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Thread: '89 Golf Mk2 TDi Build Thread

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    Default '89 Golf Mk2 TDi Build Thread

    Thought I'd share some info and photos while progress happens rather than all at the end. I'm bound to need to ask some questions along the line and someone may benefit from this info so makes sense

    Stating with a few photos of both the mk2 and the doner car....

    (Hope that link works)
    The mk2 is tatty as hell so that's getting a full strip down, paint and build. The mk3 will be donating AHU engine, looms, ecu, tank, axles etc etc. No massive rush to finish this but I am eager to crack on. I'll keep updating as I go.
    First thing is to strip the mk3 and scrap the unwanted bits.

    Then it's a case of emptying the mk2 COMPLETELY for the paint shop and doing a ce1 to ce2 swap
    I nearly binned the mk2 as its seen much better days but I had a change of heart. I'll nurture it back to good health hopefully!
    Thanks, Rich.
    Last edited by DN5; 13th November 2016 at 13:35. Reason: Sorted the issue

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    Hi Rich.

    Sorted for you.

    Pictures not showing.

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    Default

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    Rot clearly visible in usual spots but can be sorted I reckon.
    Last edited by DN5; 2nd October 2017 at 23:37.

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    Default

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    And a few hours stripping out the front end and labelling up

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    Last edited by DN5; 2nd October 2017 at 23:42.

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    If anyone can throw any ideas at a quick query then I'd appreciate it...
    I drove the tdi for a couple of days before starting to break it and I noticed that the idle sat around 1100 - 1200 ish
    I read somewhere that the clocks could need calibration? The only other thing I noticed was that the Air Temp Sensor (the one on the intercooler pipe) was unplugged. Could this contribute?
    The engine is nearly out so I'll have to wait till its in the mk2 before I test but just wanted any pointers. Thanks

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    really need to get diagnostics on it to track down the issue, unplugged inlet temp certainly wont help. you may find after a full strip, clean, refurbish and rebuild all becomes well anyway as you might find an air leak, broken wire, whatevs
    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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    I think it'll have to be diagnostics, just to be certain, if I don't resolve the issue with a good overhaul.
    Thanks rubjonny.

    Engines coming out this weekend, I need to crack on!

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    Hi, Richie,

    The Tdi engines use the glow plug symbol as a malfunction indicator (it flashes after starting the engine), though it looks as if the instrument cluster might be for a petrol engine, since the tachometer is marked to 7,000 rpm. Diesels only have it going to 6,000.

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    Dougie, I think you've just cracked it!
    If I compare my tacho to one with only 6,000 rpm then the needle position would sit correctly on the 6,000 rpm set as the spacing of numbers is different. Haaaa. I'll give it a go! Cheers.

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    And how eagle eyed are you

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    I've been told a few times that I have 'eyes like a s**thouse rat'. When the engine's running again, the digital rpm readout may help; to access it, switch On and wait for the service announcement in the mileage display to stop. Then press and hold the trip reset while turning the key Off and back On. The display changes to show a '1', then some figures. You're now in an 8-entry 'menu', which is advanced by the reset button. #5 is a test of all the lcd segments, 6 is a distance counter and 7 shows rpm if the engine is started.
    Last edited by Dougie; 14th April 2016 at 18:45. Reason: realised engine can't be run at present

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    I honestly didn't know I could get a digi rpm reading on this model. Only just figured it out on the mk2 haha. Thanks for the info Dougie.

    I didn't take photos tonight but stripped out everything from the bay today so engine is ready to come out.
    I'll add photos tomorrow.
    I found this hanging down the o/s chassis leg and wondered what it is...

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    Last edited by DN5; 2nd October 2017 at 23:46.

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    dimdip resistor, i woudl bin all that off. it brings the dip beam dim with the lights, and is a common cause of loom fires in the mk2 as the wire routing goes over the lip on the chassis leg, if it shorts poof thats your headlight switch loom on fire.

    you dont need it by law or for the mot
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    Yeah, I don't want any unexpected fires happening
    I've got to go over both looms with a fine toothed comb yet so I'll make sure it goes. Really want just the bare minimum and all hidden best I can in the mk2. Thanks again

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    the other end o those wires goes to a pair of 1 pin plugs, so its easy to cut out. on the mk2 interior loom there are plugs on the stalk/headlight switch loom for the dimdip, which you can also bin off
    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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    Thanks rubjonny, no doubt I'll fire a dozen of these posts out but best to be 100% and not just rip stuff out!

    A few photos from yesterday, not great progress but progress....

    Engine tidied a little more ready for removal (most things still attached - will be removed once on the bench.

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    Exhaust Manifold split- was hard not chipping ALL my knuckles...

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    Driveshaft spline bolts were NOT shifting and I'm worried these will strip if I persist so I'll remove the engine with these still attached and take it from there.

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    Seems to be a lot of oil around the turbo so that needs investigation. Hopefully nothing too serious.
    Thanks, Rich.
    Last edited by DN5; 3rd October 2017 at 10:03.

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    Had a spare few hours today so set to the driveshaft spline bolts with some cleaner and a small screwdriver. Finally worked out all the built up crap and they all came out unscathed!

    A quick build up of the engine hoist (with worse than ikea instructions) and the engine is out
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    Last edited by DN5; 3rd October 2017 at 10:09.

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    Just a quick one...
    I'm nearly done with the tdi now but before I bin anything I may need later on I'm after a few bits of input please.

    All engine loom is out (lighting loom is to be removed)
    All steering column with stalks, ignition and wiring etc . Clocks and wiring. Immobiliser box with wiring. All pedal switches. Accelerator sensor and wiring. Tank sender wiring and tank.
    Any other wiring I'd need from under the dash?

    Rear Axle is drum brakes so wasn't going to bother but is it wider? Would my mk2 8v gti rear disk set up fit on it?

    All running gear at front is being used so would that make uneven width front to rear?

    Thank you in advance for any help

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    After a quick dig around on here (yes I were being lazy :/ ) is it a case of laying down the two rear axles, pulling the drums and stubs off the mk3 and bin.
    Pulling the disks, bearings, calipers and carriers and stubs on the mk2 and fitting to the mk3 axle? That way I get disks and a wider track? Thanks.

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    sounds like you have all the wiring you need. the lighting loom isnt required but if you modify it with mk2 ends it might be an improvement over the crusty ol;d mk2 loom

    I wouldnt bother swapping the beam unless it has an internal roll bar. as for wideness it depends on age and spec of both cars, to know for sure just get your tape measure out
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    Hmm I did
    always fancy the look of a quick disconnecting type light loom in the mk2 but wiring is my pet hate although I'm trying to conquer the fear. No doubt I'll have to splice and fiddle with something along the line. My luck isn't that sweet haha. I'll get a good look at the beams this weekend and if not much different just pick the cleanest
    Once again, thanks Rubjonny.

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    its not too bad really, main thing is you got to crimp H4 plugs on and put sidelight plugs on there, adding an earth tapped to the H4 brown (mk3 have headlights and sides in 1 4 pin plug) plus if you want spot lamps need to tap those into the H4 plugs same as they are factory.

    the indicators use the same plugs as 90spec mk2 so plug right in, though the very late runout mk3 changed to a different style. you can pop the pins out and swp them to a mk2 plug housing though.

    main one is if you want front fogs the wiring isnt in the slam panel harness unless the mk3 was specced with them, which was rare. the wiring form fusebox to the round plug is there though so its not too bad
    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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    Spot on! You're a never ending source of knowledge Rubjonny
    That does seem pretty simple to be fair. I'll have a look into the routes I'm going to take with the loom as I may try and hide a lot of the wiring. See how it looks laid out in an empty bay.

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    did you get the main dash loom out with the radio etc plugs on? only reason is because it has the diagnostics port loom in it, plus the immob stuff if it has one. just thought it worth double checking
    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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    Well I hope I've not missed anything out
    I took the power plug side of the radio but left the audio side of things in there. I took the immobiliser black box and all relevant wiring. I found the diagnostic port near the ashtray and traced the 3 or 4 wires back. 2 were single pin plugs and 1 or 2 I snipped where they tapped into a junction of other wires
    I didn't however grab the heater matrix wanted to do the sticky heater flaps fix and upgrade the matrix. Ebay I guess....

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