First start-up advice

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by odub, Jul 18, 2017.

  1. odub Forum Member

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    Hi, i'm looking for advice regarding the first start-up and running in of my freshly rebuilt 20vt engine in my Corrado.
    To begin with the engine specs are:

    AEB running on AGU loom and management
    K04 turbo
    3" MAF housing
    82.5mm forged pistons
    Forged rods
    Ported and polished head
    port matched manifolds
    3" turbo downpipe into 2.5" exhaust
    BAM fuel rail and injectors
    3" Badger5 turbo intake pipe
    4 bar FPR

    The concerns I have are that the ECU won't control the engine well enough during the running in period before I can get the car onto some rollers for mapping and risk the safety of the engine.
    This being mainly because of the 3" MAF housing being larger than standard and the larger intake and exhaust pipework although, would this be offset by the larger injectors? I am open to and advice or recommendations as this is all very new to me.
    Hopefully I will be at the stage where I can fire it up in a couple of days

    Thanks
     
  2. opticaltrigger New Member

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    Hi there,
    The first fire up...Yes,very scary 20 minutes or so.
    Everyone has there own method for this.

    You don't say if your on OEM managment or stand alone.But if it's OEM and with the stock map then I would simply use the stock ancillary's,such as the FPR,injectors,MAF,etc.
    The engine won't care about the size of your pipe work,but it will care if you try to fire it up with a stock map and larger than stock ancillary's...It will quite possibly damage it to for the following reasons.

    The critical points in this phase are lubrication and heat.So If it fires up and doesn't run smoothly immediately you risk damage.
    This is how I do it......
    As soon as it fires,you must bring the rpm's straight up to around 2000 and hold it there for around 10 to 20 minutes or until your oil is warm and then spend another 10 minutes varying the speed up and down say 300 rpm,spending a few minutes at each of those speeds.By this time your motor will be fully warmed up and any potential problems will have surfaced by then.
    At this point you can let it idle for a little to be sure that all is well.
    Some people cringe at 2000 on a fresh motor,but it's ok because there is almost no load on it at all.The reason for this is that it builds oil pressure very quickly and maintains it when the oil is hot.Also,the bearing journals spend much less time in any one area and there by reduce the risk of hot spots from forming.If your using new cams then this is of even more importance as the pressure encountered at the followers is enormous.You must not turn a fresh cam slowly......Ever!

    Once your happy,dump the oil and filter and replace with new.This is also important and cheap by comparison.You only need the cheapest nasty oil money can buy for this.Your going to spend some time running it in I assume,so there is no need for high performance expensive lubricants,that's for later.Unless your going straight to the strip from the mappers that is.
    Iv'e seen guy's wince at the thought of discarding 20 quids worth of oil and filter in a 10 grand motor.Crazy......

    And that's it.Just don't let the motor run poorly, idle or overheat in this phase and all should be good.
    If at any point your not happy because something leaks or gets a little hotter than you want,or it runs poorly.Shut it down,fix the issue and go again.Watch everything everywhere while this is going on,and if you have one,use an oil pressure gauge to.

    Hope it helps
    All the very best
    O.T.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2017
    odub and HPR like this.
  3. 10mm socket Paid Member Paid Member

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    I be inclined to pull off the coilpack/ injector connectors first and keep on turning the engine over to get the oil around the engine.... until the battery is flat, before your attempt to properly start it.
     
  4. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Aye use cheap mineral oil as synthetic oil doesn't let the new rings bed in properly the 2000 to 3000 rpm you only need to do that if it's got new cams
    best to just drive it and slowly build up the revs decelerating in gear is just as important a thing some people don't realize
    nothing stop you bedding it in on the rollers if needed
     
  5. odub Forum Member

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    Thanks for all of the advice. I should have specified it is a standard OEM ECU. It looks like I will need to swap back to the original injectors and MAF housing before start-up. I am just waiting on a bit of piping for the coolant system then all is good to go hopefully
     
  6. opticaltrigger New Member

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    Yes,great.
    Fire it up on the standard hardware and all should be good.

    All the best
    O.T.
     
  7. dsj20v Forum Member

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    Hi sorry to hop on thread but I'm in similar with 1st start up on new fresh built 1.8t but I've a gt28rs genesis 550cc injectors running oem me7 management, so I have no standard hardware , is there anything different to do being it's not standard, can I or should I get a base map put on ecu by my mapper (bill at badger5), cheers all
     
  8. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    What has bill suggested?
     
  9. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    I fill the coolant system with boiling water to help the engine heat up faster.
     
  10. odub Forum Member

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    Thanks all. Should be up and running this weekend with some luck
     
  11. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    AEB, premapping, needs at least the HEGO, AGU injectors and MAF to match AGU 06A90618** calibration.
    You can drive it around at light loads without issue.
     
  12. odub Forum Member

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    I'm frustratingly close to this running. I have fuel and have checked the injectors firing, but I have no spark! There is a constant 12v at pin 15 on the coilpack plugs and no I'm a bit stumped. Are there any checks I can do or things to look for?
    Thanks
     
  13. 10mm socket Paid Member Paid Member

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    Have you wired in the diagnostics port?
     
  14. odub Forum Member

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    The diagnostics is wired in and isn't saying any faults

    Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    is the ECU AEB or AGU? The spark module wires are switched around between the AGU and AEB looms

    check ecu pin 1 and the coilpack lives have 12v with ignition on AND cranking, just in case you tapped to a X feed by mistake, and pin 3 needs permanent live.

    check the engine speed measuring block while cranking, if it doesnt go up the ecu isnt seeing a signal from the crank sensor
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2017
  16. odub Forum Member

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    The spark module is AGU and the ECU is AGU too.
    with the difference in wiring between the AGU and AEB spark module, i'm guessing that the AEB coilpacks won't match to AGU spark module?

    thanks for the all the tips
     
  17. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    I tend not to say much in posts like these however, from speaking to the owner on another matter, the ECU is an EU2 06A906018CG module.

    As a result crank sensor will be picked up if diagnosed as being no code ( no problem), intermittent or implausible.

    On AGU and other M3.8.3 control systems, a 4 channel ignitor does exist that fires the COPs after being triggered by the ECU.
    It is not common for these to fail but they do and being on a converted car also increases the risk on something gone wrong during the process.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2017
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    AGU and AEB coipacks are the same part numbers so thats no issue, does the fuel pump run while cranking?
     
  19. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    No spark there John lol.
    No point looking for fuel supply :thumbup:
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    my thoughts were if the ecu is triggering the pump, then we know it should also be trying to trigger the spark, and if so possibly point at the spark moduel beign at fault. if there is no fuel, then the ecu isnt trying to trigger a spark, so issue is before the module
     

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