I think this is a big factor when choosing what to do when tuning an engine. If you can make power without having to rev it much more than normal then you can keep the bottom end stock and it'll last a lot longer too. That's why I think if I went for cams I wouldn't go too wild, 260's or maybe 268's. While we're on the subject, how much would we be talking for 2.0 bottom end that would be happy all day at 7.5-8k?? So, I presume you'd have to go for 83mm forged pistons, steel rods, lightened + balanced crank and flywheel. Joe
vince does and autotechnik the full house ABF kitcar engines ran 85mm bores and reduced crank stroke IIRC reduces the piston speed a bit
stronger, a forged piece of steel is compounded by a drop forge! whereas a casting is just that, cast in a mould
I remember being told that 7500 with standard bottom end, and a bit more with the rod bolts being done - would make sense to me with the standard limiter being 7200
I don`t like giving mine sustained 7k revs, due to what happened to gary`s old car and others. The problem with the bolts is they stretch as they try and stop the pistons hitting the head, just think of the punishment a 100k road bolt has had!
Thats what I was getting at Keith and as I've killed two *mythical bullet proof* 16v bottom ends, I try to keep as far away from 7k as possible
I didn't think they'd be forged, thanks for the confirmation. Right, so I'll get some ARP rod bolts. Are the head studs especially needed too, though? I can see the dollars piling up again already [:^(] Also, I read on vortex that something needs doing to the rods when you install the ARP bolts...what's the story with that before I search to find the thread!
