My 2E-E carb is causing all kinds of problems, when it used to run it ran extremely rich, and randomly stalled (only when car was being driven and the clutch was pressed down, never in neutral), the idle is all over the place, feels down on power, and pretty much every electric connection does nothing when plugged in our out. The ecu is probably fried, and I failed my MOT for emissions. Timing is correct. When i bought the car, the lambda had been cut off conpletely with the probe just threaded in. Connecting the lambda again does nothing. Guessing this carb was given all sorts of primitive emissions technology, which was then all stripped off without a second thought. Cat may be burned through also, if that's possible. Multimeter on the probe end says 0.48 (if correct is REALLY rich) I cleaned the carb by taking everything apart, and now it doesn't start at all. I have my next MOT in a month and it looks like I won't pass. Is swapping to a 2e2 or 2e3 possible? Do i need just the carb or also a new intake manifold? Is there an adapter? Parts and manuals for the 2E-E are veeeeery scarce. Ideally I would like to fix the 2e-e, but I'm feeling kind of hopeless.
If your car is a carb then is no ECU. My opinion is that these carbs are not worth the hassle in trying to fix when they are so old and complicated. I swapped to a Weber carb. It was very straightforward and it starts and runs fine. Others will disagree of course but it's down to how much time and effort (and money) you want to put in.
Not true if the carb is a Pierburg 2E-E. i would tend to agree though, that to change to a 2e2 or 2e3 at this point in time might be a bit 'out of the frying pan, into the fire' compared to the blunt simplicity of a Weber.
another member did it recently, perhaps get in touch. hopefully he's figured out whats wrong with it though https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/pierburg-2e-e-idle-problem.290489/
Yes, I did figure out most of the problems, especially with everyone’s help (Big Thank you for the help) . I still can’t adjust the idle speed and fuel mix. Keep in mind that if you do the conversion, you have to rotate the carb flange 180 degrees, that’s if you don’t want to change the intake manifold. Also, you have to install some spacers on the back of the carb, so that the plate which holds 3 point unit, TTV and solenoid clears the intake manifold.
No conversion needed! Turned out to be a dead lambda sensor. One of the previous owners must have cut off the lambda wires for some reason instead of just replacing the probe. There is also a CO screw on the left underside of the carb, but no mixture or idle screw. Got through my emissions clean, ideally the cat would like to be replaced, but currently there is no need. Ideally I would like to swap to a mechanical carb, but doing that I wouldn't get through emissions during future inspections.