Had something very similar on the Mk3. Changed the temp sender and it sorted the problem. Probably worth the 20 or so quid and 10 mins under the bonnet to illiminate it from your enquiries.
Thanks monkeyzoo I have not tested the temp sensor, as i swaped them around and the temp gauge worked on all three, so i assumed it was fine, it still could be faulty i guess! Is the temp sensor the top one for the isv and wur etc? (i can never remember) cheers
Is there an ISV on a Mk1 1.8i K-jet? How do you know if the WUR is stuffed? I have alot of the same problems discussed above. Ive taken mine apart, cleaned it, put it back together, still no better, yet it looks as good as new, (aprt from a bit of crud on the gauze) and it doesnt look like there much that can go wrong with it.
Soory but what does ISV stand for and i believe you can also get a switch to go with it where can you get both from etc.. My problem happened over night and am told that this solved the problem for someone else on here so im gona give it a try, sick of hearing its my bloody injectors yes i know their leaking and no it didnt do it before today cops
FergusT - is it the same engine as the MK2 16V? if so yes, it's in front of the dizzy ans should vibrate when ign. is on! Only way to tell if the wur is ok or not is to test it with a fuel pressure gauge - good garage should sort this out for you! copper - To be honest it sound like your injectors are leaking, did it do it before? Evil i know, sorry could no resist that! Anyway - ISV - Idle stabilization valve, the switch is on the throttle body and is activated when the accelerator is off and the metal bit touches it to kick in the ISV! (it also activates the over run valve)to save a few mpg The isv has a module which is behind the center console (inside the car) like a big relay, these are prone to go and can cause all sorts of problems! change this first - 20 second hand or 300 +VAT from stealers, the choice is yours
Marco, your C0 is too low then like mine then and Also your throttle body is clogged up, take it off and make sure the idle screw hole throught the body and the hole through to the screw is clean as a whistle! I am guessing that this gives false readings everywhere, mine seems to be fine now! btw - did you fit the merc injectors after - any good?
Hello My 16v is being odd. Basically at first i started it up, no probs. I pulled away in 2nd and it sputtered and felt rough. Did it again same, i pulled to a stop and the idle drop to about 500rpm before stalling gently. I cleaned the dist plug and the lead ends and it seemed better, but pulling to a stop it stalled gently, then was fine after. Didn't do it on the way home. But it may happen again. Any ideas as to what is up? Ta
I found out why my 16v hunts and surges until it's warm today Wasn't even looking as to why really... Pushing the wiring loom out of the way so I can refit the gearbox, I notice a wire broken, pull the tape off around it and both the wires for the thermo time switch (temp sender for WUR/cold start) are broken, not only are the wires broken, one of them has pulled out of the multi plug too. Luckily I ripped some of the engine loom out of my old valver before I scrapped it, so can fix my problem I have been getting a lot of overfuelling type black smoke on hard acceleration and the exhaust is always as "black as your hat" this is probably why!
So that's what it does, this is the only plug i have not removed as it awkward to do as i think it's stuck My car only runs fine when the wur plug is disconnected, plug it in and it runs bad and mpg is right down! got a feeling it could be the thermotime plug!! I have done/cleaned, checked, replaced and set everything on the car except this! What is the check for the wires? is it resitance i should look for or just voltage?
have you tried the three wires inside the distributor to see if they are ok, as i had problems with my golf. The wires were old and making a bad connection, problem is the wires are short. I ended up getting another dizzy and its been fine ever since. Might be worth a try if you can borrow another dizzy to try. Only thing is mines the 8v so might be different. Edited by: cookie26
I have the problem with a lazy idle control valve. Does anyone know if I'm better off getting a G60 one rather than the standard 16v one as I have modded the engine alot?
Not sure mate, i think an isv is an isv? Well just to add my experience to this thread, i have found my problem! It was that Thermotime switch, or rather the connector -broken wires which activates the 5th injector (cold start) It seemed fine when i changed the 3 head sensors for about a day, then it was the same, but then i realised i was moving the loom when fitting it and making the contact good again on the thermotime switch connection! Another mystery solved
Hail everyone... Just went through the last two pages of the topic... I would like to clear something out if you permit... The warm up regulator in effect (I won't go into details), controls how rich the air/fuel mixture is by modulating the resistance to the movement of the airflow sensor. It has some thermo-sensitive materials (a bimetallic strip to be precise), and to make a long story short, the warmer it gets the leaner the mixture gets, up to a point where it stabilises. The plug is the heater for the bimetallic strip. Disconnecting it only delays the inevitable, i.e. the WUR getting warm and the mixture getting leaner (in fact, not rich enough). Normallym the WUR takes 2 minutes to get to "operating temperature". Disconnected, it should take 15 (Greece ) to 30 minutes to warm up! On a well-tuned car, disconnecting the plug should have the following symptoms: Bad idle for like 10-15 minutes Bad fuel economy, especially cold Worse performance after something like 5-10 minutes identical operation after like 15-30 minutes and onward. If the car is tuned on the leaner side,reverse all of the above. Disconnecting the plug should correct idle, give better performance, et.c. I hear you have a K-Jetronic guru there that tunes the WUR in England, myself, I had to do it on my own, as it is not difficult at all as long as you have a pressure gauge. Anyway,lowering the control pressure to the lowest point in factory settings (40 or50 PSI, check your Haynes or Bentley to be sure) and then tuning the CO to 1-2%is safe (being within factory parameters) and should keep your performance a hair's breadth from optimal. Optimal tuning would need a dyno (and probably your guru, Vinceis it?). The worse thing that can happen that way is bad idle for .5-1 minute when the mixture might be overrich. Bye! Edit: "by modulating the resistance to the movement of the airflow sensor housing" Where did THAT come from??? Edited by: Quasar
good stuff Quasar! I just did the above on mine and it has made a world of difference, aprart i still don't have a good cold start! - injectors to be checked next! As all cars are different i agree, a dyno is the only way to get the car right, some might need higher pressures than others! "The worse thing that can happen that way is bad idle for .5-1 minute when the mixture might be overrich" sounds like my problem - if i leaned off the mixture would this cure it and if i did what performance would it have on the car once warm? Cheers
How dya get the injectors out? I was told that you just pull em out, but I'm gonna snap off the metal pipe from the injector if I pull any harder! Do you have to undo anything before you start pulling them out? My problem could well be dribbling or otherwise knackered injectors.
A bit of force may well be needed, if they are in bad, take the top half of the manifold off, you can get a claw hammer in on them then, so i have been told!
i worried too until i had actually pulled one out myself. they're really are just held in by rubber o-rings. if they are stiff then spray a load of wd40 on them and come back on 20mins. should come out a lot easier then.
Hey, thanks for the thumbs up ! So... About the cold star matter... See if you can get away with a nice warm idle at about 0.5% CO, it MIGHT help cold idle a bit, on the other hand it might not... Personally, I just ignore it. It is just a total of 5-10 mins a day after all (in Greece that is, as the engine takes quite a bit to cool down here )! As everybody else already pointed out, about the injectors, and to put it bluntly, just PULL THE BUGGERS OUT . No trick there... The only thing keeping them is fear of breaking something ! I have seen a little blade kind of thing securing them at a few cars, but it would be obvious if it existed, it is just a metal blade kind of thing that, well, keeps the injectors in place. But I don't thing VW uses them...
