1987 16v mk2 golf resto - paint is on!

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Coakers, Jul 27, 2016.

  1. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Was fun though[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2018
  2. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Woohoo lol

    I have a KR bottom end at the workshop if needed? Free!!

    And rebuilt KR cylinder head for sale if needed.
     
  3. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    I may take you up on that KR bottom end. Any excuse for a road trip. I do have Rye1991's old ABF (the one he used before he went vr6) waiting patiently to be fired up again Doesnt look this clean now though. Where are you located? [​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
     
  4. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    That engine has certainly seen better days! Good luck on the potential rebuild.
     
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  5. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Not mk2 related but hey I'll share anyway. Bought a new daily. My Monde--- I mean my new x-type. Yes its the 2.0 diesel. I dont care because its fuel efficent and quiet (i must be getting old). But i can haul more mk2 parts around than ever! Beats the megane and my missus's WOEFUL Peugeot 308 (i dislike that car).[​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
     
  6. Joehough

    Joehough Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks the cost of rack is putting me off, so wondering if diy refurb is feasible. I have spent initial budget on unexpected items (new struts / springs and full exhaust) so have to wait till April to raid pension fund again!
     
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  7. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Funny how time can run away from you. It has been an 'interesting' 6 months. I bought an Xtyoe estate as a daily, which decided to breakdown on the busiest roundabout in town at the busiest time if day. Wasted a month chasing my tail around what I can only describe as a delicately sensitive delphi injection system.

    Then bought a Berlingo which I do like except I needed to replace the front suspension, wheel bearings and clutch cable.

    However the precious, I mean erm Ellen has always been at the back of my mind, like a some kind of petulant child that wont leave me alone. I really did get overwhelmed with it really (I'll never be able to finish it) were the general thought processess.

    BUT, I just started doing little bits again and it has recently slowly began gathering momentum. You may recall I bought a POR 15 kit.



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    The metal prep. It is required to keep the metal wet so every 10 minutes or so I reapplied this, took about 30 minutes until it got a required etch.

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    Then 2 coats of por15. No brush strokes are evident and this is without the chassis black top coat so I've decided to keep it as is.

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    Next on the agenda are the hubs. I bought G60 Hubs, calipers and carriers as they carry a 280mm disc over the 256mm standard gti disk. And since this is running an ABF with around 40-50 bhp more over the KR it is only sense to beef up the stopping power too.

    The hubs stripped down and derusted using a variety of wire wheels drill/dremel attachements.

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    You can really see the etching effect of the metal prep here.

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    I used a dremel with a polishing mop attachment to clean the bore of the hub after this process.

    [​IMG]

    Then we get into the fun stuff. I'll just kick back and watch my 93 year old grandad do all the leg work.

    One of our new toys. Love this thing, the press i mean but yea i love my grandad too. Its very satisfying pressing in new bearings.

    [​IMG]

    And outer hubs.

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    And for my next job. Treating the floor pan. Even though its etch primed i have noticed a layer of surface rust. So its all getting stripped back and treated with the Bilt Hamber range. Hydrate 80 rust killer/converter. Electrolux high zinc primer. Dynax s50 cavity wax. Dynax UC underbody wax and Bilt Hambers seam sealer. I have also bought their epoxy mastic for sealing the floor.
     
  8. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Dont know why my images arent showing. [:s] I'm using imgBB as my hosting site.
     
  9. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    All them hours on my back scraping underseal and old paint are beginning to pay off. Just about finished with that horrible job. Ive rust treated the back of the car and both rear wheel arches with Hydrate 80.

    Marvellous stuff. This is the colour as soon as you pour it into a suitable container.

    [​IMG]


    I do apologise for the rubbish photos (this is the right rear wheel arch.

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    And after rust treatment.

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    Same with the spare wheel well area

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    Gathering momentum!
     
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  10. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Done the rest tonight. 4 hour stint and i dare say I've finished stripping back the floor pan.

    [​IMG]
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    I've stripped about 95% of it. Theres exhaust tunnel which is already etch primed, i dont need to do that and there is the verticsl area in front of the wheel well where the underseal is caked on so think and is in such an awkward area I'm going to leave it as is. Theres only so much i can do on my back. Thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
     
  11. jmsheahan CGTI Graphics Designer

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    Nice work, certainly some graft going in to this! Bilt Hamber stuff is the bomb! Keep it up :thumbup:

    Did a guy called Ben used to own this? Got a vague recollection of the car from years ago.
     
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  12. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Thanks mate [:D] i found that doing any little job whenever I have spare time just helps with motivation. This car has had 13 previous owners so ita anyones guess. I did try and get some of the histroy but i lost contact with the previous owner. He did tell me its been all around Europe apparently. Shame it wasnt looked after, if it wasn't for spotting the original colour i would of walked away. lol
     
  13. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Epoxy Mastic applied. I've spent a lot of hours on my back doing this job [8-}]. Stripped as much as I can back to bare metal. Degreased and treated with Hydrate 80. Then treated with epoxy mastic. In retrospect, i should of seamed sealed first before this stage.

    [​IMG]

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    The second image is where it was 7 months ago. I've also stripped and paintef the subframe with POR 15. [:D]

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  14. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Spent a full 6 hours at the unit stripping the bay tonight 20:00 - 2:00. All the rust issues were already dealt with so I didn't need to worry about uncovering anything. Ive primed it with Electrox, its different from other primers because it... 'produces a surface film containing over 90% metallic zinc, once cured the tightly packed zinc particles establish an electronically conductive pathway enabling cathodic protection of the underlying steel'... Fancy ey?

    I've got to wait 96 hours to apply the top coat though. Picking that up tomorrow. Also just spent a fair wack on parts.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Bit more done today. Put the subframe back together. Feels very good to start assembling things again.

    Heres a before and after on the subframe. The monza blue anti-roll bar has got to be worth at least a 15bhp increase right??

    [​IMG]

    Also cleaned the fuel tank inside and out. I poured some degreser in the tank, swirled it around multiple times, drained it, repeated the process 3 timea and then just used water and drained that until it ran clear. A pressure washer and heavy duty decreaser is your friend. I'm going to put some petrol in the tank after its dried and then drain that just to reduce the risk of contaminants in the tank as much as possible


    [​IMG]
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  16. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    I've just done a bit more tonight.

    [​IMG]

    Used this on just about every cavity I could find.

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    Withdrawing while spraying (ooo err) provides good coverage for inside the cavity. Also going in a circular or figure eight pattern helps.

    Then seam sealing. In retrospect I wish I used a stiffer bristled brush. This stuff was potent!. Way to ruin my lovely black floor pan.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Gave myself a boost tonight.

    [​IMG]

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    It aint perfect, bit patchy here and there and theres the odd run but for my first attempt at spray painting of anything of a considerable size and I'm rather happy with it.

    1. Primer - Electrox
    2. Wet sanded with 600 grit.
    3. Tack clothed
    4. 2 Base Coats - Monza Blue LD5Y
    5. 3 Layers of lacquer
     
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  18. copeidge

    copeidge Forum Member

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    Lovely job mate! very similar to what I've been doing on mine recently!

    not fun work but very rewarding :)
     
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  19. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Cheers dude, I've been following your car for a long time now so I appreciate that.

    Been moving away from the shell and started rebuilding my calipers, I was always going to send these off to be done professionally but I saw a few videos and read several guides and thought it doesn't look that difficult.

    One of the good guides can be found here

    https://www.clubgti.com/forums/inde...-pictures-page-1-completed-18-10-2013.265860/

    Here's a video here of the dismantling of the rear calipers.



    The fronts are surprisingly simple in comparison. A couple of seals, a piston and thats it.

    The fronts first.
    An airline in the bleed nipple is a tried and tested way of blowing the piston out.
    [​IMG]

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    The pistons are not in the best condition.

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    I only bought a seal kit but I'll probably buy the replacement pistons at some point.

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    Bores are ok, this is after ive degreased with gunk then petrol.

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    Mothers mag polish and dremel later.
    Plus further degreasing
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    I forget to take anymore but it is literally a couple of seals, slicone spray and its back together, I've de-rusted and painted them.

    The rears.

    I didnt have a caliper rewind tool but an angle grinder locking tool works perfectely

    [​IMG]

    The inside of the piston
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    The most fiddly part of this job is the circlips. Easy enough to get out but a pain to get in.

    These are the shims and a bearing thats in the shaft.
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    Then screw the shaft back in to dislodge it from the piston.

    [​IMG]

    Then its a case of reassembly with the new pistons and seals. I didnt go for the full rebuild as i couldnt get the inner circlip out. As these were in perfect working order before they were removed I'm confident they will be fine.

    Same derusting and paint. Job done-ish.

    [​IMG]

    Need new slider pins yet.
     
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  20. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Progress has been slow lately, another change of job and me and my fiancee finding out we are having our first baby together has but a dampner on the build but then it gives me a good excuse to do as much as I can before the due date. Not many things come before old cars but kids are one of the few.

    So my back yard hackery slotted nut removal tools, spring compressors, a screwdriver and a one hammer blow. Job done.

    [​IMG]

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    Threw the subframe, servo and replacement master cylinder on and the front suspension. Felt very good to start putting things back together.
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    But when it came to the rear axle I dont know what I've done wrong but the holes just dont line up. The only thing I can think of is that I've not pressed the axle bushes in far enough.

    [​IMG]
     

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