So I started stripping the engine down yesterday. So far the inlet manifold, throttle body, fuel lines, exhaust manifold and rocker case have been removed. I think I need to set TDC before I remove the timing belt and drain the coolant. Then finally remove the head. I'll upload some pictures soon but anyone have any advice before I continue to the next stage? I guess I should set it all up to TDC and mark everything? I'm thinking to mark the camshaft gear marks on to the chain using tippex, I'll do the dizzy too. I just don't want to forget anything!
dont technically have to have engine at TDC before strip down, its when you put it back together you need to be careful if the head is complete with cams as you dont want any valve contact
That makes sense @rubjonny - Thanks Need to buy a tool to remove the stem seals, any recommendations? My rocker was previously painted and I want to go back to an OEM look. Even the inlet manifold has been painted The paint on the rocker is like powder and rubs off? I'll clean as much as I can but what paint can I use to go over this?
you can get dedicated stem seal pliers, I managed on my 8v without but it was a bit of a faff if it was me I would go back to bare alloy and leave it, but depends how long you want it looking nice for. silver paint/powder never looks quite right to me as its to even, maybe could find some kind of satin laquer to stop the alloy corroding so much? though once I buffed up my abf its stayed pretty nice looking for years if not clean then 'honest' as Mr Brewer likes to say
This is what it currently looks like but I want to go back to stock. Removing the fuel lines, do they simply pull off from the inlet manifold? I tried but didn't look like it wanted to give? Is lapping the valves once I get there something I should be doing? or is it the case of checking and then deciding?
yes the injectors just pull out, can be well stuck in there try spraying some penetrating oil round the top of the injectors while pulling if you're going as far as pulling out the valves, lapping them back in is definitly worth doing while its apart. make sure you are careful when stripping engine ensuring all parts are labelled so they go backj in the same place they came from, sorting valve gear into egg boxes and poking valves thru card is a good trick as its all been painted nice you might find is easier to swap your stuff for original condition stuff then all you have to do is clean/polish alloy parts rather than strip paint off as well. just make sure the valve cover is the same type as yours the bolt down ones differ to nut and stud fixing ones. easy to ID, the later type nut & stud have 2 dips in the middle where the nuts go, early ones are flat
regarding the stem seals, any particular brand I should buy or avoid? Or are they all equally as good as each other?
I've just seen you can buy a head gasket set so I'm going to buy that! Where do most plp buy their stuff from? I'm going to change the water pump and timing belt at the same time
This is what I've found; https://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=831 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REINZ-02-25745-16-GASKET-SET-CYLINDER-HEAD/293837257039 https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/027198012h-cylinder-head-gasket-set-gti-16v.html vwspares says "Engines up to KR148313 have a 50mm inlet manifold, and you will need to purchase the correct 50mm inlet manifold gasket separately. Engines from KR148314 and all PL engines have the 42.5mm inlet manifold" I have no idea? I've got the 1990 KR engine if somebody can help me out?
pop a picture of your engine, even if your car originally had one size it may have been switched to another at some point
So I managed to get the head off today Managed to get some coolant into the pistons when I removed it but it was quickly wiped. Looking at the exhaust manifold, cylinder 1 seems to be burning a lot of oil going by what the outlet looks like? Do the valves look OK?
from what we can see all looks fine, only when you strip it down and do the required checks you'll know more. may be the valve guides on #4 were worn which is the real reason it started leaking oil so you'll be checking those as per the manuals as you go. make sure you carefully store each part as you go so everything stays in its original location come the rebuild. egg boxes work well for this and poke the valves thru a sheet of card marked up where they came from etc head skim I suppose may as well while you're stripping it right back, but usually if its not overheated then you're ok. also could could have the guides done at the same time, can be done DIY but its a fiddly job but easily done in a proper workshop while you've already got it booked in. your call on that
any links to those guide would be appreciated @rubjonny Looking at the gaskets, the rocker and inlet manifold look new so I'm thinking of only buying the ones I need. What do you think? or shall I just change them all? Also, the valve stem seals included in those kits, are they any good? I'm thinking of the Reinz kit if I was going to go down that route! Other brands out there inc Meyle and Elring. Any suggestions?
