Mk2 from Australia

Discussion in 'Say 'hello' in here.' started by Scozzie, May 29, 2018.

  1. Scozzie New Member

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    Hello all,

    Currently building an Seat ABF engined oz delivered mk2 GTI, used lots of wiring loom guides from here (super helpful) but stuck on how to wire up an OBDU 16pin socket not using the immobiliser box.

    I understand that mk3 golf pin 43 is Diag grey/white, but on Seat loom pin 43 is green?

    Any help appreciated!
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    pin 43 is pin 43, dispite whatever weird colours the Spanish decide to use lol

    so yeah, without immobiliser box pin 43 -> vagcom port pin 7 then pin 16 to live, pin 4 to earth :thumbup:
     
  3. Scozzie New Member

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    I knew you’d come to my help!

    So 3 wires and it’s a go with diagnostics ?

    Oh do you have VW part numbers for ABF distributor & cap? It’s a struggle here in oz
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep thats all you need :)

    arm is 052905225C and shared with 8v models so no worries finding one of those, beru part number is EVL134. cap is the tricky one 037905207, beru VK444
     
  5. Scozzie New Member

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    Mucho appreciated!

    Will let you know how I go :thumbup:
     
  6. Scozzie New Member

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    Hi John,

    Cap coming from Germany via Vw :thumbup:

    G2/09 - Heavy red on ABF loom - bin ?

    F/03 - alt blue wire, use ABF one or mk2 one in lighting loom?
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    G2/9 is a permanent live feed, on the SEAT loom you will the immobiliser is tapped into it so it can be binned if its been defeated :)

    F/3 blue its up to you, use the old mk2 wire or the new mk3 whatever works best for you. if you have a mk3 alternator and wiring loom it'll plug straight into the mk3 blue wire, if you have a mk2 alt/loom then it'll plug into the old mk2 blue wire
     
  8. Scozzie New Member

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    Hi RJ hope you can help further......

    Engine started great and slowly revved to 3k, did this a few times.

    Once warmish(no rad yet) would struggle to start and barely idle, let cool down and still acting the same as warm.

    Fitted new CPS.

    Got my scan tool on it,
    ECT defective - no change unplugged.
    TPS Fault in circuit - reading 5volts and pins 1&3 resistance changing in throttle operation.
    G145 mechanical failure ( dizzy) ?

    Cleared these down, now no faults ???
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    check the ecu measuring faults next, any faulty sensors will show up clear as day in there.

    the tps wirign is probably baked hard and destroyed behind the inlet so I would strip the lot off and check end to end. bin off the breather heater plug its the 2 pin brown and black wire near the throttle body. brown goes to head to pull out and black taps to isv live snip off the junction and tape it back up.
     
  10. Scozzie New Member

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    ECU measuring faults? Where would I find them?

    Also replaced ECT sensor.

    With the dizzy mechanical fault, could this be hall sensor failure?
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  12. Scozzie New Member

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    Sadly I don’t have vag com.

    So had the multimeter out and tps doesn’t have its 5v feed, checked back to big round plug 0v, now at ecu 0v

    Dizzy has 6v using its own earth or tps earth.

    ECU was a vagtronics for Immob off and health check......
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its worth strippign the loom from round plug to sensorts on engien off, they are often damaged behind the inlet manifold.

    usb vagcom cable can be had for less than £10 these days and all you need for basic diagnostics like this :)
     

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