Hello, everyone! It has been quite a while since I switched from the 2E-E to the 2E-2, but I think I’m starting to have more and more problems with the 2E-2, the biggest one being that It’s running very rich, at least from what I think it’s rich mostly when the idle circuit is being used and also the idle is quite high when warm with the throttle plate closed all the way. Other than that it runs pretty well. Could the idle jet be worn out? (I’ve heard that jets can wear out over time) I don’t really think that it has anything to do with it being clean and I’ve checked every orifice with a thin piece of wire to see if there’s any blockage. Also, I’d like to thank everyone, again, for the help that I’ve received in the past! Edit: Also, when Cold I have to hold the choke flap open with a zip tie as it runs horribly rich with it closed, it blows lots of black smoke.
It sounds like you have several issues. If you are having to hold the flap open when cold is completely the opposite to what should be happening? It should be closed when cold and open when warmed up. Is it manual or auto choke? Are you sure the jets are the right size for your engine? What did the carb come from and what have you put it on? Have you gone through the correct set up procedure for balancing the throttle position and mixture? Is the timing correct, this can make a difference?
Test the choke pulldown unit if you haven't already. There's a 'how to' about this somewhere on here that I wrote a million years ago.
The Carb has autochoke and it appears to be working fine, it just runs very rich with choke closed and that means that I have to force it open even when cold. I think the jets are correctly sized for my 1.6 PN engine, as the carb is off of a 1.6 Passat B2 which I think is pretty much identical. I don’t think that I can balance the mixture and throttle position as the idle mixture screw doesn’t seem to do much or it does something, but it runs just slightly less rich. And about the pulldown, it does seem to open the choke flap when it gets vacuum. Could a Vacuum leak cause my problems? Would a vacuum testing gauge be of use?
It isn't working fine then as you shouldn't have to do that. It's important to make sure your idle and mixture are set right. There is a procedure you have to go through and it will take a while to do it properly. Alternatively, bin it and fit a weber manual choke - much better
Well… I don’t think I’ll buy a Weber any time soon, maybe if I find a second hand one, which is very unlikely as they are hard to find in my country. And I cannot adjust the idle mixture at all, just the throttle setting. Other than that, the car runs really well. The only fix that could apply to me is the vacuum leak, according to one manual, but that doesn’t really explain the rich condition.
go back and try everything in this guide top to bottom: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/1-6-1-8-pierburg-2e2-carb-faq.124945/ high idle often down to faulty waxstat, and check the autochoke actually works i.e. look at the spring inside make sure its in good nick, heat it up and make sure it actually moves the bi-metallic spring. also check pulldown unit as above when running the choke flap on the top shouldnt be able to close all the way as the pulldown will hold it slightly open even if you try and force it all the way closed. If everything on the outside is definitely working, then get the haynes carb manual from my signature link and go over all the more advanced adjustments on the linkages underneath. if all that checks out buy a refurb kit and open it up, while there make sure it has the right jets in it, check floats actually float etc.
Sorry for the late response. I’ve had some problems with the waxstat, but I’ve fixed it, it was a bit clogged and coolant wasn’t getting through. The autochoke is working perfectly too along with the pulldown unit, it does hold the choke flap slightly open. The float should be ok too as I’ve tested it when I replaced the needle valve. The carb just keeps feeding quite a lot of fuel at idle, otherwise it runs really well.
Any ideas if the idle jet from the 2E-3 fits on the 2E-2? I know they are mounted in different places and that the jet on the 2E-3 is in one piece (fuel and air).
That’s kind of what I thought, maybe I should buy a set, just because the ones for the 2E-3 are the only ones that I can find, 2E-2 ones are nowhere to be found.
I decided to take the carb apart yesterday and I’ve noticed that the main jets were mixed up, but that still doesn’t affect the idle speed. So, I looked at one of the more common problems, the enrichment valve. Immediately after I took the membranes out, the part with the rubber o-ring fell out of the shaft or maybe it has fallen out way before I opened it up. Could that be the problem?
Not sure if they work similar the 2e-2 and the 2e-3 always had idle issues with my 2e-3 had to clean out the air mix needle that sits on the top. And takeout the enrichment screw at the bottom left and blast out loads of crap, but you'll probably need it setting up again, One thing that did have an impact was the car mounting flange not sure if the 2e-2 has one probably does. But if the seal is warped/worn it will cause running issues, this can be normally overlooked some gasket sealant usually worked but my 2e-3 was running high and lumpy due to an air leak through the gasket. .. Probably no help at all but you never know.
Update I put the enrichment valve back on the car, I probably forgot to hammer the end of the pin. That still didn’t fix the issue. Could be because I only cleaned the top half of the carb, I’ll try cleaning the other half when I have time, maybe that fixes the issue. The rubber flange on mine is in good shape I replaced it last summer and when mounting I also used a tiny drop of gasket maker. To me, the 2E-2 just looks like a more complicated version of the 2E-3, just because of the fact that it has more vacuum lines.
if everything on the carb checks out as per my guide, the next step is download the haynes 2e2 carb manual from my signature and go through that. it goes into detail on how to check and reset the various mechanisms inside the carb
