1988 Gti 16v Rough Running Issues - Found a couple of things - Need help!

Glad to hear it's almost there. Let me know if you want a fuel accumulator, I've got a spare I understand there hard to come by for less than 100


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Your suggestion of heating the copper washers up, seems to have stopped mine from leaking.

 

Just been back under the car. timo16v suggestion of heating the washer looks like it's stopped my leak. Ran the car for about 5 minutes and couldn't find any leaks. Took the screw out of the back of the accumulator and it was bone dry - no leaks? So does that mean it's OK? Could it be the 5th injector? Can I just unplug it to see if it's the cause?

 

The 5th injector should only fire when the engine is stone cold. Unplugging it shouldn't make any difference to the running when it's warm. If it does then it could be knackered I guess. Unplug it, it's not going to damage anything [emoji106]

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yeah the 5th injector will do nothing at anything other than stone cold, a lot of people reckon it doesnt make that much difference at cold.

Gaz when you say hot start issues do you mean that the engine just wont catch or does starter seem to be running slower once its warmer, this is something mine does?. It never has a problem catching but cranks noticably slower when warm pretty sure its the starter on its way out

 

Top Banana!.....i always do this with banjo bolt washers...they can be a pain as the copper hardens over time

 

Sometimes can take about a minute to start, when hot. Turns over then eventually splutters into life. You have to keep pressing the throttle pedal until it feels like the fuel is getting through, and then keep flooring it until it stops spluttering, then eventually kicks into life and revs fine - until you stop again for longer than about 10 minutes. Then the fun begins again.

 

Thought I'd check the car again. Started it up and the non return valve is leaking again!!! From the copper washer that sits between the end of the pump and the valve. Time to buy NEW washers, as I was using the old ones. Anyone know what type/size they are?

 

Thanks!

 

Picked up the new washers yesterday (45p each). While I had the on the drive, I thought I'd fix the oil leak I have. Blasted the engine off with some degreaser to make it a bit easier to spot the leak and it appears to be from the Drive Shaft Flange Oil Seal on the gearbox. Removed the shaft and the flange cup to expose the seal. When I popped the rubber seal off the flange to expose the circlip, the flange flew out nearly hitting me in the face. There's a dished washer that came out with the flange, but it shot out so fast that I didn't have a chance to see which way around or where it came from.
Anybody know?

The new seal in position:


The washer that flew out:

 

Sorted the washer dilemma.

 

ive got this leak but i just keep putting it off!

the copper washers done their job?

 

Haven't done the fuel pump washers yet. Spent most of my day stabbing myself with screwdrivers and losing skin from my hand renewing the drive flange oil seal. Bloody nightmare trying to push in the drive flange and putting the circlip back on the shaft at the same time. Made myself a little helper to hold the drive flange in, while I put the clip back in. Had some old bed frame brackets lying around and a M10 bolt to screw into the shaft. Put it all back together, filled the gearbox up with 1.7litres of EP80/90. Took the car off the drive and noticed it's leaking from the other side of the gearbox now, but it wasn't before? I'm not sure how that's suddenly happened after I've replaced the passenger side seal?

 

New washers on fuel pump. No more leaks! Haven't had time to take it for a drive yet.

 

In Tank Fuel Pump

Worth checking that the fuel pump in the tank is working properly if you have one.

undo the pipes and wire connector at the top on the pump and unscrew the cap holding it in the tank.

I ran a live and earth to mine once out of the tank on the workbench, i pump some water through it to make sure it was all working ok.

What i did find and then fixed was

1) Filter mesh had fallen off of end into the bottom of the tank
2) rubber connector holding pump into sender housing was perished
3) rubber hose inside of tank on return piper badly perished

Very important when replacing these pipes that you use the correct submersible fuel hose, look on my other posts for where to get it from.

After i did this the car ran perfect , did not cut out anymore and did not buck when accelerating

 

Thanks. I'll give that a go this weekend after I replace the leaking sump gasket and the drivers side drive shaft seal.

 

also worth replacing your fuel pump relay as they can break down as the get warm and send the wrong signal to the fuel pump

 

OK. Replaced the sump gasket and the driver shaft seal on the drivers side of the gearbox.
BUT I STILL haven't got to the bottom of my rough running problems!
As mentioned before I've fixed the leak on the fuel pump under the car, fuel accumulator isn't leaking when I loosen the screw in the back either. So I'm assuming that's OK?
I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump a few days ago, in case that was the cause of any running issues but only had a chance to start the car up tonight.
Started fine at first but as it started to warm up after about 5 minutes, it started to die.
Now, when you start it up, it won't tick over at all. So I can't even adjust the CO screw in the metering head as it won't tick over. Really fed up now. It's becoming soul destroying. I've had the car nearly a year, my MOT has just ran out and I've done 400 miles in it!!
Considering putting it in the classifieds.

 

Still having major problems with running issues. I might try replacing the fuel pump and accumulator (Been informed that Xr3i/RS Turbo accumulator is the same?)
Have you got any lying around off your Mk2 Golf? How much would you want, posted? Tried to message you but your inbox is full.
Thanks. Garry.