Toyotec's how to make your MK3 16v breathe on a budget. Part 2 added 14-12-09

What car is the airbox from Ben?

The mk3 item doesn't fit in a mk2, not sure about mk1.

I'm using a corrado VR6 airbox, the SEAT ABF items should be good for your car

 

dunno all i know is its an abf one pretty sure ill be able to make it fit i just doubt it will resemble an abf airbox by the time its in lol

 

Any more testing been done since the last update? Very interesting thread this, especially as I'm a bit of an airbox freak. This is mine.









Bottom half is from an 8v GTI, no hot air feed at the back.

I'm running a pipercross panel filter, and at the time of the dyno no cold air feed. I run one now from the fog light.



Engine is ABF running decat pipe and catback s/s system. I've just bought a chip off "Joe" on ebay, the same one that rubjonny has (6hp increase on the dyno).
It'll be interesting to see what she shows on the dyno with the added cold air feed, chip and possibly ported throttle body if I do it before the next RR day whenever I go to one. I'd like 165hp from those mods, but realistically, probably around the 160hp mark.

By the way Toyotec, you're more than welcome to use my car for dyno tests if you're local to Bournemouth

 

You may want to reduce the opening of the lower air-box away from the throttle duct end. The bottom opening only has to be larger than the top to be of benefit and with the bonnet closed the rear of the unit can get to 50+ degrees in low flow heavy traffic conditions.

Vehicle performance from you plot looks 'nominal' to me and is what I would expect using this brand of rolls.
I would say the modifications you propose should yield some sort of performance increase to the entire torque curve rather than "I want" it to have X bhp/tq. You are dealing with physics.

I see that day it was very moist when you tested (RH= 91%).
If you are interested join up in the national 16v dyno day. The link is in my signature.
There has been testing and further developments on other key 16v cars yes.

 

In what way does humidity affect power? Increase or decrease?

 

Excellent thread and very interesting. I bought a std airbox for my ABF as my car didn't come with one. Will have a bash at optimising it.
Will be interested to read the developments as and when they become available.

 

Do it. Not hard and just as good as the expensive kits on sale out there as the testing suggested.

 

I've just discovered that I've bought a mk3 airbox that will need serious butchery to fit my mk2 bay. Oops. Ach well it'll be something to work on.

 

ye can do far fuKN worse than standard eh lad! lol

keep us posted

 

He Toyotec can you tell me what the do with my 8v digifant 2 airbox? Doing the same is possible but there is a air temp meter and the intake its sqaure. What to do just fit a horn like you all did but its goes to sqaure can you give me some advice would be nice.

 

Very interesting read. Thanks to all for the input and sharing the knowledge/findings.

 

hi guys,

first of all i would like to thank toyotec for all the hard work done there, I was determined to buy an intake kit but after reading this I've turned up my mind. Just a couple of questions: so, correct me if am wrong, all which needs to be done to the airbox is to take the hot air stuff away, and seal the back hole and put the hot air hose to the ground. The upper stock velocity stack should be replaced with a horn type stack and at the bottom a slightly bigger horn should be cut and directed towards the head light other than to the fender.
The bigger the hole at the bottom the bigger the roar right?
so a bigger roar should be obtained if two velocity stacks are fitted at the bottom end next to each other, right?

one other question, as shown in the picture below all the ABFs have a black pipe going in the intake mani from a thing that sits right besides the air box hose. what is that for? i've seen some ABFs without it, can it be taken out and if so, how?

sorry for the tons of questions :/

 

If you mean the black pipe that goes from top of airbox across towards the intake manifold, under the plastic trim holding the ignition leads, then that is for the idle speed valve. Provides filtered air for the ISV.
Earlier models have a pipe that goes into the intake duct intead of the airbox.
Some cone filter kits join to the ISV pipe, others require a small breather / filter to be sourced

 

No I am referring to the black pipe going in the intake manifold near the throttle body.

 

That canister collects fuel vapour from the fuel tank and at certain condition opens and vents this into the intake.

 

thanks for your answer Ben S.

Correct me if am wrong, all which needs to be done to the airbox is to take the hot air stuff away, and seal the back hole and put the hot air hose to the ground.
The upper stock velocity stack should be replaced with a horn type stack and at the bottom a slightly bigger horn should be cut and directed towards the head light other than to the fender.
The bigger the hole at the bottom the bigger the roar right?
so a bigger roar should be obtained if two velocity stacks are fitted at the bottom end next to each other, right?

one other thing, the vacuum outlet near the throttle body should be left open when the small brown hose for hot air is removed?

 

Found a 76mm trumpet

 

Hi to everyone.

I was looking this picture, and i started to think over it. In the last spins at the engine (6750++) hp are decreasing. Its no big deal for stock ABF, but i'm spinning my engine until 7450. I'm using J&R cone filter with cold(ish) air intake. And reaching max power at 6580 (intake valve is in little retard). What do you think about it? Should i have to try modified air box.

I'm planning to put 266/262 catcams, about 11:5:1 CR and modify intake manifold by adding some more volume at the plenum (I red a topic in this forum about it).


http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h305/toyotec/N7NDO MK3 16v/MK3ABFAirinductionstudy.jpg


P.S. I'm sorry about my English.

 

This has been a very educational read, guys!

It's great that someone is willing to test this stuff, because otherwise we'd only have information from the marketing departments...

I have a question though.
On Toyotec's original mod the lower part of the stock air box didn't replicate the funnel shape of the original design.
Here's a mk2 one to show the shape clearly; the mk3, Passat B3 and all period VAGs seem to have something similar there.
The bell-end shape is there under the louvered part that attaches to the wall of the air box.



I'm thinking this design must have merit - and I'm trying to replicate this on my air box, only bigger than stock (since I have much more air flow than stock too).

Furthermore, does anyone know how this "bell-end" inlet works in terms of sizing?
On the mk2 EcoTD air box, the air box outlet is 70 mm but at the bell-end's throat the diameter is only 38 mm.

 

I went for a tuning on a dyno, last tuesday. I have a ported and polished head, with 268/268 Schricks. My airbox is completely standard, except the K&N panel filter.

After some test runs, we finally reached a decent result; 191bhp and 209Nm of torque.


But there was a slight vacuum in the intake manifold; the engine didn't get enough air... So we tried a run without filter, with open throttle. This was the result:



The torque curve around 2.500tpm is worse than with standard airbox, but there are 7 more hp's to gain. The K&N panel filter doesn't do the trick in this setup, so I'm also going to modify an original filter box. First I have to find one, but when I do, I will modify it and post the results.

There's a lot of information here !