daNpy - Golf MKII Group H

Picked up the milled flywheel yesterday. Only 4,5 kg now



I've seen the supports for 2.0 engines, they are different indeed. If it is going to be problematic, I'll try the spacer option, otherwise the engine mount itself also needs to be replaced. And those are all hard shored already.

Now I am going to figure out in which order I am going to rebuild everything.

 

A while ago I read on this forum that an oil pan gasket with baffle plate (like this) does not work with a steel oil pan and you have to apply additional sealer.
On my Golf I noticed some leakage after driving on the gearbox side. I didn't find any oil around the crankseal, so I reccon it will be the gasket for the pan.

Can I use Wynn's black gasket maker for this job?

 

Hmm, both sides? They were talking about just the pan, not the engine side as the steel pans are 'ribbled'.

Anyway, order new parts this week and they arrived yesterday. The pressure bearing for the clutch, directly mounted yesterday evening (2 mins).
The wheelbearings, mounted this week. Took some extra care in pressing them in gently, all worked out and no play this time
And a temperature switch with M14 x 1,5 thread, also switches at 95-90. I will connect coolant hoses from rad to engine with an adapter which containes a threaded hole of ... M14x1,5. That's also sorted.

Today I worked on the ducting for the rad and oil cooler. When there is no engine in, you can work from the inside-out which is way better than having to take the bumper on and off hundreds of times to modify the parts behind it.



I also made a modification to allow the radiator to stand up more straight, currently the pin of the aerocatch is in the way. The holder will be replaced for one that is mounted higher so the rad should be able to come underneath. I do hope this means I don't have to modify the lower supports to allow that angle.

 

I am starting to assemble the engine and car back together. Fitted the flywheel and clutch, then the gearbox on.
When trying to mount the assembly to the subframe I ran into some small issues; the custom heat shield for the steering rack is interfering with the exhaust so much it had to be removed (previously it was tight, but fitting).
Also the gearbox ran into the lower strutbar I have mounted and damaged it



I increased the height of the gearbox support using shims for now, I will have an alu plate milled at work to solve it. As I already notived the engine also was inclined in the car with the 2Y gearbox. (1 to 2 cm lower at the gearbox side). Is the gearbox support for 2 liters different than for 1.8 16vs?

 

I'll see if the guys at work kan make a 15 mm adapter plate to put in between. We already made the cardboard example

 

Apperantly it is normal for the 2 liters to be inclined in the car (gearbox lower) as I already noticed last year with the 2Y. I never did with the KR though, that was straight as far as I remember.

This 02A gearbox is coded CDA and appears to have a larger (and stronger) diff housing. (It is frikkin heavy too). For the Golf G60 (with 02A gearbox), the lower strutbar is a bit different also: https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/725552_x800.webp

 

Too bad it has pressed into my lower strutbar then, it is coated and that is not easy to remove or repair. As said I will try to make something to move the gearbox support upwards a bit.
Hopefully before the weekend, as I want to fit the engine in on Saturday.

 

Allright, fitted the engine in this morning.
As John more or less already predicted it didn't fit quite well.
Initially, the front beam was way off. The rear gearbox support is longer, rotating the engine in the bay, causing the front to misalign.



We then extended the rear engine support by 10 mm, the farmers way:



In the end the front was still off. With the front mount bolt removed, we could puch the front beam into place. Still, modifications need to be made.
I can either adapt the front engine support, pros: Cheap, easy to do; cons: engine is still slightly misalaligned in the bay
Or upgrade to the Golf 3 rear engine mount, pros: better fitment (hopefully!), cons: need to buy the support arm and a decent motorsport engine mount, which will be expensive. Risk is the front is still a bit off as I understood, but in X not Y.



Any thoughts?

Edit: Does a Golf 3 rear engine mount even fit? Or do I then also need the Golf 3 subframe?
The Vibratechnics rear RH support is quite different.

 

So, question. What can be removed and what can be welded additionally to improve stiffness?

 

Other subframe and motor support are in, problem is exactly the same. Looks like I need a new front beam, with the engine support on the right place (and then start the modification all over again....)
I didn't extend the rear arm by 10 mm yet, I guess that would also help. But in the end, it doesn't seem worth it to mount the 6K1 subframe for now.

 

Live blog part #4!

I extended the rear support arm (1H0199354K) with 10 mm. Suddenly the front beam lined up and was mountable. For the ultimate test I unscrewed the top screw of the front engine mount and fiddled with the engine so it could set itself. The screw doesn't go back, but it ain't a big difference, definately less as in the picture above.
Now I am curious which mount will be 10 mm longer.

 

What if I modify the rear gearbox support?

The cast alu bracket seems to hold the weight, the thin steel bar not. That one will just prohibit rotations around the Z-axle.
If I copy the cast alu bracket but the place the mounting hole 15 mm forwards, the engine will rotate backwards. So no extended motor bracket necessary, which increases the forces on that bracket. Also no disadvantage of the motor moving 15 mm forward from the front axle.

The bracket will be made from steel and therefore heavier, but I think that is less as problem as moving the engine forward.
What other problems might occur then?
The drive shafts will be in a different angle, but hopefully not touch anything or have rotational issues?

 

This morning I was completely lost. I measured the distances from the upper-rear gearbox to engine bolt to the mounting hole on the brackets on both the 2Y and 02A gearbox. The distances were the same, also in both methods. See attached picture.
This meant neither the rear motor bracket or the gearbox bracket was the same, so what the h#ll was the problem then?

The only place that remained, was the front. I dismounted the engine for the 4th time this weekend and removed the front cross member. I compared it to my original one, and it's the same. Then I removed the starter and removed the bracket itself. I compared it, as good as possible, to the original bracket... a difference, being small, was very well visible!
Another thing is that the hole in the 02A box is more or less round, where the others are slotted...
This could be the problem then, as I've changed the engine with both the original KR and 9A with 2Y box several times, and seriously never ran into this problem.
To add a few mm to the problem, it is possible that the engine mount itself, which is located in a slotted hole, was not positioned as far to the middle as possible.

I fitted the modified bracket I made (2Y to 02A) and maybe will put the engine back tonight quickly, so I can see if this really is solved. That would also mean I never noticed that the engine is not straight in the car all the time......................

 

Well, that also wasn't it. Before mounting I noticed the modified front bracket wasn't the same angle, the cross member was tilted backwards and that was never going to fit.

So I mounted my 2Y bracket. And then I got completely lost, as I was back at square one.
Same rear RHS engine mount. Same front gearbox mount. Rear LHS gearbox mount is measured to be identical to the 2Y. And still the front cross member is of by more than 2 cm sideways.

I am looking for reasons not to put back the 2Y gearbox...

 

How do you mean exactly? It would imply the gearbox has to be removed, right?

Yes I did, the front mount is as much to the middle as possible.

But someone on another forum noticed on this picture below that the rear engine mount possibly can be mounted the other way around? The bolt holding the black pieces together is now behind the center of the support... when rotation is possible this will come forward quite a lot!

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