Hello all, I have an abf kjetronic for some years, i have been trying to regulate fuelling with an afr gauge (and wur mod), with stock kjetronic hard job to do.... On high rpm i run lean, arround 13 13.5, i tried to solved it fitting a volkswagen motorsport fuel distributor and air metering, i have never able to make it run ok, fuel distributor is not ok, So now i don´t know if try to repair vwm fuel metering (arround 250 euros) or to forget old kjetronic and start with a megasquirt. Firstly problem on using mega on my case is that I didn´t have trigger wheel on my abf cranckshaft (yes i know it was a stupid idea to deleted it) second is that i dindt have inyectors, abf manifold, abf TB and all the other sensors required. What do you advise me to do? thanks a lot!
It's a a bit of work fitting Megasquirt, you need to fit the sensors (coolant temp, inlet air temp etc). I run my 16 KR using the original Hall Sensor Distributer, works fine. If you're ok with wiring it's not that difficult. All I'd say is that I've had a couple of ceramic capacitor failures recently but to be fair the unit is 13+ years old (MS1)..
And on kr how do you take cranckshaft signal from hall sensor? it worth the effort? i have made some swaps on mk2 so i think wires will not be a big problem. On the other hand what kind of megasquirt do you recomend? ms1 or that kind: http://www.piratamotor.com/gestion-de-motor/megasquirt/megasquirt-competición
My WOLF R runs Megasquirt 1. The Dizzy is the input for cracnk sensor. I built and supported a number of Megasquirt VW systems back then so did mileage in that car, to validate durabilty and had no running problems.
So could i run megasquirt without cranckchasft sensor just using the dizzy? would worth the money and effort i mean talking about power improve. Thanks!
I would like to keep my kr intake manifold stock, i think it is possibel changing kr injectors cup to digifant injector cups and abf injectors or g60, problem is what kind of rail fuel can i use? on the other hand kr dizzy or abf dizzy?
Hi all after somedays reading deep on the forum I will answer me myself. My idea is: pb injector cups. abf injectors ( i think must to be enough for fuelling and stock abf engine). 1.8t fuel rail with spacers. kr dizzy. I could fit a trigger wheel on cranckshaft for using secuential injection and dual coils... but as i have seen on toyotec ms abf projects, kr dizzy and basic injection set up must to do the job. I have found an abf dyno plot with ms1 giving 181.5 hp! correct me if i am wrong. So my last question is, which megasquirt do you advise me? i would love to be able to do launch control and cut off, i though on megasquirt ms2, or on a ecu with microsquirt with all components fitted for use it ( i have pasted link some post before). what do you think?. thanks.
MS1 does the job, MS2 has a few nicer features including Idle Stepper Motor control so you could fit an aftermarket idle control if required. MS1 is up to the limit firmware wise for the processor, MS2 has more room to grow. I use theHi Resolution code on MS1 andit runs great, MS2 could do sequential injector and spark as you say but you'd have to faf about fitting a crank sensor for that.
Yes at the end i am open the engine again.. and fitting original trigger whell from abf... I have in mine a ecu based on microsquirt (i think it is same as ms2), i even take a look to speeduino which are quite cheap but i cant find any info about them even rusefi. And on other hand i though to buy a ecumaster standalone, but it is quite expensive and i don´t know if it will worth the money on my case with a stock engine...
Never heard of speeduino, might have a Google!. Got my MS1 back online with a couple of new capacitors and some soldering on Sunday.
Yes i found all answers on forum, that car with 181.5 bhp was an abf stock? ON the other hand, would you recomend me to use secuential injection on abf or normal injection? i don´t know if it will worth the effort
Just normal batch injection. Yes vwsingh's car was an old stock engine. It was very fast and I never seen another since!
Also 13 to 13.5 is NOT 'lean' on 16v as you state in post 1. It is not brilliant to the last drop of power number at WOT but not the end of the world.
Hi, i had openned that engine this weekend, probably it was more lean than 13 on high revs under some conditions, becouse pistons are damaged and head is damaged, for knocking. Now i am building new engine, last one i skimmed bottom for having 1mm squish, now i am not sure if do the same or just skim the head and not the bottom. I even have the ecu speeduine ready for fit it. BR
