After re-installing the oil cooler hoses, I was concerned that I may have problems using used parts and a leak started. I pulled off the front end again and thought it was the main radiator intake hose, after three attempts it seems to be the clip on plastic piece. Wondering what part it is, whether there are other engines/models with compatible parts.... Im about to drain the coolant (again) and take a look... h PS: Quite frustrated!
Did some reading up and some pics. MARK POO... GEE...TEE'D... am I... VERY BAD... Help me Yoda! Breath... Ive read up and found what I need, now to work out how to get to it... Its been a while since havin the alternator bracket off. Off to Search (thanks to matt)... [rant] Which part of "I didn't need this... while..." I'm busy doing this -> http://racing.beachmums.com.au/bardon-renovation/ [/rant]
Health Warning - May cause Temper Tantrums I really REALLY dislike working on this part of the car. There are so many pivot bolts, securing bolts and joints that I can never remember and being +10 GMT, couldnt wait until a wise GTI owner pointed out all the redundant work I embarkled on to get to TWO LOUSY Bolts!! On a positive note, I can change out the Knock sensor!!
Always a fun job! 037121121A - thermostat flange - 10.25+VAT 1H0121687A - seal - 2.27+VAT 1L0121619 - connecting piece - 3.70+VAT The last one may be tricky if its the part thats at fault, its a SEAT only part specific to the Toledo!
Thanks RJ, Im almost certain I can find a similar connector and the one I have looks fine. I am struggling to find a crack and fault thought, I read Toyotec mention somewhere that they warp. With the house up for sale I may clean it all up, put it all back and tidy up and revisit it again when I have more time and space. It should also get a new thermostat as the rubber seal is important too.. It's quite crusty under there isnt it!
well i can see there is no oring on the quick release coupling on the thermostat part, but i assumed you had removed it? and yes the stat flanges can warp so i replace them for piece of mind if its removed for any reason
Visit to my local KMJ wrecker.. Was a trying trip to the wreckers, with a little tenacity I wooed lady luck my way and found the bits and pieces I was looking for. There was a modern GTI stacked on the Mlk3 and the large discs and hubs right above my head, was a little distracting... Silly dreams!! Flange is 037 121 171A Elbow from MK3 is 037 121 619 Straight through from SEAT is 1LO 121 619 O-RINGS have swelling but got them on nicely, will try and use the elbow to make easier fitting and get easier clearance around the oil filter I'd almost given upon the knock sensors, and then stuck my head in an AUDI and had me a huge smile! There were more modern versions with upgraded connectors but was 3 inches long and too short for the ABF. Knock sensors: 054 905 377 G Blue Longer, approx 600mm 054 905 377 Green - Shorter Approx 450mm Both already show signs of terminals cracking at the connection end, I wont be seating them in the bracket
Taking m time... Gave myself a breather and took the time to clean the seat on the block properly. The water is hard here and there was a bit of calcium to clean up and then dry to make for a good seal. Installed the knock sensors, checked the elbow would clear the PAS pump bracket and all seems good. Also took a little time cleaning off the bolt holes and threads, this isn't a job Id like to do rushed. Time to put it all back together and cross my fingers.
Oh well, put it back together and the leak is from the Oil Cooler hose... Waiting for engine to cool down and hopefully I can trim the split off. All said and done, Im glad I sorted out the knock sensors, cleaned up the thermostat seat, gasket and flange and hopefully wont need to revisit it in the near future.
Not sure if it's a mind over matter thing but after a run through town this evening, the engine seemed to run smoother with replaced knock sensors. Temps were up in traffic but not alarming. Next on the list of todo is find a mk2 oil temp sender, I've been toying with the idea mike had of using a resistor to calibrate it, sitting at 160c is most annoying. I also tried tweaking the front bumper, its a mess, someone previously welded it together and the whole thing is a sad face. I've used washers to shim it in the past, but it's in the too hard basket trying to mount it alone and I don't own a welder. Air locks: Having had a really good look at thermostat, I used the return hose to back fill the block, it also filled the reservoir, then used a spare hose to fill the radiator and I think I avoided air locks. Will know when it cools by the level in the reservoir. I also want to flush the system, I'm toying with the idea of using vinegar or CLR, any suggestions for a good flush and Clean method?
Mine's quite alkaline as it is, slippery to touch so Ill do a little research. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2615259 I think the key is to flush and neutralize any of the residual acidity. http://www.clrbrands.com.au/files/MSDS-CLR-CALCIUM-LIME-RUST-REMOVER.pdf
Oil Temp and GTI 8V Mk2 MFA Clocks Since getting the car the OIL temps on the MFA get ridiculously high. Searching the site Im using a Mk3 ABF oil temp sender and the required is a Mk2 So Sirguydo put forward the idea of using a resistor to calibrate it and I pisked up a 25 turn pcb potentiometer and began comparing the clocks and the actual temp on the oil filter/cooler and calibrating. I let it get to temp and took it for a drive to let everything get u to temps and Im now running between 92-110, I don't expect it to be accurate to the degree but its a lot better than looking at 160C. So it's a 50 Ohm resistor, a little heat shrink and two spots of solder and its good enough for me!
Having sorted out the looms, replaced knock sensors, CPS and got on top of the Oil and Water temps, you guessed it, it's back, NO SPARK! Im going to have to sift through packed house goods and find the VAGCOM USB cable and get diags onto it this time, I have no idea where to start now. Its been running SOOOO nicely, better than ever and I was just sitting in traffic, engine temps were fine, doing 4 kph and it started cutting out and then allowed me to start then off and on, intermittent shut down and then later, no spark at all. Ill check earths to start but I dont want to reset CPU before I get into the logs.
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...l-pump-prime&p=2353683&viewfull=1#post2353683 ABF NO SPARK, I've circled the globe last night looking for answers... none were found. Of all the diagnosis, this seems the most credible. So few posts have good conclusions. Yes, CPS is critical so are knock sensors and all electrical connections, common grounds too. I've had a good look at looms to the firewall from the front of engine. A long while back I wrapped the throttle body wiring in linen and silicone tape and will give it a look. So its time to look from the coil back, I cant remember if I checked it or not.
