[MK2 16v KR] rought idle

Discussion in '16-valve' started by 1984bryan, Jan 30, 2023.

  1. 1984bryan New Member

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    Hello,

    I have a 1989 GTI 16v Match

    I rebuilt the car, and I restarted recently*

    It runs well, starts well, but idle is not clean, it looks it has mis fire, and make vibration
    I timed ignition to 6° BTDC
    Some observation:
    -no effect when unplug the red/black wire near coil
    -no effect when unplug vacum hose to ignition module

    I tried to search where this red/black wire goes, but I have problem with documentation
    Mine is as this one : https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...-scans-corrado-golf-2-19-1g-passat-31.277245/
    on the CE1 "wiring diagram for ignition system 1.8 16v", the wire stops to n°37, but can't find continuation of n°37


    thank you for help


    *https://golfgti16smatch.wordpress.com/
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2023
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the red/black wire at the coil goes to the isv module pin 17/1 '37' on the diagram refers to the circuit track number, these are written along the bottom of the diagrams left to right. so in this case 2 pictures down from the one you're looking at, up to the ISV module which is hidden behind the centre console :)

    check the black wire to the module has ignition live, and the brown/white should be earthed to the cylinder head
     
  3. 1984bryan New Member

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    All right, I was looking for another '37' label
    ok, I will remove the center console, and check that

    for information, when unplug ISV with engine cold, engine stalls, when engine hot: engine barely runs
     
  4. 1984bryan New Member

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    Hi John,
    thank you for your answer

    I worked on the car
    ISV module brown wire wired to cylinder head=> OK
    black wire live with ignition =>OK
    then, I tested all wires from this module (I rebuilt the loom, you can see on the link I posted )
    Everything OK, expect the red/black wire: wrong connection at the 6 pins connector behind fuse box=> should be the main problem, now corrected
    while I was at it, I tested wiring of other components
    the trottle => switching OK
    pressure change=> wiring OK and vaccum with mouth OK
    ISV wiring OK
    cold start injection wiring OK
    I tuned again the timing, and when unplug the ref/black wire, there is a rpm change
    Now, there are still some misfire, but less

    Also, I tested the cold start injection dynamicaly: engine running: injector not connected, engine hot, pressure change shorted => no voltage at injector connection. After some readings, it seems this would happen only when engine cold, can you confirm?

    Also noticed vacum circuit is a bit leacky on the pressure drop, and pressure change sensor side,
    When engine running and unplug the vacuum from ignition control unit, no effect (everything else connected)

    to have nearly no mis fire, I have to set reachness to 1.8, and idle screw is at the lowest position at 1000rpm+. I think it is not normal
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2023
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the 5th injector thermoswitch will cut the path to ground once the engine is warm and/or the engine has been cranking for a long time so if you were probing for voltage across the 5th injector 2 pin plug this would be correct yes

    with your high idle, if everything else is confirmed good possibly you have a leak at the air shrouded injector system, if you fitted new injectors without top hats for example. you can test this by pinching the vacuum tube from the breather pipe to the inlet/5th injector housing
     
  6. 1984bryan New Member

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    thank you, I will check that

    could you clarify this please?
    yes injectors have been changed
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    This is the air shrouded type with 'top hat' as we call it :lol:
    fuel-injector-k-jet-m10-thread-bosch-mk1-mk2-golf-jetta-caddy-scirocco-t25-audi-80-17387-p.png

    And non shrouded type:
    c335a99c-6981-4a14-aaf1-218b594a6722_1.dd5287ec1bb373da33bd2adcd3a7c3e6.jpeg
     
  8. watercooled Forum Member

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    RJ all indicators are an air leak/s and I agree but a really good afternoon spent can be rewarding in restoring air control, have had this so many times and recently with my ABF conversion ,transplanted kr CIS on to it and found my problems with the old KR came with that ...makes sense.
    Replaced a lot of bad vacuum/air hoses in this process and leaking air mixture screw seal and bingo with a quick start smooth cold start a great warm idle,the old kr wasn't great but the engine was about to die and terminated on the roadway just before I got up the driveway to my new place.
     
  9. watercooled Forum Member

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    Thanks RJ ,good info,which one is most common to KR CIS ?,cheers.
     
  10. 1984bryan New Member

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    yes, I have shrouded injectors
    [​IMG]
    I pinched this hose, engine, stalled

    [​IMG]
    I sprayed many aeas in the engine bay with brake cleaner and I couldn't hear rpm increase

    the fifh injector works dynamically (either shorting the valve + increae throttle) or throlleling only, even engine hot after some minutes idling, when is the thermo-calo contact supposed to switch ?

    measuring my rpm with strobo lamp, I have 970rpm (still with idle screw at minimum and 1.8% CO)

    I sprayed all air circuit with brake cleaner, and I couldn't hear rpm change, also at inlet, and no more, probably idle stabilisation working (I am more used to diesel these years)

    sorry, I can't make picture works, they display when I edit the post, but needs click on final version
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2023
  11. 1984bryan New Member

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    thank you, maybe I have to check idle screw seal
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the hose I mention to pinch is the thinner one which is connected to the block breather hose on the front of the engine block, this is what feeds the air shrouding system. but so long as you have the right injectors and renewed the plastic injector inserts along with the square profile seal thaty goes between the inert and the inlet that side of things should all be ok

    with the images the problem is some image sites dont like the way we have to re-host the images so they work on here properly, or just wont allow hot linking. Once you have a few posts you can upload images directly
     
  13. 1984bryan New Member

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    I think it is the good one, but you can click the "wrong" icon of my picture, it actually works

    In case of a leak, the engine should rev faster with spraying it with flammable, right?
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep, its just the hot linking direct which falls over for some hosts

    if theres an air leak spraying wd40 or whatever will make the idle change yes. if theres a leak past the air shrouding system thats harder to track down as its just pulling too much air in via the breather so spraying WD over the injectors wont show you that

    but yeah, if you've redone the inserts and injector seals etc no need to worry about the air shrouding
     
  15. 1984bryan New Member

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    thank you,
    what it the air shrouding please?
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the air shrouding system allows a small amount of air to flow past the tips of the injectors to improve atomisation and so ecomomy etc. what people did a while back was buy new mercedes brass injectors because they were dirt cheap. these work fine but dont have the 'top hats' and so gives you a large air leak past the injectors through the air shrouding system, the simple fix here was to just block it off, no problem.

    in your case, this isn't a worry as you've rebuilt everything and used the right injectors. heres the page from the SSP handy if you can read German or can be bothered to type it all into google translate :lol:
    Clipboard01.jpg
     
  17. 1984bryan New Member

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    thank you for your documents
     

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