looking now pictures arnt so good and those pipes taped up i need to replace if anyone has a part number
and the mixture screw only does when the flap is closed right? so in theory i can put this tweaked afm on and as long as it starts and idles that will be fine till i get my co meter out?
lol, and where would i find the markings of a tsr head? if anyone knows alsois it possible to bolt the rocker earths up to a seperate earth some so its not disturbed so much. also it gets oily and comes loose
Can you lay the std vw cam pulley over the vernier pulley, with the keyways in exactly the same place, and check the marks are the same on both. What make of vernier is it? Most do not come marked so it could be someone has marked it incorrectly. The early pulleys used different marks from the later ones too. You really need to get the crank v belt dampener pulley off, and put in the correct position to confirm that the crank timing belt pulley is fitted correctly. Lining the flywheel up to TDC does not automatically confirm that the crank timing belt pulley is in the correct position. 50% of the engines I have stripped have damage to the keyway from numptys doing timing belts with airguns on the main crank bolt instead of the 4 allen bolts on the v belt pulley. The oem cam pulley mark will never line up with the head if the crank timing belt pulley has rotated slightly. I will not be able to put anymore effort in here until you check this out.
the mark on the vernier looks machined on. it looks like the old kent multi hole but only has 4 bolts. im lead to beleive it cam from tsr with the engine the head came off. lined up keyways exactly and the standard, beit a pb pulley, the o,e mark is backwards on the [ middle of the tooth, and the vernier is between the teeth, if i put the pb pulley on i can line everything up like a standard engine so i reallyt dont think that is a problom. but i will check. thanks danny
Just so you know. The OEM 8v cam pulleys are also used on the intermediate shaft too. They have a dot on the outer side that is meant to line up with the tdc mark on the crank v belt pulley when the lower cover is off. This is to keep the intermediate shaft in the correct position so the dizzy does not rotate out of position.
after 300 odd posts revolving around idling/setup issues, please say that tape isnt there to prevent vac leaks. please say its there cos you were colour coordinating. or that this is one big wind-up and that you actually own a valver.. this thread being your way of taking the p*ss out of 8v folk for having so many vac leak probs.....
haha, naaa, they are abit perished but the oil inside and not outside tells me there not leaking, also i taped them up with the co machine connected, made zero difference, would of got slightly richer, also tested them with carb cleaner, and a propane torch. i am abit paranoide,lol, hence why i want to replace them and left the tape on, just incase. and before you mentian it the blob on the cts is aqarium sealant, the wire was abit bent so i thought id put that there to hold it in place, and to seal it.. just in case.... lol thanks though
good stuff! like you say could do with new ones.. put your(and now my) paranoia to rest. just tried pullin part numbers off mine but the last 3 digits are under the clip so tried vagcat and its down will post them up tomo if no-one beats me to it
FYI the AFM flap position directly controls fuelling above idle until it gets pinned against it's stop & transfers fuelling to the ECU look up tables. The afm flap is connected to a wiper arm on a track. This effectively works as a big variable resistor. As the flap opens, so the wiper moves and sends a bigger voltage to the ECU. As this voltage increases so the ECU fuels from a different "row" in it's lookup table. At idle, there is an air bleed channel that bypasses the afm. The mixture screw sits in this channel and is simply a restrictor. By adjusting it you are thus altering a calibrated air leak to set the base mixture. Slackening the afm spring allows the flap to deflect more easily for a given airflow and so gives a richer mixture through the range until the flap is pinned open. As the flap sits at a different point at idle with a looser spring it is important to reset the idle mixture with the screw as this will have altered. 2% CO is what to aim for. When the afm is pinned open and the fuelling goes to the ECU, your air fuel ratio is ecu controlled by injector duration. The only way to richen it further is to adjust the durations (via an ecu remap) or to boost the fuel pressure at the injectors with a different fuel pressure regulator. A different FPR will adjust fuelling across the range though, so afm and mixture settings will all need tweaking once again. Again, a RR is really required to quantify all the changes and find the sweet spot...
haha, exallent, thanks chrisipedia :O lol ahhh, john, just my luck. any other ideas of what to do about those pipes? chris.. i understand all what you put, but do you know why it has to be put in setup mode to set it? if i adjust mine without disconecting anything it adjusts and readings change no problom. also i dont get that if i set it at 2% in setup mode, its going to drop right back down again once everythings plugged in. iv searched all over google, even asked a bosch specilist garage who didnt know what i was on about. they said theyed have to contact bosch cause they have never heard of the setup procedure,lol thanks guys
also what could this noise be i get sometimes when the car gets hot. its normally as i go on the trottle pretty light but with some load, normally when pulling away or changing gear. sometimes get it when i go through the revs, somtimes random and just once. i presumed its pinking but apparently pinking only happens at high revs? sounds like a metel pinging noise, like a deisal in the wrong gear. and if my oil temp is going upto 112 without even driving hard, but the water temperature is ok. will that be the oil cooler fuubered?
is car now set with cam timing on equal overlap (as per standard pulley markings as outlined by danster), and timing with timing gun @6deg btdc?
reckon you should set it at standard marks (as per danster post) and 6deg btdc before goin any further. even if it causes it to run like sh*te will make diagnosing whatevers wrong much easier
not sure what you mean.. are you saying if it were to be fitted with original pulley (or vernier set as original pulley) it would require approx 1 tooth retard to look like equal overlap?
That is why I said it would be advisable to check the crank timing belt pulley is not damaged. If the standard cam pulley has to be a tooth out it suggest something is not right. Go standard first then tweak to suit.
