Hi All I'm a long term owner of a 1990 Mk2 1.6 driver, EZ engine code. After a long SORN period, a few children and a long term construction project I've decided to get it back on the road for some weekend drives etc. One of the (many) things on my list is brakes. AFAIK, I need to: Replace brake hoses on all wheels (2 were MOT advisories previously) Renew pads, discs and shoes Renew brake fluid Renew (at least) OSR metal brake pipe (previous MOT advisory) Which one should I tackle first? on a wheel by wheel basis? or item by item i.e. all hoses, all pads etc. Any recommendations / links on how to do each task? Thanks in advance Simon
the order you fix things doesnt really make much of a difference really, though obv fluid change needs to be last If your front calipers have 'VWII' stamped on them then you can fit GTI 8v vented discs and pads for a slight upgrade, but if its all bone stock there is no real need. again your call. main thing I would recommend is you get a proper 11mm flare/crows foor/brake pipe spanner this will reduce the risk of rounding off any brake fittings as you go round the car. for any flexi pipes you are going to replace cut them and slip a ring spanner up to get the best grip on the flexi side as well. up front, make sure you dont for4get the rubber grommets that hold the pipes to the struts, its a real downer if you only realise once the brake fluid is all flushed nice with the hard lines have a good look, and remove the heat shield under the car so you can fully inspect the one which runs from passenger side to driver side beam flexi, can rust under there where its hard to see. for bleeding I've got one of those EZ bleed kits, does the job nice
Thanks John, appreciated. Just ordered a flare spanner. I've read elsewhere that it'd be better to keep as much fluid in the system as possible whilst doing the work, rather than draining it all and then doing the work. Is there any mileage in that or is it better to simply drain it entirely and then do the work on it. I'll be doing it over a few evenings / weekends - could a system left empty for a period cause another series of potential problems?
Personally I wouldnt worry too much about trying to keep as much fluid in there or drain it all, just do your work and avoid too much spillage etc. pop a bit of tape over any open ends just to keep your mind at rest
Personally I would do as Rubjohnny says if you don't have an ezi bleed kit get one but if your bleeding it the oldfashion way just with a tube and a jar always keep as much fluid as poss in the system especially the master cylinder. If you are changing rusty steel brake pipes just cut them off next to the union (large pair of side cutters ( snips) are ideal) then use a six sided deep socket on the nipple this will get it off pretty much no matter how rusty the nipple is, as if they are bad a crowsfoot or 12 point spanner will round them off,obviously try the latter methods first.
I've dumped all my brake fluid out, as rubjonny mentioned and easy blead makes light work of bleading (it holds 1 litre brake fluid and replaces all that you drain through the nipples). I use a spare wheel pumped up to 5psi iirc.
Many a happy time with 'easy bleed'. Hate the things with a passion. Best trick I've learned in the last 5 years is to get a supply of disposable medium sized syringes and syringe the master cylinder empty. Saves a lot of mess. Syringes are a consumable though as the fluid attacks the seals Jon
I got some funny looks from the ladies at the local chemist when I asked if I could buy a few syringes. Since then the internet has been invented, which doesn't accuse me of being a drug addict!
I think if you were using a 60cc syringe to inject yourself they were probably amazed you were still alive!.
The ez-bleed things from the likes of Halfords are a bit shit. I bought one of these a while ago to shift an air pocket - works well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS8...TF8&qid=1532770573&sr=8-8&keywords=easy+bleed Worth swapping out bleed nipples for stainless ones too whilst you're there.
