'89 Golf Mk2 TDi Build Thread

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by DN5, Apr 11, 2016.

  1. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    It has some torque in there, I'm just trying not to give it too much until I know it's running ok lol

    I'll get the laptop out later and try a log in third gear. Post to follow :thumbup:
     
  2. m1keh Forum Member

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    I’m sure you will soon be giving it some stick and wanting to get the r520’s in to get the power up ;)
     
  3. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'm going for the GIBONTA .280 nozzles lol
     
  4. m1keh Forum Member

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    Oh yeah I forgot that!

    Are you getting some miles on it now?
     
  5. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I've done around 120 in it since the MOT so I'm enjoying things :) one thing I have noticed is that the fans didn't seem to kick in at all when sat in traffic. Is there a way to test these with vcds? Can I make them run as a test or anything?
     
  6. Spacecowboy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Are you 100% the fan isn't kicking in? I thought that about mine until I had the bonnet open the other week and noticed the fan running but it was so whisper quiet (I mean super mega quiet) I'd never noticed before.
     
  7. m1keh Forum Member

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    AHU TDi also don’t put much heat into their coolant when idling so the fan only kicks in rarely anyway. Was your temp gauge high?
     
  8. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    The gauge sat at around a quarter all day then as soon as I sat at the lights near home it flew up to half way. Mk2 clocks that is. The mk3 clocks it was half way all the time.

    I'm running the mk2 rad and fan also.

    I'm not certain it's bad but I just didn't hear it so don't want any cooking issues.

    I'll jumper wire them to see they're good and go from there as vcds wouldn't let me into output tests without a login or registration :cry:
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you just need to go into measurting blocks and fine coolant temp there, doesnt need to be registered to see that. mk2 clocks should sit near 1/2 normal temp (90 degrees) then when sat for a bit at around 3/4 the fan should cut in
     
  10. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yep I've been in measuring blocks looking at it before so I'll do so again :thumbup:
    I'll get it running full temp today now it's a little warmer outside and see if they spin up ok
     
  11. m1keh Forum Member

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    Sounds like your stat might be not working if it doesn’t sit at half way on the gauge.
     
  12. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ok so out right now testing things with the coolant temp and fans.
    This is where it sits on the motorway -
    20180605_111330.jpg

    This is parked up engine running and vcds showing 90°c dead on -
    20180605_112807.jpg

    After idling for 20 mins it's sat around 95°c and here on the dash -
    20180605_113257.jpg
    Still no fans yet!
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    what temp does vcds say when gauge is only just out of the white zone?

    looks like thermostat issue if gauge struggles to get out of the white zone while driving and only gets to the notch to the left of the middle/90 degrees when sat...

    fans should kick in when gauge gets past half. the thermoswitch is set to trigger the fan at 95 degrees but remember that is radiator temp rather than engine temp, so while gauge/vcds may read 95 degrees the radiator may be a bit cooler around the thermostat after the radiator has dumped some of the heat out of the coolant
     
  14. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I think just out of white zone was around 70°c

    I have a new thermostat and plastic housing that I can whip on but didn't want to waste the coolant if it wasn't the thermostat. I'll get cracking later if weather holds off and see if it cures it.

    I'll also bridge the radiator sensor socket and see if they kick in too just to be sure the fans aren't dud.

    Loving the noises the 150 turbo makes [8D]
    Cheers!
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    cool it looks like your gauge is working fine then, all matches up to vcds readings :)

    if you feel the pipe from stat to rad runnign car from cold it should stay cold till gauge is near 1/2 then start to get warm. if it warms up straight away then bingo, stat issue
     
  16. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ok, sound idea - I'll try that out before I swap it over just to see. I'm certain now though that it's the stat like you say.

    That just leaves me to whip on 2 front calipers I have spare to see if it clears up the low spongy pedal any more.

    If I adjust the rod length at back of pedal going into the servo - will that push the pedal back and higher or will it push the rod further into the servo thus shortening the pedal travel?
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    adjusting the clevis pin will set the resting height of the pedal, it wont affect the brakes. unless you adjust it untill the pedal hits the upper stop and add a bit more, that would be like slightly pressing the pedal if you get me. But I'm not sure if there is enough adjustment to the clevis pin for it to hit the upper stop anyway...
     
  18. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ok I'll leave it alone for now then. Currently the brakes are working but low and spongy pedal.
    I trust them if that makes sense so thinking bad caliper.
     
  19. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Rear stub axle spacers fitted 20mm gain each side -
    20180605_183858.jpg 20180605_192135.jpg
    20180605_183843.jpg 20180605_192049.jpg

    Fills the arch much nicer [8D]
     
    Spacecowboy likes this.
  20. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    20180606_211514.jpg

    Anyone got any experience with this?

    Brake lights work as they should but the cruise won't work :(

    If I clear this code it goes till pedal pressed a few times and then back on.
     

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