Greetings, dear colleagues! I’m having some issues with the Pierburg 2E-E carb on my Golf Mk2 1.6 PN. I’m suspecting there’s a problem with the choke, because when I unplug it, it either runs at high rpm or stalls. Also the choke motor does a very specific buzzing noise when I turn the ingnition on. Any suggestions ?
2ee isnt very common over here so not so much info on it, though I think EZ_Pete had an SSP for it? some info here: https://www.ruddies-berlin.de/2eecheckGB.htm http://www.automanuals.biz/volkswagen/golf2-jetta/adjusting-the-carburetor-2ee-ecotronic.html
Well, It's been a few months and I'm still tinkering on it and can't seem to get it running right yet. One part that I think works after some testing is the throttle valve actuator, the solenoids are working and the membrane inside doesn't seem to be pierced, but that probably isn't the cause for the unstable idle, because even if I create vacuum for it once I rev it manualy it's still all over the place. Also the secondary chamber doesn't seem to open, the vacuum actuator works but my vacuum gauge doesn't show much at all no matter the rpms. Soon I'll replace the lambda sensor, there's a powerfull smell of unburnt fuel and a lot of black smoke coming out of the exhaust once I rev it (my 1.6TD doesn't smoke nowhere near as much), definitely running very rich. Next on the list I'll replace two of the temperature sensors which I've read on some sources that they can cause this problem, especially the blue one on the coolant outlet on the cylinder head, the other one I think it's for the preheater on the intake manifold.
Update. I’ve changed both the Lambda and the Blue temperature sensor (which displayed nothing on my multimeter, so I assume it was dead) and not much has changed, it still doesn’t keep the revs constant.
I think I’m giving up on the 2E-E for now. Any ideas on how I can convert the car to a Pierburg 2E-2? The carb was bought online and judging by the product code it is of off a 1.6 Passat. What electrical connections need to be adapted? From what I’ve read some components like the throttle actuator solenoid have to be hooked to ignition signal. https://imgur.com/a/9yAq6Tp
only thing you may need for the 2e2 is the inlet manifold, im not sure if it will fit yours. electrically you need ignition live to the heater on the front and the 2 electric valves on the back. the autochoke needs a grey thermoswitch adding, replace the blue ecu sensor with this. the inlet heater will be handled by the existing wiring and sensor. make sure you hook up the vacuum pipework correctly, and add the green ball if you dont have one already: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/1-6-1-8-pierburg-2e2-carb-faq.124945/
If I'm not wrong, the 2E-E does have a heater but it's located in the back next to the fan overrun switch. And about the green vacuum reservoir, first I'll test it without it and if it doesn't run right I might try to adapt a black one from a 1.9 TDI.
you may be right on the heater, i certainly wouldnt know as ive no experience with these green ball prob be ok without see how you go, its just a vacuum reservor
So... It’s been a while, but yesterday I finally managed to mount the 2e2 on the car and the car idles extremely high, most likely because I haven’t hooked the waxstat up. I have no idea how the cooling lines are supposed to be connected to the carb, the diagrams that I’ve found haven’t been of much use. Other than that, the car seems to run much better with it. Also I have a question about the second stage vacuum. Is it supposed to kick in only under load?
These threads really helped me out with my 2E2 problems: https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/pierburg-2e2-stuck-3-point-unit.225888/ and the one rubjonny posted above: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/1-6-1-8-pierburg-2e2-carb-faq.124945/ Without these, and only the sticker under the bonnet and a Haynes, I would have been in vacuum-hose routing hell!
It's been quite a while since I owned a car with a 2e2, but I still have some photos that may help. This one was taken and annotated to describe pulldown unit vacuum connections by the look of it, but you can see most of the coolant hose connections. With a bit of memory involvement, I think there's one hose that comes up from the inlet manifold to the autochoke. Another from the other autochoke connection to the side connection of the waxstat. Then the outlet/downwards connection of the waxstat goes off to the metal water pipe I think? https://www.dropbox.com/s/vjddtge87yrue7t/100_0158.jpg?dl=0
Well after some testing, I’d like to thank everyone for the involvement and helpful tips and useful information. The only problem that I have left is that I’m getting really bad fuel consumption, about 18l/100 kms in the city and black smoke coming out of the exhaust ( the catalytic converter also gets very hot and I can hear it cooling down after I stop the engine).
sounds like its running rich, check autochoke is functioning as it should and you have good coolant flow to it. if you feel the choke hosung it should get very hot to touch and should warm up about as quick as the side hose to the engine block does
Yup, it works normally . That’s with the choke fully open. The choke was opening even without the coolant lines, so I don’t think that’s the issue.
check the ecu coolant temp sensor ar per chart in here: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...ose-and-tune-your-mk2-digifant-gti-8v.124949/ if that checks out try unplugging the lambda sensor see if it runs better without
Lambda? That’s of no use, now that I have the 2E2 on the car. The only use is that I can manually check the fuel mixture using a multimeter.
ah sorry forgot the 2ee is gone. are you sure what car it came from originally, if it was a 1.8 the jets will be wrong
