I went for the 2l 8V route last year and although I am very happy with the difference it made I think if I was to do it again I would go straight for the ABF. You'll get more for your money. My advice would be to save up more money and go straight for the ABF, there was one for sale on the classifieds for 100 though it did say it had a top end rattle, might be something simple though, maybe worth a sniff
16v, be it 1.8 or 2.0. on track my 8v is a bit of a pain constantly changing gear and runs out of puff really quick. have to say tho my 8v is great for scunting around little side roads
it was a bit of a tongue in cheek comment, never got as far as porting the head on my 2l 8v set up. but my 2l bottom end, Kent GS2 cam made 140bhp at Stealth. What would be the cost of flowing a head to make more power on top of that? Vs starting with an engine that already had more to begin with as stock?
OK, I may have found an ABF in my price range, I'm guessing that the ABF uses Digi, so what will I need in addition to the engine? I'm guessing ECU & loom, airbox& MFA is there anything else?
Fuelling shouldn't be a problem as the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail will maintain the correct pressure. For reference the K-jet pump runs about 60psi, Digifant runs at 30-40.
I shall post my pump tomorrow. It is soooooo pretty. You can look under the bonnet of my car and swoon, or look under the back end and swoon.
Yeah!!!! ECU, loom, immobiliser, early corrado VR6, Seat 2.0 8v/16v or GOLF GTD airbox. Any pain you suffer when carrying out this work will be well worth it.
the K jet pump runs at just over 100psi the system pressure on K jet regulated to 70 psi and the control pressure is about 48psi it all so has twice the flow rate of the digi pump i am not saying i cant be used just it is a bit overkill for a standard ABF
Valid point there Gaz. Have you seriously never had brake fade whilst driving your car with 239mm brakes? I just do not see the requirement for the slight increase a 16v powerplant transplant would give over a healthy 8v, if you do not drive the car hard enough with a 1.8 8v to have not already considered upgrading the brakes. Roll on the modified vehicle reports for the insurance company and no doubt increased premiums too. 2.0 bottom end 100 max, head gasket and decent head. Straight in without fannying around changing looms and ecus. It is fine for folk to suggest a 16v but there is a bit more to it than that, especially if you are paying someone to do the work.
Why change it when it is already there. More fuel is better than no fuel. Or give sell it to me and I will find a use for it .
Not really, the engine is so f***ed it doesn't actually get enough speed up to cause brake fade, besides which when I lowered it I didn't bother to adjust the load compensator so the rears do most of the stopping Pic courtesy of StuMc