Ball joint extenders (split from Motorsport Kit Porn thread)

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by NickBishBashBosch, Apr 8, 2012.

  1. NickBishBashBosch Forum Member

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  2. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Lack of clamping nut makes me cringe!
     
  3. lewp91 Forum Member

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    agreed..
     
  4. m1keh Forum Member

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    I'd stick a couple of holes in the bolt and the extender to then lockwire it. It's not the end of the world.
     
  5. lewp91 Forum Member

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    sounds pretty good that actually haha
     
  6. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    The nut would not clamp flat onto the far side, necessitating the machining of a shoulder...
     
  7. lewp91 Forum Member

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    as mentioned above could you not lock wire the bolts head to the extender its self, by drilling a hole above the bolt?
     
  8. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Sorry, skim read m1keh's post.

    I'm thinking more of clamping force and putting a nut on the back. IMO that cap screw isn't big enough anyway.
     
  9. lewp91 Forum Member

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    in comparison to the oem bolt i would agree specially under race use.
     
  10. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    Compared to ones we had :thumbup:

    [​IMG]

    http://www.pmwltd.com/
     
  11. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

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    A few notes on ball joint extenders. The figures used are purely indicative and are not to be taken as accurate! They are to show relationships between differing designs only.

    There may well be errors, so please point them out. I have not done these things for about 15 years, and, as you may well have come to realise, my grey cells are disapearing at a great rate of knots! So. Correct me please. I shall of course be UBER [:$], but NOT [:x]!

    [​IMG]
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  12. Billb Forum Member

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    And what about this: hole inside the hub is threaded 18x150, as the pin & the ball joint, pin has 18 mm diameter and is 127 mm long, "cone" 63 mm long, hexagon 35 mm dia, (30.5 face to face) and no welding. For the use of 14" rims, 12 mm longer for the 15" rims.

    P1000479.JPG

    P1000483.JPG

    IMG_0012.JPG

    Edit to recover some pictures!
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018
  13. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

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    Is this what you have Bill?

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Billb Forum Member

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    Nice, its a very strong system I'm using since the Ibiza, never had any problem.
    I broke another mounting with the shaft and the cone in 1 piece, without welding on Spa and was a little bit lucky not to have done it in "l'Eau Rouge".

    The only thing differeing from your dimensions is the 8? as half ball thickness, it is 11.5mm. (also 18 x 150)
     
  15. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

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    It is obviously a good design Bill!:thumbup:

    I was guessing the spherical bearing was approx 16mm thick! But if it is 11.5mm thick, then even better for lower stresses.

    Sorry, I do not understand 18 x 150? I thought that this was:

    M18 x 1.5mm pitch thread![:s]

    Dave.
     
  16. Billb Forum Member

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    11.5 half thick, 23 mm thick.
     
  17. mec82 Forum Member

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    Mods please split this off if we're straying off topic.

    This does look like a good design and I thought of a slightly different approach, I'd like to do something similar but would like to keep OE balljoints. ( I think with new MOT rules spherical joints without a boot would now fail?)

    what do you think of this? Excuse the bad drawing! [:$]

    [​IMG]

    I forgot to show a through hole for tightening the ball joint to the spacer.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2012
  18. Admin Guest

    Just trying to work out what you are saying, would this be better if it was not welded?
     
  19. mec82 Forum Member

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    If I've read it correctly it shows that welding would give a lower stress by a factor of around 10. I am feeling quite hungover today though so I may be talking total rubbish! [:$]

    I always seem to be going to great lengths to find ways of working without a welder, maybe I should just buy one!
     
  20. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

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    Mech.

    Now't wrong with your sketch, as it gets the message over and that it what matters!

    Two points:

    I looked at similar designs using precision shoulder capscrews and, without machining most of head away, or, machining the top of the sloted part away, the head would foul the CV joint. My idea was also to use a spacer tube, like billb's design, but he beat me to it!

    You can buy rod end seals from SealsIt. I am using them on the designs for NWR's new Ibiza rally car.

    http://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp

    Dave.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2012

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