Hello, I'm new to the forum. I'm sure this has been posted before, so if someone could point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated. I have a 96' Jetta that will be ditching its ABA for an ABF. I'm nearly done the build and am looking for wiring diagrams and info. I have the ABF ECU, and wiring up to and including the fuse block ( plus more wiring that goes from the fuse block to what I assume was other components of the car it was torn out of). Hope this info helps, links and info would be appreciated
heres one on the forum: http://clubgti.com/showthread.php?283287-VW-ABF-Digifant-3-*-Current-Flow-diagram or alternatively if you want it in PDF format its in my signature link, g3abfecu.pdf
Welcome to Club GTI. You are from North America? Wiring diagram for ABF engines, I have shared for all as per the link by John. Any questions please ask.
Thanks for the links! I am in North America, more specifically Canada. I'll look over these diagrams over the next couple of weeks. The only question I have at the moment is, what are the differences between the ABF and ABA fuse block? Being as they are both the same generation, is there going to be some level of interchangeability? I'm not the greatest at electrical; I understand the basics, but I'll be getting a lot of help from my electrician friend on this front.
Hello, Eires, I'm not sure if it's the case for Canada & Usa-land, but in the u.k there was no apparent variation in the fuse/relay box itself during the run. The box also appeared in other contemporaneous VAG models, such as Polo, and the Spanish Seat Ibiza. If you have an undamaged wiring harness between the engine Ecu and the fusebox, then I think you'll be all set. AISI, the fusebox is used as a central node for most of the electrics, with different harnesses plugged in for different areas. F'r example, wiring for the rear body uses sockets K, L & M, with the harness actually fitted selected to suit body type (saloon/hatch/'variant' estate) and fuel used (diesels don't have an in-tank fuel pump), while the steering column and ignition switch are connected to H1, H2 & J. Engine and front body use A through F, with one outlier being the front wiper (S). P & Q are for the fascia, not including the instrument cluster; I suspect these could be the additional wiring you've got from the donor, as the wiring for the o.e. immobiliser is in this section. One snag you may encounter depends on the age of the vehicle the engine harness came from - until late 94/early 95 the uk's r/h steering production had their engine harness separate from the other wiring heading into the engine compartment, such as front lights, wiper, washer pump, etc. After this point there was a combined harness for most engine compartment items, though automatic transmission and Abs wiring remained additional throughout. The problem with crossing this changeover divide is the hole(s) provided in the bulkhead panel - two smaller ones as against one large.
Hi Dougie, Thanks for the information. Knowing VW, I imagine the fuse box stayed the same here in North America as well. What you said made a lot of sense and cleared up some worries I had. It makes sense that they would have a general fuse box that is modular in design in that you can plug different things in for different applications. I believe I have a late model wiring harness/ECU, but then again, I was able to separate the engine harness from the bulk of the other connectors while only needing to cut one ground. I'd assume the immobilizer wiring is in that harness. I did buy an immobilizer delete chip from a company in the States who specialize in ABF and 16v motors so hopefully that will eliminate that problem.
yes the american market has the same fusebox as the euro market for the mk3 golf, so the only wiring you need to worry about is forward of the bulkhead for the engine. if the euro abf loom is the same era as the car you have it will just swap straight in and work engine side, only potential problem is on the headlight side if both cars are late ones. though I would assume the difference is just down to the slam panel section which unplugs, but have a very good look either side to make sure wire colours on the pins line up you shouldn't need to cut anything to split an engine loom from the main body section, so it might have been fiddled with in the past. unless you mean you split the headlight section from the ecu section, if so yes you will need to cut at least 2 earths for the ecu and coilpack from the battery earth. as for the immobiliser if you have one in the car already just plug the qabf loom in and use vagcom to pair the ecu and immobiliser box together, simples! if not you can grab a matched chip and box from any later mk3 golf as well as the loom job done. or bypass if you prefer, your call
I have seen USDM vehicles and I can confirm there is no difference on the later Central Electric architecture. The current flow diagrams for your vehicle are covered in the US Chilton publications and in the Bentley manual for the MK3. Use that baseline to integrate the EU ABF engine electrics, which I have shared in the "ABF Digifant 3* current flow" post on here.
Have another quick wiring question. This one pertains to the placement of the ABF oil pressure switches. When I first got the engine, the previous owner had the black (the new one pictured is blue) on the top location of the oil filter adapter, and the white one on the side. From what I could tell in the PDF rebuild manual I have, white is supposed to be on top and blue/black on the side. Does it really matter which pressure switch goes where? i know one is a low pressure switch while the other is a high pressure switch. I have included a link to my image below. https://drive.google.com/file/d/14Owcq-wjgTAK6J4yxGiO4-kBHUFk0NWO/view?usp=sharing
The oil pressure of the engine will rise and fall based on the clearance of the engine and the durability of the oil pump. The switches will simply pick up this rise and fall. On a MK2 8v, the blue or black is actually further away from the oil pump at the head. On a 16v ABF engine, all are on the filter housing close to the pump so placement is not as critical with regard to the dynamic oil warning system in the instrument cluster.
Sorry for the late reply. Okay that makes sense; so basically the orientation of the oil pressure switches on the ABF will not affect their readings? On the 8v that is currently in my car (ABA motor), the black/blue is on the head like the Mk2 8v engines.
Got a question pertaining to the oil pressure switch wiring. On the abfecu wiring diagram posted by rubjonny, the oil pressure switch connectors are labeled as F1 and F22. They have an Astrix beside them saying to refer to the workshop manual for switch values. I do not have the workshop manual and am wondering which connector goes to which switch.
So I have finally gotten around to putting the engine in my car after removing the old one and fixing/rust proofing the panels in the engine bay. I have my engine harness all repaired and mapped as well, but am stumped on what one connector is for (picture included in link). It is a spade connector with a single black and brown wire. On the wiring diagrams I counted 21 pins on the engine harness, but mine has 22. I'm guessing this random spade connector is the extra one. Does anyone know what this connector is? Image link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lnRm4KZCycvZEQss3CJAxB5wkyQt-Jl6/view?usp=sharing
that wire is for the rad fan after-run thermoswitch, its only fitted to later models and connects to the fan control module. The thermoswitch is screwed into the threaded hole in the inlet manifold between runners 2 and 3, you can bin this off if you like mine has never had it hooked up.
Nearly done all the wiring on my engine swap. I had a shop splice the ABA and ABF harnesses together to fit my left hand drive car. Basically they took anything ECU related off of the ABF and wired it into the existing harness that came from my Jetta. There is one wire that we could not figure out a location for. Neither the shop nor myself are sure if it even needs to be used as the fan is controlled a bit differently in the ABA harness. Anyways, does anyone know the function of this wire? I know it is related to the ABF fan system but that's about it.
Yeah it is a green/grey wire. It looks like it ran to the ECU yes. Cannot be 100% sure as it was a shop that did the harness, but its length and location would indicate that. If I'm running the air con triggers from the original harness, will I need this wire?
ok yep sounds like it to me. If so it will be tapped into the wire back to ecu pin 39, and originally it would have gone to the fan control module 10 pin plug pin 8. this feed is tapped to the 'ac is ok and switched on' side of the ac wiring if that makes sense so after all the ac sensors
Yeah that makes sense. I'll check pin 39 to see if anything is there. The shop completely re-pinned the ECU to match up with the new hybrid harness so they may have ran the AC trigger slightly different. Thanks for the info John!
