new metal gasket, white smoke starts once engine warm

just replaced the HG (head also skimmed).
used a metal gasket having never done so before.
tightened bolts, 40, 60 & 180 degrees
seeing white smoke when driving.
i switch off til engine cools to about 60degrees
then start up and idle -and no smoke
temp upto 80-90 and smoke starts to be visible


your thoughts on,
metal gaskets anything i should know other than surfaces must be clean and flat?
does the head need to come off?
risk if driving it ?

 

compression test in bar
1=13.5-14
2=12.5-12.8
3=13.5-14
4=13.5-14

 

No2 is almost 10% down which isn't good. Are those dry figures? Do you have any first puff & wet figures?

You could also try the compression test at 60 & 80>90.

 

Are you losing any coolant?
If not, could it be residual coolant in the exhaust system from before the repair?

 

test was dry test, cool engine.
hmm,yeah im looking at no 2 with slight resignation.
its been sat for a few weeks while head was off getting ported.
cant see it losing any coolant.
just looking at Haynes book of lies ...
it states permissable difference of up to 3 bar between cylinders??
is this correct ?
3 bar- am i misinterpreting that ?

 

Shouldn't really be done cool. 3bar is 44psi ish surely that isn't right that's half the first puff on mine.

 

black smoke is oil and white is typically coolant, check the torque of the head bolts is correct, the difference in compression is most likely the hyd. lifters have deflated somewhat whilst standing for a few weeks and need time to pump up again. After a rebuild my lifters regularly take half an hour idling and a drive to fully settle down. Repeat the compression test after the head has an hour of running on it.

 

I had a situation once where I suspected coolant was reaching a cylinder due to white smoke. I confirmed that this was indeed the case by using a Block Tester, which immediately turned from blue to yellow to confirm gas in the coolant.

Amusingly I fixed it by re-torquing the ARP head studs.

 

Probably just what's in the exhaust system steaming off. Run it for an hour and keep an eye on it. Blue haze of smoke is oil, whites plooms is water and black is usually fuel. If it's just a small amount I imagine it's just burning it off. If your blinding the car be hind then it's coolant in the cylinder????

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torque was 40, 60 nm
did wet test today, throttle open, engine temp 90degress, outside temp mild (10degrees)
1-14
2-12.5
3-14
4-14

noticed the water level is down a bit and its clouds of white smoke (not just a wisp) when i give a bit of pedal.

head is now off, cant see anything obvious, its down the engine place in the morning for pressure test/skim.

is it hard to get a seal with a metal gasket ?

 

Ive never seen burning oil smoke thats black.
Black is over fuelling, burning oil tends to be white/grey and coolant comes out as steam but smells funky due to the anti freeze.

Clouds of it when giving it pedal would indicate a piston ring failure.
Burning oil has a distinctive smell, also burning a lot of it would leave the inside of your exhaust oily, stick your finger in the tailpipe (lol) and see if there is a film of oil.

I have done many HG's on many cars and oddly enough i hve had a couple where the piston rings fail almost instantly afterwards...
Anyone have any idea as to why?

 

You also mention its been ported. Who ported it, if they are not experienced that could have broken in to a water passage. You might not see it but as soon as any heat or vacuum (from opening a the throttle) it could pull water in.

Why did the head come off, had the head gasket failed . If it had it could have been a crack in the head not the head gasket.

If it was fine before then its something that has happened since, machining/porting/parts. It's odd for a new head gasket to fail if the mating faces are ok and its seated properly, they have quite a wide range of tolerance. You don't mention new head bolts, were they the right length? there are a few types.

The above is assuming its a head issue of course.

 

ported by the head in the shed.
he inspected and found no signs of corrosion, just very slight signs of detonation and 1 rocker helicoil reqd. he stated it was a good head.
old head was taken off-found to be blown hg.
this is a spare head that was in the shed-i got this one ported.
new bolts from gsf -same length as old ones.

the only think i can think of is the METAL GASKET.
i've swapped a few heads in my time with no dramas; this time i use a metal gasket and get issues.

took both heads to engine recon place.
results:
ported head is good
old head-with fibre gasket still stuck to it-sign of blown across cylinder.- left in for a reface (to be a spare).

IMO- metal gaskets are crap!
i am loathe to use the pressed metal type as feel theyre crap and in use due to low manufacture costs.

audi 6a/ACE block (bore 82.5mm, gasket=83.5mm)
or do i need to use the vw golf one (bore 81mm, gasket=82mm )

do i get the HG to match the head(KR) or the block(6A/ACE) ?
the block right ?

 

They can't all be carp think of this

www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?114986-24-07-14-Toyotec-s-315PS-WOLF-R-What-s-next-See-Pg10

You just need a decent one from an OEM supplier like Elring. If they're not the supplier for a particular brand the seem to be sub standard possibly bought in.

 

To be fair the shed man is good, he won't have taken that much out of the ports and certainly should know a good base head from a bad one.

Metal head gaskets are good, its not a cost thing. The best ones are metal. I always use VW ones as you get a consistent quality and I get a decent rate but Elring is the same.

I think you'll find its something else, the metal head gasket will work with most combinations with no problem.