1990 GTI MK2/ABF/5dr/Alpine White - Au - Mission Complete 1/7/2016

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by blis, Feb 29, 2012.

  1. blis Forum Member

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    Nov 2015 - Ive been meaning to compile into this thread, it might take a while and it's going to have a lot of ramblings as I recollect the many challenges I've had along the way.

    2012 - How it all came to be...
    My eldest son was approaching the age to get his drivers licence, having worn out my Ipad looking up car sales, he couldn't decide what he wanted and didn't want a cheapy to just get buy, it had to street cred and Honda Civic's seemed like the way to go, but the WRX's were haunting his decisions and my blood pressure. This went on for ages until a friend rolled up with the MK2 GTI 1990 4DR Alpine White. It looked horrible from where I was, but he liked it and after taking it for a drive, fell in love with the swagger of the car, even though it was rough to look at.

    In_the_beginning (HD).jpg

    Let's put it this way, I was a fool for trusting anyone who thought they could bog across a 12mm hole in a door panel or probe a digital ECU with an analog multimeter assuming he would diagnose the problem without a diags port connected. The looms were being tormented, I was into it for 7K AUD and I called the tow truck and walked away from the mech and delivered my son's birthday present, dead with no spark on a tow truck. Anyway, there's no point going over the past, the trials that lay ahead and the support from CGTI helped get her going and kept her going and that's what this thread is about and there's a happy ending that's still ongoing...

    IMG_0591 (HD).jpg

    So he car arrived home and we spent the early days tidying and cleaning and preparing to diagnose the problem. We did a little shopping, ordered a new front spoiler, Momo wheel and new pedals and removed all the bog from the door panels and painted over with cans. Then we covered the holes with a vinyl stripe and began the hunt for the various trim pieces missing. We installed a stereo, steam cleaned the interior and spent a little more time with our heads under the bonnet. To this day we'll never know if it was the ECU or we ground something as we were installing the new ECU. Regardless, the coming months entailed an indepth read of RJ's vag docs and countless lateral thinking ideas, none of which sparked the engine.

    NOTE: At this point, if I'd known how easy it was to install the DIAGNOSTIC port I would have, should have, could have.. but I'm a drongo sometimes and fear of the unknown does haunt me, specially if Im in over my head. SO JUST DO IT, IT'S THREE WIRES, one of which is earth, the other 12v and the only wire needed comes from the IMMOB. EASY PEASY!

    The diagnostics began...
    IS IT THE CPS other ignition wiring issues or is it the ECU?
    In truth, I'll never know because of the procrastination to install the DIAG PORT, I'm an old school IT guy, we solve lots of odd problems, this one had me beat. I'd pulled apart the hall sender thinking it has something to do with ignition timing, it was working as I used a 12V led to light the signal. So many hours spent trying to find a way of testing the elusive CPS, dang thing is behind the engine mount too. We bought a new coil, I think thousands of other people have too, that didnt help, we started pulling down the looms, testing continuity back to the ECU, everything seemed to check out. This went on for weeks, Christmas came, my holidays spent head down in a 1990 chassis with a 1995 engine and getting my head around the separation of the ABF and the MK2 still does my head in.

    Hall Sender Video
    [video=youtube;PO0PMJOJH88]

    We'd pulled down the fuse box, it was a mess so the first of many tidy task were performed. We opened the ECU, everything looked fine, caps weren't popped, they're hard to visually guess anyway and consider doing this in the sub tropic, mid summer, it's not pleasant with sweat running down your face and glass, so believe me, this was a tough ask. I tried everything except changing the CPS. I did measure resistance against a new one in box, they were the same, but later as I gathered more information, a CPS is an active circuit converting analog to digital signals, it's not something a simple multimeter is going to diagnose. I persisted with it until I had an opportunity to buy two keys, a steering column, ecu and immob directly from someone in Germany. I bit the bullet and ordered it blindly spending a fair amount of money for something I was uncertain of, all I could think of at the time was putting a smile on my son's face.

    IMG_0983 (HD).jpg

    Keeping busy waiting for the German to deliver.. BY SEA!!!
    We were waiting on the ECU and Steering column and carrying on with tidying up the car. It was rust free, it had a issues with the blinker stalk, horn and stalk return noted during the MOMO install. The Hazzzard toggle was a little "IFFY" to say the least and the column shroud had taken a beating over the years. Everything else seemed to work ok. The seats were a ride and a half and we did some work on the slides. I found a large cable tie helped the centers and it needs a revisit. We struggled with the bumpers, they'd been painted Alpine white. The bar itself has been repaired and all I can do is put it down to character each time I have to deal with it, I admit to a few too many harsh words with my encounters with the bumpers.

    We were giving it so much love, every now and then we'd try to start it, with high hopes being shattered each and every time, it hurt the young lad, not to mention me. It was raw, rough and very clean by now, there wasn't much else one could do, so of course the "stezza" helped having some sound to listen to and a video memoir to remind us of the beginnings. Yes, aunty Roz sent the towel from the UK, mum bought the key ring... :)

    [video=youtube;Kquzsuw4x10]

    The parcel arrived well after his birthday, and after obsessively grounding everything I could find to the block, plugging in the ECU, installing the steering column, changing the BOSS, immob and fresh keys, it started!!! WOOOOOHOOO, you should have seen the smile on his face!!! :)

    The car was equipped with the nastiest rubber nankang tyres and the wheels literally fell off when the bottom hub screws came loose. The horrible feeling that the mechanic didn't understand the meaning of "mechanically sound" haunted me... The car was running hot, it's taken several years to overcome that too and it's still an open project. So at this point in time, the car was running, but not well. We've gone backward recently as well, there's a rumbling in the driveline and I think I best sort it out myself.


    We put some KHUMO tyres on and ordered the suspension.

    SUSPENSION
    The Golf handled more like a boat than a Sporty Hatch, the shocks were shot. So after two attempts buying from VW Heritage, I had the Mk2 30mm lower and banging hard and rubbing.
    IMG_0518 (HD).jpg
    I think they are great value for money, they were perfect length and they lower 30mm. Best cut down fresh bump stops and enjoy the ride, with a good set of rubber you'll be flinging the front seats from side to side! As it's a lowered spring, there's not as much bump travel before it bottoms out and rough roads can be a handful. But it's nothing like the coilovers on other cars, these fit, they ride well and help create heaps of traction. They are budget "Street", not sport, hence awesome value for money considering the ride quality. Easy to fit too!

    NOTE: Thank you VW Heritage!
    They honoured the fact I had been very specific about the KONI part number and sent free of charge the correct set and I sold the MK1 STR-T Kit to a very happy MK1 owner in Adelaide for them and transferred the money. That's awesome customer service and ever since then I've got nothing but absolute pleasure buying everything and anything from them, specially the freight to Australia is the best on the planet. If only they had parts for the ABF, life would have been a lot easier.

    Image Gallery
    http://framepoet.org/mk2

    **************************************************
    Original Posting - March 2012
    **************************************************

    Overview of parts and work

    GOLF MK2 GTI 1990 5dr - Alpine White
    SEAT Toledo 16V 2.0L ABF
    Seat ABF Wiring loom
    Dual Fan radiator

    • New bushes : Steering suspension and Engine mounts
    • New Disk rotors and pads
    • New ignition coil
    • New Ignition leads
    • New CPS
    • New KONI STR.T Suspension
    • New Wheel and Boss
    • New Audio System
    • New Vacuum lines

    • Recon/Used Dizzy
    • Recon/Used ECU/IMMOB/IGN/STEERING SHAFT
    • Recon/Used Washer bottle
    • Recon/Used Radiator Over flow
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2018
  2. Deako Paid Member Paid Member

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    Any chance you can post the details on here instead of linking to the other thread?
     
  3. blis Forum Member

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    Overheat - Water Pump Failure.

    Sure is Deako, better late than never...

    Omitted from the first stage was the problem finding the fuel line clips to the fuel rail. It was a frightening time, imagine spraying a fine mist of fuel all over the bonnet via the alternator fan blades, spark, fuel and air... NOT GOOD.

    From April 2012...

    That held on for a short while and the connector was elusive and I couldnt find another anywhere... We stressed for a while longer and then it failed again, more on that later.

    Overheating and Oil Temps

    These two ended up being unrelated but the overheat was a serious issue. It was the water pump as well as several recurring coolant problems, cooling hoses were old, flanges were cracking and the metal bottom hose joiner was mangled and corroded beyond repair. It took a lot of effort and to this day I wish I sourced a new set of SAMCO hoses from the start.

    • Replaced Thermostat 90c
    • Replaced Water Pump
    • Replaced Reservoir
    • Replaced Hoses on the bottom end
    • Removed the Air Con radiator
    • Flushed Engine with alkaline salts
    • Refilled with Coolant.
    • Temp Guage sits on middle of dial and is constant.

    I was impressed with the tenacity of my son, he had the front end off and replaced the pump in good time with his friend Joe. This wasn't to be the first or last time we'd replace the pump. The impeller on the original with the car was a sheet metal and the latter Repco were cast metal which fit the recess better but have failing bearings.

    Sept 2012 - Concluded the post.

    [video=youtube_share;gg9g1Dw9gck]http://youtu.be/gg9g1Dw9gck [/video]

    Success is a measure of how quickly you recover from failure!

    (It'll never end until I buy a complete cooling hose kit and do it right once)
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2015
  4. blis Forum Member

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    [​IMG]KONI STR_T "Street" Kit Numbers - GOLF MK1/MK2

    KONI STR.T Suspension kit

    Got sent the wrong kit.. fyi.. *grumbles* The car really needs a decent suspension kit.

    FOR MK1
    IMG_0277 (HD).jpg IMG_0280 (HD).jpg

    For GOLF 1 and late CADDY...
    Golf 1 74-83 Classic 86-1919
    STR.T 8650-1005 8050-1010
    Sport 86-1919Sport 80-2307Sport
    Sport 8641-1048Sport T38041-1101Sport
    Sport Short 86-1919SP10 Lmax -25mm
    Sport Springs 1020-6152 30 30 1,8,13
    Sport Kit 1130-2903 30 30 1,8,13,16


    Golf 1 Cabrio 79-93 Classic 86-1919
    STR.T 8650-1005 8050-1010
    Sport 86-1919Sport 80-2307Sport
    Sport 8641-1048Sport T38041-1101Sport
    Sport Short 86-1919SP10 Lmax -25 mm
    Golf 1 Diesel 78-83 STR.T 8650-1005 8050-1010
    Sport 86-1919Sport 80-2307Sport
    Sport 8641-1048Sport T38041-1101Sport
    Sport Short 86-1919SP10 Lmax -25 mm
    Golf 1 GTI 76-83 STR.T 8650-1005 8050-1010


    I asked specifically for:
    IMG_0518 (HD).jpg
    For Golf Mk2 GTI
    Golf 2 GTI, excl. 16V model
    Front: as from 7/89, for non-sealed struts only 09.83-90
    STR.T 8650-1002 8050-1007

    Sport M380-2542Sport
    Sport 8641-1085Sport M38040-1043Sport
    Coil-over Kit 1150-5001-1 65 55 16,21,22

    Golf 2 GTI, excl. 16V model
    Front: for sealed struts only 04.89-91
    STR.T 8750-1008 8050-1007
    Sport 87-2440Sport M380-2542Sport
    Sport 8741-1204Sport M38040-1043Sport
    Coil-over Kit 1150-5001-1 65 55 16,21,22


    Golf 2 C, CL, GL, GT
    Front: as from 7/89, for non-sealed struts only 09.83-90 STR.T 8650-1002 8050-1007
    Sport M380-2542Sport
    Sport 8641-1085Sport M38040-1043Sport
    Coil-over Kit 1150-5001-1 65 55 16,21,22

    Golf 2 C, CL, GL, GT
    Front: for sealed struts only 04.89-91 STR.T 8750-1008 8050-1007
    Sport 87-2440Sport M380-2542Sport
    Sport 8741-1204Sport M38040-1043Sport
    Coil-over Kit 1150-5001-1 65 55 16,21,22


    Golf 2 GTI-16V
    Front: as from 7/89, for non-sealed struts only 86-90 STR.T 8650-1002 8050-1008

    Sport M380-2587Sport
    Sport 8641-1085Sport M38040-1062Sport
    Coil-over Kit 1150-5001-1 65 55 16,21,22

    Golf 2 GTI-16V
    Front: for sealed struts only 04.89-91
    STR.T 8750-1008 8050-1008 (Apologies - Just realised there is a 16V STR-T kit, dang!)
    Sport 87-2440Sport M380-2587Sport
    Sport 8741-1204Sport M38040-1062Sport
    Coil-over Kit 1150-5001-1 65 55 16,21,22

    Easter 2012
    After a mix up due to a misleading label on the box I finally have the STR.T Mk2 kit installed and it has lower us 30mm and much improved considering the exisiting shocks were non-existent.
    Install went smoothly, the drain in the front strut housing was blocked and happy to have cleaned that up too.

    Other issues:
    ISV or AIR leak on ABF, idle is @1100 and need to look into it
    Fuel connection at Fuel rail is leaking, need to check if repairable with new orings or something more substantial like the whole rail.

    IDLE GAP

    Removed the throttle valve today and cleaned with carby cleaner. Measured initial idle gap from top manifold side of housing to the valve @ 21.2mm. Then after some trouble getting the idle switch to move, tapped off the IDLE switch because it was "gooped".

    Measured fully closed valve @ 19.3mm

    Decided I would work back from current by and close the gap .5mm. Cleaned up the goop residue, reassembled idle stop/switch, measured, idle switch to 20.8mm.

    The car drops into a idle better rpm range and doesn't hang or over run as much. Idle has dropped to 900-1000, perhaps 20.5mm gap would have been ideal.

    Update:
    I drove it myself tonight and I can't say it's any different, I still get over-run. At least I know the throttle body is clean and in good working order.

    BUMP STOPS FOR REARS - KONI

    [​IMG]
    Off topic: Rear Bump stops for suspension arrived and soon realised we'd not put the old ones on. Bought these, cut the top nodule off because it's 30-40mm lower and had Mum and dad in the back, brothers in the front and woohoo no rubbing and a welcomed end to arguments over "I need coilovers". I think I should replace the fronts now too!
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2018
  5. blis Forum Member

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    Location:
    New South Wales
    MAG Wheels / Paint / Fuel Connector

    IMG_1113 (HD).jpg Before I knew it, he'd sourced clone BBS mags with a wide offset, just ordering and getting the wheels was an ordeal I'd rather forget, then to find we were rubbing guards and bottoming out, we found ourselves with a big metal pipe trying to roll the guards at the shop. By the time we'd got it home we had the wheels off again. Under the lips was the toughest synthetic lining Ive ever had to contend with. While the son was worried about chipping paint, I was worried about the big picture and thought it time I bought a spray gun because those wheels created a project on it's own.

    IMAG0264 (HD).jpg

    Let's Paint!
    It wasn't a pretty car and I didn't think I'd do it any more harm sealing it with some home grown love. The boys bought a hammer and dolly and I realised I could enjoy the metal craft, "craft" being the operative here, I'm not the best at slow patient tasks and besides, it takes a well experienced hand to work the fillers. If there was a major goof and that was the bonnet, absolutely shocking, I thought I could skim coat and the filler went off in our heat so fast... you know the rest, lots of sanding back. Also, I used the wire wheel to remove the paint, later I learned it best to COLD SAND with harsh grit to keep it cool. The bonnet is too far gone anyway, there's kinks behind the underside supports that are too hard to get to, I thought I might have winged it, I hadn't. Needs a new bonnet, end of subject.

    IMAG0291 (Copy).jpg

    The left side passenger door was nasty, it was popping the skin, but there was no kink in the metal, it took me a while to realise the roll under the side strip was kinked and hit hard and this skewed the skin. With a flat edged hammer and it's friend I managed to work it back and the door panel popped straight back out. Skim of filler and it's been my best panel job to date as it's still straight today.

    IMG_1138 (HD).jpg

    The passenger side had more damage than the driver side, the front wheel arch had been previously filled and I did the best with hammer and dolly, but it too needed replacing. We had to move on, after fettling with it for hours with my younger son, a good skim and to date it's been surprisingly straight.

    IMG_1140 (HD).jpg

    We did clear the side trim holes out and later masked behind for priming.

    View attachment 1637

    The front arch wasn't good, took a few coats to get in shape.

    IMG_1152 (HD).jpg

    That'll do... Besides, this was never meant to be a full respray, I'd let the pros take it back, replace what's needed do the lot, there's little use trying to get it to that stage without the bonnet, guards and new door. Oneday, perhaps.

    IMG_1155 (HD).jpg

    I sprayed too dry... oh well, we live and learn, it scuffed quite well with the scotch pad.

    IMG_1183 (HD).jpg

    Again, top coats were too dry, the temps we high and I should have invested in reducers etc. Regardless, I got enough paint on to cut it back and it's a lot cleaner. I spent far too long with 1500 wet and dry cutting it back.

    IMG_1203 (HD).jpg

    Right after the buff and wash!

    So the bonnet and two sides of the car were painted, it looked a lot better and we set about sourcing the trims from here and there, not sure where Guy found it all, I gave it a light dusting of matte black and "it looked like a bought one!"

    The door trims arrived from UK, they are in great shape, rear tabs all good but they were faded like many before. I've been reading up on a Autobody forum as well regarding painting plastics, bumpers etc and many suggested not to use Wax and Grease remover as it may react with plastics. I tried on an old set before I tried on the ones I was going to use, I found there was a LOT of old grunge built up, probably from many years of Armorall and plastic rejuvinators. It took 10-15 minutes of cleaning down each trim until the rag remained clean. From there I use my birthday present (small touchup spray gun) with a very thinned out Acrylic matt black and shot very thin (lean on the paint),two light coats, just enough to "blacken" the trims but not enough to fill up any of the texture. We all know what they look like "before"...

    Here's after..

    [​IMG]


    Fuel rail - Fuel Connectors
    These are evil graphite quick fit connectors and finding them proved most elusive. It ended up being the most expensive part I had to mod and replace on the car. I patted myself on the back for home grown ingenuity using an antenna tube as an insert, but that didnt last long at all. We were back to square one, the stalemate of leaving the fuel rail housing inlet/ports alone and trying to find the male inserts that connect to the fuel line. We even bought a fuel rail from the US, it was for an ABA and with limited metal fabrication, we sent it back and never got a refund. I had to bite the bullet and find a male threaded piece to tap into the rail itself.

    [​IMG]

    After a lot of fails, this connector saved the day. I bit the bullet and tapped into the fuel rails port and screwed it in with some sikoflex for good measure and it's worked a treat since.

    WOBBLY SEAT
    I did get round to getting rid of that annoying tweak the seat, we're missing a small bushing for the rail (front), there's a slot there where it would shim up and align the holes. I used two large cablle ties heads for now, it wont last long either.
    Q: Anyone have a picture of what the missing piece looks like? (I FIXED IT WITH A LARGE CABLE TIE)
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2018
  6. blis Forum Member

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    Dec 27, 2011
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    Updating now...

    COOLANT LEAK HEAD SIDE FLANGE

    Is this the connection gaskety or the head gasket...??

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The problem is still unresolved, there is a slow leak from the flange
    On closer inspection there are tiny cracks throughout the whole flange and it's hard to determine where it leaks.
    Have a new o-ring fitted no luck
    Used wet and dry on flat surface to clean up and flatten face
    I cant find 037121145H anywhere.
    I purchased what I thought was correct but it's not the same inner diameter and has too many hose connections.

    RJ To the rescue
    yup just for the a/c system

    this is the one you're after:
    http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_in...roducts_id=657

    8v ones might be the same bolt pattern they're just a bit shorter?

    Fitted
    We got as far as the vent, gave up trying to get the matrix out (this time) I was down and out with a bad back and my younger son was doing all the work. We thought that next time it might be best to remove the dash and preferably the seats and have a better crack at it. Note we never connected the matrix when we swpped to the ABF so it was still an unknown factor

    [​IMG]

    Thanks to AVS the flange worked out well. went Repco to grab a hose that would reach the matrix and we hooked it up and I could see a great water fall beneath the car as we turned the engine over. So matrix is khaput!!!

    [​IMG]
    Everything else seemed to be working, and seeing the other thread the ducts need a filter makeover as well.

    [​IMG]

    At least the leak is sorted and we know we need a matrix and it's not an easy peasy job.

    HEATER MATRIX TIPS FROM RJ - TO DO
    top tips for the matrix:
    1. undo all 3 nuts in the engien bay, not just the 2 middle ones. the 3rd one is behind the header tank (RHD car)
    2. remove heater panel and unscrew the slider panel from das, dont bother tryign to disconnect cables
    3. pull out all 4 vents, then unscrew/clip the vent surrounds. then remove the air vent distribution box from front of matrix (i see you have already done this)
    4. undo the big round ripped plastic nut thingy up in the a pillar area holding fan housing to the top of the bulkhead
    5. remove the plastic drim from driver footwell then remove footwell distribution vents
    6. finally remove entire airbox + blower assembly complete!

    OIL HEATER HOSES

    The first picture is from another thread to see the system clearly.

    [​IMG]

    Found another leak, when the thermostat failed, seemed to stress all the coolant systems.


    SANTA'S SHOPPING LIST ITEM
    Can anyone confirm these are correct for an ABF?

    http://www.amber-performance.co.uk/product.php?xProd=8350&xSec=1724

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    Before I get the front end off (unless there's an easier way) need to find replacement hoses to sort this out

    [​IMG]

    Any ideas where to source these from, would AVS have them. I dont know the part numbers either, so apologies in advance.

    TEENAGERS..
    Alas, I get home for lunch and my son has taken the initiative and found a EURO dealer that had an oil heater rubber seal. He's all grown up now, water pump last night, oil cooler today and I'm impressed. We had a look over the hoses, put fresh clamps and it seems that the Red coolant residue was from elsewhere. My apologies for jumping the gun but as many would appreciate in the MK2 arena, removing the front bumpers often end up hurting the clips and things get loose, break etc...

    Now all that remains is to find out where/why the water temp LED is flashing. Hopefully it's th reservor or electrical. My other son had the soldering iron out making good of any dodgy connects and sorted out as much as possible while he could get in.

    So no more oil leaks, no more water leaks, and consider our summers average days of 30c, car in Australia dont fair well if plumbing and lube isnt in good shape. We idled her and she was quite warm, the fans kick in just that little too late for my liking, but there's nothing "too hot" anymore, there isnt that 140c stench when muck starts burning.

    Thanks for reading.

    DREADED COOLANT LIGHT FLASHING

    It's taken three coolant reservoir bowls, countless stopping of the car and checking coolant levels and a lot of frustration, so if you've done the same, here's what I found to solve our problem.

    It happened more regularly at night with the lights on, and while my old eyes can play tricks I was certain the dashboard lights would dim just as the LED would flash. It's a MK2 ABF conversion and has a new column and the bottom bearing/bushing was never great and there's play in the column. The other night while driving I noticed that if I push the wheel upwards while driving the DASH lights would brighten and not dim and I could stop the COOLANT light flashing repeatedly too.

    So I made an assumption that there was a voltage drop and that was the reason the LED flashed and the DASH lights dimmed. So I pulled the wheel off, removed the shroud and blinker system and while I was looking at removing the connectors I felt a HEX BOLT was loose. It was the column clip that came loose and so I tightened it. I assume this was creating a poor ground somewhere and presto, no more flashing coolant LED.

    Done!!

    And it only took two years!
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
  7. blis Forum Member

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    Overheat / Oil temp sender tweak / DIAGS AT LAST!

    There's something not right with the cooling systems on the ABF.

    Things to note:

    Bypassed the oil cooler
    Bypassed the Heater matrix.
    Newish water pump 1 year
    Thermostat 1.5 years
    Flange on block changed to a single.
    Reservoir feeds the metal piping from bypass behind the pump to the heater matrix

    We removed radiator, checked the thermo switch, check the fan relays and most of it checked ok. The problem being that the fans dont kick in enough for out climate and when the temps go past half way, one would expect the fans to kick, but they dont always. We also found how easy it is to create an air lock as the radiator didnt fill properly.

    Questions:
    a. Could it be the thermo switch failing when hot.
    b. Could it be the thermostat (lower pipe is hot)
    c. Could it be the RELAY for the fan
    d. Could it be less water volume.

    A: d (Later I replaced the oil coolant hoses and engine health with knock sensor and cps, temps have improved dramatically. I assume a heater matrix will help even more.)

    PICS...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Hot Tempered Gremlins

    Im almost convinced our MK2/ABF has a soul... I took it to the wrecking yard to grab connectors, thermo switch, oil temp and water temp, grabbed a charcoal filter while there too. Ours makes a knocking sound and this had the correct bracket.

    On the way home the car behaved like it hasnt for a long while, even the oil temp reported 124c, the water temp guage was just over 1/3 and well under 1/2 way.

    As I approached home the oil temp immediately jumped to 150, the water temps rose, and when I parke din driveway and restarted, the oil temp topped out at 160c (which cant be right) and the temps rose past 1/2 way and the fans still didnt kick in.

    Ive sat the car at idle many times and let it idle up to temp and fans kick in, so Im struggling to diagnose it.

    While I was at the wreckers I found a complete module for the fans, but it had several inputs and it seemed daunting. Stopped by a parts shop hoping I could get a 2 stage relay like the one on mine. Pulled it off and noticed some oxidation on the power terminals, so Im wondering if its the relay intermittently failing.


    Thanks John,

    Ill keep a look out for the MFA Oil temp with White top for Mk2, the original owner took it, are they hard to find? The fans are working now, at idle the temp gauge rises to 1/2 way, the fans kick in for a short burst on low while idling the oil temps were directly correlating with the fan cooling the water and dropping 6 dgrees. The oil temp deviates in 2 degree increments while it seems to be happy, then the Oil temp on the MFA (not actual) deviates in silly numbers once the engine is up to temp. eg Jumping from 120 to 150, back and forth and then topping at 160c maxxed out. Im really not concerned, I wanted to see the relationship in the water and oil temps and that has been achieved.

    The real win is that I may have found the oil cooler water hoses from the Mk3, I havent checked completely but they look similar from memory. I'd like to get them back on to increase the overall volume of water as I dont have a heater matrix either. She's purring again, don't know what I would have done if you hadn't posted the single flange off the head some time ago, with that Meyle number I sorted it out. Seems all the other flanges are bigger or offset, spent a night scratching heads and using dremels to grind down the edge to fit but it wouldnt work as there's a recess on the block in the casting and doesnt allow for a larger flange hole.

    Also, it's good that I found the correct bracket for the emissions charcoal thingy, it would vibrate into the dash where the original has two rubber gromets. Now onto the Radiator, there's a small hole in the return piece on the radiator and I dont even know where to start looking if I want a new rad. I'd love to get one with a cap to FILL the radiatior completely as well as having an overflow nipple directly from the Radiator rather than into the hose. Touch wood its been ok, but I have NO hope of getting another hose with the overflow tapped in like the one we have.

    Now onto connectors and will look thru what I salvaged and what I can replace. I've removed the connectors from the metal support need the loom connection because there are pins exposed that are shorting out the system and no start, so I've bundled them up safely until I solder on some newer ones.

    Seriously, thanks to all once again for the world wide support. On the fun side, good news is I also expect another Horse or two because we now have a RED dipstick and you know that makes them go faster!!!

    RJ - on my abf im using a mk1/2 golf 1.8 carb/gti rad, with std 1.8 hoses. I think the mk1 1.8 carb has a single core rad, you want a double core version. the mk2 1.8 carb is double cored tho same as the mk1/2 gti. for the bottom hose fit a mk1/2 thermostat flange and the std hose straight fit, for upper you flip the hose the other way to how it is in the original car and trim it slightly job jobbed


    SirGuyDo being the generous soul that he is.. luvyamaaaayte!

    INDICATOR STALK - VWHeritage
    With a little luck got my hands on a Meyle indicator stalk and installed it, was nice to have an indicator return again! Then I noticed the High beams failed to work, lights were connected, blue light on dash didnt work... Thanks to RJ's ELECTRICAL fuse box wiring FAQ it wasnt the fuses #11 and #12, fusebox plugs were in, they are split left and right with main beams, one side connected to dash light so if main beams were good, then plugs were in place. So I got back under the steering column and noticed a wiring connector to the stalks was skewed. With the top cover still in place it was quite difficult to get it in square as it was too tight for fingers and with the shroud in place I used gentle persuasion with a flat blade screwdriver and it popped in.. Presto, all good!

    Next coolant hose that splits, remind me to come and read this!
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...d-read-this!&p=2394826&viewfull=1#post2394826

    GTI, is it really special, has anyone given up and returned doing things differently or are they all inherently the same?


    These past few months have had me questioning decisions to keep or weep and there's a truth to ClubGTI being a major factor in this MK2 experience. I think I'm not alone either, so many members have invested countless $$, time and energy to keep these delightful cars rolling, they've conveyed their concerns for breakers and care for the future of the classic Golfs.

    There is a lot of merit in the car genes, ease of access, handling, the pedigree and performance is loved by many. This alone may not have been enough to get to the stage Im at, it was supposed to be as much an education for my son as it was a labour of love I wanted to avoid. A few years on and if I had a dollar for every time I went under and over the car, I'd be a wealthy man. All the while, I've come back to this forum, found information and more than that, encouragement by a global base of caring dubbers.

    This many people can't be so passionate because of association, the car itself must be special and as an owner who feels like he's taking care of an aging family member, it takes it's toll on one's patience. So to all those who have helped, keep up the good work, Im about to head off to a mates place and enjoy getting their knowing that there is something in the ClubGTI movement that makes all the effort, sore fingers, worn blackened nails and sore knees, deserving and worth doing.

    It's ironic to think that the Club too has it's good and bad times, much like the car and at its core... Yes, it's a good thing!

    h



    At last I found a wreckers that has Euro cars. Sumner Park. MK3's, MK4's, Golfs, Polos and a bug. Most the 16V engines were gone as were the TDI and nothing Mk2 and not a DUB savvy crew, but they were very helpful.
    Anyway, I was there to hunt down a VAG port to hook up to the ABF 1995 that's missing a diag port. After shedding a little blood and poking my head into cavities filled with stagnant water I managed to find a VW port.

    [​IMG]

    I've been hunting for John's guide to installing the diag port for three days and can't find the link. << INSERT DIAG POST HERE >>

    Anyway, it's easy as 12v, ground and a signal wire and then downloading the VCDS Lite from ROSS TECH, you can't miss it, what you do need is the USB/Serial interface to access it and that's where I got lucky.

    IMG_0979 (HD).jpg

    It's best you visit RJ's threads for all the info and have a good look under dash and tidy up using << INSERT FUSEBOX POST HERE >>
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2018
  8. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    CV's - Lets get greasy!

    CV's - Lets get greasy!
    We had problems with the left hub from the time we got the car. I thought bearings were trashed and took it to steering specialists who tightened up the hub nut. Well, a couple of years on...

    [​IMG]

    Need I say any more!!

    Recently we purchased Khumo tyres that were factory flawed and deformed and perhaps had something to do with it, but the hub bearings are/were completely shot!! We got real lucky and grabbed front K frame from a Mk3 and both drive shafts! We're off to get new bearings and then to Wayne Park Auto in the morning to have them pressed out and replaced. We've even learned how to remove the boot from the old drive shaft as it was new and have it swapped as well. Sometimes I wish someone would remind me to wear gloves before I start these greasy jobs. Older son Guy was devastated once again, but with some patience and luck getting the front end off the mk3 he's settled down. He had just one good day of no blinking on a dashboard and we're back on jack stands. As a dad, I'm proud of his perseverance and the fact that he gets lots of street cred in the Mk2 keep him going, and for me, it's definitely a teenage character building exercise!!

    [​IMG]

    We're hoping to build up the MK3 hubs with new disc rotors and upgrade the brakes next. The MK3 hubs are in good shape too, so we'll hang on to them.

    So, we've learned a lot in this exercise with a lot of issues to resolve. And now we've rebuilt and swapped out nearly every component of the left drive assembly.


    HELP!!
    After the spline broke we:
    • Learned a MK3 CV doesnt always fit and we needed an outer 81mm CV joint
    • We found an aftermarket out CV and we over tightened the hub nut and stripped the CV and nut so badly we had to buy another
    • Learned that the Spindle was shagged so used the MK3 4x100 when we swapped the bearing
    • We used the MK3 drive shaft and inner CV because it looked newer

    Then after we fitted everything when we slightly turn right at speed (>15mph/20kph) we had a rumbling noise, so...

    • We changed the bearing again
    • We cleaned the inner original CV greased and fitted it
    • We changed the bottom hub joint

    And now after checking everything we could think of, we still have a rumble only when turning/leaning right.

    We've jacked the car up, slightly loaded the arm and started in 4th at 60KPH and no sign of any effects, regardless of whether we turned left or right.

    So in summary,

    • We've changed two new outer CVs
    • We've swapped out Inner CV joints
    • We've swapped out bottom arm Ball joints
    • We've swapped wheels front to rear
    • I'm totally over working with greasy hands....

    Observations:
    • The rumble / grind only happens when turning right
    • The rumble / grind only happens when over 20KPH
    • The rumble / grind doesn't happen when full locked right at stop

    GETTING ON WITH IT...

    This evening as the car was being inspected by a good friend and ace mechanic we noticed the rear left wheel bearing was not happy.

    Thank you for bring this to attention and we'll be changing it tomorrow.

    After changing the loose steering rod, putting new bearing in the hub and new CV as well... the problem persists and we are at our wits end.

    Car is now on jack stands again and it's getting harder to convince my son that we've come this far and we should persist with the MK2 ABF

    If one learns from their mistakes, boy we've learned a lot!


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks to all for responding... It's been a very trying time...

    My sons purchased what is "said" to be a k-frame, shafts, CV's, steering rods, hubs, spindles, bottom arms and power steering rack for a MK3. What particular model I'm not sure...

    It became apparent that the track width of the MK3 is wider and we are familiar with the entire concept via RC racing.

    Our car is a MK2 with a SEAT ABF and to the best of my knowledge Mk2 Gearbox.

    My sons tried to swap out the OUTER CVs only from the Mk3 alone seen in the following pic on the left and the assembly was too long.

    [​IMG]

    The CV on the right of the above picture are the CV's that were on the car.

    With the larger CV, the existing axle wouldnt fit with teh larger CV so we went and bought some after market CVs that were the same dimensions and spline/clip system as the ones that were fitted on the car.

    See follwing picture the shiny one on the right is new and the older existing on the left.

    [​IMG]

    In addition I didn't pull down and rebuild all the drive shafts so as a member mentioned, it may be a CLIP to CLIP measurement I need.

    As seen in tonights pictures I've pulled off the hub to release the CV from hub and checked everything for play and distance.

    So in truth I have to face the fact that I've worked from hear say and I should have pulled everything down, measured from clip to clip, end to end and rebuilt the shaft assembly from the start.

    When I had the Mk3 Inner and Shaft on a bench I measured it standing flat against the MK2 Inner and Shaft and they were the same lengths to clip, yet I had not removed the inner CVs and measured from clip to clip.

    After the CV's went on and we over tightened thinking we hadnt tightened enough because of the rumble/wobble/grinding, I then cleaned and swapped back the original INNER CV that was on the car onto the MK3 shaft with NEW CV.



    Of course I'm dreading pulling the whole shaft down again!! Only to find out that it's the same as the one I have 433mm (end to end) - 419mm (clip to clip)

    I trust that there are more flavours of shafts on Golf in this era between MK2 and MK3. From what I've seen on the k_frame assembly we bought, the MK3 has wider arms, deeper outer CVs, longer steering rods and the same INNER CV on the existing car and it may not be standard at all. When I purchased the CV, the Chinese owner was adamnet that the outer CV's we had were too small for the MK2. So I'm bewildered as to what is spec and what's been mashed together before we got the car.

    The last question is the concave thrust washer and graphite/plastic sleeve on the outer CV and how it's supposed to be fitted?

    This is what I think really needs to be checked. I may have the hardened steel thrust washer the wrong way around...

    [​IMG]

    Tshirt2K wrote - That is wrong in the pic. The plastic bit needs to be turned around and rounded bit fits into the cv. The concave washer is the right way but goes in first.

    And he's right.

    Ok, I'm with you now... The CV's on the car are and were 81mm CVs. The drive shaft on the outer does have play, and a fair amount of it (will measure difference) and I could then assume that if I have the thrust washer the wrong way around and if the driveshaft is permitted to move into the CV too far it would be rubbing on the inside of the CV. On the drive shaft I removed, the one on the car, the spline is around 33mm from clip to where the thrust washer and graphite shim stop. On the inner it's 30mm. I'll measure it all more carefully when I get it off tonight.



    OK LETS START ALL OVER...


    Yep I think it was a mashup of parts by the mad Bavarian who sold us the car. It's starting to all make sense now, I'd put a quid down that the Shafts on the car when I bought it are the same as the ones I have from the MK3. When I had to remove the CV the first time, the outer CV floated on the end of that drive shaft too. The inner CV only has 1-3mm play in and out on the shaft. I have the 81mm CVs


    *******************************************************
    And this is something I found from 6 years ago... I think I'll post it again.
    *******************************************************
    26th March 2011, 22:24
    Ok, some shafts to hand now. Turned out to be a selection of mostly Mk2.

    Circlip groove distance apart measurements now in purple.

    If anyone has bare shafts to hand, these are the two measurement points to take from now on:

    1) Total length
    2) Circlip centreline to circlip centreline (the grooves are ~ 2mm wide).


    Golf 1 / Scirocco 1 & 2084 gearbox with 90mm inner CVs
    Short shaft: ???mm Long shaft: ???mm
    020 gearbox with 90mm inner CVs
    Short shaft: 445.5mm Long shaft: 658mm (lengths TBC - both believed 6 - 8 mm longer than '100mm shafts', see below)

    Scirocco 2 / Golf Cabrio
    020 gearbox with 100mm inner CVs
    Short shaft: 433mm, 421mm circlip centreline to centreline Long shaft: 650mm

    Golf 2 / Mk2 Ibiza / Mk3 Ibiza
    085 gearbox with 90mm inner CVsShort shaft: ???mm Long shaft: ???mm
    020 gearbox with 90mm inner CVsShort shaft: 443mm, 430mm circlip centreline to centreline Long shaft: 677.2mm, 663mm circlip centreline to centreline
    020 / 02A gearbox with 100mm inner CVs
    Short shaft: 432mm (confirmed twice), 419/421mm circlip centreline to centreline Long shaft: 681 666mm, 654mm circlip centreline to centreline
    .

    Note: the flanges on the MK2 GTI box (100mm inner CVs) stick out further from the casing than the MK2 non-GTI (90mm inner CVs), hence the shorter GTI shafts to compensate.

    Note also that implcitly the Mk2 engine sits 8mm nearer the centre of the car than in the Mk1.
    .

    Haynes data reads:
    Golf 2 GTI with 100mm inner CVs
    Short shaft: 447mm * Haynes are wrong* Long shaft: 681.2mm * Haynes are wrong*

    By the way, the G2 Haynes manual has got the shaft lengths wrong. Haynes appears wrong at least on the GTI, possibly the non-GTI too

    Golf 2 Rallye (4 stud)
    Front short shaft: 432/3mm, 420/1mm circlip centreline to centreline Front long shaft: 501mm
    Rear shaft (left): 544mmmm, 530mm circlip centreline to centreline Rear shaft (right): 404mmmm, 390mm circlip centreline to centreline

    Corrado
    16V / G60 (4 stud)
    Short shaft: 432mm, 421mm circlip centreline to centreline Long shaft: 666mm, 654mm circlip centreline to centreline
    VR6 (5 stud)
    Short shaft: 448mm Long shaft: 666 682mm, 667mm circlip centreline to centreline

    Golf 3
    non-GTI (4 stud, 085 gearbox)
    Short shaft: ???mm Long shaft: ???mm
    non-GTI (4 stud 020-hybrid gearbox, with 90mm inner CVs)
    Short shaft: ???mm Long shaft: ???mm
    GTI / VR6 (5 stud, 020 gearbox & 100mm CVs or 02A gearbox)
    Short shaft: 447/450mm, 435mm circlip centreline to centreline +/- 1mm Long shaft: 682mm, 667mm circlip centreline to centreline +/- 3mm

    Passat
    4-stud (~88 - 96)
    Short shaft: 456mm. Measured at 453mm - CE 14.7.11, 441mm circlip centreline to centreline Long shaft: 688mm. Measured at 687mm - CE 14.7.11, 675mm circlip centreline to centreline
    VR6, 5-stud (early to mid-90s)
    Short shaft: 456mm Long shaft: 688mm

    Golf Mk4
    2 wheel drive (5-stud),
    02K (020-hybrid) gearbox, with 90mm inner CVs
    Short shaft: 460mm, 445mm between the circlip grooves Long shaft: ??mm
    2 wheel drive (5-stud), 02A/J gearbox
    Short shaft: ??mm Long shaft: ??mm
    2 wheel drive (5-stud), 02M gearbox
    Short shaft: ??mm Long shaft: ??mm
    4 wheel drive (5-stud), 02M gearbox
    Front short shaft: ??mm Front long shaft: ??mm Rear shaft (left): ??mm Rear shaft (right): ??mm

    Lupo GTI
    Short shaft: 430.5mm Long shaft: 656mm

    Here's my hypothesis:

    The Bavarian that did the ABF install used 100mm flanges on the 020 gearbox with MK3 drive shafts 433mm-Length/419mm-Cliptoclip and 81mm outer CVs to fit the reduced the track width. The spline ends on the outers are too long for the 81mm CV and as TShirt pointed out theres a lot of spline in/out freeplay to the clip. Add to it my error of installing the thrust washer and graphite sleeve **** about, Im assuming the concave thrust washer is rubbing on the outer CV's cage.

    [​IMG]

    Out of respect to all those that have helped, I will remove the entire shaft and measure everything I can. If I cant get to pulling it down entirely this evening, I'll get it done over the weekend or Easter break.

    A big thanks to all, I shouldn't have let my sons convince me that the MK3 fit, and should have researched all aspects myself. Will post results when they come to hand.

    AND SO IT WAS I REDID THEM AGAIN

    Ok and now for the results on the RIGHT Short shaft... And yes it's my error, but I'm going to hang onto the MK3 drive shaft because if that BAVARIAN comes anywhere near me, I'm going to use it!

    (Measurements taken from inner or outer edges to edges not centers - So +/- 1-2mm)

    [​IMG]

    MK3 4 STUD - SHORT SHAFT
    MK3 Shaft Length = 456mm (23mm too long Chris!!)
    MK3 Shaft Inner = 380mm (From the thrust washer seat to seat)
    MK3 Clip 2 Clip = 441
    MK3 Outer Spline = 24.2mm (including thrustwasher and graphite bush)
    MK3 INNER Spline = ~26.6mm (Including Thrust Washer to leading edge of clip)

    MK2 ABF 1990 + 020 Gearbox - SHORT SHAFT
    MK2 Shaft Length = 433mm
    MK2 Shaft Inner = 356mm (From the thrust washer seat to seat)
    MK2 Clip 2 Clip = 419mm
    MK2 Outer Spline = ~24.2mm (including thrustwasher and graphite bush - same as MK3)
    MK2 Inner Spline = ~ 27.2 (Including Thrust Washer to leading edge of clip)

    CVs
    OUTER 81mm CV inside spline depth ~21.8mm (These were on the car)
    OUTER 81mm CV height = 51.6mm (May be superfluous data)
    OUTER 90mm CV inside spline depth ~25.5mm (These were on the MK3)
    OUTER 90mm CV height = 61mm (May be superfluous data - Chris, do I lose ~10mm? - ~13mm longer )



    So before I finish the job I'm going to check it's overall length, and see if I can fit the hub and get a feel for the length. I'm going to go with the 90mm CV's as recommended... *Time to get greasy.... grumbles something about a Bavarian!*

    ALL GOOD NOW
    It's a beautiful thing, and it is but... Crikey!!! I'd rather wrestle a crocodile!!
    [​IMG]

    (Lower hinge bolts.) I think this was a bad idea, I'll get it sorted with the wheel alignment. (Prpblem Rectified)

    Would I do it again? Yes, but I'd do it differently!
    I'd do the following:

    • Buy better gloves and good hand wash
    • Buy 12 new HEX bolts for inners
    • Have a Dremel ready with lots of cylinder bits.
    • Remove the entire assembly (including hub and spindle)
    • Print out all the reference material you can from ClubGTI Forums
    • Take information and assembly to a professional for a new upgrade/swap.
    • Install and resist the temptation of buying a bigger hammer just to prove to myself, I can do this at home!

    You shoulda seen the mess earlier...
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
  9. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    Electrics, Lights, Ground and Loom

    Electrics, Lights, Ground and Loom
    I'd been collecting as many connectors as I could from the scrappy and setting them aside for this step. The looms had been prodded to death and fortunately as RJ often warns of, the wiring run behind the head can get crunchy. Never use the spiral wrap, it melted all over the exhaust manifold shield, nasty mess. SOS tape and the chinese finger briad stuff seems to work a treat and I havent see any sign of heat issues. I'd wrapped the loom to the throttle body in SOS tape previously, I tore up old linen and wrapped the wired first and it held up a treat. I used eletrical tape over the other wires but first put down a cotton wrap so later if needed the loom can be opened up without the gummy residue electrical tape leaves. So it's all been wiped down with wax and grease remover, Inox plus on the connectors and a fair few connectors were swapped out with better ones. Yes the colours may not be correct, but nothing matches on the engine loom anyway. I also rewired the lighting looms and the lights got brighter, so that was a win! I also recently bought after market bottom lamps, they looked better than the rubbish I had before, but in truth, I think you have to pay the $$$ to get the real deal, the after market connectors are rubbish, I'll just have to refit them myself or just bite the bullet and go to VWH and buy them..

    220 - Sender Earth Connection - Back to ECU and Ground via T68/1 to battery

    F25 - Throttle Valve switch
    T68/33 Earth - Brown/White
    T68/21 - Grey/Green

    G62 - Coolant Temp
    T68/33 Earth - Brown/White
    T68/14 - Blue/Brown

    G69 - Throttle Valve Potentiometer
    T68/33 Earth - Brown/White
    T68/40 Pin 2 - Red/Blue

    G40 - Hall Sender
    T68/33 Brown/White
    T68/44 Blue/Green
    T86/45 Red/Black

    G42 Air Intake Temp
    T68/33 Earth - Brown/Blue
    T68/36 - White/Yellow

    G28 Crank Angle Position Sender
    T68/33 Earth - Brown/Blue
    T68/67 - Green/Black
    T68/68 - Red/Yellow


    221 Engine Earth - In Engine Wiring Harness - Ground via 18 to head

    T28/25
    ISV
    Charcoal filter
    Coolant Storage Via T28/25?
    Speedometer?
    Heater Element (Crankcase Breather)?​

    94 Battery - neg
    Ignition Transformer


    So I have the T28 loom on the bench. It was wrapped as the spiral wrap melted an I wrapped in linen and then silicon self fusing tape which worked a treat.
    View attachment 404

    All cleaned up
    View attachment 405

    This has me concerned, theres a rogue brown/white. Ill check VAG com for errors.
    View attachment 406

    I repaired a few exposed wires
    REmoved the redundant earth to head
    REmoved the earths from coil to head
    I'd also earthd ECU to chassis and ran it to the negative point on chassis just below the battery.


    Snug as a bug in a rug.
    View attachment 407

    I had to make a last minute change as Id spliced the ISV too short... Fixed.:) The Air temp spliced the supply on a black wire with the ISV (Shared supply?)

    My concern now is that the diagram point out a sender earths as grouped and the CPS is one of the group in the other part of the loom. Im hoping the T28 sender connections pick up the CPS on the way.

    Good news is that most all the wiring looked good.. I have a White/Blue and Black rogue pair,. may be A/C so fingers crossed it fires up and behaves.

    Toyotec, I tried to buy from GSF but the system choked when trying to ship to Australia.
    T68/1 ECU​

    CPS Is being trapped by error ECU - Implausible Signal

    In a good but sad way, the ECU reported G28 NO SIGNAL and bit the bullet

    I was measuring and my temps were at 102C, a little high I thought... regardless the CPS packed it in well and good this time, I have the other SEIMENS on the workbench and about to do a heat test with it too. Im gong to supply a 7.4V supply and see if I can get it to fail with a heat gun at 100+ C


    RPM Temperature Voltage Bin. Bits Idle_RPM Coolant_Temp Lambda_Volt Adjust Cond Idle_RPM Engine_Load TB_Angle Opening Value for ISV
    TIME TIME
    C V STAMP C V STAMP % %
    837 102 0.73 0 0.01 837 102 0.71 0 2.94 837 27.3 0 9.4

    Ever hopeful

    Nup... the CPS is fubar.

    This was the fix, so I'll post it twice.

    View attachment 425

    MEYLE BOX, Its not got epoxy filled back, it's encased in graphite/plastics.

    Got my CPS, replaced the ABF coolant temp with white two pin... and now looking at the wiring...

    Can you see the three pins waving in the air like they just don't care... I do!! >> Disintegration!! <<

    These are connected to two sensors on the block, have no clue what they are, but Im certain Im going to find out!
    >> See here for the connectors on the block << There are two and both sensor have connectors that are FUBAR! If anyone can identify these, one seems longer than the other, are they easy to replace?

    The brown connector in the first image is no better, but Ive been harvesting from the MK3's and hope to get lucky.

    There was way too much going on around the power steering reservoir in terms of wiring, so Im in the process of a tidy up there, reset the ground to trans, and all good there.

    >> CPS << the CPS, it's behind the engine mount and I did read up on how to change it.

    More like a sad country western song than poetry in motion... tbc

    Went downstairs again, I'd found some oil cooler hosing and I think I have the right ones so I will refit them, I'd capped off the cooler so I hope it's still sealed. Oil Cooler

    Will wrap them in linen this time, I really should get my hands on some magic tape, it's self adhering silicon to finish but I dont think this is my last visit and will take care of them in the meantime. There's a little wrapped up in the corner of the pic, and there's a lot of stress from the wiring harness around the brake reservoir. So under dash is exposed and hopefully I can pull down some of the excess under the hood and run my eye over the grounds near fuse box while at it. Makes you wonder why the inner male connectors perish before the loom's. Oh well, Luke's helping me out so we'll get it done well, not quickly! It's too crammed with wiring where the fan thermoswitch lives and can't help wondering about the lights and wiring there too. Silly chinese halos.... Need to get some hellas in there again!

    [​IMG]

    Took the bumper off last night and made life a lot easier, CPS good to go and more wiring ...

    As mentioned the loom was pressing down in the brake reservoir, the speedo above the loom and fouling it up. The speedo cable was tucked behind the manifold brackets, so they came off and we re-juggled them into their correct positions and the vac lines needed to be moved around, finally we had access to the loom, wrapped it up and put it above the speedo cable. So with some help from Luke we wrapped it down towards the battery and it not sits higher and then rests into the chassis trough and seems to be a natural position for it. We pulled the loom from under dash and the master cylinder is much happier!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Working toward the battery, the engine looms, lighting, grounds and power were combed into position, juggled powre steering pipes too. The lighting loom now runs behind the batter, the fan relay and fuse were wrapped and given a home plate (that I havent got right yet). The grounds are happier, the loom is pushed back and I have to tidy up and strap the Sub-woofer amp and another heavy gauge cable into an accessory supply run to the battery as well. All the main power feeds for fans, starter, alternator are happily sitting in the gap between the power steering reservoir and the chassis rail. Connections and under dash to do...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Love KillRust Matt Black! Takes a little longer to dry but gives a durable deep finish

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    (Note to self) Connection and termination to complete:

    Lights
    Alternator and Alternatyor ( BLUE WIRE - There is a BLUE wire in the loom, it's unused)
    Starter motor - single pin
    Sub-Woofer
    Thermo Switch
    Throttle connector, needs serious attention

    Deletions to identify

    4 Pin long to (A/C) I think
    1 white connector (not genuine) drivers side lighting loom
    Alternator Blue - Goes no where! Runs along with up with the high current supply to battery
    Alternator brown (ground)

    Im wrecked... Ive made it to the ground terminal, but couldnt get it all done in day. Manifold brackets took their toll on me and the elves stole my hex head. Should have got the message, pressed on and cleaned up and was tough not to finish, thinking all the while to get it done once and avoid backtracking.

    [​IMG]

    Which of the wires plugs into the gearbox ?

    [​IMG]

    ??

    [​IMG]

    Almost there... Still unsure about what to do with 12V to CPS

    Yep, I've been reading up your awesome (FUSEBOX FAQ) electrical connections. Love your work mate!

    I've connected the blue/black to the box but not getting a reverse light.

    Pulled all my fuses, broke a few old ones and spent a few minutes picking out the debris.

    Also checked the CE2 diagram, it's on BLOCK F. Checked the bulbs, so now to get the multimeter out. I assume the switch on the gearbox closes the circuit?

    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775-Fusebox-FAQ&p=1945612&viewfull=1#post1945612

    She's running, no coolant leaks I can see yet, (found another F piece hose from wreckers too) have it up to temp with fans running and sparking like a happy chappy!

    What's your take on the 12v to CPS, can I find a 5V supply?

    The good news is... each time I work on it, my hands get less and less dirty, I'm sure I've lightened the front end by a kilo and used that much hand cleaner as well!

    [​IMG]

    Ok a week on... Im running the CPS with 12V for now, fresh connectors, a lot of love and with a lot of hesitation, I'll say she's running better than ever!!

    Temps... She's temperamental, ain't that the truth!! It would seem adding that extra volume did help and the matrix will add that final amount I hope to calm her down. MFA Oil temps have manage to avoid topping out at 160c, its a good indication the temps are deviating less. Hope to get my hands on a Mk2 Oil temp sender soon.

    Electrical gremlins...
    Ive been sorting ground under dash and trying to put some order to the two looms, plus stereo, plus diags and immobiliser. Does anyone know where I am to mount the immobiliser box?
    Sub-Woofer amp 12V from battery had an open circuit fuse holder it took a few stabs with the multimeter before I worked it out. Bought this clear plastic pimped up giant fuse holder, that just got in the way, next time Ill get something more discrete and cheaper. I had to replace the signal and remote wires and that was straight forward. Also bought a indicator stalk, and found the side connector was skewed and high beams didnt work. Should have checked properly when doing the stalk.

    Interior
    Rear parcel shelf was sagging, used an aluminium strip that tucked under the rear curvature and riveted it in place to support it a little longer, having to make do with the parts I have.
    Any pointers for fixing the under dash card would be appreciated. For years the dash card has tucked into the clutch holding it to the floor and it's time to either cut away the offending section or get it all in place correctly?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
  10. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    KEEP OUT - Health and Safety warning - Mancave under construction CPS & KNOCK

    Oil cooler hose was split and thought it was the thermostat housing, it all needed a revisit anyway, good did come from this exercise.

    I really REALLY dislike working on this part of the car. There are so many pivot bolts, securing bolts and joints that I can never remember and being +10 GMT, couldnt wait until a wise GTI owner pointed out all the redundant work I embarkled on to get to TWO LOUSY Bolts!!
    View attachment 180 View attachment 181 View attachment 182 View attachment 183

    On a positive note, I can change out the Knock sensor!!

    Visit to wreckers and found a haul of goodies.
    [​IMG]

    Was a trying trip to the wreckers, with a little tenacity I wooed lady luck my way and found the bits and pieces I was looking for. There was a modern GTI stacked on the Mlk3 and the large discs and hubs right above my head, was a little distracting... Silly dreams!!

    Flange is 037 121 171A
    Elbow from MK3 is 037 121 619
    Straight through from SEAT is 1LO 121 619

    O-RINGS have swelling but got them on nicely, will try and use the elbow to make easier fitting and get easier clearance around the oil filter

    I'd almost given upon the knock sensors, and then stuck my head in an AUDI and had me a huge smile! There were more modern versions with upgraded connectors but was 3 inches long and too short for the ABF.

    Knock sensors:
    054 905 377 G Blue Longer, approx 600mm
    054 905 377 Green - Shorter Approx 450mm

    Both already show signs of terminals cracking at the connection end, I wont be seating them in the bracket

    Almost done, taking my time.

    Gave myself a breather and took the time to clean the seat on the block properly. The water is hard here and there was a bit of calcium to clean up and then dry to make for a good seal. Installed the knock sensors, checked the elbow would clear the PAS pump bracket and all seems good. Also took a little time cleaning off the bolt holes and threads, this isn't a job Id like to do rushed. Time to put it all back together and cross my fingers.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    How to fill the ABF - Loves Techalloy (sp) and deminieralised water

    Not sure if it's a mind over matter thing but after a run through town this evening, the engine seemed to run smoother with replaced knock sensors. Temps were up in traffic but not alarming. Next on the list of todo is find a mk2 oil temp sender, I've been toying with the idea mike had of using a resistor to calibrate it, sitting at 160c is most annoying. I also tried tweaking the front bumper, its a mess, someone previously welded it together and the whole thing is a sad face. I've used washers to shim it in the past, but it's in the too hard basket trying to mount it alone and I don't own a welder.

    Air locks:
    Having had a really good look at thermostat, I used the return hose to back fill the block, it also filled the reservoir, then used a spare hose to fill the radiator and I think I avoided air locks. Will know when it cools by the level in the reservoir. I also want to flush the system, I'm toying with the idea of using vinegar or CLR, any suggestions for a good flush and Clean method?

    OIL TEMP Calibration

    Since getting the car the OIL temps on the MFA get ridiculously high. Searching the site Im using a Mk3 ABF oil temp sender and the required is a Mk2. So Sirguydo put forward the idea of using a resistor to calibrate it and I pisked up a 25 turn pcb potentiometer and began comparing the clocks and the actual temp on the oil filter/cooler and calibrating. I let it get to temp and took it for a drive to let everything get u to temps and Im now running between 92-110, I don't expect it to be accurate to the degree but its a lot better than looking at 160C. So it's a 50 Ohm resistor, a little heat shrink and two spots of solder and its good enough for me!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    CPS AGAIN!!!
    IMG_4191.jpg
    Having sorted out the looms, replaced knock sensors, CPS and got on top of the Oil and Water temps, you guessed it, it's back, NO SPARK!

    Im going to have to sift through packed house goods and find the VAGCOM USB cable and get diags onto it this time, I have no idea where to start now.

    Its been running SOOOO nicely, better than ever and I was just sitting in traffic, engine temps were fine, doing 4 kph and it started cutting out and then allowed me to start then off and on, intermittent shut down and then later, no spark at all. Ill check earths to start but I dont want to reset CPU before I get into the logs.

    :(

    PROOF
    VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
    Friday, 15 May 2015, 15:17:27.
    Control Module Part Number: 037 906 024 BE
    Component and/or Version: DIGIFANT 3.2 1953
    Software Coding:
    Work Shop Code:
    VCID: 56DF055BA11F
    1 Fault Found:
    00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
    27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

    VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
    Friday, 15 May 2015, 15:20:14.
    Control Module Part Number: 1H0 953 257 B
    Component and/or Version: IMMO VWZ3Z0T1330550 V00
    Software Coding: 09600
    Work Shop Code: WSC 00053
    VCID: 2A2781ABC5E7
    No fault code found.

    BAMMMMM!!!!!!

    Shut down and captured code while connected!

    VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
    Friday, 15 May 2015, 15:24:27.
    Control Module Part Number: 037 906 024 BE
    Component and/or Version: DIGIFANT 3.2 1953
    Software Coding:
    Work Shop Code:
    VCID: 56DF055BA11F
    1 Fault Found:
    00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
    27-00 - Implausible Signal


    Well, that helped a lot!

    Couldn't find any other faults.

    :)

    Talk about avoiding the evidence, but it sorted out a lot of poor wiring
    [​IMG]

    Three years on and its the first time I've checked diags before getting my hands dirty, feels good to trust the systems now. With Nige's 5V supply info, I'm hoping its not the CPS and will take a close look at terminals and wires first.
    [video]W87RwW1RDus[/video]

    While wasting time trying to disprove the CPS fault, even with diags I had to sort out the wiring to ensure it wasn't in the loom, and it wasn't.

    So I have the T28 loom on the bench. It was wrapped as the spiral wrap melted an I wrapped in linen and then silicon self fusing tape which worked a treat.
    [​IMG]

    All cleaned up
    [​IMG]

    This has me concerned, theres a rogue brown/white. Ill check VAG com for errors.
    [​IMG]

    I repaired a few exposed wires
    Removed the redundant earth to head
    Removed the earths from coil to head
    I'd also ground ECU to chassis, to the negative point on chassis just below the battery.


    Snug as a bug in a rug.
    [​IMG]

    I had to make a last minute change as Id spliced the ISV too short... Fixed.:) The Air temp spliced the supply on a black wire with the ISV (Shared supply?)

    My concern now is that the diagram point out a sender earths as grouped and the CPS is one of the group in the other part of the loom. Im hoping the T28 sender connections pick up the CPS on the way.

    Good news is that most all the wiring looked good.. I have a White/Blue and Black rogue pair,. may be A/C so fingers crossed it fires up and behaves.

    Toyotec, I tried to buy from GSF but the system choked when trying to ship to Australia.



    Put this here for good keeping
    F
    1 - red - alarm control unit pin 5, ECU pin 7, park/neutral position switch, starter motor pin 50
    3 - blu - alternator pin D+
    4 - brn - vehicle speed sensor pin 3
    5 - red - ECU pin 7 (16v)
    \- red/grn - ECU pin 32 (8v)
    6 - blk/red - reverse light switch pin 2
    \- blk - Park/Neutal position relay pin 5
    7 - blk blue - reverse light switch pin 1
    8 - brn/blk - lambda probe pin 2
    9 - grn/blk - automatic control unit (rev counter feed)

    G1
    2 - brn/wht - outside air temp sensor
    3 - yel/blu - ECU pin 6 (6cyl, 16v), ECU pin 31 (8v)
    4 - blk - ECU pin 38 (pre-96 6cyl), vehicle speed sensor pin 1, ignition coil pin 3 (4cyl, pre-96 6cyl), ignition coil pin 5 (post-96 6cyl)
    5 - brn/wht - coolant level sender pin 1, earth to engine
    7 - blk/brn - ECU pin 9 (pre-96 6cyl)
    \- blk/wht - ECU pin 9 (4cyl)
    8 - red/wht - lambda probe pin 2 (post-96)
    \- red/yel - lambda heater control relay pin 2 (pre-96 6cyl)
    \- red/blu - lambda heater control relay pin 2 & 4 (pre-96 4cyl)
    9 - yel/blk - ECU pin 5
    10- red/blu - ECU pin 23, cam position sensor pin 3, carbon canister valve pin 2, maf sensor pin 3, lambda heater control relay pin 6, EGR valve, fuel injectors (Pre-96 6cyl)
    \-blk/yel - ECU pin 23 (4cyl), air mass meter pin 3 (8v)
    11- wht/blu - Vehicle speed sensor pin 2
    12- grn/blk - ECU pin 22 (6cyl), ECU pin 19 (8v)
    \- grn/wht - ECU pin 22 (16v)




    Testing my patience.

    A disaster of a journey this evening to pick up the younger son. There have been intermittent shut downs lately, me thinking it were the connections but today the ABF shut down, no spark 4 times over a distance of 15 miles and while I thought jiggling connectors did the trick on the last shut down, we did nothing and after 30 minutes it started again and then RACQ (RAC/AA) suggested he follow me home and just as I was turning into my street, it shut down.

    He strongly pointed at the crank sensor, stating it was likely an issue of heat and degradation of the sensor so I will confirm it once I get my hands on a new one.
    By chance on the first shut down, the home we were parked outside once owned a SEAT, so he pulled out his strobe and we confirmed the NO SPARK state. And wouldnt you know it, he went inside and came out with a COIL PACK too, and that too didnt sort it out. While I was there, it started and then shut down without doing anything and then 20 minutes later started and we headed off, only to shut down again... another 30minutes and it started. As an avid CGTI follower, I had a new ECU relay in the console to, none of which helped. Fuel pump was priming too. I tried reconnecting and jiggling everything, nothing really worked but time sitting with the engine off. The kicker was that when shut down, there was no RPM movement on the tacho, indicative that something wasnt sending signals to the coil. I checked ECI connectors, that seemed to get it started but in hindsight it was co-incidental. So to source a crank sensor tomorrow and get into some soldering of the new connectors as well. Will keep you posted...

    Reference:

    Crank Position Sensor / Crank Angle Position Sensor / CPS = 037 906 433 a

    Courtesy to members:
    Toyotec - CPS -> http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...-part-number&p=2012423&viewfull=1#post2012423
    RubJonny - CE2 Wiring, colours, fuses and relays.. A must have to any ABF owner - http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775-Fusebox-FAQ&p=1945612&viewfull=1#post1945612

    CPS Change:

    Summary of work completed: Big thanks to all that helped!

    • Source new CPS and Coolant Sender from VWSpares, thanks to Dan and Stuart!
    • Refit Oil cooler hosing - deleted due to hose leaks
    • Replace Coolant Sender
    • Remove Chassis mount
    • Replace CKPS - check for sleeve and re-used (all good)
    • Remove intermediate Lighting connectors and re-connect
    • Replace intake connector
    • Replace CKPS connector
    • Replace Thermo Switch and connector
    • Terminate the BLUE WIRE
    • Replace Starter Motor Connector
    • Remove FUSE box and tidy up old MK2 looms
    • Add another ground to ground buss under steering column
    • Tidy Immobiliser and DIAGS port wiring
    • Re-terminate positive battery terminal
    • Re-Run Speedo cable under loom
    • Pull loom down into cabin around and behind brake reservoir
    • Insulate Speedo Cable
    • Insulate Lighting looms
    • Insulate and re-run main loom
    • Temporary fix for Knock sensor connections
    • Destroy sub-woofer signal wiring
    • Re-run Sub woofer power feed
    • Reposition Sub woofer fuse to battery
    • Check Fuses and in car systems
    • Diagnose Failing Reverse light - (Switch on Gearbox not closing circuit - Loom works )
    • Fire up and bring to temp, check coolant leaks and fans (all good)
    • Installed a door card liner - Drivers side


    To Do...

    • Resolve Reverse switch
    • Tidy remaining A/C wiring
    • Tidy Vacuum hoses
    • Make Air Filter bracket
    • Repair pinhole in radiator inlet
    • Insert bolts from bumper plastic to metal frame for licence plate
    • Replace Sub-woofer cable
    • Install door card liners - Remaining 3 doors.
    • Look into rear demister - Remaining 3 doors.
    • Find 5v supply for CPS
    • Dump coolant and refresh
    • RUN DIAGS

    [​IMG]


    MEYLE BOX, Its not got epoxy filled back, it's encased in graphite/plastics.

    Wednesday,03,June,2015,20:49:28
    037 906 024 BE,,DIGIFANT 3.2 1953 ,

    ,Group A:,'001,,,,Group B:,'002,,,,Group C:,'003
    ,,Idle_RPM,Coolant_Temp,Lambda_Volt,Adjust Cond,,Idle_RPM,Inj_Period,Bat_voltage,IAT,,Idle_RP M,Engine_Load,TB_Angle,Opening Value for ISV
    ,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,
    Marker,STAMP,,C, V,,STAMP,, ms, V,C,STAMP,,%,,%
    ,7.37,891,102,0.76,00000000,0.67,864,2.55,13.22,34 ,3.61,864,28.9,0.0,7.8
    ,17.80,864,102,0.72,00000000,11.13,864,2.55,13.03, 34,14.04,891,28.9,0.0,7.4
    ,28.28,891,102,0.76,00000000,21.56,891,2.55,13.31, 34,24.49,864,28.1,0.0,7.4
    ,38.80,891,102,0.73,00000000,32.07,864,2.55,13.50, 35,35.03,891,28.1,0.0,7.4

    purr purr...

    The sensor fit without hassles, this time I didnt run the wire up and around the knock sensors. The sensor lead was quite long too, but Ill try a more direct route away from the block. It felt better quality, as I mentioned the sensor was entirely cased and the lead felt hardier. Test fired and then put the nose back on, I soooo dislike the front lower spoiler, bugger of a thing. Then let come up to temp and took for a little drive, there's an occasional miss, I can attribute to plugs, fuel etc so no big deal.

    Happy the T28 plug had a rewrap and grounds re-terminated. Its been a trying experience with the first ECU giving me grief with no start and two CPS senders. The ISV is hanging again, it settles down after driving, unless Ive missed a calibration... Ill tidy the wires tomorrow and look into why my high beam light on dash isnt working.

    HAPPY DAYS:

    Two weeks on...

    The car is firing beautifully, theres a small miss at low revs during idle, specially when it settles at around 900rpm. I attribute the misses to servicing, needs an oil change, spark plug cleanup and gap and perhaps a check thru the ignition leads as Im dead scared removing them. The ignition is perfect through the rev range and at 1000rpm there are no misses, Ill give the throttle body a calibration and set the gap and clean it as well as the ISV.

    Fuel economy is surprising, where once it would be at 10L per 100km its now down to 7L/100Km so that I attribute to eccnomical driving and good crank signals and replacing the knock sensors.

    My lights are brighter since rewiring the looms and the drop in ambient temperature has had a dramatic effect on engine temp, so RJ is correct in the ABF having a wide band of temps that it operates at. While idling it can go well past the half way dial, almost 2/3 and then drops once we are moving again. The ambient temps havbe dropped uinder 20c now from a usual 30c in the subtropics, the engine loves the cooler for combustion and reducing temps. For now with normal driving outside of a lot of traffic the temp guage roams slowly between 1/3 and 1/2 way.


    The MFA shaft button might need attention, my MFA LCD read out is flickering between the two modes on the slider. I had to jiggle and wiggle it this morning to reset the fuel economy, it's no big deal.

    Oil temps, I've made up a little circuit board to mount the 50 ohm resistor to prevent it breaking off from the oil temp sensor, the resistor legs are quite brittle.

    So Im a happy little vegemite for now, I think leaving a set of tools in the car full time might have something to do with it. Oil cooler hosing is holding up and the next task is brakes and CV maintenance, will get he pros to do the CVs this time!

    Cheers

    h

    Update:

    The Meyle CPS hasnt missed a BEAT and I can highly recommend them as they are completely encased in a graphite housing and not just epoxy back filled.

    She's got a runny nose, small oil leak somewhere but doesnt trouble me a the moment, it's likely the breather as the hose is a bodge job.

    On the road she's still lumpy at idle and I put that down to general maintenance but there are no misses when on throttle.

    Open road 5.6L/100 and City driving under 7L/100. Not sure how accurate the figures are as I manage 600Km per tank on 98 octane

    Temp wise she gets hot in traffic, but nothing over the top and the 50ohm resistor on the oil temps might be a couple of degrees temp too high.

    Performance, well she LOVES WINTER... Where in summer after a few kilometers she reaches temp, in winter, she can drive for 10km before she runs at operating temps with oil at ~96c. Lots of power ion tap, engine loves the cooler air and she's putting a huge smile on my face.

    I havent been game to really open her up as the CV's need attention and if the Golf R Scirocco that was playing with me in a GTI member, please accept my apology for drifting lanes as I didnt know you were in my blind spot and the off camber turn on the damp road had me worried as Im not entirely sure where the grip is at.

    I'd love to get her on a track day to see where she's really at, though there are a couple of hoses that are quite old and I worry a hard run on a track may be a catalyst for downtime. The home is sold and we are in the hunt for rental properties with a shed to allow me to continue with the maintenance.

    Also, the digital odometer and the analog odometer are slightly out, but who cares! The RE002 potenzas are outstanding on the Koni/HR kit and watching copes run around the Nurburgring, there seemed a little understeer where on ours the front seemed more planted and I attribute that to the tyres. We had cheap as NanKangs on it when it arrived and it was horrible to drive in the wet with massive understeer bordering on dangerous. Not sure what Id do to the softset of Potenzas if I lapped around Nurbuirgring, Id assume it would be an expensive exercise!
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
  11. sports racer Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2014
    Likes Received:
    200
    Location:
    Australia
    Let me know if there's anything you need.

    Between my written off MK2 and Seat Cupra spare parts car there's no need for you to get parts shipped by sea from Germany. :thumbup:

    Cheers

    Paul

    PS. My MK2 always started first time but it did have a cough once. I jiggled the wires and it disappeared.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2015
  12. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2006
    Likes Received:
    2,138
    I need to re-read this. You`ve edited it and I`m not sure what I read before now lol

    I`d forgotten about the CV / driveshaft saga. What a pain that was :thumbd:
     
  13. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    Nige/Sportsracer

    I'm trying to consolidate several threads into this one but I ran out of posts to consolidate into, so Ive started a few stubs as posts to get the rest of the threads in here. Due to the 16V nature of most my problems, the MK2 component and the engine caused several redundant threads, I should have listened to Deako early on.

    So I'm about to consolidate the LOOM and electrical tidy and the entire thread needs another edit after CV's, paint, Clarion "stezza" upgrade, organise, group and cull some of the in between jibber jabber.

    I've been working on the interior, and after insulating as much as I can, I'm going back to swap the 2nd resonator for a muffler. Luke just got his licence and doesn't need the cops hounding him over a loud exhaust.

    IMG_4747 (HD).jpg

    The best insulation was the blue foam matting, I'll get around to the stereo install post but I need a few more pics.

    Sweating my proverbial (_!_) off at the moment, summer has hit and it's hot!!!
     
    Nige likes this.
  14. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    OTHER POSTS

    WE TINT WINDOWS
    3M 35% Black tint and clean windows: ) BUT.. Now I need a new CGTI sticker!

    [​IMG]

    Also a booked in for a new clutch, brake rotors and CV's (Boots split - my bad)


    Original lamps and plastic surgery
    It was a long day with many loose ends to tidy. I reverted back to the Original Hella Lamp and it's odd H4 partner, the HALO clones were so cheap I couldn't bare to handle them and the light was rattling. Fortunately I'd picked up a set of lamp mounts from heritage and had to use them to replace the mangled existing ones. I know what I need for when I fit new ones. The lower lamps, well lets just say they fill the holes like the last ones.
    IMG_4650 (HD).jpg

    Bumper
    Yes, the bumper's had more face lifts than Elizabeth Taylor!

    Im using two long bolts through my number plate to laminate the bumper skin to the bumper itself. Yet another part that relives like a phoenix. Coolant hoses seems to have held up several cycles. Wrapped the wiring looms and terminated bosch connectors for the lower lights. (Must get tools for these connectors)... Need to find radiator slide in mount, I lose things... Horn works... Hands really sore... back sore... so little left to do... happy sigh :)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2015
  15. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    BOOOOOOOOOOM - OIL COOLER

    Bugger...

    I enjoyed third gear and a few moments later the temp light started flashing, oil and water temps were fine if not great @ 90c.

    Got home, let it cool and opened coolant reservoir and it was mayonaise. :(

    Checked dip stick, oil was clean, checked under the oil cap, clean too.

    Took front end off, I wanted to get to the oil cooler, assuming it was the cause.
    Removed reservoir and all the hosing as the mayo ran back down the metal pipe (no heater matrix to concern)
    Removed the oil filter and the oil was clean, I was thinking it was the cooler, maybe not.
    Flushed through side and front flange on the block and was hard to tell if it was contaminated, but coolant seemed clean.

    So where ever this mayo came from seems it was high up on the engine...

    So that's a head gasket..?

    What a mess...:(

    Ok, thanks Mushy, I've got to removing the rocker cover and I can go back.

    I'll take your advice and remove the oilcooler and check it completely, while I have the front end off I might as well give it a thorough look at. Have been meaning to also wrap the ends of my hoses with self fusing silicon tape to get a little more milage out of them. Lets hope you are right and it's the oil cooler, I think I can get one from a Mk3...
    [​IMG]

    MUSHY
    Wrong again

    Sadly there's very little mayo in the cooler housing (OR HOSES) to prove it. I'll get a hose and pressure test it but it's all pointing to the head.

    Note: I think Mayo made it to the bottom hose via radiator, but maybe thermostat closed because most of the coolant in the block was clean.
    [​IMG]

    PS: The grunge around cooler ports is just that, grunge, not mayo.


    Its been a long day, sat to tidy up the hoses and think of plan B,C,D and E. Will look into oil cooler tomorrow, didnt have the motivation to get it off. Ill take a good look at cooler tomorrow. If anyone has any tips to offer if it is the head gasket, Im all ears/eyes :)

    [​IMG]

    NOTE: The injection moulded F piece for oil cooler (above).

    Uhmming and Aahing...
    Mike, she was feeling awesome and has been since the CPS, Knock and electrical issues were sorted.

    The real question is whether she's cracked or head gasket has failed. If they crack, do they crack between the valves or surrounding the cylinder?
    Ill get around the back to exhaust manifold and see what I can find. Also found a supplier of VRS kit including valve cover for ABF by ELRING, so will call them Monday.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    MUSHY had it right all along

    I moved on to removing the exhaust manifold and once I removed the heat sheild everything behind the block looked good too. What was a suspected leak was actually spiral wrap that had melted on the sheild. So with Mushy and Mike on my mind I went to have another look at the oil cooler. I left it filled with anti scaling fluid in it overnight, when I looked today the level had dropped and mayo had leaked out. I found a rubber gromet that sealed the air nipple better and pressurised the oil cooler and then we heard a small leak and mayo dribbling out.

    Ok, so what are the chances of me finding a cooler...

    [​IMG]


    The VAG gods were kind to me today, I found a Bora with just the cooler and it was capped with a plastic fitting similar to the oil filter cap on the Polo TDI.

    Found a set of new genuine leads and a solution for my top hose as well. I might go back for the radiator tomorrow!

    Big thanks to Peter, Mushy and Mike. Time to get my hands dirty!

    Engine Bay cleanup - Waiting on Flange

    While I wait for bits and pieces, thought Id get on with using my cute touch up gun my boys bought me.

    [​IMG]

    Finishing off some tidying of the wiring, reclamped the cooler hoses with some fresh Tridon clamps, went Crazy with SOS tape, love that stuff, used it at the ends of hoses to soften the clamps, I met get a break from failing hoses for a while, hopefully...

    Also found the slop in my gear shift but can't for the life of me find the kit I bought years ago. Getting work done while the manifold is off, rerouted the stereo +/- into the harness when I added the sheath. Lots of little things that have been annoying me for ages. It's nice to slow down and take some more time, there's no hurry as Im waiting on the new flange. The old one had better days and Id rather keep it as an emergency spare and I'll get to work sorting out my top hose and also have to clean out the metal heater pipe, it's crusty inside.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Gear Shifter

    I made my own bodge mod with a skate board bush and flipped the cup to make it fit.
    I was concerned with 2nd and 4th knocking on the cup, but it felt good. Hell of a lot better too,
    the bushing there had split and from looking at it, getting the bush on without tearing it
    would be a challenge. I'd bought the kit years ago and the piece has been floating around
    with other odd bits for a while. It's nice now :)
    [​IMG]



    Vacuum lines, it was always messy so I spent an evening pondering on how it should ll work.
    I assumed the ECU and Brake servos would be key and worked out the one way valve and
    still not sure what the sensor inline is so any advice would be appreciated
    [​IMG]



    The three broken sisters, they're mounted onto the plate and they get shucked like oysters there,
    so I let them hang around. While I had the dremel out, I thought I'd give this a go, the connectors
    fit nicely and it ot fits nicely once nack together, soften it off and keep it.
    [​IMG]



    Waiting for parts, progress so far...
    [​IMG]


    Hired the steam cleaner...
    [​IMG]

    I got bored of cleaning matt aluminium.
    IMG_4596 (HD).jpg



    Fresh drink bottles (Plus bees wax!!)
    [​IMG]


    Cleaned the dipstick too!
    [​IMG]



    Top hose and overflow upgrade

    Upgraded the top hose...
    [​IMG]


    Everything seems to fit.
    [​IMG]


    Forgot where this went, worked it out this morning.
    [​IMG]


    Time to refresh the bumper, it has more lives than a cat.
    [​IMG]


    The rear to do... Take the window out, really??
    [​IMG]

    (EDDIE.. I took a look at it, and you're right, so fingers crossed it looks like a good idea!)


    I thought I posted this, I couldnt wait any longer for deutsche parts flange to arrive so I gooped it up and carefully put it on. Manifolds and brackets went on smoothly, I buy new stainless hexes every time I work back there, I think all the bolts are correct length and fresh, the heat shield was loose when I disassembled. (Note the deutsche parts flange is now on my PC waiting for install)

    Quite happy with the top hose change as the one piece old hose stessed me out, I could never find one like it anywhere. So the old one is in the spares box, just in case. It was rough when starting, but settled down after a while. I've been warming up and dumping coolant all morning, using fresh water until all residue of oil escapes. Im not keen to remove the thermostat housing and remove thermostat so Ill push on with several cycles and flushes before I use demineralised water and coolant.

    Now with battery back in, I can get on with the lower lights and bumpers, Im filler priming the bumper and then Ill be onto matt black my fav!!! Will cycle through the cooling systems through the day.

    green.jpg


    IMG_4714 (HD).jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
  16. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    Clarion Stezza and interior.

    Window Trims and other VWH goodies

    Parcel arrived from VWHeritage..."Gee they're good", I on the other hand am not as good a shopper. The radiator and lower metal hose won't work. The metal hose or ABF must be different, no matter and the radiator has the inlet/outlet on the wrong side, so I have to delete the air con pump and I will get to that one day.

    On the up side, the window seals arrived and I managed to fill the gaps. Im pondering over whether the fronts will flip and mirror onto the rears, only have fronts for now, anyhow the windows and doors are much happy for it.
    View attachment 1231

    Got me some other goodies too, a topran heater matrix and SSP lower driving lamps, the genuines were very pricey
    View attachment 1233

    Onto the Stereo Upgrade

    IMG_4715 (HD).jpg
    IMG_4717 (HD).jpg

    I'd beaten the living daylights out of the Clarion splits that were driven from the head. The Sony amp and sub are awesome, I've turned the levels right down as there's as much "doof" as I want so the sub was fine. An old neighbour's son needed to sort out the stereo in his mini, love mini's and he's a good mate to the boys and I'm never one not to have a spare set of speakers, wires and amp somewhere so I swapped out the Clarion splits for UK made vibes, they were twice the price of getting them online, but the boys at autobarn have been good to me and I thought why not. So Joe and the mini got the Clarion Splits (one of the domes fell off.. they glued it back on.) and the Slick 6C's went in. Now the head was struggling to get them working, not too hard but I could sense the speakers wanted more power. So after a good deal on my son's stezza I popped back in and found this...

    IMG_4739 (HD).jpg

    I'd also been tailless interior wise, the silly flimsy plastic was annoying, broken in two and I'd removed it ages ago. The Clarion amp was a beast, it feels heavy and isn't small. I'd immediately thought I'd made the wrong decision and should have installed two single instead of a 4 channel. A week of pacing through several ideas, I made a carpeted base for it to get an idea of where it would fit and concluded, it was time I made a rear card.

    IMG_4718 (HD).jpg
    IMG_4721 (HD).jpg
    IMG_4725 (HD).jpg

    I started looking for solutions to cleanly mount the card onto the rear panel, in the mean time I kept busy clamping then shaping and finishing the card.

    IMG_4733 (HD).jpg

    Armed with connectors and the blue foam matting which I used as the first of the underlay and it worked surprisingly well at dampening sound and it's easy to work with.
    IMG_4737 (HD).jpg

    The BLUE underlay foam was better to use than the felt. Ill likely replace it if the felt gets damp. And it's always a GOOD DAY when you have lots of SOS tape.
    IMG_4747 (HD).jpg

    IMG_4754 (HD).jpg
    IMG_4758 (HD).jpg

    I then bought some plastic backed flooring felt, it's nasty to work with and cut. I used two pieces facing each other and conveniently flipped them so the slef adhesive tape would fix them together.
    IMG_4774 (HD).jpg

    It does shape well
    IMG_4775 (HD).jpg

    Carpet sits better too.
    IMG_4782 (HD).jpg

    I used DEANS plugs to make the interconnects for parcel shelf speakers. The sub woofer connects to the speaker directly and it's a push release, so easy to remove.
    IMG_4783 (HD).jpg

    See the rivet, underneath is an alu strip to help prevent it sagging.
    IMG_4784 (HD).jpg

    Slicks from above, note I moved the split tweeters to the back. The back and forth wiring wasn't going to happen and besides, Im planning on finding a nice pair of 4" for the front.
    IMG_4790 (HD).jpg

    They are a low profile, great for doors too I think.
    IMG_4793 (HD).jpg

    Top and Bottom
    IMG_4794 (HD).jpg

    And then some very expensive bitumen and alu foil. The existing furry matter had decomposed and the epoxy flaked off in a big sheet, so I used the offcuts of the bitmumen sound proofing to seal the exposed metal, the metal was still primed with factory epoxy I think, so no rust.

    IMG_4814 (HD).jpg
    IMG_4815 (HD).jpg
    IMG_4820 (HD).jpg

    NOTE: RJ once asked what the gap in the carpet is for, I would think many moons ago there was foam there that has long since perished and sucked away by vacuums. If you poke a finger under the console segment the foam is there, I think because it's better protected.

    And Im happy with the results, the Clarion booms and the Slicks love it, not sure what the neighbours think and they'll just have to live with it until I get the levels tuned. It does sound awesome!

    h
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2015
  17. Break Forum Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2015
    Likes Received:
    17
    Thats a proper saga, fair play for keeping going, makes me realise how lucky I have been the past year with my ABF converted mk2!
     
  18. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Likes Received:
    473
    Location:
    Sligo, Eire
    bils.

    By fitting that ICE you have just increased your 0-60 time by a few millisecs.
    I chuck out all radios and speakers for the opposite effect.
     
  19. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    Just washed her tonight, managed to get the door rubbers on more snug and I haven't finished the updates and the CVs/HUb bearings might be shot again. Good news is, had another muffler put on and it's back to original note but a whole lot more throughput.

    So I'll put the exhaust post here.

    Ok, so the sun and planets aligned and pointed me in the direction of Rob Bliss, cool business name! He's been there 30 years, called him on the phone and told me to pop in. I asked him if he catered for custom stainless work and by browsing the Jetex systems at VWH, it seemed 2.5" was the way to go. It was full "as you wish" service, the muffler had to be tucked tight and parallel to ground, I asked about the Beveled flanges, he said they were painful and could do much easier with simple flanges, so I didnt want to go against a 30 yr veteran's advice. Did I mention I would like a quiet system.. Anyway, they had the young guy doing it with the mech watching over every move. They seemed to like the car, the apprentice was stoked to get a chance to install a nice system. I told him to take his time and do a nice job worthy of a few beers later, we had our hoist side consultation on how I'd like the tips built and he proceeded with the fabrication. It took him around 5-6 hours.

    Now I did mention that I distinctly told them I care for my neighbours and would like a quiet system, so we upgraded the center muffler/resonator to a longer one one and we set it back to work quieter (apparently)!! The old system was off, it resembled a street post connected to a narrowed hot do into an old crooked genuine MK2 stainless. It's amazing how exhaust systems look skinny when you're looking at 2.5" systems in the showroom. So I told them, all the way to the CAT please.

    Many hours of marching the streets between my sons shop, McDonalds and a EURO Supplier where I found a cheap SKF water pump with housing for the ABF, 50 quid, in the box. Anyway, we had a final chat about the exhaust tips and I gave him latitude to work with, it's a slightly skewed, but I can live with it, he did a good job and there's room for small errors in my world. Two big eyes peering up and out the side, NICE!

    Anyway, as the young fella was wiping things down, the owner and I went to sort out the $$ and I heard this awesome roar, sounded familiar too. The boss and I walked into the shop floor where the lead mech was at the rear of the car with a huge grin on his face, the boss was laughing, I was laughing and the apprentice was like OMG, I thought it had a turbo, at which point Rob says.. "It's ok, when you put the turbo it, it will quieten down.

    DAMN IT"S LOUD... TOO LOUD...OMG IT SOUNDS SO GOOD and THE ENGINE SINGS, still purrs too.

    It has such a wicked note, four motorheads in a muffler garage couldn't help but chuckle even when we were trying to tone it down. Im not sure what my next move will be, it certainly slows you down, everyone knows when you do give it the pedal. I think there's something common to all our reactions. We all say "it's loud", and end the sentence with "but it sounds real good!"

    You can hear the ABF without being choked by a hot dog.

    WE TRIED!!!
    [video=youtube;9VVmifcT9h4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VVmifcT9h4[/video]


    (To get a quiet sport system and slipped into bliss.)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [video=youtube;-_J6GYUiO4E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_J6GYUiO4E[/video]

    So I went into Rob Bliss exhaust today and booked in for another muffler, appointment was at two and when I arrived a little earlier, Rob was already onto it. He upgraded the rear muffler to a larger one and installed another resonator on the way to the kink over the trailing arm. No charges for removal or change, just the cost of additional muffler, so the experience from the service was more than worth it, having had a good listen to the ABF was well worth the extra few coins. It's definitely toned down the volume, the note is much the same and to be honest I wouldn't want it restricted any more. Sure there's still a grumble to it but once I had a taste of tuned exhaust, de-tuning it too much and I'll be miserable. So it's happy days :)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2015
  20. blis Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Likes Received:
    617
    Location:
    New South Wales
    Dave, I could get a few hundredths just avoiding McDonalds and Burger King, lets leave the stezza out of it, she rocks hard, specially to Steve Vai and Vinnie Moore!
     

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