Fusebox FAQ

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by rubjonny, Jul 30, 2010.

  1. cupracraig

    cupracraig Paid Member Paid Member

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    little bit confused on my electric window setup on the ce2 golf gti fusebox

    y1234 is as follows..1-2 unused / currently have a single connector on for electric windows...so perm live
    y3 battery live
    y4 bridges to 30b

    d9 seems to be 2 black wires, one with a connector on the end and the other is going off somewhere but seems to be indicated in the guide as 9 - blk/yel - electric window relay pin 86 (ignition live, fuse #14)..the wire looks too thin to feed the windows.


    So basically i have 1 free slot perm live and one used spot for windows live.


    The drain must be minimal but its obviously got the switches lit up all the time and i want to avoid that.

    any thoughts?
     
  2. cupracraig

    cupracraig Paid Member Paid Member

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    little bit confused on my electric window setup on the ce2 golf gti fusebox

    y1234 is as follows..1-2 unused / currently have a single connector on for electric windows...so perm live
    y3 battery live
    y4 bridges to 30b

    d9 seems to be 2 black wires, one with a connector on the end and the other is going off somewhere but seems to be indicated in the guide as 9 - blk/yel - electric window relay pin 86 (ignition live, fuse #14)..the wire looks too thin to feed the windows.


    So basically i have 1 free slot perm live and one used spot for windows live.


    The drain must be minimal but its obviously got the switches lit up all the time and i want to avoid that.

    any thoughts?
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    with the factory electric windows they should have a relay for power, but some of the aftermarket kits dont run one so you need to put it on a good ignition live circuit. trouble is non of the D ones are man enough and you will pop the fuse eventually.

    the black wire you have is probably for the heated washer jets, so you probably dont have a relay. Does your live wire have a fuse on it, the factory live should have one clipped to the fusebox with a metal thermofuse in it or a standard 30a fuse.

    For the relay you need a standard 4 pin switched type, 53 would do or OEM its sometimes a 24. Wire it up like so:
    30 - Y spade via fuse
    85 - earth
    86 - ignition live
    87 - to window switches

    you can use the spare wire with connector on D/9 for your windows, the empty plug fitted to it taks a standard junior/power timer type pin which is widely available and cheap :)
     
  4. cupracraig

    cupracraig Paid Member Paid Member

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    The live wire is as you describe, It appears to be the factory loom for the window with the metal thermofuse and the fusebox attachment, so its clipped in place and looks very OEM.


    30 - Y spade via fuse (perm live to the relay
    85 - earth
    86 - ignition live (could i tap into something like the stereo ignition live as its essentially just the signal to activate the relay?)
    87 - to window switches (Keep the wire as is and the fuse intact)
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok if its a factory setup find your window relay (it might be behind the centre console) and check the wiring on it.

    for the ignition trigger anythign will do its not under any load, factory the stereo doesnt have an ignition live but the very late runout spec was fed by the ignition switch key-in-ignition live on pin SU, this again would work fine and your windows will be triggered as soon as the key is inserted. or if you've had an ignition live run to the stereo from somewhere else then that will alsdo work fine :)
     
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  6. dallen1984 New Member

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    I currently own a J reg 1.8 8v driver and want to convert to a 8v GTi. What changes would I have to make to the wiring loom? Or would I require a donor loom? Have an ECU and Engine. Thanks for any advice.
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    engine side make sure the engien loom is from a 90spec and its plug and play. at the back I would go for a mk3 tank, lines, filter carrier and rear loom then drop a fuel pump in from mk3 gti, 16v or vr6 as its all a bit easier to get, newer and you only have the 1 pump to worry about. Split the 4 wires from pump to fusebox out the rear loom then drop it on top of your old rear loom, done!

    then its a case of uprate the running gear to your liking, lowering kit, gti rear beam with roll bar or a pair of uprated roll bars (1.8 driver has same front roll bar as gti & 16v) plus rear discs if you want, bigger front brakes etc. You can upgrade to gti vented discs and pads without changing the calipers for a quick and easy upgrade though and rear discs dont really improve the rear braking performance since the rears dont do a great deal. if you did though you already have the bias valve so thats one less thing to worry about
     
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  8. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Solid gold info, if it hasn't been said enough so far
    Thanks
    Jon
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Cheers Jon :thumbup:
     
  10. stephcasscar Paid Member Paid Member

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    I’m so glad this thread is still active
     
  11. corey a scott New Member

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    Ok sorry for sounding stupid I am hoping you can help I am working on a 20v 1.8t into a 1981 caddy and dont think I have ether of this fuse boxes just trying to make sure everything is right befor I make a mess
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Hello there, for a pre-83 MK1/caddy/cabrio you will have the earlier ceramic fusebox, its covered a bit further down the page.

    With this one I wouldn't advise you run anything through the original fusebox, it isn't up to any kind of serious load. Instead mount both your ECU and fuel relays separate from the fusebox using VW relay holders, and add fuses for the ECU/coil power, plus 2 or 3 for the engine electrics depending on what type it is and what you delete. for the ignition triggers for these relays you can run a wire to G spade 3 at the top of the fusebox, earth triggers to the claw or ecu as required.

    Run the old coolant temp sensor wire at C/1 and oil sensor wire at C/12 and maybe to the T14a plug same as my guide says, you only need the one oil wire so thats handy. keep the wiper wiring as it was before. run your starter power to the new starter motor, its seperate from the fusebox on these from a connector near the fusebox fed from ignition switch. you could depin the old wire and replace with the mk4 feed if original is all old and grotty, all the fusebox pins are available mk1-4 pretty much just need to get some good crimp tools.

    . For rev counter look for the old red/black wire from the coil or if it was a diesel to the W terminal on the alternator. If it didnt have a wire at all, then it needs to go to C/19.

    Think that should cover you off the top of my head, let me know if you need any more clarification :)

    only possible faff might be with coolant temp some older MK1 have a 'to cold' switch at C/1 instead of a sensor and a 'too hot' switch directly to the clock wiring. If it does have these switches then it'll be fiddly as you'll have to find some kind of alloy flange to put in the top hose or hose to heater matrix with threaded fittings to suit, the original might work not sure how it is on those... but pretty sure that an 81 will be a normal dash temp sensor if so you can use the normal workarounds as posted in my oem guide:
    https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...install-faq-now-with-added-dieselness.267196/
     
  13. Smithdog84 Forum Member

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    Hi all.
    Wondering if some one could help me.
    About to remove the loom from my 2000mk3 cabrio, and was wondering what plugs need unhooking from the fuse box so I can pull it through the bulkhead.
    It is the type with the head lights bundled with it and is a ce2. thanks in advance.
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    A1, A2, C, F, G1, G2, S, Z/1, Y, Z/2. plus a few extra plugs seperate from the fusebox :)
     
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  15. Smithdog84 Forum Member

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    nice thanks jonny. Will be straight on this at the weekend now.
     
  16. gustycrosswinds New Member

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    Hey rubjohnny, some early style ceramic fuse boxes say FD-HH and nothing more. Can these be used in place of the 171 941 813 B early style ceramic fuse box? Thanks
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    hello there, got any pictures?

    I know there are at least 2 versions of the MK1 board, from memory the main difference is the early, early version is missing the power rail inside for the fuel pump power pin. no great loss as it turns out, the GTI is prone to burning out the fuel pump power pin so VW made a relocation kit for the fuel relay to bypass the fusebox
     
  18. JRyan New Member

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    I'm looking at the diagrams here and I don't see the diagram that is in my 1983 VW Rabbit GTI. (This is the USA version, probably made in Westmoreland PA.) The relays are on the top and sides of the board with the fuses in the center. I have the Bentley manual but it doesn't have the correct layout. Does anyone have the diagram for that one?
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  20. Smithdog84 Forum Member

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    Just trying to plug my loom back in on my ce2 fuse box in mk3 golf cabrio.
    Is there a certain way to clip the plugs back in. Can’t seem to locate the nib on the back of the plug.
    In self isolation so trying to push on with my conversion.
    Thanks in advance.
     

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