New 16v crank pulley

Discussion in '16-valve' started by Jools, Aug 6, 2012.

  1. Jools Forum Member

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    Simply put where can i buy a new ACE/9A/KR 16v crank pulley (that the cam belt runs on, not the aux belt pulley) and bolt?

    I've got run out on the pulley and i think its down to the key way failing so would like to replace both, as well as fitting some dowls in the pulley.

    I've searched and haven't found anything about where to buy a new one.

    cheers
     
  2. Chrisrpal Events Team

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    Can't you just buy a decent second hand one? As long as you use a new crank bolt and torque it up properly then there is no reason for it to move passed the key and alter your timing.
     
  3. Jools Forum Member

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    Removed my pulley and bolt last night, the pulley is in good cond but the crank is abit chewed.

    I sourced a new M14x1.5x39 12 point crank bolt from VW for 4.19.

    Im going to use some Loctite 660 to fill the gap and repair the damage and then Loctite 270 for the bolt.
     
  4. Chrisrpal Events Team

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    Oh, if the crank dowel is bugg*red then you'll either have to replace the crank or get a second key made for it. You might be able to make another key slot. When I did mine, I just applied a bit of lock thread and torqued it up then put a breaker bar on it half a turn. Knowing the engine will be highly revved and thrashed I wanted to make sure the crank bolt didn't come loose lol. I jammed a big screw driver into the flywheel where startmotor is housed, so that locked up the crank and then put the breaker bar on it. I have used my impact gun before but to be sure I used a breaker bar.

    On the ford Zetec engines, they don't have dowels on the crank, the crank pully is just done up mega tight. Hence you need timing lock tools to set up the timing and lock up the crank. Pretty sh*t TBH, I did a cambelt change ona bank holiday and didn't have the tools nor was any garage open to borrow them. So I just broke off bottom cambelt cover, locked up the cams using a pair of molegrips and screw driver jammed in flywheel. Job done, no need for a new crank bolt. Who really needs a cambelt cover anyways plus the car had an engine under tray.
     
  5. 3hirty8ight Forum Member

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    I recall a thread about whether or not to loctite a new crank bolt, or to oil it.. I very lightly oiled mine and torqued it to the correct setting and then the stretch 90 degrees from memory..
     
  6. Hilux Forum Member

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    On ABF`s they are oiled, torqued and then given 90 degrees IIRC
     
  7. Gambit

    Gambit Paid Member Paid Member

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    whats the part number for the crank bolt?
     
  8. Jools Forum Member

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    What is the torque procedure and figures for the bottom pulley bolt?

    Part number is: N90367001 Thats the 16v one which is 39mm long.
     
  9. Chrisrpal Events Team

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    I think it was 90 NM plus 90 degrees on breaker bar. Have a look at the ABF repair manual listed here. Look under contents page and scroll down too torque settings.

    http://www.flapper111.pwp.blueyonder...ABF_MANUAL.zip
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2012
  10. Hilux Forum Member

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    It is 90 plus 90 (oiled)
     
  11. Jools Forum Member

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    Ideal, i fitted two dowls, lots of 270 loctite and torqued it up. I found a torque figure of 200nm in a haynes manual for the 16v.
     
  12. Chrisrpal Events Team

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    That deffo won't come loose!! Happy motoring [:D]
     
  13. Jools Forum Member

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    I didn't use the 200 NM figure from the Haynes manual but the 90 NM (66lb ft) and then the 90 degree angle.

    Seemed pretty tight. I guess the 90NM plus 90 degrees would create around 200NM. (a wild guess)
     
  14. Chrisrpal Events Team

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    Yes pretty much. Sounds like you're all sorted!! When I did up my crank pully, I marked the nut and pully with a white tipex pen after tightning up and alined the white markings with the timing notch on cranck pully, turned engine over by hand just to double check timing before I fired her up. ;) Silly me tho got the ignition timing wrong until rubjonny corrected me. lol
     
  15. Hotgolf

    Hotgolf Paid Member Paid Member

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    I totally agree with the above regards that bolt not coming loose.....if it's done right ;)

    I had this discussion on Saturday with a chap that builds BDG's to the same spec as John Reed. His opinion was it doesn't need extra doweling. Reason being it's not having much force put against it bar a cam or 2 with springs. It's not like a flywheel that drives something else with extreme forces coming into play when changing gear at high revs or if the wheels are locked. He said alot more than that, and in depth too, of which I can't nor need to remember, but from an engineering point of view was more than feasable.

    He also mention that the Ford engines use a diamond impregnated washer that grips like sh it to a blanket, but thats it. No dowels. No keyways, just a face to face friction joint, and it works.
    If the bolts are coming loose there's an underlying problem, either not tight enough, or the faces aren't flat. It' just a shame that with the key being part of the gear it can't be lapped to the crank nose.
     
  16. Jools Forum Member

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    Ah Reedy is down my way near plymouth. builds some fruity red tops.

    I agree it shouldn't have much rotational load, especially with the clamping force of the bolt providing friction on the front and back face of the gear itself.

    But they do come loose and the pulley relying on the small key way for load is when damage occurs, along with vibration/movement the gear has from being loose on the crank and not tightly located.
     

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