Ive fitted an AUQ into an ex AUC Lupo. All the wiring loom questions Ive got through have been fed through this site, which is why I joined. I have left the engine side loom intact and its fitted to the engine. All traces and feeds from the AUC have been depinned and removed from the car, along with the old ecu plug. All I have left are feeds from the old fusebox such as fuel pump relay lives, Kline hi and low, main lives, coil live etc. I have rewired the starter and alt for a battery to boot and reused the original Lupo starter switched live for the solenoid. So the second part of the AUQ has been stripped of everything I dont want, such as second lambda, sec air, charcoal filter, ps switch and clutch switch. So, into the questions. Do I need to keep the brake switch? Whatever it is I understand it was for cruise but is also wired into two feeds into the AUQ ECU. AUQ loom has an ecu relay. Does the Lupo have one too? Can I just wire a switched live to the one on the AUQ loom and itll be fine? If not I presume I could just use the original coil live feed thats sat in he bay directly to the coils on the AUQ loom and cut out the AUQ ecu relay? The blue and yellow wire on the AUQ loom that feeds the maf, lambda and originally the secondary air systems.. can I connect this directly to a switched fused live from the original loom? Hope this makes sense, thanks for any replies. The Lupo loom is such a mare as its not simply one bunch of wires, the AUQ loom is simplicity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1. yes ideally, same goes for clutch switch 2. it doesnt, what I do for the polo/lupo -> 20v loom is keep the 20v ecu/coil relay and run the live feed from it straight to the battery fusebox. usually a spare spot, pop a 15a fuse in there. connect the big 2 pin plug as per factory 20v and job done 3. re-use one of the original engine pump power feeds. look for the one on T10d/4 that powered the lupo lambda heater for example.
Hi there mate. Really appreciate the reply.. think I sat and worked it out between the two wiring diagrams today. Im all wired up now with the exception of the cluster feeds. I have a diagram showing what each pin in the original AUQ clocks did.. but cant find one for the AUC/Lupo. The lambda power wire (red/white, deleted the post cat lambda is now spliced nicely into the AUQ blue/yellow supply to the first lambda and maf. As such all I really have left are the instrument cluster wires to work out. I know what they were on the AUQ side but cant find a diagram for what pin on the Lupo cluster actually is for (Kline, cts, revs etc). Im hoping that as theyre both mk4 the feeds will work without resistors? Next is to work out those Lupo cluster inputs and solid across. Everything else is done (I think) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Awful spelling sorry, I meant splice across. Cant seem to edit on mobile. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
this should help T32: (blue) 1 - blk - ignition live 2 - blk/grn - right indicator 3 - grn/wht - VSS output 4 - n/a 5 - pur - fuel level sender 6 - yel/wht - airbag control unit 7 - brn/wht - common sensor earth 8 - yel/red - coolant temp sender 9 - brn - earth 10 - blu/blk - oil pressure switch, high 11 - grn - rev counter 12 - blu - battery warning light 13 - red/yel - glow plug warning lamp \- yel/gry - CAT warning lamp 14 - gry/wht - rear fog light warning 15 - oil pressure switch, low 16 - rear lid 17 - wht - main beam warning 18 - blk/wht - left indicator 19 - yel - ABS control unit 20 - gry/blu - dash lighting 21 - blu/brn - driver door contact switch 22 - blu/red - coolant level warning 23 - red - permanent live 24 - brn - earth 25 - gry - diagnostics port K-Line pin 7 26 - gry/red - right sidelight 27 - gry/yel - left sidelight 28 - wht/blu - speedometer sender 29 - brn/yel - brake fluid & handbrake warning switches 30 - brn/red - ignition switch pin SU 31 - yel - driver seatbelt switch 32 - wht/grn - Emissions fault lamp or sidelight warning T32a: (green) 5 - yel/gry - EPS, only used on certain ECU codes 10 - wht/blu - fuel reserve warning 12 - bi-directional communication, aircon 15 - yel/gry - EPC warning lamp 19 - org/blk - CAN-HIGH from ECU or immobiliser control unit 20 - org/brn - CAN-LOW from ECU or immobiliser control unit 21 - oil temp sensor 25 - reset 26 - ambient air temp sensor 27 - org/blk - diagnostics port CAN-HIGH pin 6 28 - org/brn - diagnostics port CAN-LOW pin 14 32 - mpg signal
so MK4 -> lupo: T10/9 -> T10d/8 = rev counter T14a/4 -> T10a/3 = dash temp (yes mk4 sensor works fine on lupo clocks) T14a/1 -> T10d/6 = oil pressure (may need lupo switch, compare ratings/part number) T14/3 -> T14/1 -> T10b/3 = speedometer sender T10w/2 -> T10s/4 = can-bus high T10w/3 -> T10s/5 = can-bus low T10/6 -> T10c/9 = VSS to ECU T10w/8 -> T10s/7 = EPC lamp T10w/10 -> T10s/3 = emissions fault lamp T10/1 -> T10d/7 = w-line for diagnostics to immobiliser control unit probably need to have immobiliser defeated, unless you know someone who can pull the SKC code for immo box which is not easy, VW could do it for you though. Or bin the immo box and loop the 2 diagnostics wires on the port plug to get diagnostics working.
You sir are a superstar. That would wrap up my wiring nicely when I get home. Immob is already defeated off the ecu (had to learn how to desolder and bought an eeprom programmer but thats a different story). Glad you said the mk4 stuff will work off the cuff, hopefully can get this cracked tonight. Im expecting something to go wrong as its been quite simple in all honesty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was going to have a crack at this but I think Ive just confused myself more. I didnt touch any of the original t10 connectors in the Lupo and spliced the necessary wires in the bay. I have wires left over from the Lupo side, and wires left over from the AUQ side. They are all in the bay. I have remaining in the AUQ loom, to put somewhere: T14a pin 3 (dash speedo) T14a pin 4 (cts) Ecu pin 54 wire (speed sender to clocks t32a/3?) Also I have wires left in the bay from the Lupo loom I was hoping I could just connect up to the above. Doesnt seem so but here goes: Was ecupin30 epc lamp Was ecupin5 (speed sensor?) Was ecupin41 (revs) Was ecupin16 (mpg?) Now from getting the above I cant work out if I can connect any of the two wires in the lists. Maybe the speed senders. and I also cant seem to find the wire in the bay for the original Lupo CTS sender to the dash. Obviously if I need to run wires into the t10s inside the car this will explain why they dont initially match. I say I was hoping they would match in the bay as the car drivers door is right up against the wall in the garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
for the cluster speedometer sender, look for the smaller lupo 14 pin plug that used to connect to the main sensor loom to the engine, its pin 1 on there white/blue and from there it goes to the green 10 pin plug on the lupo loom behind the fusebox, pin 2. Join that to the MK4 T14a plug, pin 3. coolant temp sensor is on the green 10 pin plug T10a pin 3, yellow/red wire and join that to the MK4 T14a pin 4. Lupo ECU pin 30 -> MK4 fusebox plug T10w/8 -> MK4 20v ECU pin 48 (EPC fault lamp, MK4 white 10 pin plug 10 pin 8, may not work or even be there on the AUM loom anyway) Lupo ECU pin 5 -> MK4 fusebox plug T10/6 -> MK4 20v ECU pin 54 (VSS to ECU, orange 10 pin plug) Lupo ECU pin 41 -> MK4 fusebox plug T10/9 -> MK4 20v ECU pin 37 (rev counter) Lupo ECU pin 16 -> MK4 fusebox plug T10w/10 -> MK4 20v ECU pin 47 (emissions fault lamp, may not work or even be there on the AUM loom anyway)
Cant thank you enough for your patience. I have successfully started it, but I think my only problems lie with the wires to the cluster. I have a flashing coolant warning light and also I dont seem to be able to connect to the engine part on vagcom. My hi and low connectors are wired in correctly, Im confident. I think that the diag wire that goes via the clocks must be wired in wrong. Back to the drawing board for a bit However, it starts and runs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
there is no connection between the ecu and cluster on the lupo as it doesnt have the immobiliser in, instead vagcom talks to the ecu over the k/w-line via the immobiliser box. the can-bus is other comms between ecu and cluster so also unrelated. So double check: ECU pin 43 -> T10d red plug in scuttle pin 7 -> immobiliser box pin 7 sicne immobiliser has been defeated you dont need the immo box any more. if you already removed the immob box but didnt do anythign with the wiring then thats why, you just need to loop pins 7 and 8 on the immo box plug to enable diagnostics for coolant level try looping a wire between the 2 pins on the tank, check the earth for it is good back to the cluster harness. easy way is stuff an earthed wire into the blue/red pin. if that shuts it up the earth on the level sensor is snipped somewhere in the loom. if not go back inside and fine the T10b black plug, p[in 2 is the feed to the level sensor if you earth this then light should go out. if it does then you know issue is between this plgu and the sensor in the engine harness
Thanks Mate, Ill scout out the immob box now. Think its left in place. Ill bridge the connection. The flashing light, I presumed was too hot. If its level warning Im happy as it is low. Ill report back in progress! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Boom! What had happened, embarrassingly for me, is that I had seen immobiliser and snipped the wire and removed it from the Lupo loom. Id seen the word immobiliser and decided I didnt need it. Traced it to where you said, bridged what you said and now have diagnostics. First one points to my accel pedal issue. I think I have a pedal to ecu mismatch as I have read there is two different pinouts for the Octavia pedals. Ill check which one Ive used and see how that matches to the other one. Block 60 gives no movement of the pedal, and gives a false percentage and stuck. The last thing that worried me is engine load was at 100 percent when the car is off. Is this an issue? Once again John, I owe you a pint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good stuff whats the part number on your pedal? assuming its the early mk4 one this is the pinout you need (ecu -> pedal): 33-4 34-6 35-1 36-3 72-5 73-2
Hmm thats interesting. On autodata the Octavia pedal gives the following: 72-1 73-2 36-3 35-4 33-5 34-6 Ill double check my wiring.. if I have the setup I have just there (which Im positive I do) Ill try and rewrite it the other way. Pedal is off 02 Octavia AUQ.. same as the engine. Ill give this a go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
that autodata pinout is correct for the later complete pedal unit, I thought you had the early actuator sorry as its what the polo/lupo usually has
Still no joy with the pins in that format though. Just gonna double check y wiring then maybe try your way Yes I put an AUQ pedal on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
let us know the part number on the pedal anyway, just in case. any later mk4 petrol pedal will be fine, the pinout I pasted in above will only work for the early remote actuator type things (you know, just like the one you took off the lupo to fit the late mk4 type pedal )
Embarrassingly I cant count to six and my pins were wrong. Working and revving freely! Im an idiot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk