Well the map should have also included deactivating all those messages. The missing message will return as there is no airbag ECU, ABS or CAN. N80 is the EVAP valve which needs turning off and I guess at this rate, it will also have a MIL for B1S2. Over boost usually points to the limits not calibrated with enough headroom.
serves me right for not seeking the most well known of mappers/tweekers back in the day i spose.what does this mean ? "MIL for B1S2"
my GTI grill was a bit tired, so i got hold of another grill (non GTI) and thought about painting it... but decided to give the vinyl a chance. its actually not too bad...but how long it will last.
They have been re-built, i'll run the seal on them tonight and put them in the loft i spose. No point putting tyres on them when im in money saving mode.
yes, the fronts have gone another 1/2 " wider but the rears remain the same., decided to split them all again anyway to polish up the bits and bos and replaced the fronts with radinox lips
I was reading some of Toyotecs forum posts on AGU mapping and i have a 06A906018CG ECU: "The later M3.8.3 ECUs are flashable or writable via diagnostic port, such as the 06A906018CG ECU but not readable unless the flash EPROM is removed. It is the early stuff such as 06A906018R that is not readable or writable without chip removal." Tototec So this is a good start if i want to change upto a stage 2 map at some point. From what i understand, it should allow for much easier mapping but i need to now understand if the flash EPROM has been removed. Would anyone know how to establish if it has or has not been removed?
The EPROM is a chip within the ECU, so you’ll have to find out which chip it is, then see if it’s been removed Unless the Flash bit means it’s a software version? but I assume it’s just it’s name.
Had a few hours spare from the kids and decided to take the arch liners out at the front and have a look to see what was going on there. Had a bit of a cleaning session with some china bought drill brushes... they basically look like those ones that detailers use on carpet and one looks like a bog brush. So i wet the whole area with all all purpose cleaner and gave i a scrub with a wash mitt which obviously loosened loads of mud. i then went to work with the drill and bog cleaner brushes.. the result was this: So its cleaned off all the mud that i can get to and left with some blackened / stained underseal stuff and some is like a silver or beige colour. The arch liners themselfs came out quite nice and i re-installed them and treated them to some autoglym trim protector. so what would your next step be? I think grinding it all back and re-doing it in Raptor Black all will be on my winter list. that will be a fun job
I’d get yourself some RTF, which when concentrated is fantastic although keep it Away from paint. And give it a good clean with that, should come up cream. Make sure it’s sealed nicely, and no cracks, then paint it that’s what I’d do.
I removed the cone filter and got my thinkin cap back on with regard to the airbox installation that i have been thinking about for some time. Materials were lacking and whats the point in ordering anything, i ordered some silicone for my BBS wheels abotu a month ago and it's still not been delivered. I had some 2/3mm steel flat bar baying about so thought it was time to break out the blowtorch, vice and get a bending! The first result! I have ideas on how to improve this initial fit....and my god i wish VWG had made a smoother outer for these box's...they are complete dirt traps! I have an old air filter in there for now, i will need to order up a performance filter. Downside... lost the nice sound that my DV made, but whatever...this looks better than that sounds in my opinion.
its one from an octavia, the AGU one i have is a bit scuffed up as its just been thrown about in the garage for a few years. Next thing will be to add a hole for the AGU's ignition amplifier...i would like to get rid of this somehow though
the only issue i have had is that you need to cut a chunk out of the airbox at the bottom to stop it fowling the 02j gear selector... but as i only drive it in the dry thats not an issue...the filter is still the barrier for crud getting in