This was a brilliant read, top work. I was going through it and thinking 'I know this car from somewhere', then I saw the pic of you with the exhaust in bed. Really nice build thread mate
Thanks very much mate appreciate that even though it feels like it'll never be finished sometimes! Did a vid of the stub axle conversion also.
I'd say save yourself the trouble J. C! Been working on it most of the day and got this far. I'm getting no fuel, 10.2V at the lift pump but nothing at the main pump.
I did reply to your thread on PH - In the picture of you checking voltage that brown (ground) wire looks bared? Or is it just fluff? Both pumps should have feed from relay spliced together IIRC so must be a ground issue? That brown wire?
Cheers GVK I saw that. I'm on baby duties until later on but will hopefully grab an hour or two. Had another detailed reply on my RR thread which I'll C+P here. I'm a complete novice/numpty when it comes to wiring so this is always going to be a ball ache, especially when considering how butchered the loom is in general. See post below from Pegwie ''Check the continuity of the red/yellow power wires from the pumps to pin E/14 on the fusebox plug end (both pumps share same power feed that splits up, so should have continuity between both pumps & E/14) (Look up CE1 A2 resource for a good fusebox layout). You should be getting continuity, if not you have a broken wire most likely. Given that you're getting 10V at the lift pump (which is too low either way), I presume E/14 is giving power. So can assume fuel pump relay is ok. But a quick check, remove fuel pump relay and bridge spades 30 & 87 on the fusebox, fuel pumps should come on constantly. It basically goes like this: Fuel pump relay is triggered by your ignition control unit, relay feeds power to pin E/14 on fusebox (12V feed) E/14-- (red/yellow wire) --> T2 plug, after this it splits red/yellow power feed to the lift pump & under body pump (Earth) - To D/22 --(brown wire) --> T2 plug, after this it splits the brown earth wire to the lift pump & under body pump. Also check that D/22 earth wires for the pumps are getting continuity to battery -ve. Let me know your findings so can delve deeper if it's not a bad earth or broken 12v feed wire''
all good info except the bit about the earth, the brown wire with spade from D/22 is the main earth wire for the fusebox plus the earth from the wiper motor is also tapped into it. fuel pump brown earth wire is connected to a white spade 4 way block near the fusebox which is hanging off the fat brown from the battery negative. This block also has a wire from the dash loom and the fusebox earth from D/22 in it as well. out the back of this block is a wire which goes off to the claw another way to rule out fuel relay is rather than putting a jumper wire in the fusebox you can swap the 17/18 relay into the fuel relay socket this should make the fuel pump come on with ignition. if you get better voltage at the 2 pin plug doing this that tells you fuel relay is bad. if not its wiring or battery problem
Well I went for the simplest option first and swapped the relay, on examining it you can tell the spade looks more than a little suspect. And it worked! Unmistakable sound of a priming fuel pump, just as soon as it started getting power though, the smell of 99 octane started filling my lungs.
Ok, little update, turns out relay is fine, theres just no power coming to the relay, I got the fuel pump to prime by bridging the pins on the fuse box with some wire and it fired into life! Albeit briefly. Timing is all over the place and I've probably got vacuum leaks. It was a good moment dispite all that though. No vid or photo unfortunately so here is a photo of my fuse box.
swap the 18 relay into the fuel relay socket. if fuel pump comes on with ignition then either the ecu isn't turning on properly or theres an issue with the wire from the ecu to the fusebox. if car starts and runs like this then ecu is obviously working there is a 2 pin spade plug in the scuttle where ecu loom plugs to main car side which can corrode so start there, its the red/yellow wire which ecu uses to trigger the relay. if you swap the 67 back in and switch ignition on, earth the car side of the red/yellow wire and fuel pumps should run till you remove the wire again your fusebox looks a bit rough, but if its just dust should be alright. main issue if its all dirty or corroded inside causing poor contacts
Thanks very much for this mate and sorry for the belated reply, things have been dicey lately as I and many others have been made redundant from JLR. However things are looking up now job wise again and with the car too. . Only took 4 years the car has finally started and is even idling ok. Couldn't wipe the smile from my face for the rest of the day. There was a wire that had broken off leading to the ignition coil that I didn't even see because it was inside the loom wrapping that prevented the main pump from priming. All good though I ended up seeking help from @RetroWiringServices who even rewired the audio system for me.