ABF swap into a 1990 Jetta TX

Discussion in '16-valve' started by juli0s, Jul 30, 2009.

  1. juli0s Forum Member

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    ....ok clutch cable is on.

    Got the wife to put the straps on while i gave it a yank ;)
    ...then it went in the car no probs:thumbup:
     
  2. lucas262478 New Member

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    hi guys i have to say a big thank you for the info in the thread i have been using it as a guide while doing my abf conversion connected the battery this morning turned the key pumps primed and she fired!! nearly wet myself
    lot to do yet bleed clutch, sort power steering and fit rad it seems to be to far to the drivers side now with abf pipes what would you recomend?
    cheers
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    use MK2 rad pipes, or get a longer rad :)
     
  4. lucas262478 New Member

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    ta obvious when u sit back and think blinded by succes!
     
  5. juli0s Forum Member

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    well done lucas!

    Glad you found it useful - plus its re-assuring you got yours to fire, i haven't reached that stage yet!!
     
  6. juli0s Forum Member

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    Hi all,

    I've been working on the fuel hoses this week - question is i'm not sure the hose I got from GSF is suitable for injection, it was described as 'general use' on the website and came up under a MK3 golf search...

    Its the braided type and doesn;t seem to have the internal stitching you often see on coolant hoses.

    I'm not sure of the pressure rating, - does anyone know what fuel pressure the ABF runs at?

    I don't want any leaks, for obvious reasons!
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    mk3 pump is rated to 3bar, id not risk those hoses get on the bay of e. or down scrappy and pillage some off mk3 8v/16v/vr6. I have stock mk3 hoses on mine and they fit nicely
     
  8. juli0s Forum Member

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    just pulled the fuel tank and found a bit of a problem.

    At the top of the filler neck, behind the filler cap where the tank bults up into the body, the two mounts are totally rusted through. The mounts pulled straight out with the tank.

    Not sure if this will be an MOT failure as the rust is quite close the o/s/r suspension mount.....
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    it should be a failure in theory, but if they dont spot it you'll be ok :lol:

    are you left with holes inthe bodywork then, or have the studs just been ripped off? should be pretty easy to repair as its just a bit of flat plate and the tank is out already. weld some bolts on to em in the right spot and bobs ya uncle
     
  10. juli0s Forum Member

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    Yep i'm left with two 50p size holes in the body work. I've got a mate who welds - might give him call ;)
     
  11. juli0s Forum Member

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    Hi all,

    Got a question on the servo vacuum hose that connects to the back of the inlet manifold.

    As you know the car used to be a 1600 carb, hence the hose is not really the right shape or length for the 16v inlet manifold - I've forced it on buts its buckled and warped.

    Any ideas on how to get around this?

    Don't really want to use rubber tubing as it might collapse under vaccuum...
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    change it for a MK2 16v is the best way chap, otherwise its a case of chopping it up and finding rubber pipe work till it fits
     
  13. juli0s Forum Member

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    ...ok so i've just got hold of a MK3 tank and pump. I also pulled the fuel tank to fuse box loom off a cabriolet at the scrappy. Once this is lot is fitted I wont need much more before I see if it starts - only taken 4 years!

    couple of questions -


    1) Regarding the air inlet temp sensor - am I correct in thinking this is the one that plugs into the side of the standard airbox? is this it?
    [​IMG]

    2) The mk3 fuel tank has a slight issue - the earth strap that connects the filler neck to the body has corroded and broken off at the filler neck. I'm not really sure what this is for but I suspect its something to do with preventing sparks at the filler neck? Is it dangerous not to have it?
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1) no that one is for the mfa, the wire colours are red/white yes? the inlet air temp sensor is completly different in design
    2) you'll probably be ok without it, you might have luck soldering it back on?
     
  15. jessecgti New Member

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    that thing you hold in your rubbery hand is the external air temperature sensor
    and I thought the exact same thing- that it was the inlet temp sensor on my conversion!

    the IAT sensor is black, mostly cylindrical in shape and has a little hollow tip at the air side
     
  16. juli0s Forum Member

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    ..thanks guys -its all sorted now.

    The wiring for the inlet air temp sensor had fallen down the back of the engine and I'd forgotton about it. Its all set up with the correct sensors now.

    on a separate note;

    ....does anyone have the part numbers for the 2 knock sensors and crank sensor?

    I've picked up various sensors from VAG cars at the scrappy but none seem to be the correct fitment.

    Also, can anyone help me find where the second knock sensor is located?
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    crank sensor just buy new, GSF sell one

    knock sensors from most VAG 1.8-2.0 models up to mid to late 90s will be fine, just wire lengths that differ
     
  18. BRI

    bri Forum Member

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    what airbox was used in this mk2? or which one works/fits best ?
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2010
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    SEAT ABF, you can use MK2 Diesel one but have to find somewhere to put the inlet air temp sensor, on a mates MK2 abf I stuffed it in the hole on the front of the airbox untill he got a SEAT airbox like this one
     
  20. BRI

    bri Forum Member

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    ok cheers, ibiza/ toledo abf i presume? do you mean air flow meter though not air temp?
     

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