'89 Golf Mk2 TDi Build Thread

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by DN5, Apr 11, 2016.

  1. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    That's how mine started! Originally just wanted a tidy up paint wise but ended up having the in and out painted red lol
     
  2. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    For using the mk2 dash clocks with this AHU tdi, what is used to feed the MFA vacuum?

    Does it simply come from the vac line that feeds the n75 and the brake booster?

    Rich.
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you could hook up the vac line to the vacuum pump as you say but it probably would be just as useless as not hooking it up. the vacuum you will see has nothing to do with the load on the engine but rather the output from the vacuum pump so its not going to give you a useful figure for the MPG calculation
     
  4. cupracraig

    cupracraig Paid Member Paid Member

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    great thread :)
     
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  5. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks man. Hoping this will be useful to someone somewhere lol

    Ahh ok! I'm guessing that plumbing it into the intake manifold won't help me either then with this being a boost setup :(
    Never mind I'll just leave it dormant but try and get everything else working.

    Thanks.
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah its just not gonna work well on a diesel unfortunatly. just know that the mpg is always gonna be 'lots' :lol:
     
  7. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Haha tis true!
     
  8. m1keh Forum Member

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    The TDI ecu from your Mk3 has some kind of output to the clocks to work an MFA on those... You might be able to make something work using that and a small motor modified into the Mk2 clocks if you really really wanted to. That said i'm not sure exact details how to do it, but it sounds like a fun challenge :p

    Looks like pin 9 of the ECU is the fuel economy pin.

    http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1365246&postcount=42

    More info here http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=101455
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2018
  9. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I still have the mk3 clocks if you think they'd be good to strip out for anything useful?
    I'll give the links a read later when I get a minute so thanks for that.

    I'm still up for trying to piece a converter plug together for using a more modern ecu but just want to get the car on the road for now. In the meantime, to solve the issues around the n75 software I picked up an AFN ecu from a 110 tdi.

    Was cheaper than having Darkside swap the files. The eBay guy just messed me about!
     
  10. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Slow progress as I've been away alot but...
    rsz_20180207_155236.jpg
    Now looks like
    rsz_20180323_170832.jpg

    I had to clock the cold side whilst the turbo was in situ. Wasn't a very pleasant ordeal but it's all done and torqued back up.
    2.5" Darkside downpipe all bolted up and ready to be mated with a straight through 2.5" pipe lol

    Lots of intercooler piping arrived also but I need some more bits so will bolt up all in 1 hit.

    Turbo was primed, pump plug removed and spun the engine over till oil ran from the return. Fired up sounding lovely but now need to wait on some more piping before I leave it idling for 10 mins.
     
  11. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    One thing that is bugging me...
    I made the loom up myself and I'd kept the engine and lighting loom as 2 parts. When i was refitting the fuse box I had 2 brown fuse box > battery earths. The engine starts and runs no problem but the lights do not work.
    Could I have the wrong earth plumbed into the fuse box? I'm still bewildered as to why I have 2 as I thought I'd removed one. lol
    Edit- reverse lights came on and that was it
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2018
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you'll have the original mk2 one in the headlight loom, which you need to earth to the battery as it also earths all the lights up front. the other one will be the mk3 in the engine loom, which you may or may not need to earth depending on how you wired it up, originally there may have been soem earths from the engien side to it, if still there then earth that to the battery as well. fusebox side pick one to go to Z/2 and ignore the other one :lol:

    what you could do is run the other to the earth claw to give it a really awesome earth :)
     
  13. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ahh I know what I've done then.
    When I pulled the light loom through the chassis legs, I pulled the earth up through a bung hole next to the battery but earthed this to the body near the washer bottle. I'll move it to the battery negative and see if I get light [:D]
     
  14. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Turns out I hadn't missed anything but the battery was just too low in power [:$]

    All lights seem to be working aside from 1 side repeater and a few bulbs blown in rear clusters i think as brake lights one side reverse lights the other etc.

    Blowers are noisy as hell though and still on speed 3 only so think I'll have to buy new resistor pack.

    Rev counter works [:D][:D][:D][:D]

    I wonder if the battery is being drained some how....has been fine on my mates car for the last year... I'll check out all the earthing to/from the battery.
     
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  15. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Sat having a think and I reckon the boot light might have drained it! I remember that the tailgate didn't quite connect with the button on the parcel shelf support - fingers crossed [8-}]
     
  16. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Turns out the boot light was on permanently so over the past few days this has drained the battery.
    With battery hooked up to the Skoda I found that all tail lights are working including reverse and brake lights, fogs, dipped and high beam all ok.
    all indicators apart from drivers side repeater front fogs don't work
    Horn doesn't work
    I'm pretty sure all dash illumination is out too.

    I think the horn is missing an earth as there is only 1 wire in the steering wheel boss. Where does the horn get earth from? And is the 12v the raised copper bit on the indicator stalk that sits flush to the steering wheel boss?

    Any ideas greatly appreciated [xxx]

    Thanks
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    with the boot light make sure you have the plastic buffer which hits the switch, poverty spec without boot light dont have this fitted as standard.

    with the horn the button should earth to the wheel, which is earthed to the column. some aftermarket wheel buttons have 2 wires once from the slip ring the other goes to a ring terminal under one of the wheel bolts, others have a metal tang which pokes out the side to provide the earth contact.

    the metal bit on the stalk is the switch contact to the slip ring, if you earth this to the column with a screwdriver the horn should sound
     
  18. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers for that.

    The boot did have a plastic buffer before t went to paint but now seems to be missing so I've disconnected the light for now until I get another one.

    The column shaft didn't have an earth wire poking up to where the boss is so I've diy'd one in and all is working as it should now :)

    The indicator is sorted - just a loose connection.

    Now just the front fogs to sort out as they don't work at all. Rear fog light ok, fuse ok, guessing the relay is shared with the rear fog?

    I'm so close to mot and this is all that is stopping me now :(

    Once I have some more t clamps for the intercooler piping I can give it a proper test as I haven't run the engine since before I swapped the turbo. Fingers crossed all is set up correctly lol
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    good stuff!

    yeah weith fogs if the rears work then the switch and wiring is all good, as is relay as its all on the same power input feed. issue is between switch and front fogs somewhere, maybe just corrosion on the 2 pin plug near header tank?

    you dont need front fogs for MOT so get it booked ;)
     
  20. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ahh nice! I thought that if fogs were fitted they must work. Onwards then lol

    I'll get the multi meter out and have a play tomorrow if the rain holds off.

    I'll check out everything is hooked up correctly with the turbo and give it a whiz tomorrow - fingers crossed!
     

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