Broken brake regulator?

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Justbe, Jan 15, 2018.

  1. Justbe Forum Member

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    I changed to Koni STR.T suspension kit, which is 35mm lower than OEM. In last MOT I was told that the brake regulators lever was stuck or not properly adjusted for the new suspension height. The car is Golf GTI 8V (1989) with ABS. At least the rubber thing has cracked (see the video below). Should I order a new regulator? I tried to loosen the brakelines but they are very stuck, only one opened while two of the nut started to round up... So in worst case scenario do I need to renew the brakelines?

    https://youtu.be/H6dA6qFBN9c
     
  2. Finite

    Finite Paid Member Paid Member

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    Get some penetrating oil on the pivot points and later work the lever. Eventually it should come free. I would try cleaning the flap on the rubber seal and smear some silicon or RVT silicon on the flap. Or you could just rotate it so that it's closer to the bracket and more shielded from road spray.
     
  3. Justbe Forum Member

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    Thank you for the answer, but pardon me I didnt quite get it.. [:D] so it doesnt matter that the rubber thing has cracked? Could I possibly save the regulator? How deep should the lever (with the bolt in the middle) go inside the rubber part of the regulator?

    Or do you mean that I should try getting the brake lines loosened from the regulator?
     
  4. BennyC Paid Member Paid Member

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    Have you tried moving the bracket so the tension returns in the spring as this is often needed when lowering. Had to do it on the wifes golf. Only couple 13mm bolts loosen them and move the bracket.
     
  5. Finite

    Finite Paid Member Paid Member

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    First part is freeing up the regulator lever. Move it back and forth as far as you can. To set it up you need to regain some tension on the spring and lever. If the rears come on like the handbrake is applied you've gone too far.

    It looks more like someone has speared the rubber seal with a screwdriver to me. You can get some more life out of it, but if the pipes are that bad it will last longer than your pipes by the sound of it even if you do nothing with the seal.
     
  6. Justbe Forum Member

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    Damn Ive had my handbrake applied all the time.. I just dont understand where and how far (from the regulator) should the lever be situated when having no weight in the back? When the back is heavy the lever should be as close as it goes the regulator am I right?
     
  7. Finite

    Finite Paid Member Paid Member

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    Sorry I can see that handbrake analogy is confusing. So I will try again. The rears come on under heavy breaking when they should be tapering off or virtually off (depending on the severity). The effect is similar though as the back is light and lighter still as the weight transitions to the front. The rears can and will lock well ahead of the fronts when the load regulator isn't fully functioning.

    Don't focus on the lever position just get some light tension on the spring.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    to set them up as VW intended you need to hook up pressure gauges to the rear brakes, so its not something the average DIY mechanic can do. The way I set them is adjust so the slack is just taken out of the spring while the car is on level ground. This will put minimum force to the rear until you start loading up the boot. works fine for me, but you can attempt to dial in a little more rear force by setting it so the lever is slightly pulled. depends on your overall brake setup/health and personal preference, minimum to the rear is safest as least risk of rear lock up. My rear discs are not rusty either so I know they are at least doing something :lol:

    as above for now get the lever moving freely, then see if the valve is salvageable. the lever should move easily but fully release under its own power once you let go, if it just flops about the valve internals are seized and/or the return springs are missing. If you pop the boot off you can see the return springs, since the boot is holed chances are the springs have rusted away
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  9. Finite

    Finite Paid Member Paid Member

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    I've looked at the gauges setup a few times, but the cheapest parts seem to be in the states sans shipping. It can be dialled out via road testing, but it's not for public roads.
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    and besides, aint nobody got time fo dat :lol:
     
  11. Justbe Forum Member

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    By popping the boot off, do you mean the black rubber (seal?) which is pressed by the lever and was a bit cracked in my case? Im afraid that the valve (or whatever is being pressed by the lever?) doesnt return. I guess they are the return springs youre talking about? Going to check it closer tomorrow.
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yes the rubber cover, the lever return springs are on the outside so are exposed to the elements if the boot splits
     
  13. Justbe Forum Member

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  14. Justbe Forum Member

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    Anyone? I have a MOT time for Monday, so should I try it like this just adjusted correctly or do I need a new part and cancel MOT? :)
     
  15. Justbe Forum Member

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    Okay should be working now, its probably Newton which is returning the valve! [:D] thank you for the help!! :)
     
  16. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Providing that you've loosened it up, it shouldn't be an issue, mine failed on this. Bit of GT85 and a wiggle, all was good and it passed :)
     
  17. Justbe Forum Member

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    Thats right :) mine passed as well!
     

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