ABF - MK2 1990 - MagnaFlow Exhaust.

Discussion in '16-valve' started by blis, Apr 20, 2015.

  1. blis Forum Member

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    While I wait for bits and pieces, thought Id get on with using my cute touch up gun my boys bought me.

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  2. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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  3. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Looking good :thumbup:
    Glad it was a relatively simple fix and you got hold of the parts :thumbup:
     
  4. blis Forum Member

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    Mike, you win some, you lose some. Oil cooler hoses frustrate me to no end!
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    Last edited: Sep 23, 2015
  5. blis Forum Member

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    The other side done...

    Finishing off some tidying of the wiring, reclamped the cooler hoses with some fresh Tridon clamps, went Crazy with SOS tape, love that stuff, used it at the ends of hoses to soften the clamps, I met get a break from failing hoses for a while, hopefully...

    Also found the slop in my gear shift but can't for the life of me find the kit I bought years ago. Getting work done while the manifold is off, rerouted the stereo +/- into the harness when I added the sheath. Lots of little things that have been annoying me for ages. It's nice to slow down and take some more time, there's no hurry as Im waiting on the new flange. The old one had better days and Id rather keep it as an emergency spare and I'll get to work sorting out my top hose and also have to clean out the metal heater pipe, it's crusty inside.

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  6. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Now you need a bit of paint or spit and polish on your sub frame ;)
    Looking very nice :clap:
     
  7. blis Forum Member

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    Sub-Frame isnt too bad, those inner arches have been haunting me since we got the car, they were bodged with etch primer and there were horrible stains I couldnt even sand out. So I scuffed it all with metal scotch brite and gave it a quick lick of leftover Alpine white. Just one of many things that have been annoying me, prior to this, every time I set to sort it out, something else rears it's ugly head. Perseverance if anything is all it takes. Its not a top job but it won't hurt the car for doing it, many others would pull out the wire wheel and take it to metal. There was also wiring stress on the loom to the ECU, sorted now, Im still impressed with the durability of the VAG looms but have a connector or two to resolder as the old wires are hard to do. I need to get more flux.

    The rad fan relay is now relocated and the delightful task of tackling the Mayo residue in the radiator is on the cards, Im thinking a kerosene, or head back out to wreckers and see if that radiator has the lower locating pins, it was still in the shroud, the flange on mine has a pinhole and stripped threads, I stupidly use it as a measure of water pressure but know that if I lose pressure, I can boil....

    My hands are sore..

    h
     
  8. blis Forum Member

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    Pics - Vac, shifter, Steam clean and a mess

    I made my own bodge mod with a skate board bush and flipped the cup to make it fit.
    I was concerned with 2nd and 4th knocking on the cup, but it felt good. Hell of a lot better too,
    the bushing there had split and from looking at it, getting the bush on without tearing it
    would be a challenge. I'd bought the kit years ago and the piece has been floating around
    with other odd bits for a while. It's nice now :)
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    Vacuum lines, it was always messy so I spent an evening pondering on how it should ll work.
    I assumed the ECU and Brake servos would be key and worked out the one way valve and
    still not sure what the sensor inline is so any advice would be appreciated
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    The three broken sisters, they're mounted onto the plate and they get shucked like oysters there,
    so I let them hang around. While I had the dremel out, I thought I'd give this a go, the connectors
    fit nicely and it ot fits nicely once nack together, soften it off and keep it.
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    RC Pit cushion for old ppl like me.
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    Gave the rocker cover a clean...
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    Waiting for parts, progress so far...
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    Hired the steam cleaner...
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    The mess I made!
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  9. blis Forum Member

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    I got bored of cleaning matt aluminium.
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    Fresh drink bottles (Plus bees wax!!)
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    Cleaned the dipstick too!
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    Last edited: Sep 27, 2015
  10. blis Forum Member

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    Thanks VWHeritage

    Parcel arrived from VWHeritage..."Gee they're good", I on the other hand am not as good a shopper. The radiator and lower metal hose won't work. The metal hose or ABF must be different, no matter and the radiator has the inlet/outlet on the wrong side, so I have to delete the air con pump and I will get to that one day.

    On the up side, the window seals arrived and I managed to fill the gaps. Im pondering over whether the fronts will flip and mirror onto the rears, only have fronts for now, anyhow the windows and doors are much happy for it.
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    Got me some other goodies too, a topran heater matrix and SSP lower driving lamps, the genuines were very pricey
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  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you're missing the metal bracket which holds the round plug and the 2x knock and crank sensor plugs in place, might be a struggle to get one imported :(

    with the sensor inline with the vac lines not sure what one you mean? If you're on about the electric thing near the header tank I'm pretty sure thats the shut-off valve which controls the recirc flap

    the rubber slot seals are the same front and rear, you just have to cut them down to suit front/rear 3/5 door :)

    or if you mean the metal seal holders I fitted front one to the rear of my driver, again it needed cutting down but it went in fine. the angle was ever so slightly different on the curve but you couldn't really notice. certainly better than the split and rotten seal carrier I took off :lol:
     
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  12. blis Forum Member

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    I managed to tidy up the seals, I think I may need a couple more, I dont think I cut them in correctly either. NOTE: I'll only ever buy front ones from now on.


    John how difficult is to get the correct mounts for a NON AC alternator. I'd love to use the new radiator. NOTE: The reason the AC is there is to get the belt down and around, there's no direct path without it
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2015
  13. blis Forum Member

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    Vacuum Lines feeding from the rear of the ABF inlet manifold only. It branches to the brake servo with two nipples and supplies 2 cabin and 1 engine bay hard plastic line.
    I know the ECU is important, as is brake, so I gave them priority and branched the rest off the second T piece on the return side of the sensor the other side of the one way valve.

    Here's my best shot at explaining it.

    From the rear of intake manifold, two nipples split two vac lines and they go to a sensor near coolant reservoir. I made a T junction on the first inlet nipple and fed the ECU with vacuum straight from the manifold. The other branch continues to the sensor then returns to the second nipple heading to the brake servo. There's a blue/black one way valve, I know this from sucking and blowing into it, Ive oriented in the direction to prevent vacuum loss from brakes.

    I then have a four way that feeds the following...

    There are three vac lines under the hood to feed, two into the cabin one to the front corner near battery. Of the two entering the firewall, I assume one of these might be heater control as my floor flap opens under deceleration but not sure. The other heads off near the dash, so it may be economy or have something to do with central locking.

    So what is the order of connection and what's critical and what's not?
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    Last edited: Sep 28, 2015
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    for the a/c there should be a vacuum reservoir somewhere, the valve you mention I'm pretty sure is for the recirc flap. the other pipes I'm not sure, the mk2 a/c system isnt something I've ever played with! the airbox flaps might possibly be partly vacuum controlled as well? I'm not sure if that valve is supposed to be there in a mk2 a/c setup actually, as I think its all mechanically controlled by the flaps as there is no recirc button on a mk2 factory setup. there is a seperate button on aftermarket/dealer fit stuff though?

    for the a/c delete engien side is easy unbolt the compressor and steady arm, then fit a non-ac mk3 waterpump pulley and suitable belts, thats it. the alt bracket is the same :)

    if you do decide to delte a/c then all the vacuum pipes for the airbox can go into the bin, you can put on a non-ac fan housing which wont have the recirc flap in, then you will onyl have 2 vacuum lines to worry about one from the ecu and the other from the dash for the MFA.
     
  15. Peter Jones Forum Member

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    I've done a lot of AC delete jobs, as John says just swap the water pump pulley for a MK3 VR6 pulley and run a shorter belt.

    10PK1035 or 10PK1033. Suitable belt comes form a new (BMW) Mini.

    [​IMG]

    The VR6 pulley might need a spacer behind it to match the offset of the other pulleys.

    Here's an old thread on the subject from VWWatercooled. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f20/c-p-s-delete-serpentine-belt-thread-19887.html

    There are non AC alternators and brackets but they're extremely rare in Australia.
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Aye the early non-ac setup has a big spring under the alternator and no tensioner wheel, with an 893mm belt. the later non-ac MK3 use the same alternator setup with tensioner pulley as the ac cars, its just the waterpump pulley and 2 belts that differ.

    if non-ac mk3 are rare over there then as above the vr6 waterpump pulley works too :) the 4 cylinder non-ac waterpump pulley is 028121031K, vr6 pulley is 021121031A. not entirely sure what the difference is I assume offset and/or diameter is ever so slightly different

    there are actually 2 non-ac late setup alternator belt lengths depending on the age of your car 975mm or 1038mm (vw specifiy 1033mm):
    http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g3belts.php

    pas non-ac v-belt is 685mm regardless of what setup you have
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2015
  17. blis Forum Member

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    Peter, in that thread there was no PAS. Does the VR6 MK3 pulley support two belts?

    Mine is like this.
    [​IMG]

    If I could find a tensioner to replace the A/C the rad might fit.

    Oh... and mount the V pulley onto the VR6? Or get a shorter V belt and run PAS alone from crank?
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2015
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    for the pas you just need 2x non-pas belts with the mk3 non-a/c wateprump pulley, leavign the pas pump as is.

    so the ribbed belt runs the waterpump and alternator, and the vbelt just runs the pas pump
     
  19. Peter Jones Forum Member

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    Yep, but I suspect you'd need the non-AC water pump pulley rather than the spaced out VR6 one or the offsets wouldn't line up.

    I just use the VR6 ones because they're readily and cheaply available online and I don't run PAS in the MK1s.
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    looking at it the vr6 pulley should work fine with pas, doesnt seem to stick out past the ribbed belt :)

    this is what the late non-ac system looks like with the 4 cyl pulley, to compare to your piccy with the VR6 pulley. obv the pas pump is missing but its the same setup on all mk3 1.8-2.0 regardless if it has ac or not:
    [​IMG]

    heres a not so great one showing it all fitted, theres a fair bit of room between the vbelt and ribbed pulleys
    [​IMG]
     

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