Here's my 2c worth about suspension. For fast road use the best setup on my old MK2 GTI was standard shocks with aftermarket sports (Spax) springs. Add a decent rear ARB, at least 22mm thick, probably 25 to 28mm for a track car for best results. A front ARB doesn't make as much difference as a rear one but is useful in getting the overall handling tuned to suit your driving style. Mine handled very well on country roads and was cheap to setup. This should get you "on the road" and won't break the bank while you work out what you ultimately want.
990kg digger ;P it is so small its scary to drive felt i was tipping over on every rock i tried to remove but it was the only option to get trough the garage door
Finally the car is in its home again new concrete floor and epoxy coating does some tricks with lighting and the urge to do something to the car again
Progress? well not so much all brake lines are in place, bleeded half the car the rears went without trouble at all. the fronts i think i will rebuild(or robb a set from the vr6.....again) welded up the clutch master bracket to the pedal box, not my best work but it holds until it breaks started up the engine again after about 6 months in hibernation, not very happy about it shoots and spits alot in the beginning. adjusting a little fuel and ASE it seems abit more happy, but pig rich in any possible way i try to tune it..... had a glimpse of genious and tried upping the base fuel pressure (not right in my head when thinking it was rich but i had to test it) bang almost spot on, starts easy (easy in all terms of a unmapped engine can be) still a little rich, but it responds to what im putting in the map AEM vs MS/Tunerstudio still mismatching alot, tuning by gauge but i really want some EGO control to run some autotuning to save some time on the rolling roads. will try to go over the grounds and power supply. no new pictures now ;P
A little update. have been working a little on the car the last few weeks. i have come so far that i have driven the car and started smoothing the map out at idle and a little autotuning in my driveway. it still needs a proper mapping but i may make it to the first VACN(VW Audi Club Norwegen) weekend meet with a driving car
update: had a bad troubble with fuel starvating pumps (1 x dead 044, 2x dead china 044) so i started bulding a new fuel system with surge tank and lift pumps. got angry on my allready hacked up floor in the trunk. so i cut it all away. plans for the winter : haldex conversion, or basically syncro now haldex later
I take it you have heating and good lighting in your garage to cope with the cold Norwegian winter days/ nights .
Heating is ok, need some more lights and a good cleanup [emoji23] Lift will be mounted in a week or so, will make working on the car a little easier [emoji106] Sent fra min G8231 via Tapatalk
Lights wise I've started using these at work pretty flush to ceiling , quite tough with regards to impacts with forklift trucks mast guards . Also a good bright light to work in . Obviously price and availability will be different in your neck of the woods .
crap. my donor car has drum brakes well well i can still do the conversion and change the wishbones later
syncro plans aborted kinda, my chassis is allready doomed from road going use again and since its nearly impossible to get hold of a vr6 syncro (rear 5x100 trailing arms)car at the moment i stand between two choices. 1. fix the rear floor, and finish some left over welding, new fuel system and suspension and stay FWD 2. kill a B5 Audi a4 1.8TQ and build a somewhat close to real Quattro Jetta. only real concern i have with this is the firewall and steering rack only thing is sure, engine wise i only missing a bigger intercooler and 2,5"+ piping.
Current state [emoji23] Only thing still atached is the brake and suspension. Sent fra min G8231 via Tapatalk
Trying to fund some further building by flipping some cars, worked out great and easy until i bought a Passat b6 4motion changing oil pump and turbo on a 4motion with DPF , EGR cooler and EGR valves everywhere on a lift with 1.15m work height proved to be quite time consuming and frustrating bought the car for around 250, cheapest i could find advertised in the same spec range is 4200, so i hope the 4motion conversion of the jetta is within range before the first VACN(vw audi club norwegen) trackdays. alternative 2. is to put the 16vT in the golf 4 4motion and just drive and find another use for the jetta, as i will never sell the jetta or the mk3 gti pictures will come
Parts harvesting is almost complete, just waiting for the the guys in the salvage yard(?) to remove a Mk3 VR6 rear subframe for me. - Engine and gearbox assembled. - Haldex Unit removed and ready for cleaning. - propshaft test mounted in car for a visual perspective as if i need to shorten/lengthen it. Next step is to get the syncro subframe and convert it to haldex. got to options here: 1. order a prefab kit and weld in. 2. make my own mounting hardware (sombody might even have some plans with dimensions?) i promise, more pictures to come now
Test fitting engine and propshaft [emoji106] VR6 rear subframe getting picked up tomorrow, then i need to decide between buying haldex kit or building my own mounts. Sent fra min G8231 via Tapatalk
Parts picked up today [emoji106] little rusty but no problem. Started trimming away the syncro mounts And mounted the mk4 inner CVs to the syncro driveshafts [emoji106] Sent fra min G8231 via Tapatalk
Well i have a update New problems apear all the time. The t3/4 is as you can see a little slow, any tips too hjelp it spool or recomendations for another one? Aaaand the best brake upgrade for Mk3 vr6? My brakes stuck on the dyno and fried pretty much everything rubber
Yay, first track weekend at Rudskogen in the Jetta last week No major trouble except a blown headgasket on the last day ( OEM 9A gasket so it was no surprise realy, but it was the only gasket i could get in time, yeah the same story on the ugly mirrors ) had a lot of fun and learned a lot about the car, so the upgrade list got some adjustments
