Hmm I did always fancy the look of a quick disconnecting type light loom in the mk2 but wiring is my pet hate although I'm trying to conquer the fear. No doubt I'll have to splice and fiddle with something along the line. My luck isn't that sweet haha. I'll get a good look at the beams this weekend and if not much different just pick the cleanest Once again, thanks Rubjonny.
its not too bad really, main thing is you got to crimp H4 plugs on and put sidelight plugs on there, adding an earth tapped to the H4 brown (mk3 have headlights and sides in 1 4 pin plug) plus if you want spot lamps need to tap those into the H4 plugs same as they are factory. the indicators use the same plugs as 90spec mk2 so plug right in, though the very late runout mk3 changed to a different style. you can pop the pins out and swp them to a mk2 plug housing though. main one is if you want front fogs the wiring isnt in the slam panel harness unless the mk3 was specced with them, which was rare. the wiring form fusebox to the round plug is there though so its not too bad
Spot on! You're a never ending source of knowledge Rubjonny That does seem pretty simple to be fair. I'll have a look into the routes I'm going to take with the loom as I may try and hide a lot of the wiring. See how it looks laid out in an empty bay.
did you get the main dash loom out with the radio etc plugs on? only reason is because it has the diagnostics port loom in it, plus the immob stuff if it has one. just thought it worth double checking
Well I hope I've not missed anything out I took the power plug side of the radio but left the audio side of things in there. I took the immobiliser black box and all relevant wiring. I found the diagnostic port near the ashtray and traced the 3 or 4 wires back. 2 were single pin plugs and 1 or 2 I snipped where they tapped into a junction of other wires lol I didn't however grab the heater matrix wanted to do the sticky heater flaps fix and upgrade the matrix. Ebay I guess....
yeah you got all you need then. the 2 snipped wires on the port splice back into your ciggy lighter with the matrix its not worth the risk going 2nd hand, just buy a new one!
OK so I only get to work on this project for a few hours every Saturday but this week I've had some early finishes at work so made the most of it. Stripped all I could out of the interior and left it in a suitable condition to drive it to the other garage. The roof lining is sagging so used the pegs! Thanks.
Does anybody know if the mk3 steering column will slide straight into the mk2 column sleeve? Or if the mk3 stuff bolts up to mk2 OK?
I am pretty sure it will but not 100%, its the same at the very top and the very bottom its just the middle and length I'm not 100% on
I'll have a measure up when they're out. Trying to grab all I need now rather than have tone wait around later on. Still can't find a suitable pedal box but I have a mk3 pedalbox, a grinder and a welder haha. Just need to learn to weld now!
Some progress has happened in the last 2 months I've just not been posting anything as it's not needed. Nearly ready for welding and paint. Engine out Left me a very grotty Bay needing lots of work. Tidied that up a touch Had the dash out and doors off. Then all the wiring just after this photo. Still lots to do but i have ordered lots of bits to help me complete faster after paint. I will be mocking up the corrado pedal box with clutch mc and making a dbw bracket for the original accelerator pedal before painting the shell so I'll try and do a mini guide for the dbw as there's not much info on here on how it's previously been done.
Ok so I'm getting down to some sticky work now unwrapping the looms and throwing what's not needed. Just a quick one for whoever sees it... I'm using mk3 tdi engine loom and mk2 light loom so chopping the tdi light loom away. Do I just splice the remaining wires from a1 & a2 into the mk2 plugs? Lighting plugs... A1&A2 Or am I to do different? Also are these earths likely to be from side repeaters? What can I do with these? Wiring is a massive headache but I'm trying! Slowly it's getting easier!
all of those mk3 a1/2 wires can be binned, then use the mk2 wires instead, done. only exception is if you want to use the mk3 fan controller, if so keep the mk3 related wires for that and swap to the mk2 plugs (no need to splice, just swap pins!) also if the mk2 has no level sender in the tank and you want it swap those wires over too. note only 1 wire goes to the fusebox in a mk3 loom, the other just needs earthing somewhere (or run to the fusebox pin as per mk2)
I started to think this was the way last night but wasn't so sure. I'll trace back every wire and remove then. What about the two browns? Same, just trace back and bin them? I'm using mk3 fans and rad so think mk3 controller? And the tank & wiring is from the mk3 so I'm sure that'll be OK too.
yeah any loose browns chase back, if they are indicators then they will go to the bin as well as the wires from them to the a1/2 plugs once the lighting loom is fully binned you'll probably have a couple earths from the ecu side to sort, but it depends. for example post-96 abf loom ecu and coil are earthed to the battery -ve with all then lighting loom earths, so once seperated you have to re-earth those 2 wires. but on the vr6 the engine loom is totally separate from the lighting side even on the post-96 cars so they can be split without cutting of wires. If that makes sense
That makes perfect sense and explains why I didn't have this rigmarole with the vr6 loom! Haha. Excellent advice thanks. I'll have another tamper tonight!
So I chase the two browns back and they weren't from the side repeaters. They were headed for the ECU plug so I've wrapped them back up and left loose next to the fuse box end ready for earthing.
On to the mk2's light loom I've numbered a few things in various photos in the hope of getting confirmation so I'm not leaving unnecessary wires in there. Any input greatly appreciated Fuse box end Right side headlight end Side repeaters? Coolant level? Washer bottle? Horns? Battery/earth's but unsure without tracing where from I.E. starter or alternator Left side headlight end Radiator and fan? I'm mostly certain but would like a nudge from a brain! Thanks in advance Rich
OK! Fusebox end: 1 & 2 - dimdip resistor - bin 3 - headlight range control - ignore 4-6 fusebox plugs A1, A2 and C 7-8 main fusebox live & earth Headlight end: 1 - spot lamp 2-4 - indicator 5 - headlight range control motor 6 - headlight 7 - dimdip resistor yes side repeaters yep indeed front fogs red off the main harness is battery live, the one thats separate with plug to blue wire is the alternator. it should run from the alternator to the starter motor. I would bin that and replace it with the mk3 alt line, as its much thicker. Keep the blue wire just in case, but if you kept the mk3 engine loom blue wire the mk3 alternator loom will plug straight in and make the mk2 blue wire here redundant 1 - horn 2 - spot lamp 3 - indicator 4 - headlamp 5 - headlight range control motor I concur with plugs 1 & 2 fusebox side and 7 headlight side usually you can cut the fusebox plugs off and give a good hard tug at the engine side and they'll drag out without having to split the harness covering the resistor should run to a 2 pin plug but looks like it might have been soldered to the loom direct, if so just cut and bin. as long as the fusebox plugs above are not plugged in no problem, just make sure the cut ends are well insulated. headlight range control loom obv would need the covering removed to delete, but its fine to leave the wiring in unused same as it is on 99% of all mk2s ever made
