ABF on K-jet - setting up & troubleshooting? Fixed and MOT'd!!!

Discussion in '16-valve' started by Stu, May 4, 2008.

  1. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Cheers Rubjonny - much appreciated. I thought the torque was higher than that to be honest but obviously not.

    Actually, now I think of it - last time I did one I remember thinking that the bolts needed to be tightened to a similar torque to the maximum output of the Mk1 Polo's engine we had at the time :lol:

    Will hopefully get cracking putting this lot back together this afternoon. :thumbup:
     
  2. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Well, after 6 pages, almost 1800 views and 140 replies... it runs properly! At last! [:D]

    I changed the head gasket yesterday, put everything back together, filled up the coolant, checked the oil and carefully cranked it over. It fired up no problems and settled to a very steady, if high (2k rpm) idle. To say I was happy is something of an understatement!

    I let it warm up, bled the cooling system, checked the timing was still at 6 deg btdcs, set the fuel pressure using the WUR allen screw back to 48 psi when hot (it was set too high, presumably from previous tinkering when it was running on two cyl's!).

    Then I set the idle and mixture with the ISV disconnected and breather off, airbox hole blocked up as usual.

    Took it for a small test up the road and immediately it's so much better, torque in every gear, no pinking even with a quick blip of the throttle to nearly 7k rpm - lightened flywheel lets it rev really well too! :thumbup:

    Couple of minor issues to sort today hopefully, any help appreciated on these as always:

    1. Oil buzzer and light still go off when revved over 5k rpm, even though pressure is fine on gauge. Senders and wiring look ok but they are swapped in from the KR, could they be different? I may have the high and low ones the wrong way round perhaps?

    2. Still runs a little hot, over half way on temp gauge at idle usually, though the radiator fan does come on now at about 2/3rds on the gauge. Is this correct? My other car runs a lot cooler but does have a massive radiator! Going to flush and re-bleed cooling system today anyway to clear out some rusty water, that will help I expect.

    3. The expansion tank cap (old style black one) seems to hiss a lot and let out a bit of water when hot. Not sure if this is 'cos there is still a bit of air in there or if the cap is knackered? Perhaps worth a replacement blue one? The tank itself seems ok aside from being yellow / rusty colour as they always are!

    4. Not engine related, but we've fitted 280mm front brakes with G60 calipers, carriers, new braided lines etc. Haven't tried them much and the pads aren't bedded in yet but there does seem to be excessive pedal travel even after bleeding. I notice the master cyl has '20' stamped on the side, is this a 20mm as it's an early 16v, and if so should it have a 22mm to make the pedal travel less with these bigger brakes?

    Thanks all, really feel like progress is being made now and the car is on it's way to completion! :p
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  3. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Stu, change the rad cap mate, it's not holding pressure and could cause it to run a bit warmer.

    Have a look on your other car at the oil senders and wiring, you may have one connected wrongly, are you using a twin pole sender for the gauge?

    Really pleased for you that it's finally sorted.
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1. yellow wire goes to the white sensor, 1.8 bar stamped on it, blue to the black sensor, 0.3bar. Fit the KR ones if you left the abf ones in there, I think at least one of them is different.
    2. Might be due to the 16v rad you're running, prob a bit small for a 2.0 abf. but as long as it stays around the half way mark and the fan keeps it below 3/4 then its ok.
    3. Chuck on another cap
    4. You need the 22mm 16v/G60 master cylinder, that'll fix it :)
     
  5. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    As above really.... I can never remember the wiring colours..lol


    Stu, Iguana used a TDi rad which is pretty much the widest rad you can fit in a mk2, had no cooling issues with that.

    As you're running an oil cooler that will help loads on the move.

    As well as the 16v m/c make sure you bleed the air from the rear brakes, also you need to give the new pads chance to bed in.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  6. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Cheers Gary - yes me too! Wouldn't have got it sorted without all the help from everyone on here though :clap:

    The good news too is that although I've only driven the car around the block so far it feels like it's going to be a bit of a beast, even compared with my other Mk2 which is rather nippy :p


    Thanks Rubjonny - will check out the wiring and senders today, hopefully it's something fairly straightforward. I forget now whether I swapped all senders in from the KR or if some were already in the ABF? I know I swapped the twin pole one over for the pressure gauge and that seems to be working ok. I had a similar thing when putting the 6A in the other Mk2 if I remember correctly.

    I may have another radiator cap knocking around somewhere so will have a look and order a new one anyway in the meantime.

    Thought at much on the braking issue, will order a larger master cyl too. :)


    Yes, this standard 16v radiator does seem small but hopefully up to the job with the external oil cooler and fan over-ride set up for use as required. If not I'll look into larger radiators. I do have a spare one from an Audi which is pretty huge but I think the pipes may be at the wrong end so would be a fiddle to fit it.

    My other Mk2 as you know as A/C and as such a huge radiator right across the front of the car, water temp on that rarely gets to half way even in traffic :lol:

    I haven't looked at the rear brakes yet aside from a quick inspection. I think they are probably MOT-able but will be changing them soon anyway and then renewing fluid, bleeding and setting up properly. Might as well change the master cyl at the same time... does the work never end?!? :p
     
  7. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Right, I've checked the oil pressure sender wiring... it was wrong! [:$]

    I had the black sender in the rear position (nearest the block) with the blue wire on it, and the yellow wire to the twin pole sender in the front position.

    So, I checked my other Mk2 and that has the white sender at the rear with a yellow wire to it, and the blue wire to the twin pole sender in the front position.

    I changed the red car to be the same as the other Mk2 and it's still being silly. Now the oil light flashes all the time and the buzzer comes on above 3k rpm? Could the white sender I swapped in be faulty? It was from the KR engine which I still have tucked in the corner of the garage.

    I'll do a search on which sender does what now but any suggestions appreciated :)
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    right, thing with the dual pole senders is you have several types avaialble, some replace the low sender and some replace the high. Only way to tell is to have it out and check the markings on the spanner flats, it'll have 0.3bar or 1.8bar ish, that tells you if its a low or high warning switch. Once you have figured that out you then fit the other sensor and away you go.
    Worst case you could fit both the black & white sensor along with the dual pole, could be its just not quite right for the way the dash clock warning sensor works. On mine I have the low pressure version and that works just fine. Not sure if perhaps the high pressure version has the wrong pressure rating, perhaps its set too high?
    Also worth checkin the part numbers/markings of the normal sensors you've got in there :)
     
  9. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Forgot to update this yesterday. Rubjonny was correct (of course!) and I was mixed up with my twin pole sender but also had a fault with the spade connector on the yellow wire.

    The twin pole sender I have replaces the white collared original one, not the brown/black one. Once I had it back together properly and the yellow wire secured correctly it worked fine - no more buzzer and flashing light. I tested it cold and hot and all the way to 7k rpm... just in case :p
     
  10. gti-8v Forum Member

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    Congrats on getting it running mate!

    Going to start up my k-jet with 2E bottom end for the 1st time tmrw after seizing my 1800 bottom end.
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    awesomes, I recently joint the 7k club, great aint it [8D]
     
  12. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Taking the car for it's MOT tomorrow - fingers crossed! :p

    I'm hoping to check and set the mixture (CO) on the gas analyser at the MOT station whilst there. Does it need to be done with the crank case breather removed and the air box hole blocked as I've been doing it at home or won't it matter on a proper gas analyser?

    Got my long 3mm allen key in the car ready but just want to make sure so as not to take up too much time on the ramp.
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    needs to be done in the same way rally, stops crank case fumes contaminating the mixture.
     
  14. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Passed it's MOT this afternoon and running very well... it's pretty nippy by all accounts! [}:)]

    [​IMG]


    Thanks for the all the help everyone, much appreciated - hopefully can finish the car off now and start enjoying it! :thumbup:
     
  15. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    looks like you've even gave it a clean.
     
  16. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Indeed - I thought it deserved a quick wash now it's started to work better! :p
     
  17. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Forgot to say, regarding the cooling system. I replaced the expansion tank cap with a new blue one from GSF, that's fine and doesn't hiss anymore but there is a small hiss from the level sender in the tank like pressure is escaping through there? Any ideas?

    The level sender appears to be removable on these older type expansion tanks, could I take it out and put some PTFE tape around then re-fit perhaps?

    The car runs at just over half on the temp gauge in normal use, a little higher in traffic but not much and the oil temp stays at around 80 C even when driving, er... 'enthusiastically'... probably due to the external oil cooler so I'm happy with that. :)
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah the level sensor does come out, worth a try sealing it but you'll prob end up having to replace it!
     
  19. prof Forum Addict

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    looking good stu, nice car that
     
  20. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Thanks, will have a go and if not add a new tank and sender to the ever growing list of new parts on the car! :p


    Prof - cheers! Have a look here for the full bulld thread if you're interested :)

    http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152792
     

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