any one fitted a corsa b power steering setup to a mk1?

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by skeldogg, Nov 15, 2012.

  1. babbe Forum Member

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    +1 on that.

    the only ppl who say that you dont need servo has never driven a car with soft slicks a short rack and a stiff lsd.
     
  2. TonyB Paid Member Paid Member

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    +2 on Jon and babbe's comments :thumbup:

    For info the Saxo set up is ideal for a MK2 as the PAS racks are easy to find. No sacrificial engine power sapping. However on a MK1 the PAS racks are rarer (as I understand) so not really practical. I use one but my MK1 but it is quite specialist and quite a lot of work - simple on a MK2 and less work than a Corsa conversion.

    Lots of the rally guys are using the Saxo set up on MK2's now. The reason for using the Saxo one, as I understand, is that High torque/high power FWD cars tend to confuse/up set the Corsa set up and they start doing funny things on long stages.

    I know of a few high power track cars that use the Corsa set up that don't have issues so I think this might be due to the fact that track cars tend to have far less steering wheel work that a hard driven stage rally car. Maybe the problem only shows up right on the limit.
     
  3. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Got a Corsa C column from ebay. Hack it and see next. Will let you all know. Everything takes a while, due to 'committments'
    Jon
     
  4. Crispy 8V CGTI Committee - Club Secretary Admin

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    I had trouble uploading pics everytime I tried with photobucket, but here the basics are now here!
    DSC_0428.jpg

    Stripped down with the corsa body with the mk1 top bit welded on ( proffessionally!)
    I was able to keep the mk1 steering lock, and make it slightly longer instead to fitting a spacer to the wheel
    DSC_0418.jpg

    The Control Module , and be re-located
    DSC_0414.jpg
    part of corsa housing back on after being hacked - it strips down very easily
    DSC_0409.jpg

    I have the basic wiring, and set up of the steering torque sensor basic thing - required to stop it pulling one way or other - will update soon!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 4, 2017
  5. Joes Forum Member

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  6. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    ^^ good info, thanks for posting :thumbup:
     
  7. thegave Forum Member

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    E-PAS re-uses the MK2 hydraulic power steering rack but uses an electrically driven pump instead of the belt driven pump right? So EPAS would be one way of getting rid of the PAS pump so I could switch over to the MK3 serpentine system and keep my a/c?
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013
  8. Crispy 8V CGTI Committee - Club Secretary Admin

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    This is how it's wired into Corsa, but for the inline control which copies the duty cycle pulses of the coil , this is how it knows the engine is running (so not to drain the battery). The varible controller alters the input to the wheelspeed input, in the OEM fitment the slower you go the lighter the steering goes.

    The best upgrade I done after doing this was fitting a quife quick rack, it made the steering tigher and feel less in 'city' mode even on the tighest setting.

    Wire Colour Function To enable EPS Wire Size / Fuse rating
    Green Engine speed signal Tacho drive / Coil ( LOW VOLTAGE SIDE! ) 0.5mm^2 no fusing
    Black - Switched Ignition Connect to 12V. In the car loom, connect this wire to the car's switched ignition 0.5mm^2 no fusing
    Red - White stripe Multi-Timer enable input Connect to 12V 0.5mm^2 no fusing
    Brown - White stripe Diagnostics Leave disconnected 0.5mm^2 no fusing
    Blue - Red Stripe Wheel speed sensor Must be under the max assistance speed defined above. This should be connected to either a Corsa wheel speed sensor, or the electronics that will adjust your speed signal to suit. 0.5mm^2 no fusing
    Red Battery positive Make sure you have a good connection to the battery, and use a fuse on this cable as stated. Connect this as close to the battery as possible. Try not to come off of previously installed wiring 6mm^2 40A fused
    Brown Battery negative (Chassis) Make sure you have a good chassis ground. As close to the battery as possible is best. 6mm^2 no fusing
     
  9. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    Excellent info. Thanks Crispy
     
  10. seventhheaven New Member

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    The amount of power assistance is dependent on the amount of torque applied to the steering wheel and to some extent the speed at which the vehicle is travelling.
    The Epas column actually has 3 speed maps that kick in at 18 and 45mph. The speed of the vehicle is derived from the ABS input.

    The Corsa has 29 Abs pulses per wheel revolution and 165/65/14 tyres.
    If you change the size of the tyres or the number of ABS pulses per rev (e.g fit to any other than a Corsa), the ABS pulses per mile change and this results in the points at which the maps change also shifting.

    To get the same speed mapping you have to use a speedo corrector circuit to modify the pulse rate from the ABS to the right rate.
    Corsa-EPAS-Speedo-Corrector.jpg

    You will also need to use a amplifier from an Astra to get the ABS pulse levels to the correct voltage.
    corsa-input-converter.JPG

    I have put together a detailled page on everything you need to know on my blog site:
    http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/corsa-c-electric-power-steering-epas-a118.html

    I have also put on there an excel spreadheet that does all the maths part for you so you can set up your speedo corrector circuit properly.

    The multi-timer input to the box is actually delayed by roughly 10seconds before being switched to 12v. The reason for this is to allow the torque sensors within the column enough time to calibrate themselves. Tying the input to 12V will allow the unit to work, but if Vauxhall thought it was necessary to have a delay then the reason for including a timer circuit is strong.

    The engine rpm signal is used so that the unit is not operational until the engine is at least at idle rpm. It is better where possible to use a signal from a crank sensor, gearbox output or rev counter feed as they will be a different frequency to the number of sparks per revolution. The columns motor can use large amounts of current, so running it without the engine running would flatten a battery very quickly.

    You could buy a fake signal generator off the auction sites but these boxes are far from ideal and could under certain conditions be dangerous. You don't want full assistance at motorway speeds as the the car will be hard to hold in a straight line and lane changing will be rather lively.
    My advivce is to do it properly - it cheaper and tuneable.

    Also, when these columns wear, the inbuilt torque sensors can fail. This could cause a condition where a vehicle is steered against a drivers will plus the car will zig zag whilst trying to hold a straight line. Therefore, if you are buying a column unseen from an auction site, try to get some validation that the column is from a low mileage car.

    I hope that helps :)
    http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/corsa-c-electric-power-steering-epas-a118.html
     
    Rapid_Gav, Briankl and Crispy 8V like this.
  11. Crispy 8V CGTI Committee - Club Secretary Admin

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    Thanks very much for that info !

    Mine has recently started to play up, happened some time after the battery had gone flat!!
    It's is too sensitive all of the time, regardless of the variable resister position (manual adjustment of the speed sensor). I will have to get the scope out on it, get testing in the next couple of days.
     
  12. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Excellent info guys!
     
  13. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Some progress on my setup. Column is in the mk1, securely mounted. UJ at the bottom now connects to rack. Next the sparks bit
    Jon
     
  14. gamiznet New Member

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    Thank you . By me the green wire What does it mean (LOW VOLTAGE SIDE!)

    Explain more or attach a photo:idea:

    I want to be mounted on the escort mk3
     

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