Just to out anorak TSC................ 7 Cylinder radial aircooled aircraft engine. 7 Cylinder GM Supercharged marine engine.
Yep...two in fact. One handled well...mega hard custom springs Bilstein springs and dampers on front The other was mediocre...Koni/Eibach standard sport package. VR6 is a nice sounding beast though.....I enjoyed mine very much in the mid 90's..featured in quite a few mags....went well too! Ian
Looking for ideally either a smashed up 'rado 2.9 or a late 'OBD2' 2.8 as ChrisP says they're the best engine as far the ECU control goes. Will look into it more next week... off to the 'ring this weekend in Claire's R32
get phatty to 24v it, go on, go on , go on go, on etc few more now and loads more potential-must be better mpg for the run to claires too?
G (infinity) suggested that last night, nutter drove from Heathrow to collect the JEs, got here at 11.15pm!!
20,000 views...... you should get a mod to delete all the posts, and just have one at the start saying "Nah, changed me mind."
who'd bother with a 2.0l 16v eh, crazy talk! GVK, sorry to hear about the problems, am not on here much recently but doing my conversion I relied on the posts, advice and experainces of you 16V lads. Hope it all works out Dave
I lad on Vortex has just suffered the same fate, running 1 peice thrust bearing, took his knife edged crank and block out..
Hi Gary, Just checked back in with the forum and read about the bad luck. *Toss the oil cooler -- too many professional teams have repeated this advice to me. It is just not worth the risk and they are well aware of power cleaning processes. *Carefully check your rods. A twisted or bent rod will impart an axial thrust to the crank -- yours failed so quickly that it makes me suspect something like this. *It has been about 23-25 years since I fiddled with a manual VW trans -- it seems possible that if the clutch did not have any free play this would have put a small but steady destructive force transmitted through the engaged throwout bearing (and rod, I think). You seemed to be commenting about all sorts of different sounds and the sound from the throwout bearing in constant use may have been masked. *If your used/modified crank had a thrust bearing surface on it that was rough in any way to start with it could have set a galling process into action. Same way that cam lobes are often wiped out so quickly with re-grinds or mixing up the lifters with unique/matched wear patterns. *Carefully check the interior surface of your cast sump. Cast sumps often have a bumpy boundary layer with weakly attached/covered debris and oxides. This can come off at any time -- that tip came from a factory failure analysis engineer who races. He smooths out the interior of the pans and cleans them very well. *The same engineer pointed out that oil filters with bypass valves allow a certain percentage of unfiltered oil into the galleys whenever the oil pressure exceeds about 18 pounds. So a fresh filter offers no certainty of protection in that case. From way back I remember Rabbit/Golf engines having a reputation for blowing apart oil filters in cold weather so I am guessing the fix might have involved relief valves. The relief valves are also why oil coolers cannot be trusted from failed engines.
To put this thread to bed,once and for all. I finally threw the scrap block and crank on the scrap heap last week and proceeded to smash a big f*ck off hole in the front of teh block with a sledge hammer. Made me feel a little bit better anyway.
Take care of the VR as youll no be able to knock a hole in the block that easy Shame about the 16v after all that effort [:^(]
