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Thread: '89 Golf Mk2 TDi Build Thread

  1. #176
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    After a proper look it's just the end off the old cable jammed in there. Had to drill one out, the other came out with grips
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  2. #177
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    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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  3. #178
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    I've finally got round to bolting the wheels up and had it sat on the drive looking round it. Initially impressed with the look (photos to follow) I'm a bit peed off that the drivers front wheel pokes out of the arch around 1/2 inch where as the passenger front sits flush with the arch trim. I made sure that the bottom ball joint was all the way in both sides and that the struts were as far away from the hub as possible...meaning that the wheels sit straight and not cambered in.
    Although the tracking is out, I'm not sure it'd cause such an optical illusion. All I can think is that Ive bolted the K frame on slightly to the offside. Any easy ways of shifting the k frame over without removing the engine to release some weight? Ive never had this issue so never thought of how to move it!

    Is it possible to lift the weight of the car and slacken the bolts of the sub frame and shove it over some how with a bar or a jack?

    thought things were going too well!

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    Oh and what would be the best steering column uj to use mk2 or mk3? It's mk3 running gear up front and mk3 rack.

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    you'll need the right UJ to match the rack splines, the very early mk3 are the same as mk2 then they changed size. if you have the UJ off the donor use that you need a mk2 pas uj boot though regardless. If unsure count the teeth on the rack spline including the ones which are missing (look down the bottom of the spline)

    shifting the subframe over isnt a fun job to be sure, there isnt really that much movement in it either. if you loosen one of the bolts and get underneath, you'll see how much movement to the side its possible to get plus see if its fitted over to one side or no.
    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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    I'm sure I've already got the doner cars uj on there but it just seemed like there was a fair bit of play in the wheel when grabbed at 3 and 9 o'clock and wobbled. I'll double check anyway..

    I think I'll measure the sub frame to the chassis legs and chassis rails etc to try determine if it's out. I have had the wings off and maybe just out of line but I doubt the wings are that far out.

    Cheers rubjonny

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    And if it is the subframe it only needs to move 1/4 inch to one side then it'd be right. I'll measure the tracking and wind that somewhere near perfect and go from there. The eyes can deceive when stuff like that is out.

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    you would know about it if the UJ was wrong for the rack, it would either not fit at all or there would be so much play the teeth wouldn't engage. Often the allen head bolt that holds the ignition hosing to the column tube works loose, easy check
    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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    No I mean with the steering lock engaged, go outside and grab the pass or drivers front wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and rattle it. Too much play in my opinion. Everything was tightened up on build up so I'm a little worried. Also when I moved the car up the driveway I had it running and sat in it so actually drove it but the wheel kept going extra light and jolting side to side. I'll keep going and give it a proper road test.

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    yeah thats not down to the wrong UJ being fitted, though it might be knackered of course. Get someone to work the steering while you watch inside the bay, my steerign rack nuts worked loose and the rack started moving side to side
    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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    I'll double check all the bolts on the column and get a helper to sit and watch.
    I used the doner car before stripping it and it was fine but it could have become poorly while sat in the garage for a year!

    I have the mk2 rack if I need to use it but again I don't fancy removing that now it's all built up! I'll have another look.

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    Having a go at sorting the issue with the alligent today and I'm unsure on something....
    Why is it that they say you should ONLY adjust the right side? Or drivers side on UK car?
    I have 2 adjustable tierod ends and don't see what difference it makes so long as the steering rack is central before I start and go from there?

  13. #188
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    its so garages thruout the years wont adjust random sides off and on, eventually putting the rack off centre basically. the idea is if the left side is set to a factory fixed length then the rack should stay roughly central if adjustments are only made on the left side.

    the factory settings go out the window when you start wide tracking it though I found
    Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

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  14. #189
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    Haha yeah that's definitely the case for me also! I'll get the rack as central as possible then go from there.

    I've been searching the net framtically to solve the issue with the wheel poke but don't think moving the subframe will cure it so I'll start with tracking and see how it looks. I'm confident camber is decent enough already although both will be laser aligned once i satisfy this issue.

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    Doing a million jobs at once like usual. Never got round to looking at the alignment. Instead my new emerald 3d tach converter came Click image for larger version. 

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    , has 4 wires, 12+, ground, ecu pin 2 (input to converter) and to dash tacho (output from converter).
    As pin 2 on the TDI ecu originally fed back to the clocks with its reading, is it not possible to snip the wire at G1/12 and fit input wire to ecu side of snip and output wire to fuse box side of snip?

    It saves snipping one wire near ecu and one wire near the clocks....would that work?
    Rich
    Last edited by DN5; 6th December 2017 at 17:59.

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    Yep that's exactly how I would recommend you do it. The ignition feed could be tapped to G2/4 if you like, or d plug

  17. #192
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    I thought it seemed right but have read others had done all sorts of tapping in here and there

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    The second photo is well out.
    Not the subframe im certain, so sure it must be camber & toe illusion!

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    That fitment yoooo!!

    I'm not a fan of the much 'poke' but everything else is looking good. keep it up!

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    Thanks man. I want to pull it in slightly but happy with it so far

    Still a long way off....
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  21. #196
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    Rear beam refurb
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    Nice and fresh with new lines, clips, handbrake cables, poly bushes and mk4 rear calipers

  22. #197
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    Getting out of the Christmas spirit and back into the norm today
    Routing the wiring back in towards the tailgate. All good but seem to be missing heated rear screen and number plate lights.
    I'm left with these at the rear near side light.
    I'm sure the extension I'm holding is for tailgate open/close button but what are the other 2 plugs?
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    If they are heated window and number plate lights I might have to make up some more runs. Deffo don't have them

  23. #198
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    Ok from what I can work out....

    The loom I'm holding is the tailgate switch and luggage compartment light.

    Top white connector is wiper stuff?

    Black connector is both number plate lights AND demister?

    Brown ring is earth next to tail light?

    Need to make up some runs of wire because I don't have any of the above *sigh

  24. #199
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    Managed to use some plastic water/air tube to feed through the tailgate and then tape the wires to it and pull through.
    Worked a treat

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    I wasn't 100% on the rear demister wiring but put one side to the switched live and one side to ground. We will see

    And finished off some sound deadening while back here
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    Rear lights need some new seals as they are leaking a touch so no fitting carpets yet.

    Cheers.
    Last edited by DN5; 31st December 2017 at 08:11.

  25. #200
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    on the black plug white wire is screen heater, green/grey is plate lights. on the other plug thats your wiper wires. You should also have earths for all of the above out the tailgate to a ring terminal that earths behind the boot carpet that side. on the other side its just the washer pipe and earth for the screen
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