ABF swap into a 1990 Jetta TX

Discussion in '16-valve' started by juli0s, Jul 30, 2009.

  1. juli0s Forum Member

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    Hi all,

    I've been working on my Jetta ABF conversion for a few months now. Things are going well so far. I'm just about to start on the wiring and so i'm going to need some help!

    some back ground first;

    Donor car : 1990 Jetta Tx. 1600 carburettor model. Manual

    The original engine and gearbox have been removed and binned.

    I've installed a 2.0 16v ABF engine, along with with an 02A gearbox from a TDI. The cable change gear shifter has also been installed.

    I'm sticking with the manual steering rack so the power steering pump has been binned.

    No air con.

    The engine is sitting on new G60 mounts. Its nice and firmly seated and moves very little when grappled. I have the original exhaust header feeding into a decat pipe and then standard Jetta 16v exhaust.

    (one minor issue is that the bonnet wont shut - it fouls the throttle body - not too concerned about this at the moment though....)

    To cut to the chase, I've just purchased a wiring loom, ECU, immobiliser unit and key from ebay. (The original engine came without this stuff)

    The loom is pretty massive and seems to inlcude lots of stuff not related to the engine.

    Basically i want to strip it back to the bare essentials, just enough to have the engine running properly.

    I suppose what i need is a detailed wiring diagram and perhaps any other useful advice anyone can offer.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    cheers
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2010
  2. mk1tt16v Forum Member

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  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  4. juli0s Forum Member

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    excellent. Thank you.

    Looks like i'll need to do some homework before getting stuck in......
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    tip for you, as you unwrap the loom put a bit of tape every foot or so, to retain the looms shape. memories of being surrounded by spaghetti are flooding back to me :lol:
     
  6. juli0s Forum Member

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    Hi all,

    a bit of an update and some more questions..

    I've spent the last month or so reading the wiring digrams, FAQs and all the other very useful info you lot directed me to.

    I went through and labelled up all but a few of the ECU pins. Then I went back to the fuesbox end and stripped out all the lighting and wiper motor wires etc.

    I took your advice and used cable ties to retain the shape of the loom. I'm now at the stage of re-casing the loom in black cable tidy.

    This is how it currently looks, not quite finished yet;

    [​IMG]

    ...I realised I was missing the section of loom which links the injectors and other sensors to the main multiplug. Luckily i found someone breaking an ABF on ebay, and hey presto;

    [​IMG]

    its covered in old oil and dirt - needs a good clean!

    After all that, here is what i stripped out;



    and here is all the stuff I've stripped out... quite a lot!

    [​IMG]

    Having done all this i've got some more questions;

    1) A few wires at the fuse box end have been torn from their plugs, and i'm not sure what they are at this stage. The first is connected to ECU pin 35 - none of the guidance i've looked at tells me what pin 35 is ?

    The other is a fairly thick red wire - not sure what this is connected to yet, will find out and post an update in a bit.

    2) I see all the brown earths bundle up and feed into one point - where does this connect to the chassis?

    3) There is a very thick red wire coming from the fuse box with a ring connector on the end, am I right in thinking this goes directly to the battery?

    4) The ECU has an immobilser. I have the immob box and key. I'm not really sure how to install all this stuff. A few years back someone mentioned to me the box could be stashed behind the dash with the key taped to it to ensure it was permanently activated?

    Is there any detailed guidance on this?

    5) The jetta was a 1.6 TX carburettor model, therefore it doesn't currently have the correct fuel pump and associated bits for fuel injection. Can anyone point me toward some info on how to convert the tank, lines & wiring etc to fuel injection friendly?

    cheers!:thumbup:
     
  7. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Recent post approved above
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1) speed sensor output, you will need to splice this to the speed sensor output from the MK2 clocks, the easiest way to do this is to pull the yellow/white wire from the radioo plug and run it to this wire :thumbup:

    2) probably the battery -ve if its in the engien bay, if its behind the fusebox there is a stud on the inside of the A pillar

    3) Battery live, you dont need this as this wire is contained within the headlight loom on a MK2

    4) http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3immobilisor.pdf

    5) 2 ways of doing it:
    1. Add a MK2 GTI main & lift pump, plus under car fuel lines. MK2 digi one is the easiest, the ABF feed pipes will push right on. K-jet also works but you need to get barbed fittings to go on the threaded ends, these can be hacked out of the MK2 metering head feed & return lines :thumbup:
    2. Fit MK3 Golf fuel tank & lines, plus a fuel pump from a 2.0 GTI or VR6
     
  9. garnetteyes Forum Member

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    The other thick red wire could be the Z1 plug which runs from the injector rail, I missed this on mine first time round.
     
  10. juli0s Forum Member

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    thanks guys,

    Just to confirm - is the jetta fuel tank the same as the golf?

    does a Mk3 tank need any mods to make it fit?

    many thanks
     
  11. garnetteyes Forum Member

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    mk3 tank is a straight fit, should be a pretty easy job if you can get the straps on
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    golf/jetta tanks are the same aye. if you use a MK3 tank you'll want to block off the lines to the evap canister, swap bits over from the old fuel tank till its the same, and block off any extra holes :)
     
  13. juli0s Forum Member

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    Hi all ,

    A bit of an udate

    The engine harness is in, and connected to the main loom via the multi plug. I have labelled up the majority of the connectors, but there are one or two I was unable to trace, so these are still unattached rather than list them one by one...

    1)...does anyone have some detailed photos of an ABF engine bay so I can look at the connections?

    Im not sure of the best way to route the main loom through the bulkhead. Currently i've put it through a large grommet which is situated on the passenger side, just above the gear box....

    2)..is this correct?

    3) Also, as the car was a carb model it had no ECU, so i'm not entirely sure where it should sit in the scuttle panel?

    Some other miscellaneous questions......

    4) Can I use the existing ignition system? ie ignition amplifier & coil? (Obviously the ABF has its own dizzy, but can I connect it straight to the old coil and expect it to work?)

    5) I've fitted the cable change 02a box and shifter, but I have no means of operating the clutch. I know some people use a Seat hydraulic to cable conversion , but am i better off changing my servo to run a hydraulic clutch? any thoughts would be appreciated...

    6) I've rigged the abf up to the old radiator - is this ok ?

    ....i'll post some more pics shortly

    cheers :)

    *
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1) pic up what you arnt sure about :)
    2) up to you how you route it, I ran mine thru the factory engine loom grommet behind the brake servo
    3) on the mk3 iirc its right in the middle of the scuttle, on the mk2 its on the driver side of the scuttle. abf ecu wont fit in the mk2 ecu cage though, need to modify it. put ecu wherever it fits comfortably, as long as its not in the way of things like the wiper linkage its all good.
    4) you can use the MK2 coil, tci & loom. This is is the way I do it as it will supply the correct rev counter signal to the MK2 fusebox. what you do is chop the mk3 coil plug off, and splice the green/red wire to pin 6 on the MK2 TCI unit. the MK2 dizzy plug needs to be chopped off as well, 2 of the wires can be taken out completly, the 3rd wire is the one you splice to the MK3 coil plug red/green wire. You can use MK3 coil if you open it and add a rev counter wire to the -ve pin inside though, but MK3 coils are weak anyway.
    5) personal choice this one, fitting a hydro pedal box isnt an easy job. you need to chop a hole and hammer the bulkhead flat for a start. cable conversion is bolt on, but doesnt feel as nice
    6) ideally you want a bigger rad, the 1.6 item is a bit small, assuming 1.6 jetta used same rad as 1.6 golf. The 1.8 8v carb/gti rad and shroud is what you want, its a bit longer. I've used this rad with success on 4 abf conversions so far. You'll need the top & bottom hoses to go with it as well.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2010
  15. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    1.6 rad would be fine. This is used on most of our boosted appications many ABF applications. Many of our vehicles live on the 4-7K rpm side of life with no issues with overheating.
     
  16. juli0s Forum Member

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    thanks guys,

    some more photos;

    here is how everything looks at present;
    [​IMG]

    this is where i've routed the main loom through the bulk head - ( looked for a grommet near the brake servo but i couldn't see one..
    [​IMG]

    ...and here's where it coes out in the passenger footwell;
    [​IMG]

    ...the decat pipe & rear box
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    i picked this lambda probe up cheap at the scrappy - not sure what car it came from, does it look like it'll fit?
    [​IMG]

    some of the various plugs i'm not sure where to connect - i've labelled some as to where in the fuse box they emerge, but i'm still not certain where they go;
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    ......... and if anyone fancies this 100k 1.6 short engine, you're welcome to it if you can collect!
    [​IMG]

    cheers:thumbup:
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah the grommets are hidden behind the servo, you cant get to them without pulling it off the firewall first!

    1. no thats the wrong lambda plug, it might work but you're better off buying a new one. you want a bosch universal model LS03. You'll still need to find the right shape plug to fit to it tho, pretty much any VAG model from 96-98 should have what you need

    2. lambda sensor

    3. coolant level sensor

    4. 3 towards the top are knock sensor 1 & 2 and the crank sensor hanging just below. one right down the bottom looks to be the speedo sensor

    5. yellow one isn't anything to do with the engine, white one is the isv. simgle pin one is the rad fan after-run wire, single pin sensor on the inlet manifold, dont need it.

    6. blue wire is for alternator, thick red/black is for the starter. the other one, does it have a red/black and a blue/black wire? if so thats the reverse switch

    7. no its alright I'll let you keep it :lol:
     
  18. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    I've got a lambda sensor that works only a few months old. i replaced it when trying to fault find running probs. Taken off my abf . Can even supply the bracket that mount it to the engine mount if you need it.
     
  19. juli0s Forum Member

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    how much would you want for it?

    ...on another note - anyone have the hydro - cable clutch conversion we chatted about earlier?
     
  20. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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