Alittle update. Last year I ended up using the mk1 oil filter housing and tapping into a hole already in the block. The predrilled hole was at an angle so it was a hit or miss whether it was going to work. Unfortunaly this didn't go to plan and I had a small leak from the weak mounting point. I've now modified the blanking plate again. I've also changed the design to of the mk1 filter housing so it matches the mk3 mounting holes. This way it will mate upto the block as intended. As everything has been taken off again, i'm looking to add a pipe some how from the blanking plate up to the crankcase as mentioned would be best todo. If anyone has a picture of how you have done yours, please post a pic, would be nice to see.
UPDATE: The blanking plate with the breather pipe has been completed. As well as the timing belt covers. Once everything was timed and checked it was time to go for a test drive. I went for a test drive yesterday drove about 1/2 miles. When all of a sudden it switched off. At the end got recovery who took it w back to my house. I opened up the timing belt to find it had slipped. Once the cam belt was taken off I turned the crank slightly. I then went to turn the camshaft and it was seized. This is without the cambelt on. So I've now removed the cam cover to find the camshaft was running dry without any oil. One of the bearing caps have over heated and worn down causing the metal on the camshaft/head and bearing to wear, which in turn cause the cam belt to lockup, causing it to slip. The camshaft is bone dry, I put assembly lube, but it looks like no oil reached upto the head. Does this conversion require a different oil pump?/ what have I done wrong?
I am no expert here did you prime the oil pump and prime engine before starting ?.from reading other agg 2e swaps you need some kind of adapter ring for dizzy.wonder was shaft on oil pump not spinning to pump oil up to head ?
I can definatly say I didn't prime the engine... now reading up about it, the engine oil was left draining on the engine stand for at least a day before I got working on it. I've got the adaptor ring needed for the dizzy, so when started it was spinning. But it could have had a air lock, due to not priming the block or cylinder head like you mention. As the cam is removed I can spin the intermediate shaft, and in theory oil should come to the top fairly quickly, if it's primed?
Before you install the pump you put it into fresh oil and spin shaft to fill pump What I did when I put engine back into car I left black/white wires of coil and spun engine few times to build up oil pressure I have oil pressure gauge on centre console so was help to see pressure
You want to run the engine on a 100% mineral oil for a few hundred miles to run it in, then switch over to semi synth. Prime the oil pump with vaseline, it's a crude oil derivative and will guarantee the pump is primed (it'll not run out!!) and will do no harm. The mineral oil with go slightly off colour that's all.
weird you didnt see an oil pressure warning though, is the 0,.3 bar brown/blue oil switch in the side of the heaD? this will tell you if you have low pressure to the head. if the wire got earthed somewhere and/or the pressure switch was in the filter housing then this could have switched off the light even though head had no oil
i've now taken it off, and will do that. currently i dont have a oil pressure guage fitted, what sort of pressure does it normally sit at?
thanks for the tip. I used a semi synth straight away . Do you use the vaseline to block the feed where oil goes in, that way it stops the oil draining out, or should it be mixed with the oil and then primed?
I had a faulty sensor which was causing the temp to go beyond half way, the fan etc wasn't kicking in. At the same time another light that was flashing, at first i thought it ment low oil. which i later realised was low oil pressure
Just take the pump apart and whack a load of vaseline in there. Put it in and then fill up with the mineral oil run it for a few hundred miles and avoid too much load and that's your run in, then new filter and semi and off you go While your in there check the pump itself, you should find that 0.05mm feeler should fit between the gears, go up to a 0.2 and that should stick. If it doesn't replace the pump - you may want to hunt around and confirm those numbers, that's from memory.
Hi, Did you ever find the cause to this? I experienced exactly the same with my AGG, where the cam did not get any lubrication, and the last bearing got too hot and seized the cam. Exactly the same damages as on your pictures. I also used the MK1 oil filter housing and suspects that this (maybe also connected to the oil pressure valve), could be the culprit?! I am very eager to hear more, as I still have not found the problem. Best Regards
Looking at this picture, I really think, that the Oil filter housing is the problem. http://forum.vwsport.com/pics/data/3089/medium/Oil_Flange_ports_ABA_Block.jpg