABF repair manual listed here. Look under contents page and scroll down too torque settings.

    http://www.flapper111.pwp.blueyonder...ABF_MANUAL.zip
    Last edited by Chrisrpal; 10th August 2012 at 09:20.

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    It is 90 plus 90 (oiled)

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    Ideal, i fitted two dowls, lots of 270 loctite and torqued it up. I found a torque figure of 200nm in a haynes manual for the 16v.

    ACE 2L 16v, ITBs, Kent 296's, 4 branch, Emerald, bias pedal box, john deere green!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jools View Post
    Ideal, i fitted two dowls, lots of 270 loctite and torqued it up. I found a torque figure of 200nm in a haynes manual for the 16v.
    That deffo won't come loose!! Happy motoring

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    I didn't use the 200 NM figure from the Haynes manual but the 90 NM (66lb ft) and then the 90 degree angle.

    Seemed pretty tight. I guess the 90NM plus 90 degrees would create around 200NM. (a wild guess)

    ACE 2L 16v, ITBs, Kent 296's, 4 branch, Emerald, bias pedal box, john deere green!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jools View Post
    I didn't use the 200 NM figure from the Haynes manual but the 90 NM (66lb ft) and then the 90 degree angle.

    Seemed pretty tight. I guess the 90NM plus 90 degrees would create around 200NM. (a wild guess)
    Yes pretty much. Sounds like you're all sorted!! When I did up my crank pully, I marked the nut and pully with a white tipex pen after tightning up and alined the white markings with the timing notch on cranck pully, turned engine over by hand just to double check timing before I fired her up. Silly me tho got the ignition timing wrong until rubjonny corrected me.

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    I totally agree with the above regards that bolt not coming loose.....if it's done right

    I had this discussion on Saturday with a chap that builds BDG's to the same spec as John Reed. His opinion was it doesn't need extra doweling. Reason being it's not having much force put against it bar a cam or 2 with springs. It's not like a flywheel that drives something else with extreme forces coming into play when changing gear at high revs or if the wheels are locked. He said alot more than that, and in depth too, of which I can't nor need to remember, but from an engineering point of view was more than feasable.

    He also mention that the Ford engines use a diamond impregnated washer that grips like sh it to a blanket, but thats it. No dowels. No keyways, just a face to face friction joint, and it works.
    If the bolts are coming loose there's an underlying problem, either not tight enough, or the faces aren't flat. It' just a shame that with the key being part of the gear it can't be lapped to the crank nose.

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    Ah Reedy is down my way near plymouth. builds some fruity red tops.

    I agree it shouldn't have much rotational load, especially with the clamping force of the bolt providing friction on the front and back face of the gear itself.

    But they do come loose and the pulley relying on the small key way for load is when damage occurs, along with vibration/movement the gear has from being loose on the crank and not tightly located.

    ACE 2L 16v, ITBs, Kent 296's, 4 branch, Emerald, bias pedal box, john deere green!

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